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2003 Subaru Legacy L Outback Wagon 2.5L AT, 2004 Legacy Outback 2.5L AT, 2000 Legacy Outback 2.5L AT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2003 Legacy Outback that threw a connecting rod throught the block.

I found a 1999 Outback Short block at a junkyard that I believe was used with the dual overhead cams heads. The short block has 130xxx miles on it so I'm planning to rebuild it and put pistons for the SOHC engine in so the valves don't hit the pistons.

I found a shop in Utah that sells parts for rebuilding the engine and will also do the machining work, however they do not assemble engines. Their rebuilding kits make the cost of rebuilding the engine practical and they have stated that they are a large supplier of parts to the rebuiling market. However, since I haven't used them yet, I'm hesitant to post a link to their website.

I have the Subaru shop manual for this car. It calls out a NUMBER of very expensive, specialty tools some which are not in stock and not scheduled to be made until March (!).

So for the experts on this forum, what specialty tools do I NEED to purchase to rebuild this engine? Which tools can I build myself with a drill press and a welder? Are there any drawings or sketches of these specialty tools available that I could have a machine shop fabricate for me?

Any help will be greatly appreciated
 

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2003 Subaru Legacy L Outback Wagon 2.5L AT, 2004 Legacy Outback 2.5L AT, 2000 Legacy Outback 2.5L AT
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22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Alternative to the Subaru Specialty tools

Thanks for the advice. I hope that I'm not looking for a new motor after this is done! I've got about 6 weeks before this car needs to be in service so I have a little time to work on it. I've found that with most projects it's about the same cost to buy the tools and perform the job as it would be to have the job done. But the second time, the investment in tools is like money in the bank.

You are right that this is the first engine that I'm rebuilding. I've swapped out small-block chevy motors back in my high school days, but I haven't rebuilt a motor. I have a brother and brother and law to turn to for advice when I get stuck. I wanted the challenge of rebuilding a Subaru... and my 15 year old son wants to get his hands dirty too so I'm looking forward to a good father-son project.

We have a tool chest from 40 years of collecting tools. I think the oldest tool in the chest is the magnet on an extension stick that is used to retrieve the parts that I dropped :-/

Ones on your list that I don't have are the
  • spring clamps,
  • pry bars (Where are those used?? separating the engine and transmission or...??)
  • PB Blaster (I'm not familiar with this penetrating oil, I'll get some)
  • Cylinder hone (I'm planning to have the machine shop do the honing)
  • Seal installer (See list below, there are many seal installers in the Subaru special tools list)

What I'm most concerned about are the tools that cost over $100 each from Subaru that are listed in the shop manual. Here's the list
(The prices are linked to the source of the price and the picture of the tool, click on the price to see it)
Buy a Torx Plus bit set on Amazon.com $23.00
499497000 TORX Plus T40? $9.92 [T40
499057000 TORX Plus T50? [Used for removing the flywheel Torx Plus 50 head according to post
499767200 Valve Guide Reamer [will have machine shop do reaming if necessary]
499767400 Valve Guide Reamer [will have machine shop do reaming if necessary]
499767700 Valve Guide Adjuster [Will have machine shop adjust valve guide if necessary]
499767800 Valve Guide Adjuster [Will have machine shop adjust valve guide if necessary]
499037100 Connecting Rod Bushing Remover and Installer $16.48 [I assume that this tool is used with a hydraulic press.. that I don't have .. so I think I'll have the machine shop press in the bushings]
498457100 Engine Stand adapter [I have an engine stand that already has functional adapters]
498747300 Piston Guide [I purchased a ring compressor from HarborFreight for $10, I will use oversize pistons so I doubt that the tapered ring compressor would work anyway]

498497100 Crankshaft stopper $96.00 [Bent piece of metal I think I can fabricate with a 1/8" X 1" piece of cold rolled steel from the hardware store, a vice to bend it in and a drill press to drill one hole)
498857100 Valve Oil Seal Guide $38.59 [I don't think I need this to disassemble the heads, Is this needed for assembly?]
499017100 Piston Pin Guide $41.33 [I assume that I can just just a center punch or a steel 1/2 or 5/8" rod or even a wood dowel to perform the function of this tool]
499587200 Crankshaft oil seal installer $152.61 [What is the alternative for this tool?]
499597100 Crankshaft oil seal guide $51.95 [What is the alternative for this tool?]
499587500 Oil Seal Installer $78.72 for Camshaft oil seals [Is there an alternative?]
499597000 Oil Seal Guide $23.53 [Alternatives?]
499587700 Camshaft Oil Seal Installer $114.92 Use to install Cylinder head plug [Alternative?]
499207400 Camshaft Sprocket Wrench $244.53 [Alternatives?]
499587100 Oil Seal installer $99.24 [Alternatives?]
499718000 Valve Spring Remover $89.40 [Alternatives?]
499977100 Crank Pulley Wrench $92.99 [Home-made one described in this post: ]
499987500 Crankshaft Socket $68.07 [Alternatives?]
499097700 Piston Pin Remover slide hammer $344.00 According this this YouTube Video can make a tool from 1/2" steel rod or use a 1/8" key stock and push piston out from the 'other' access hole [ link
, ]



Alternatives Welcomed!
 

· Registered
2003 Subaru Legacy L Outback Wagon 2.5L AT, 2004 Legacy Outback 2.5L AT, 2000 Legacy Outback 2.5L AT
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22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I found a link with many good photos showing the rebuilding process without the use of ANY special Subaru tools here.

In one of the forum posts the poster stated that the rear-main-seal can be overdriven and if that happens it leaks badly.

Another poster described the use of a 'really long thin screwdriver' do drive the pins out. Another uses a long 18" drill bit extension.

The alignment tool can be a piece of copper tubing cut to length

I'm concerned at the moment that the crank may be the wrong displacement. The 2003 is a 79mm displacement, while the 1999 may be a EJ25D with a 75mm displacment.
 
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