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1999 30th Anniversary Legacy Outback DOHC 2.5L 4EAT, 2008 Impreza WRX 2.5L 5MT, 2008 Impreza Wagon 2.5L 4EAT
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Slide hammer usually just pulls the wheel hub out of the bearing if it's stuck in that bad
 

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17 MX-5 RF, 10 Outback 3.6R
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251 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Thanks everyone for their input. i am going to try again this morning, armed with a slide hammer, new sledge hammer, flat air hammer bit, and will put a jack under the knuckle while hammering (thanks for that suggestion). We shall see. I need to get this done soon as they are forecasting snow on Friday and I will be screwed if I can't get the OB back on the road. Eeek!
 

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2014 OBW Premium (Ice Silver Metalic)
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I have done 3 bearings on a 2007 Legacy (same scenario.) I had a sacrificial brake rotor I bolted to the hub backward and beat on it with a sledge. After watching the video I may start looking for a 2" chunk of square tubing and see if I can make a hub shocker for less than $100. I'll be following the discussion. Thanks for the info, folks
 

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I have done 3 bearings on a 2007 Legacy (same scenario.) I had a sacrificial brake rotor I bolted to the hub backward and beat on it with a sledge. After watching the video I may start looking for a 2" chunk of square tubing and see if I can make a hub shocker for less than $100. I'll be following the discussion. Thanks for the info, folks
keep us posted on that hub Shocker, I know HD sells the square tubing and a flat plate bolted to it probably would work
 

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2014 OBW Premium (Ice Silver Metalic)
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keep us posted on that hub Shocker, I know HD sells the square tubing and a flat plate bolted to it probably would work
My current plan is to just weld it to an old brake rotor. I may have a chunk of steel in my junkpi.... er inventory
 

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17 MX-5 RF, 10 Outback 3.6R
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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
quick update for those following my misery... lol

Some good news, some bad. So after days of trying to get the wheel bearing off of the knuckle, I gave up and removed the whole knuckle. Nothing I had would touch the bearing. Fortunately, removing the knuckle was actually easier than expected. The pinch bold ended coming out pretty easily with a few forward then reverse spins with my cordless impact. I used the air chisel to drive the ball bearing up and out of the knuckle. The lateral link that I thought would give me a ton of trouble actually unbolted with ease. So, all in all getting the knuckle out wasn't bad.

By this time it was late on Saturday and didn't know of a place with a press that was open, so I set about trying to hit the bearing out of the knuckle, with very low expectations. Since the brake dust shield was still sandwiched between the two, I didn't know how to position the knuckle where I could hammer out the bearing and not bend the shield. Figuring I had nothing to lose at this point, I set the assembly up on a few bricks, with the bearing studs facing down, and whaled on the back side of the bearing with my new best friend, 4 pound $10 Harbor freight Sledge. After about 5 decent strikes, it popped right out! I am sure the constant PB Blaster bath and 3 days of hammering/chiseling helped too.

So the pieces are apart. The dust shield is bent but figuring "who cares its just a thin piece of metal" I quickly put it in the vise to make it look vaguely like it did before and went to reassemble everything. Fun fact, if you use the suggestion of air hammering the bearing out by hitting the four bolts half screwed into the back, make sure you have replacements as mine got so deformed I could not get the 14 socket on them. Fortunately I was able to dremmel the bolts heads enough to where they would work. phew!

Reassembly went easy enough, except when I went to reinstall the parking brake pads. I've never had a setup like this before and didn't realize how crucial it is the backing plate be perfect since the parking brake pads rest against it. So I spent a half hour or so banging, prying, and forming the plate back into place. I'm about 80% there, but not sure I trust it and am going to buy a replacement to have on hand just to be safe. Once that's in, I SHOULD be in good shape, but we will see. The end of the axle got a little deformed from banging on it so much to free it from the bearing that the nut won't slide back on. I will have to dremmel that a bit too so the axle nut clears. Hopefully the threads are still good.

I fear the other rear bearing is on its way out. Its going to a shop for that one. I take pride in repairing cars myself but this has taken a week of my life and I can't justify it again. Thanks again for all of the help, suggestions, and encouragement.
 

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I live on a dirt road which is brined even in the summer to hold down dust. When it came time to replace that first rear wheel bearing, it was quite an epic. The entire assembly was rust welded. All the unhelpful advise to use this or that tool, hit it this way, press it out that way, just wasted time. After two days of pounding, all I accomplished was to knock the bearing apart, leaving the carrier still firmly rusted to the upright. Finally decided that all the CA and AZ folks who talk about how easy the job is must have a point...so I bought a new used upright and brake shield from a CA E-Bay seller. And whaddya know...it went together without any muss or fuss. Lots of anti-seize may keep it from locking up again.

As soon as I had it all back together, I realized that both sides had been making noise, so I did it the easy way and ordered more of those nice parts that had been vacationing in the sunny southwest. Easy. And just after that, one of the fronts began rumbling. So while I was on a roll, I replaced both fronts the same way.

Afterwards, I gave a try to pounding the bearings out of the old uprights to save them for next time. Only one came out this way. The rest were just fruitless work and blisters. So my advice: if you have a stubborn wheel bearing, buy a used brake shield and upright for about $150 that someone else has struggled to separate. Unless you like swinging a hammer for hours.

There are repairs of which I'm proud and then there is this. But I have four new wheel bearings and my hands have healed. Maybe I'll get lucky and the car won't outlast the new bearings.
 

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'10 3.6R Outback Limited, 2zr swapped Toyota Yaris track toy, '12 Mazda3 skyactive
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quick update for those following my misery... lol

Some good news, some bad. So after days of trying to get the wheel bearing off of the knuckle, I gave up and removed the whole knuckle. Nothing I had would touch the bearing. Fortunately, removing the knuckle was actually easier than expected. The pinch bold ended coming out pretty easily with a few forward then reverse spins with my cordless impact. I used the air chisel to drive the ball bearing up and out of the knuckle. The lateral link that I thought would give me a ton of trouble actually unbolted with ease. So, all in all getting the knuckle out wasn't bad.

By this time it was late on Saturday and didn't know of a place with a press that was open, so I set about trying to hit the bearing out of the knuckle, with very low expectations. Since the brake dust shield was still sandwiched between the two, I didn't know how to position the knuckle where I could hammer out the bearing and not bend the shield. Figuring I had nothing to lose at this point, I set the assembly up on a few bricks, with the bearing studs facing down, and whaled on the back side of the bearing with my new best friend, 4 pound $10 Harbor freight Sledge. After about 5 decent strikes, it popped right out! I am sure the constant PB Blaster bath and 3 days of hammering/chiseling helped too.

So the pieces are apart. The dust shield is bent but figuring "who cares its just a thin piece of metal" I quickly put it in the vise to make it look vaguely like it did before and went to reassemble everything. Fun fact, if you use the suggestion of air hammering the bearing out by hitting the four bolts half screwed into the back, make sure you have replacements as mine got so deformed I could not get the 14 socket on them. Fortunately I was able to dremmel the bolts heads enough to where they would work. phew!

Reassembly went easy enough, except when I went to reinstall the parking brake pads. I've never had a setup like this before and didn't realize how crucial it is the backing plate be perfect since the parking brake pads rest against it. So I spent a half hour or so banging, prying, and forming the plate back into place. I'm about 80% there, but not sure I trust it and am going to buy a replacement to have on hand just to be safe. Once that's in, I SHOULD be in good shape, but we will see. The end of the axle got a little deformed from banging on it so much to free it from the bearing that the nut won't slide back on. I will have to dremmel that a bit too so the axle nut clears. Hopefully the threads are still good.

I fear the other rear bearing is on its way out. Its going to a shop for that one. I take pride in repairing cars myself but this has taken a week of my life and I can't justify it again. Thanks again for all of the help, suggestions, and encouragement.
Excellent to hear you got it all sorted. It makes me wonder if I should just remove the knuckle and use my BFH on it instead instead of wasting my time attempting to use air tools. My rears are fine at the moment but I'm sure I will be battling with it down the road. As MXFrank stated above a new (used) knuckle would probably be a good way to go. The used front knuckle I picked up from a local recycler had the hub still attached to it - Even they didn't bother to remove it and I wasn't able to with my 5 mins of attempting.

If I have the funds a used knuckle from somewhere down South (or brand new) seems like the best deal for a car that cannot be pulled off the road a long time. Or as you stated just send it to a shop and let them deal with it. I almost did this with my front lower control arms after the battle I had with the first. However I was able to save some time the second go due to the things I learned from doing the other side. I just don't trust a shop to put anti seize on everything and would always rather do it myself for a piece of mind.
 

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I live on a dirt road which is brined even in the summer to hold down dust. When it came time to replace that first rear wheel bearing, it was quite an epic. The entire assembly was rust welded. All the unhelpful advise to use this or that tool, hit it this way, press it out that way, just wasted time. After two days of pounding, all I accomplished was to knock the bearing apart, leaving the carrier still firmly rusted to the upright. Finally decided that all the CA and AZ folks who talk about how easy the job is must have a point...so I bought a new used upright and brake shield from a CA E-Bay seller. And whaddya know...it went together without any muss or fuss. Lots of anti-seize may keep it from locking up again.

As soon as I had it all back together, I realized that both sides had been making noise, so I did it the easy way and ordered more of those nice parts that had been vacationing in the sunny southwest. Easy. And just after that, one of the fronts began rumbling. So while I was on a roll, I replaced both fronts the same way.

Afterwards, I gave a try to pounding the bearings out of the old uprights to save them for next time. Only one came out this way. The rest were just fruitless work and blisters. So my advice: if you have a stubborn wheel bearing, buy a used brake shield and upright for about $150 that someone else has struggled to separate. Unless you like swinging a hammer for hours.

There are repairs of which I'm proud and then there is this. But I have four new wheel bearings and my hands have healed. Maybe I'll get lucky and the car won't outlast the new bearings.
Good to know! On ebay I Just saw a whole knuckle assembly with bearing, with only 1590 miles for $194.00
 

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17 MX-5 RF, 10 Outback 3.6R
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Discussion Starter #31
FINALLY DONE! After only 8 days the car is back on the road. To my surprise, there is no noise coming from the other rear bearing so I won't have to replace that one anytime soon. Honestly I wasn't 100% sure I picked the correct bearing to replace. The "temperature" test indicated the left side was failing (had a higher temp reading) but the "noise" test indicated right side had most likely failed. Neither wheel had any play when trying to rock them back or forth. So glad I ended up doing the correct one. Not sure why the temp was higher on the left side, but I made sure to adjust the ebrake pads in case they were dragging a little.

Thanks everyone who offered suggestions and encouragement!
 

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'17 OB 3.6 , '11 OB 2.5 , '11 Legacy 2.5
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FINALLY DONE! After only 8 days the car is back on the road. To my surprise, there is no noise coming from the other rear bearing so I won't have to replace that one anytime soon. Honestly I wasn't 100% sure I picked the correct bearing to replace. The "temperature" test indicated the left side was failing (had a higher temp reading) but the "noise" test indicated right side had most likely failed. Neither wheel had any play when trying to rock them back or forth. So glad I ended up doing the correct one. Not sure why the temp was higher on the left side, but I made sure to adjust the ebrake pads in case they were dragging a little.

Thanks everyone who offered suggestions and encouragement!
Congratulations, what a great feeling :) Do you think you'll get an all-wheel alignment?
 

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'10 3.6R Outback Limited, 2zr swapped Toyota Yaris track toy, '12 Mazda3 skyactive
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Congrats, good to note that the temp test is not always perfect
 

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FINALLY DONE! After only 8 days the car is back on the road. To my surprise, there is no noise coming from the other rear bearing so I won't have to replace that one anytime soon. Honestly I wasn't 100% sure I picked the correct bearing to replace. The "temperature" test indicated the left side was failing (had a higher temp reading) but the "noise" test indicated right side had most likely failed. Neither wheel had any play when trying to rock them back or forth. So glad I ended up doing the correct one. Not sure why the temp was higher on the left side, but I made sure to adjust the ebrake pads in case they were dragging a little.

Thanks everyone who offered suggestions and encouragement!
What temp readings where you getting?
 

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1999 30th Anniversary Legacy Outback DOHC 2.5L 4EAT, 2008 Impreza WRX 2.5L 5MT, 2008 Impreza Wagon 2.5L 4EAT
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Unsure if they are the process is the same and being the owner of a 2013 3.6, i'm curious. I did it on my 99 forester last year and bought the following.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZABHLQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TD6K6G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Those are press in bearings on the 99 Forester. Your 2013 has bolt in bearing assemblies and those tools won't help much. I had my son who works at a Subaru dealership do mine on my 08 Impreza and with the Hub Shocker and a 10 lb sledge it came off with one hit. Sounds like others have had no luck with that tool.

A hub assembly from a non-rust state (CA/AZ or PNW)
 

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2013 3.6R limited. 2006 Wrx Limited
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Those are press in bearings on the 99 Forester. Your 2013 has bolt in bearing assemblies and those tools won't help much. I had my son who works at a Subaru dealership do mine on my 08 Impreza and with the Hub Shocker and a 10 lb sledge it came off with one hit. Sounds like others have had no luck with that tool.

A hub assembly from a non-rust state (CA/AZ or PNW)
I see now. I'm sure I can use the puller for something :)
 

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17 MX-5 RF, 10 Outback 3.6R
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Discussion Starter #38
Re: Alignment - no plans to get one until I have tires I actually care about lol. The car tracks straight, tires don't show any uneven wear, and I was able to set the alignment bolt to what it was set to before removing the lateral link, so I am not worried about it right now

Re Temp test - I don't recall the exact numbers. I checked all four wheels four times. Two of the times all four wheels were roughly the same temp. The other two times the left rear was showing about 30 degrees higher than the rest. Could have just as easily been user error or the tool I'm using isn't reliable.
 

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'10 3.6R Outback Limited, 2zr swapped Toyota Yaris track toy, '12 Mazda3 skyactive
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Re: Alignment - no plans to get one until I have tires I actually care about lol. The car tracks straight, tires don't show any uneven wear, and I was able to set the alignment bolt to what it was set to before removing the lateral link, so I am not worried about it right now

Re Temp test - I don't recall the exact numbers. I checked all four wheels four times. Two of the times all four wheels were roughly the same temp. The other two times the left rear was showing about 30 degrees higher than the rest. Could have just as easily been user error or the tool I'm using isn't reliable.
FWIW I had an alignment done after I replaced my front control arms when I bought my OB. I had the guy also check the rear as I wanted to know if I needed to buy the alignment adjustable rear suspension components or the cheaper non adjustable ones for down the road when they need to be replaced.

The rears were perfectly in factory spec with the factory non adjustable suspension components. Gives me some piece of mind to go with the non adjustable in the future
 

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2013 3.6r limited, 2013 2.5 pzev limited with SAP
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I just had a rear replaced on my 3.6 two weeks ago. I bought the part and took it to wagners Subaru. They charged me 119 otd on the labor for it. They took a 4ft pry bar connected to the hub and smacked the heck out of it with a 10lb sledge hammer to break it loose. They told me that its the standard way that they get em off! So for 119 bucks I think that was money well spent, also I obught the hub assembly online for 50 bucks!
 
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