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2001 VDC Wagon - White pearl - 302,000 km
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm working on a set of 16" stock 2003 OBW rims, that have marginal corrosion, mainly where the wheel weights were. They are going to be my winter wheels for a few years, but before I install the new 225/55/16 blizzaks, I wanted to clean them up and recoat them.
I can remove the clear coat and corrosion easily with 3M Rolok discs on a die grinder.

Has anyone here ever painted the machined part of the stock 2nd gen rims black, and left the gold in the cavities?

I'd appreciate pictures of any combination of colours really.
 

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I did that exactly with some 2001-2004 H6 15 spoke rims. used a drill with plastic pads, and then copper wire. if I had to do it over again i would have used a bench mounted wheel with a copper brush. = faster to hold the wheel and move it then fighting with the drill trying to spin itself away from the surface....

I for drill bits: started out with plastic disc pads, then switched to copper wire,...any swirl marks I made got filled in with self etching primer.

I used mineral spirits to clean up the dust and sometimes as a way to keep the dust down while I was working.



I taped off the area where the tiny spoke is, there was no nick there. faces of the rim had corrosion and scratches from pebbles, clear coat was peeling, and the marks from the lead wheel weights. clear coat likes to really peel around the center cap hole even if you got no pebble scratches there. (pebbles scratch when you drive through a snow bank at the end of a driveway, pebbles in it from the salted sand off municpal plows ).

took a long long time to tape off all those holes. I did this on bare rims with no tires so I could paint the edge. all this taping takes a long long long time.

probably been fine if I just let the self etching primer grab at that clear coat inside the wholes.

later I found others just using index cards, (probably best with old tires incase you have any extra spray that can not be cleaned up with mineral spirits.)




these are mine: 10 spoke rim is OEM from the factory finish (I added some air to that 10 spoke after taking the pic),
15 spoke rim is my finished snow rim with studded cooper.

this is rustoleum hammered gold, # 7210830 (its a little darker then the OEM gold).
had enough in one can to do all 4 with 2 coats, with a little left over for touch up. (this was over grey self etching rustoleum primer).





and a 2nd pic of it the same 15 spoke on its storage cart inside, (guy at my local tire shop,...put a nice BIG weight on,...I really should paint over that with the same paint sprayed on a paper plate and then applied to it with a brush,....maybe in 2027 I will get around to that when I enter one of my 2002s in a classic winter car show).




I typed on it before here though when others were asking about gold and showing their work:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/81-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/419554-gen2-bronze-gold-rims.html

here someone using index cards with the tires still on,...no wheel weights, and maybe some green tape on the valve stem cap.

 

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move thread/ updated title, and added a bit to my existing post.

just put those studded tires on today. 40F (4.4C) in the garage, 35 F ( 1.6C) outside.

next day warmer then today, will probably be the 2nd week in march.
 

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2001 VDC Wagon - White pearl - 302,000 km
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited by Moderator)
I did that exactly with some 2001-2004 H6 15 spoke rims. used a drill with plastic pads, and then copper wire. if I had to do it over again i would have used a bench mounted wheel with a copper brush. = faster to hold the wheel and move it then fighting with the drill trying to spin itself away from the surface....

I for drill bits: started out with plastic disc pads, then switched to copper wire,...any swirl marks I made got filled in with self etching primer.

I used mineral spirits to clean up the dust and sometimes as a way to keep the dust down while I was working.



I taped off the area where the tiny spoke is, there was no nick there. faces of the rim had corrosion and scratches from pebbles, clear coat was peeling, and the marks from the lead wheel weights. clear coat likes to really peel around the center cap hole even if you got no pebble scratches there. (pebbles scratch when you drive through a snow bank at the end of a driveway, pebbles in it from the salted sand off municpal plows ).

took a long long time to tape off all those holes. I did this on bare rims with no tires so I could paint the edge. all this taping takes a long long long time.

probably been fine if I just let the self etching primer grab at that clear coat inside the wholes.

later I found others just using index cards, (probably best with old tires incase you have any extra spray that can not be cleaned up with mineral spirits.)




these are mine: 10 spoke rim is OEM from the factory finish (I added some air to that 10 spoke after taking the pic),
15 spoke rim is my finished snow rim with studded cooper.

this is rustoleum hammered gold, # 7210830 (its a little darker then the OEM gold).
had enough in one can to do all 4 with 2 coats, with a little left over for touch up. (this was over grey self etching rustoleum primer).



and a 2nd pic of it the same 15 spoke on its storage cart inside, (guy at my local tire shop,...put a nice BIG weight on,...I really should paint over that with the same paint sprayed on a paper plate and then applied to it with a brush,....maybe in 2027 I will get around to that when I enter one of my 2002s in a classic winter car show).

I typed on it before here though when others were asking about gold and showing their work:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/81-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/419554-gen2-bronze-gold-rims.html

here someone using index cards with the tires still on,...no wheel weights, and maybe some green tape on the valve stem cap.
[/IMG]
Thanks for the info on the Rustoleum paints.
I will post pictures of the black on gold finished rims. Hope to get them finished this weekend.
 

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2001 VDC Wagon - White pearl - 302,000 km
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Looking for some feedback on this.
Should I paint the center caps, or leave them?
I'm inclined to paint the subaru letter etching gold, then fill it over with hot wax, then paint the caps black, and expose the gold letters for a dramatic contrast.
I'm pretty happy with the way the rims look. There's something about black and gold that is appealing... kind of like the first time I saw a '66 Mustang GT 350 in black with gold stripes.

They should look good on a black and gold car methinks.

@eagleeye, did yours look like this when you were done?
 

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I covered all the holes with newspaper so the original finish of subaru light gold is still there on the inside of the hole and the small spoke.

and I just painted the center cap with the same gold, when they were not on the rim.

in the past 10 days, I just put those on for use,
and noticed a couple scuffs revealing the grey primer I used. so sometime on a warmer day in 2018 I might touch that up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I covered all the holes with newspaper so the original finish of subaru light gold is still there on the inside of the hole and the small spoke.

and I just painted the center cap with the same gold, when they were not on the rim.

I just put those on and noticed a couple scuffs revealing the grey primer I used. so sometime on a warmer day in 2018 I might touch that up.
I thought about that too, but there's a lot of socket rash in the holes, so I decided to leave it until it's all done, then, if I decide to, I'll go in the holes with a flap wheel and clean it all up and hand paint the gold in there. Most of it is concealed by the wheel nut. I'm interested to see how the chrome nut reflecting off the black paint looks in the holes first though.
@eagleeye, if you want to move this thread to the "Gen 2 Bronze or Gold Rims" thread, that would be great
 

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@eagleeye, if you want to move this thread to the "Gen 2 Bronze or Gold Rims" thread, that would be great

I think its OK not merged. the one I linked is more about what color, and this current thread is more about details on the labor.

someone can come in and say what cleaners and polishing tools they used, and then post a lime green rim as the result.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did that exactly with some 2001-2004 H6 15 spoke rims. used a drill with plastic pads, and then copper wire. if I had to do it over again i would have used a bench mounted wheel with a copper brush. = faster to hold the wheel and move it then fighting with the drill trying to spin itself away from the surface....

I for drill bits: started out with plastic disc pads, then switched to copper wire,...any swirl marks I made got filled in with self etching primer.
I used a right angle die grinder and 3M Roloc discs. They make quick work of corrosion. Started with the brown coarse grade to get the clear coat and the pitting out, and finished with the greenish blue to blend in the clearcoat that was still intact. I used water with the fine pad. Most of the corrosion was at the ends of the spokes, at the outer edge of the rim, and around the center cap.
 

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move thread/ updated title, and added a bit to my existing post.

just put those studded tires on today. 40F (4.4C) in the garage, 35 F ( 1.6C) outside.

next day warmer then today, will probably be the 2nd week in march.
Maybe you could show pics of what kind discs and brushes you used for rims. Thinking of restoring and painting mine too
 

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Maybe you could show pics of what kind discs and brushes you used for rims. Thinking of restoring and painting mine too
just picking some generic pics off the internet.

this was the kind of plastic thing tried earlier, problem is it denigrates easy when working it,
and you are left with thing as wide as a golf ball to work with on future projects.
I think this is actually designed for working with woods more then metals.



in the end the ones that worked fastest were these copper kind, just don't push too hard as they scrape at the aluminum. I found the 2 in the upper part of the image are more useful, than the plain wheel in this case.

 

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yh i got those copper ones in different sizes and was using those for rust and stuff. yh i think they can be harsh for aluminum. i use copper brushes for aluminum stuff in engine bay it makes it really shine as new fast.
 

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I would also use a simple dust mask and some eye protection.

this work makes for some flying dust: original sealer, aluminum, and the residue from the lead wheel weights,.

. such are things you do not want in your lungs or eyes. I remember using a shop vac to clean my pants and shoes in addition to the floor.
 
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