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2014 Outback 2.5i Limited Venetian Red/ Moonroof package with Light leather interior.Rear Entertainment package. Remote Start.
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I just bought my first Outback last month. When should I wax it? I bought the Venetian red pearl. Is there a certain brand of wax that is recommended? I didn't know if there are rules on when to first wax a new car? We ordered it straight from the factory so it did not sit on a lot either. When I go through the automatic car washes, should I choose the ones with or without the polish?
 

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85BRAT97SVX03Baja5mtHonda's
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washing a car with fresh paint helps cure the paint properly. I would not recommend any polishes or harsh cleaners for the first 6 months. After 6 months, provided the paint is clean, polish/wax can be used. That is best procedure.
Never use a buffer on a new car, the paint is still soft, even though it is a base-coat clearcoat, that clear is still curing and you don't know it.

It would be best to handwash the car in the first half-year as well, and make sure you have a well cleaned wash mit, before during and after.
-never wash or wax in the sun, find shade or a garage.
 

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2019 Forester Sport. Love the Orange.
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With new paints and procedures it's not like in the past. As soon as you can pry your hands off the steering wheel give it a good once over or two if you clay bar and polish too.
 

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We had some body work done on one of our other vehicles. The shop said it's ok to wash right away (about 2 days after painting), but don't wax or polish for 8 weeks.
 

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2014 Outback 2.5 Premium
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Automatic car wash?!?!?!?!?
 

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2013 & 2014 Outback
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use this before you wax

Meguiar's® NEW M21 2.0 Synthetic Polymer Sealant formulation provides technologically advanced paint care and protection. It produces a noticeable deeper, darker, more reflective paint finish. Synthetic polymers deliver extreme protection, eliminating fine scratches and swirls, creating a flawless finish. It glides on easy, with a smooth, resistance-free wipe-off. - See more at: MeguiarsDirect.com:Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0 16oz Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0
MeguiarsDirect.com:Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0 16oz Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0

Same paint sealant the dealers use
Meguiar's® NEW M21 2.0 Synthetic Polymer Sealant formulation provides technologically advanced paint care and protection. It produces a noticeable deeper, darker, more reflective paint finish. Synthetic polymers deliver extreme protection, eliminating fine scratches and swirls, creating a flawless finish. It glides on easy, with a smooth, resistance-free wipe-off. - See more at: MeguiarsDirect.com:Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0 16oz Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0
Meguiar's® NEW M21 2.0 Synthetic Polymer Sealant formulation provides technologically advanced paint care and protection. It produces a noticeable deeper, darker, more reflective paint finish. Synthetic polymers deliver extreme protection, eliminating fine scratches and swirls, creating a flawless finish. It glides on easy, with a smooth, resistance-free wipe-off. - See more at: MeguiarsDirect.com:Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0 16oz Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0
 

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2013 Subaru Outback Premium 2.5i All-Weather+Moonroof Venetian Red Pearl W/ Ivory Coth
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I would wait to wax it at least 6 months, but as the previous poster said I think you can do anything you want now.

I love Meguiars products. I've used the Quick Detailer on all my vehicles for the last 18 years. You can save a lot of water and energy and dollars by simply dusting your car off with a California Duster and then using the Quick Detailer. I've likley cut down on my actual "washes" 90%. Most stuff you encounter on the road unless you live in mining country, live off a dirt road or decide to go rallying once and a while can be cleaned up with a dust off and quick detailer

As for wax I think i've only waxed our 2013 once (bought in July of 2012). I think I did it after the first year. I used the Meguiars Deep Crystal Carnauba

Quick Detailer
http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/a3332-quik-detailerreg-32oz/

Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax
http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/a2216-deep-crystalreg-system-carnauba-wax/
 

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New car paint dries rapidly, no curing like back in the day.
Wax it right away, I like Maguire's Gold Class but asking about wax is like asking about which brand of oil. We all have favorites.
Unless you like paint scratches, never go to an automatic car wash.
 

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I went to an automatic car wash once ... The next sunny day I could see millions of tiny scratches all over the paint.

It took hours to buff-out and I never did the automatic-carwash thing again.

However, I will occasionally use a coin-op, spray-it-yourself, carwash especially in the winter to get some layers of salt from underneath the wheelwells, underbody and radiator fins.

Never EVER use warm-water on painted-metal which is beow-zero temperature. This is an excellent way to break the metal/paint bond and cause peeling-paint.
 

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2013 Outback, 2.5i Limited w/ Moonroof
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With new paints and procedures it's not like in the past. As soon as you can pry your hands off the steering wheel give it a good once over or two if you clay bar and polish too.
Closer to this than longer. Last October I had to have my '13 Outback repaired from a deer hitting it. I asked my body man about the old school 6 month wait before waxing. He told me to give it 2 weeks to a month.

I try to wax my Outback about every 3 months. Very few waxes last any longer than that. As far as store bought waxes, the top rated waxes are Turtle Wax Ice and Meguiars NXT or Ultimate. Mequiars says Ultimate is their best, but I know many who prefer NXT. If you are willing to mail order, there are many other great products. A lot of products, and a lot of opinions. Many of the mail order products require a lot of steps to apply. I like my car, but I have a life beyond it.:hide: Hope I don't get banned for saying that.
 

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Back to the original discussion.... When hand-waxing, for very best finish, always rub FRONT-to-BACK on all painted surfaces. Any inevitable micro-scratches will be parallel to the ground and not as apparent in the sunshine.

Also, light-colored paint simply does not look as good as dark paint when waxed.

I used to have a black car and after waxing, the finish appeared as if it was 'chromed' or a mirror. Many auto-detailers can 'measure' the fineness of a wax-job by using a simple yardstick stood perpendicular on the paint.... if you can clearly see the numbers at the far end of the yardstick REFLECTION...then you are done.

You guys who talk about "Turtle Wax" or "Meguires" are amateurs :)

Unless you are working with a product like ZYMOL ( http://www.zymol.com/index.aspx ) you are using Walmart-class products. Petroleum-based or synthetic products are desigend for ease-of-application or immediate WOW looks. Real caranuba wax still gives the best-looking, longest-lasting finish.

Plus Zymol smells GREAT!!
 

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2011 SSM Outback 2.5i Premium
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With the baked factory finish, you should be able to wax it the day you drive it off the lot. With body-shop repairs, 2-3 months.

The reason for the difference? 2 possible reasons:

1 - While the body shop may "bake" the car to cure the paint, it's not nearly at as high of a temperature (or at least not nearly as long) as they use at the factory (all the plastic would deform).
2 - The cars aren't delivered to the dealer the day after they're built, it could take as much as a month.

Either way (or as a combination of the 2), the paint on the car is MUCH more likely to be cured before it gets in your hands than if there's work done by a body shop and you pick it up the day after it was painted. Case in point - when I had my Outback repaired after being rear-ended the bumper wasn't painted to my satisfaction (it had tiger stripes if you know what that means), I noticed this at 5 in the evening when I went to get the car back and by the end of the next day it was ready to pick up. They had sanded, painted and "cured" the paint in less than a day! Don't get me wrong, the finish actually appears to be high quality, it just needs time to "breathe".

I use Meguire's Gold Class wax on my silver Outback, I feel like it actually holds up well and usually only wax twice a year. I've been told a "sealant" can be applied much sooner after paint work than a wax can.
 

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One consideration.... many vehicles, on their way from the factory to you, ride on a train. The raildust created by the wheels tends to imbed itslef into any exposed paint.

This is why I make it a point to "clay bar" any vehicle I purchase before the inital waxing. Do some research on the "clay bar" procedure. It is not hard to do and if you care about the long-term appearance of your car, it is well worth the effort.
 

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You guys who talk about "Turtle Wax" or "Meguires" are amateurs :)

Unless you are working with a product like ZYMOL ( Official Zymol Website - Home ) you are using Walmart-class products. Petroleum-based or synthetic products are desigend for ease-of-application or immediate WOW looks. Real caranuba wax still gives the best-looking, longest-lasting finish.

Plus Zymol smells GREAT!!
I haven't used Zymol yet. I do see a lot of great reviews for it. But, on another auto car website I visit, I see as many people that after using Zymol, have moved on to other products, as there are those that worship it. You must already know though, . . . those who use Zaino, Collinite or Chemical Guys consider Zymol fans amateurs. :D
 

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2013 Subaru Outback Premium 2.5i All-Weather+Moonroof Venetian Red Pearl W/ Ivory Coth
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Back to the original discussion.... When hand-waxing, for very best finish, always rub FRONT-to-BACK on all painted surfaces. Any inevitable micro-scratches will be parallel to the ground and not as apparent in the sunshine.

Also, light-colored paint simply does not look as good as dark paint when waxed.

I used to have a black car and after waxing, the finish appeared as if it was 'chromed' or a mirror. Many auto-detailers can 'measure' the fineness of a wax-job by using a simple yardstick stood perpendicular on the paint.... if you can clearly see the numbers at the far end of the yardstick REFLECTION...then you are done.

You guys who talk about "Turtle Wax" or "Meguires" are amateurs :)

Unless you are working with a product like ZYMOL ( Official Zymol Website - Home ) you are using Walmart-class products. Petroleum-based or synthetic products are desigend for ease-of-application or immediate WOW looks. Real caranuba wax still gives the best-looking, longest-lasting finish.

Plus Zymol smells GREAT!!
The Meguiurs product I use is also Carnauba and works great.
 

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2019 3.6 Touring & 2018 H6 Limited. Previously also owned a number of Outbacks.
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Taking care of your car is good but this is an Outback, not a Range Rover... keep it clean, prevent rusting & use Klasse AIO once (or twice) a year plus an occasional 303 Protectant on headlights, front-end to keep of bugs off is more than enough.

Once you've taken a long road trip & hit some colorado trails, you'll forget about what kind of wax to use. I've got a few large paint chips on my hood I just use specs of 3M tape to cover them until I get whole bunch of them, then I'll touch them up all at once or have dealer take care of it.

Enjoy your car & just drive. :)
 

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Meguires and Mothers are both great products. You should clay bar the car first and get the grit and grime out of the paint. Than use a Carnauba cleaner/wax and finally a layer of pure Carnauba wax and you're done for 6 months.
 

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One consideration.... many vehicles, on their way from the factory to you, ride on a train. The raildust created by the wheels tends to imbed itslef into any exposed paint.

This is why I make it a point to "clay bar" any vehicle I purchase before the inital waxing. Do some research on the "clay bar" procedure. It is not hard to do and if you care about the long-term appearance of your car, it is well worth the effort.
Bruce
This typically is handled by all good dealers when doing the delivery prep for the lot. They use stuff thats far better than consumer sold clay bar.

Also keep in mind that the paint used on the plastics like bumpers is a different type of paint than whats used on the body panels

The paints used on the plastics is a softer flexible paint. The dealer I worked at we had a special product we used on those paints which was more or less a type of acid wash we avoided doing any sort of manual / physical contact on the softer paints given yes that soon after build they were still pretty soft.

All todays cars have a clear coat paint over the color. This clear coat is pretty thin you do not want to wash with dirty rags or do anything which would create an abrasive mechanical rub against the paint.

Its pretty wise to simply wait 6 months before you do any sort of wax effort. Best thing is lots of clean rags and washing top down lower sections of the body have rags that never touch the upper sections of the body etc.

99.99% of the damage done to paint is done when washing the car.
 

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Do not use a wax. Especially if you park your car outside while at work, or if you don't have a garage. Wax flashes off in the sun, leaving your paint unprotected. Get a good quality paint sealant, such a Prima Hydroseal, or Blackfire Wet Diamond. They should last for 6 months to a year, while a regular wax will last 1-2 months at best.

First, you want to give your car a good thorough clay bar. Get Clay Magic. STAY AWAY from Meguiars or anything you can get at Target, Walmart, Auto Zone, etc... Go to a reputable online dealer like Auto Geek. Clay Magic clay bar with a "quick detail" spray, making sure everything is VERY wet and clean before you start the clay bar. Also, DO NOT LET THE CLAY TOUCH THE GROUND. Same concept as your paint, it attracts small specs of dirt and if you reuse clay that has touched the ground, you can do more harm than good. After you clay bar, using a denatured alcohol mix (maybe 3-4% alcohol to 96% water) and wipe the car down. This cleans the paint of any other contaminants. Then you're ready for SEALANT. Not wax. While Carnuba wax is actually extracted from plants (with other additives), sealants are almost completely man made. They will do a better job of protecting the paint for an extended period of time. Waxes are GREAT for show cars, they give you a depth and shine that is unmatched. But sealant will give you the protection you're looking for, and 90% of the shine and depth of a wax. They're more expensive, but worth it.


I detailed a car yesterday that was 3 days old. We had to clay bar the entire car TWICE to get all of the overspray and industrial fall out off the paint before sealing it. Dealerships DO NOT know how to correctly prepare paint..

Good to note, once a rag has touched the ground, it's dirty. Do not use it on the paint or glass until you wash it.
 
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