Yes, rebuild, with new pan, pump, and cooler. From an eBay seller out of New York. High ratings, seemed like he knew what he was doing.
Starting with a running driving XT with a slight knock. I bought it knowing what was up. Previous owner had turbo failure, new turbo installed, but little/no oil pressure. Parked it. I bought it, pulled the banjo filter, flushed oil a couple times, oil light went away. I've put 10k miles on it. It knocks a little though. Would rather not chance it through the winter.
Heads will be pulled from the old block and disassembled and checked out. Hopefully they're still good.
Obviously new timing belt/WP will be used. Not a lot of miles on the current one but seems silly to spend all that money on the rebuild and reuse something like that.
Catless UP will go on as well. Pretty much new off a 2017 STI. Also have a Grimmspeed crossover pipe.
Right, obviously some degree of common sense plays a role there. I already replaced the PCV and related hoses, so that's one less thing to worry about.
Was the pan on it already? What kind of oil pickup was used? Chuck that OEM one I’m the garbage and get a Killer Bee. I know wont be using an OEM one when the time comes.
The best bang-for-the-buck is to grab a FelPro head gasket kit. This will give you all the gaskets from the heads up. You shouldn't need to use all of them, but it's nice to have.
New plugs, fluids... nothing out of the ordinary.
Is the replacement turbo a good, IHI unit? I'd be leery of an eBay special...
If you're going to do it right, then I'd suggest brand new OCVs. It's a chunk of change, but you know they're good.
For the TGVs, I bought a set of OEM deletes that came off of a model that didn't have them at all. They fit perfectly. Otherwise I'd suggest getting new ones or good used ones. They are generally useless on the car, can cause problems as you've seen and I'd remove them if you have the means.
For our plastic manifolds, MAKE SURE you don't get TGVs/TGV deletes which have a valley for an o-ring on the top flange, they need to have a flat flange to seal against our plastic manifold's o-rings (TGVs with o-rings are for metal intake manifolds). Be warned, you'll have to drill (spin) out the two inner metal intake manifold bolt sleeves and use wide washers with the inner bolts, the plastic is slightly offset from the earlier metal manifold placements and the washers distribute the clamping force.
I started tearing into the car tonight. All I can say is holy crap. It takes me about 15 minutes to get the intake manifold off a non-turbo car. This thing took me a good couple hours. There's so much crap in there. Way more vac lines and brackets and such.
I hope you're taking lots of pictures. The hoses can be half the fight when you put it back together. And you can bet that you'll need to replace most of them.
Make sure you stuff rags or something into those open intake and coolant holes. Don't want stuff getting in there.
Lots of pictures...haha...I'm hoping to come across some diagrams and such. And I'm not the first one to do this after all [emoji23]
Anyway I'm at the point of pulling the heads off the block (stuck at the cam gears) and this is what the cam journals look like... Looks pretty bad to me [emoji21]
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