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Premium Member
2006 outback 1996 2.5l legacy Outback
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247 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had an accident a bit ago and two of my studs on my back passenger tire broke off. I bought the studs and went to change them, but there is a plate blocking the back. Does anyone have an idea how to change these? Thanks in advance.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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27,165 Posts
updated thread title as it read like you had problems with studded tires.
 

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Master Caster
🖤💔💙 3 Beautiful OBXTs
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I'm gonna find out in about an hour on a 2005. I'm pretty sure I'm going to take the hub off to knock them in and out. Make sure I have good backing so I don't tweak the stud/hub flange.
 

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Master Caster
🖤💔💙 3 Beautiful OBXTs
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Hub has to come off

Ok,

A Subaru with rear disk brakes and the e-brake drum has to have the hub REMOVED to swap a broken stud. I just complete this work at a friend's who had 2 broken studs on a 2005 OB. There is no way a stud can be replaced with all of the e-brake sh*t in the way.

If the entire e-back was removed, then maybe. However, seating the stud would have to be done with a lug nut and a spacer to pull the stud all the way to seat.
 

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2017 2.5i Premium Crystal White Pearl with Ivory Cloth, with Eyesight and self dimming outside mirrors.
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358 Posts
Ok,

A Subaru with rear disk brakes and the e-brake drum has to have the hub REMOVED to swap a broken stud. I just complete this work at a friend's who had 2 broken studs on a 2005 OB. There is no way a stud can be replaced with all of the e-brake sh*t in the way.

If the entire e-back was removed, then maybe. However, seating the stud would have to be done with a lug nut and a spacer to pull the stud all the way to seat.
The more I read about the e-brake abortion, the more I wish I had got a Forester.
 

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Master Caster
🖤💔💙 3 Beautiful OBXTs
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The more I read about the e-brake abortion, the more I wish I had got a Forester.
They are the same ... lol. This is not a electronic e-brake car. It also doesn't matter. The issue is there isn't the necessary clearance to get the stud out. The front, is different. You can knock the studs out of the front without pulling the hub.
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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1,610 Posts
Ok,

A Subaru with rear disk brakes and the e-brake drum has to have the hub REMOVED to swap a broken stud. I just complete this work at a friend's who had 2 broken studs on a 2005 OB. There is no way a stud can be replaced with all of the e-brake sh*t in the way.

If the entire e-back was removed, then maybe. However, seating the stud would have to be done with a lug nut and a spacer to pull the stud all the way to seat.
Assuming he's working on his '96 (according to the subforum and sig), he'll have to pull the whole hub like he's doing a wheel bearing. The 96 is a press design (unlike the 2000-on).

OP MIGHT be able to get away with pulling the hub and CAREFULLY squeezing the hub back into the bearing, but it's likely you'll have to replace the bearing shortly after. Once disturbed, they don't like stay quiet.

While I don't condone driving on less than 5 studs (let alone 3), I would start to accumulate parts and tools to do a wheel bearing job. It's a LOT more work than just a wheel stud, but you should have trouble-free service for another 100k miles.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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I had an accident a bit ago and two of my studs on my back passenger tire broke off. I bought the studs and went to change them, but there is a plate blocking the back. Does anyone have an idea how to change these? Thanks in advance.
remove the caliper, bracket, rotor.

if ABS tone ring is in the way, unbolt the ABS tone ring and just push it back out of the way.

on some there's small gaps and you have to line up the stud with an area suitable to knock out the old one and install a new one. so rotate the hub until the stud has ample room.
 

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Premium Member
2006 outback 1996 2.5l legacy Outback
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247 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you for all of your replies. Once the weather warms up, will be trying this.
 

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2006 WRX Wagon
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53 Posts
The more I read about the e-brake abortion, the more I wish I had got a Forester.
can confirm that the drum parking brake setup is an abortion of automotive technology...

as others have stated, prepare yourself you do a full wheel bearing replacement, as that is effectively what you are doing.

when you do press the hub out of the bearing, the inner bearing race/half will go along with the hub... no getting around that.

if you're not going to replace the wheel bearing(s), clean out as much of the old wheel bearing grease as you can and replaced with new wheel bearing grease.

you'll likely need to replace all 3 seals (1 outer, 2 inner) - they are inexpensive and all part of the joy that is doing the wheel bearing job.

----

after the hub is removed, the wheel bearing housing will still be in the bearing carrier assembly (knuckle) - you can carefully remove the bearings in their plastic hold rings. take the time to clean any/all old grease. this will allow you to inspect the bearings for pits or rust. if you find any rust or pits, replace the whole wheel bearing.

just personal experience on this one... i've found that the bearing grease supplied is sub-par and there is not enough of it. so, with your new bearing NOT installed, clear out 100% of the bearing grease and then slather the new bearing with whichever high quality, high temp (Mobil 1, AMSOil, etc) synthetic bearing grease.

is this more effort? yes. it is also intended to NOT force you to go back and do this task again anytime soon.
 

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2006 WRX Wagon
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53 Posts
Most abortions don't live. And yet the e-brake tech lives on. Zombie-Status perhaps?
that i believe is the correct status of drum brakes. :p

funny thing - disc brakes (1890's) were invented before drum brakes (early 1900's) by a few years, disc brakes are more effective, have few parts, are easier to service, etc... and yet... we still have these horrid drum brakes.

the technology does exist to use multi-caliper setups... link below. you could still have the smaller caliper be cable driven, like the parking brake assembly on my 1986 Mr2 [disc only], that uses the rear brake pads for the parking brake friction point.

there is a US DOT rule that the standard brakes and the parking brake must be on separate systems (hydraulic VS cable) - in case 1 fails you can still use the other (had to do this once - not fun).

http://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/rear_brake_with_parking_caliper-jpg.424388/
 
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