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I'm assuming that you are referring to the AVO 5eat cutback exhaust when talking about the same in your thread? I mounted one on my XT 2005 and to my surprise the engine light started blinking after about a week and a half. so I parked the outback until I can research the problem. I must say I am very disappointed in AVO. Not one word of caution or preparedness of what to do next.
Any advice?
 

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2005 Outback XT limited
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386 Posts
Hold up hold the heck up - you cannot blame AVO or anyone for your issues - blame yourself first and foremost. You modded before knowing what you were doing or understanding what the ramifications of your modifications. You need to tune your car to support a mod like that! It's not a mount and drive away my friend. Sorry to be rude, but AVO has always been helpful when I've contacted them but even Ross @ AVO (**** he called me from Japan because of an issue I had with their headers) repeatedly says get a tune with any upgrade.

Regarding the check engine light - you probably set off the O2 sensors. It's an OEM tune. Can try unplugging the battery then doing the slow reset. Look on youtube for it. But more than likely a mechanic will have to clear the codes. Could be worse. Take off the AVO products till you know what you are doing or have the funds to support whatever you are building.

You can mount the AVO mufflers to the OEM midpipe without any issues. Once you mount the avo stainless 3" midpipe or anything in front of the mufflers you MUST tune your car.

AVO states quite clearly: you must tune your car with ANY aftermarket product. You put a bigger exhaust you are increasing flow and the ECU is only tuned for stock. Not knowing your mods I cannot say, but either get the COBB airbox/intake and accessport or get an open source tune from West Minst or find a tune shop in your region. Even look for an SPT intake/heatshield for your car.

All turbos have to be tuned when modded. Please remember that.
 

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Master Caster
2005 XT, Mildly Modified...2006 XT Limited, Highly Modifed
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16,079 Posts
I have a full turboback AVO system. I had to do some fabrication work to space out the mid-pipe and then again at the Y. Otherwise the muffler flanges would contact the AVO rear sway bar...LOL.

Look, when it comes to modifying cars at this level. You have to be a handy guy. The JDM sourced stuff is great, but sometimes it takes some finesse to get it to work.

As far as the CEL...if you changed mufflers only then it's NOT AVO.

I built my own intake, and thermal heat shielded air box. And guess what, it cuts heat...

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/62-car-lounge/271218-curse-cai-mctune-3.html#post4952489
 

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2005 Outback XT limited
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386 Posts
The muffler flanges hit almost anything that's not stock. There is a 1/16th gap between my whiteline and the muffler....it hurts to look at. Need to figure something else out, see if there is a way to change it cause dear lord that metal is too close together hahaha.
 

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2006 Subaru OUtback XT
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88 Posts
This is one of those "Just Saying".....

I now have a Tactrix Openport 2.0 and EcuFlash software so if anyone in the Greater Seattle area needs to do a flash send me a PM and we can see about sharing.

I will be doing some baseline scans soon.

Parts I have on hand left over from my 94 Legacy Turbo wagon build:
IHI VF43 turbo
Catless Up pipe with O2 and EGT ports.
3 inch Bell mouth Catless down pipe and total cat back.
OBX lightweight but stock size front pulley.
Oil to Air PVC coalescing separator to keep PVC oil out of the intercooler/intake.
 

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Hello all, I have an 09 Outback XT 5MT and right now the car is completely stock. I've been doing a lot of reading today about mods and tunes, and it seems like most 07+ XT/GT owners feel like a Cobb Stage 1/2 tune just wasn't worth the cost as it doesn't have the gains that the 05/06 models do. 05/06 are seeing ~14% power gains, but 07+ is only seeing 4%. So I guess my questions are:

- Is this accurate?
- Does this hold true if I went with someone like XRT to do the tuning instead of a canned Cobb tune?

I'm not unhappy with the car as it is, but modding is fun and more is always better... but throwing money to see minimal difference isn't very fun.
 

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2005 Outback XT limited
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386 Posts
You are better to go with XRT than Cobb. OTS maps are "general" maps that aren't specifically tuned for your car. On a new engine it might be fine but with an 13 year old engine it's honestly not worth it.

Power gains are minimal, tune will expose issues in your engine but the plus side is that you can have a cobb pro-tuner retune the map so it will be more or less forgiving. Mine just blew P codes galore during a flash. Had a rough idle occur so I changed maps and boom everything went. The AP was nice to clean the codes so I could get home but I have a feeling it will cost a lot.

If you want power - full exhaust, upgraded turbo (VF52 wrx, etc) upgrade fuel lines to top feed conversion, new TMIC, recirc bov, grimmspeed EBC, AOS catch can, CAI with air box and you might get to 300+ if pro tuned. Dreams are nice. Sucks when the car blows up.

Pro tune always, if you go cobb then be ready for anything.

You want fun for yours - swaybars, suspension upgrades and sticky tires and enjoy the ride.
 

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I don't think I'm dedicated enough to do all that. I was thinking tune, downpipe, and maybe a cold air intake (not sure if I would love or hate the noise) and that's as far as I'd like to go. So at that point I'm not sure if it's worth the money it would take or not.

I'm not set on the Cobb tuner at all, it just seemed easy. When you say "pro-tune" does that mean someone like XRT? Or going to some place that has a dyno and someone working as a tuner? I live in a small town and don't have anyone like that near me. I'd assume there's someone who does that in Virginia, but I'm not sure who.
 

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2019 Jeep Wrangler, '16 Forester, 89 Crown Victoria Wagon, BMW R9t, 1960 VW Transporter single cab
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have the performance class gen 3 XT's all faded out?

sad to see the comments declining. I've enjoyed driving a 2005 XT manual since my first one was purchased new. 60,000 miles with Cobb stage two AP tune, up pipe, down pipe, and some suspension mods. Most fun car to drive I've owned, total sleeper, no issues with the tune or engine fault codes the entire time. Agree with many previous posters on disappointment with the direction Subaru is going, have owned 5 subies, was a cult member a long time, but they are not currently making a car I'm interested in.
 

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2005 Subaru Outback XT Limited
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I want to start modding my 05 XT but I'm not exactly sure on how the process goes. I would love to get to Stage 2 for some extra power but I'm worried about the chance it will damage my car. It has over 168K miles on it but the engine was rebuilt recently (courtesy of my dad) but despite this I do not believe the turbo was worked on in the process. I plan on buying one first to get to stage 1 and later moving to stage 2. I was hoping someone could answer some questions I have.

1. What is the probability of damaging my car, engine, or turbo with the use of a Cobb AccessPORT? (and are they worth it? I'm skeptical of dropping $600 on one new or at least paying a couple hundred on ebay)
2. Does the fact my XT is automatic affect the process in any way for me?
3. What are some recommendations on stage 2 exhausts?

Thank you for whoever responds.

-Mr.Blue
 

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Hey all, new 05 OBXT owner here. I just recently noticed a lack of boost pressure in my turbo, and am looking to replace it. I've seen that a vf52 turbo from an 09 STI is a popular choice. If I were to install this turbo immediately, and without any supporting performance mods like intake or downpipe, would I still need a tune or would I be OK to run it just with the slightly bigger turbo until I can get some more performance mods?
 

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2005 Outback XT limited
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386 Posts
I want to start modding my 05 XT but I'm not exactly sure on how the process goes. I would love to get to Stage 2 for some extra power but I'm worried about the chance it will damage my car. It has over 168K miles on it but the engine was rebuilt recently (courtesy of my dad) but despite this I do not believe the turbo was worked on in the process. I plan on buying one first to get to stage 1 and later moving to stage 2. I was hoping someone could answer some questions I have.

1. What is the probability of damaging my car, engine, or turbo with the use of a Cobb AccessPORT? (and are they worth it? I'm skeptical of dropping $600 on one new or at least paying a couple hundred on ebay)
2. Does the fact my XT is automatic affect the process in any way for me?
3. What are some recommendations on stage 2 exhausts?

Thank you for whoever responds.

-Mr.Blue
Hey Blue, been a long time but here's some insight. First don't speak stages, speak modifications.

1. Probability is 80% an ots cobb map will screw your engine up. Look for a tuner in your area, there might be local facebook groups that can leave insight into a TRUSTWORTHY tune shop. You don't need an accessport either, they are nice to have to clear codes but otherwise the accessport should only sit in your glove box.

Pro-tuning requires putting the car up on a dyno, tuner builds a basemap and then tunes from there. A basic retune without mods will get you around 200hp, the numbers go up as you modify.

2. I have an auto, traildog has auto as well and no there isn't really much of an issue with tuning on the trans until you start getting serious numbers then upgrading the valve body of the trans by hexmods should be in order. Does tuning put stress on the engine and transmission, yes but if driven properly you should have issues. Also consistent maintenance needs to be done, shorter cycles for fluid changes.

3. Are you looking for a full replacement from front to back and have cash to throw? If so, AVO hands down does great work. I would suggest going with an EL header not UEL as the design puts more heat on the passenger side so it will reduce the lifespan of your sensors. EL headers give smoother flow to the turbo. Perrin or Invidia are the better options chased with the same brand or STI catless uppipe. Downpipe - Invidia highflow 3" cat is best and the mid and mufflers AVO. Avo now makes the full set up but their UEL is a three bolt which allows heat flex on the flanges.



Hey all, new 05 OBXT owner here. I just recently noticed a lack of boost pressure in my turbo, and am looking to replace it. I've seen that a vf52 turbo from an 09 STI is a popular choice. If I were to install this turbo immediately, and without any supporting performance mods like intake or downpipe, would I still need a tune or would I be OK to run it just with the slightly bigger turbo until I can get some more performance mods?
You need a VF52 from a WRX, not an STI. Different lines, the STI wont match. If you have a lack of boost pressure you should check your lines around the turbo, inlet and intercooler first. If you replace the turbo with a VF52 yes you need corrective tuning as your AFR will be off slightly. I would do everything at once, not case by case as you will have to strip down repeatedly as you add parts. With the VF52 as recommended by shops here in MA you should put in a downpipe, intercooler, EBC, DW fuel pump, intake and catless uppipe. It also helps to add the killer b oil pipe and tray. I suggest like I mentioned above to check your local FB groups for insight and talk to a reputable shop before doing a change.
 

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If just the turbo, possibly a touch up tune.

Since the OK is highly inefficient in its design, I would take advice from the previous thread.

We support tuning on this model better with opensource than cobbs, since it's an auto.
 

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'05 Outback XT Limited | JDM 2.0L | 5EAT w/SS | Stage 2
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Mishimoto X-Line Radiator & stock fan questions:

I upgraded to a Mishi X-line radiator & slim fan set w/external trans cooler & car gets hot (210+) quickly (esp. on 75+ degree days) so I thought I'd put my stock fans back in since they're deeper & should push more air (?). However, Mishi uses bolts for the bottom mound & the stock fans have plastic posts. The posts are loose in the mounting holes on the radiator. Does anyone know of anything to try to get the posts to more securely seat in those holes? I wrapped a couple of layers duct tape around the posts to fill the gap but when the fans kick on they still vibrate heavily. So much so that the fan actually hit my upper hose and sliced a hole in it & broke off a fan blade. Which leads to another question.

Should I even attempt to glue the fan blade back onto the fan? I'm planning on ordering another fan but wanted to know if I should try for a short term fix. Is there an OEM replacement fan out there that uses bolts on the bottom?

Car: '05 XT
Engine: JDM 2.0l, 5EAT, VF38 twin-scroll turbo, JDM catted downpipe, Grimspeed Cold air intake, IAG Street air/oil separator. Perrin pitch mount. Mishi X-line radiator & trans cooler.

TIA!
 

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Hi everyone I’m new to Subaru and just bought an 05 OBXT 5EAT with 160k miles. I have ordered a Cobb AP, a catless up pipe, and the killer b pickup tube. Is there anything else I should look at getting that’s safe to put on a car with 160k miles?
 

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2008 OB 2.5XT
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Hi everyone I’m new to Subaru and just bought an 05 OBXT 5EAT with 160k miles. I have ordered a Cobb AP, a catless up pipe, and the killer b pickup tube. Is there anything else I should look at getting that’s safe to put on a car with 160k miles?
What’s your turbo situation? Is it still the original stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2008 OB 2.5XT
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Turbo failure can be catastrophic to the engine. I would recommend reading up on this site or the legacy get site about the issues.

If the previous owner(s) were good about oil changes the turbo might be fine. Otherwise they tend to crap out around 150k miles.

If your installing the up pipe it might be worthwhile to inspect the turbo for shaft play.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Turbo failure can be catastrophic to the engine. I would recommend reading up on this site or the legacy get site about the issues.

If the previous owner(s) were good about oil changes the turbo might be fine. Otherwise they tend to crap out around 150k miles.

If your installing the up pipe it might be worthwhile to inspect the turbo for shaft play.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I planned to check the turbo and banjo bolt when I do the up pipe and everything else. If the turbo is bad is it better to just go a little bigger or stick with a stock size turbo?
 

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05 GT wagon, 09 Spec B, 18 3.6R Outback
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You should do a catted 3" down pipe too while you have the OEM DP removed, use the Cobb AP to flash a stage 2 tune and you'll be very happy.

Make sure your turbo has no shaft play, up/down, side to side, in/out. When you need to replace the turbo, put a new oil return hose too.

Here's a link to the other site with a ton of info on these cars. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html
 
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