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My daughters 2003 outback suddenly stalled while driving. The code came up was crankshaft position sensor A. So I replaced it. Still won’t start. I feel like It wants to start but something is telling it no to.
 

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2008 OB Limited 2.5i, Portland OR USA
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The code came up was crankshaft position sensor A. So I replaced it.
What did the wire harness and connector look like leading up to this sensor? It's always possible that the wire harness is the culprit, not the sensor, given this vehicle's age.

Did you keep the old part for testing to see if it is still good?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What did the wire harness and connector look like leading up to this sensor? It's always possible that the wire harness is the culprit, not the sensor, given this vehicle's age.

Did you keep the old part for testing to see if it is still good?
Thanks for responding guys. I did clean inspect and test the harness. Checked continuity. All seems good. Made sure the timing belt wasn’t broken. It’s good. Both new and old crankshaft position sensors are operating well. The new sensor is trading a little higher in ohms. So I’m using the new one. I unplugged the harness from the cam sensor and still no start. And I am getting fuel. Going to go get and replace cam sensor now. Hope it works don’t have time for this on super bowl sunday
 

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Outback 2011 3.6R Premium
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Even though you have fuel you may not have enough fuel pressure.

I believe your vehicle is from the generation that has a problem with a cap on the fuel pump failing. When this fails most of the fuel leaks out a seal resulting in low fuel pressure.

The symptoms you describe are similar to other vehicles that have had this problem.

It may be worth checking if this is the problem, the fuel pump is in the fuel tank and is accessed by removing the bottom of the rear seat. only takes around 30 minutes to check.

Seagrass
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Even though you have fuel you may not have enough fuel pressure.

I believe your vehicle is from the generation that has a problem with a cap on the fuel pump failing. When this fails most of the fuel leaks out a seal resulting in low fuel pressure.

The symptoms you describe are similar to other vehicles that have had this problem.

It may be worth checking if this is the problem, the fuel pump is in the fuel tank and is accessed by removing the bottom of the rear seat. only takes around 30 minutes to check.

Seagrass
That would be awesome. Will definitely buy a new cap. Thank you
 

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That would be awesome. Will definitely buy a new cap. Thank you
Just For clarification, I am referring to a metal cap on the fuel pump that is in the fuel tank (not the fuel cap where you fill with fuel)

If you remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank you will be able to tell if this cap has cracked and needs replacing.

Segrass
 

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That would be awesome. Will definitely buy a new cap. Thank you
Just to be clear, seagrass isn't referring to the fuel tank cap. The cap in question is a metal "cap" that is part of the fuel pump assembly. This cap has some weak spots that tend to crack with time, and thus bleed off the fuel pressure so it doesn't reach the engine.

One theory is that ethanol in gas swells the o-ring seal under the cap, which then adds to the stress on the under-designed part.

I'm not sure you can buy this fuel pump cap by itself. Maybe pull it off a used pump. Some people have been successful tig or mig welding the cracks.

You can see the cap (cracked and displaced) in this picture from this post.

478297
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just For clarification, I am referring to a metal cap on the fuel pump that is in the fuel tank (not the fuel cap where you fill with fuel)

If you remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank you will be able to tell if this cap has cracked and needs replacing.

Segrass
thanks for clarifying because I had it wrong. I Didn’t read it right.
 

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You got spark?
There are always 2 things you check first up with a car/vehicle what doesn't start, first test for spark, second check if there's fuel, from there you go on investigating..
 
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