I would tend to agree. Not only is it more practical, but it is also a lot less expensive to purchase a low mileage engine to swap out.
On the other hand, if you have another car and are up to learning while you perform the rebuild, and are patient in your endeavor, and not afraid of frustrations, know how to use measuring tools, then a short list is:
1/4 inch metric ratchet set
3/8 metric ratchet set; deep and shallow sockets
1/2 metric ratchet set; deep and shallow sockets
1/2 2' or 2.5' breaker bar
3/8 micrometer inch pound torque wrench
1/2 micrometer foot pound torque wrench
Metric combination wrenches to include: 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 18, 19 and 21, 22mm
Spring clamp tool
Channel lock pliers
Needle nose pliers; short and long
Phillips and Common screw driver set with small to large in different lengths
Pry bars, in different lengths with one at least 3'
Feeler gauge
spark plug gap tool
small punch
ball peen hammer
Dead blow hammer
Seal puller/installer
Extendable magnet with small magnet head (for when you drop a fastener in a crevice)
Good Lighting; the brighter the better, just watch out for the heat output of the light
PB Blaster
Stud extractor set (for the bolts that may break; if this doesn't get it out, a drill, torch or replacement part works also)
Cylinder hone
Piston Ring clamp
Royal Purple Assembly lube or equivalent synthetic
There is a way to get around the tool to hold the crankshaft still to loosen and torque the pulley bolt. If you have air tools, a 3/8 impact works good, otherwise, you can fashion a holder to work by hand.
Then you can pull the engine, tear it down, clean, have the machine work done and reassemble the engine.
The tool list above will cost you about as much as a used engine. You could get by without the 1/4 inch set, but you may find it handy in tight spots.
.
On the other hand, if you have another car and are up to learning while you perform the rebuild, and are patient in your endeavor, and not afraid of frustrations, know how to use measuring tools, then a short list is:
1/4 inch metric ratchet set
3/8 metric ratchet set; deep and shallow sockets
1/2 metric ratchet set; deep and shallow sockets
1/2 2' or 2.5' breaker bar
3/8 micrometer inch pound torque wrench
1/2 micrometer foot pound torque wrench
Metric combination wrenches to include: 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 18, 19 and 21, 22mm
Spring clamp tool
Channel lock pliers
Needle nose pliers; short and long
Phillips and Common screw driver set with small to large in different lengths
Pry bars, in different lengths with one at least 3'
Feeler gauge
spark plug gap tool
small punch
ball peen hammer
Dead blow hammer
Seal puller/installer
Extendable magnet with small magnet head (for when you drop a fastener in a crevice)
Good Lighting; the brighter the better, just watch out for the heat output of the light
PB Blaster
Stud extractor set (for the bolts that may break; if this doesn't get it out, a drill, torch or replacement part works also)
Cylinder hone
Piston Ring clamp
Royal Purple Assembly lube or equivalent synthetic
There is a way to get around the tool to hold the crankshaft still to loosen and torque the pulley bolt. If you have air tools, a 3/8 impact works good, otherwise, you can fashion a holder to work by hand.
Then you can pull the engine, tear it down, clean, have the machine work done and reassemble the engine.
The tool list above will cost you about as much as a used engine. You could get by without the 1/4 inch set, but you may find it handy in tight spots.
.
