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Hi All, Does anyone have experience with using Yakima towers and cross bars with the Touring model's low profile rails? Can't seem to find any pictures. I like the clean look of the Thule system, but all my accessories are Yakima.
 

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I looked as well. Haven’t found any. I just emailed rack outfitters to see what they say. Looks to me the Yakima setup would be 50” bars instead of 47” on the Thule. And from other images the Yakima RidgeLine setup sits a bit higher with the vehicle specific mount. Other vehicle pics make it. It look as clean as Thule as well. Kind of a bummer if that’s true, cause I usually prefer Yakima as well.
 

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Hi All, Does anyone have experience with using Yakima towers and cross bars with the Touring model's low profile rails? Can't seem to find any pictures. I like the clean look of the Thule system, but all my accessories are Yakima.
I just installed the Yakima Ridgeline towers using Ridge Clip size 28 onto my 2018 Outback Touring. I installed the silver Aero bars for sea kayaks at angles, and for winter use of a ski box. I have the round bar adapter for an existing ultra wide two canoe setup as well.

With just the towers and silver cross bars up, I can say the look isn't as clean as the Thule. The yakima ridge clips stick well below the fairing and grab the outside - smoother edge- of the bar as well as the more grab-able but mostly invisible inside edge of the bars. The clip is black and it looks kinda old school-like rain gutter grabbing rack type tech. I am considering painting the clips silver to match the rails. Why not, I guess.

The install feels rock solid compared to the q towers I had before. I can detect zero movement when I do the grab and shove without jerking test. I feel much more confident that my whole rig is going to be safe, no matter what I throw at it. The setup I had before had me stopping frequently to adjust and do safety checks. I never did have a problem...as long as the straps were good. Now I know I'll be safe loading three heavy sea kayaks up there. Whoo hoo.

I did mount the bars up there without following the last instructions to install the rubber strip into the guide track. I just didn't have time at first. Wow, it whistles. I have read some complaints of whistling. This must be it. I still haven't driven after going full rubber install, but I'm sure it'll be fine. Yay.

Takeaway, if you need higher weight capacity and extra width, this is the setup. Also, just in terms of brand vibe, if you will...Yakima reminds me of the American Pacific Northwest. Thule reminds me of Volvo or Saab. I don't have one of those, and I live in America. Also, you never see Subarus with Yakima racks. So there's the being original factor too. At least on the East Coast it's original. You see it more out west
 

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I just installed the Yakima Ridgeline towers using Ridge Clip size 28 onto my 2018 Outback Touring. I installed the silver Aero bars for sea kayaks at angles, and for winter use of a ski box. I have the round bar adapter for an existing ultra wide two canoe setup as well.

With just the towers and silver cross bars up, I can say the look isn't as clean as the Thule. The yakima ridge clips stick well below the fairing and grab the outside - smoother edge- of the bar as well as the more grab-able but mostly invisible inside edge of the bars. The clip is black and it looks kinda old school-like rain gutter grabbing rack type tech. I am considering painting the clips silver to match the rails. Why not, I guess.

The install feels rock solid compared to the q towers I had before. I can detect zero movement when I do the grab and shove without jerking test. I feel much more confident that my whole rig is going to be safe, no matter what I throw at it. The setup I had before had me stopping frequently to adjust and do safety checks. I never did have a problem...as long as the straps were good. Now I know I'll be safe loading three heavy sea kayaks up there. Whoo hoo.

I did mount the bars up there without following the last instructions to install the rubber strip into the guide track. I just didn't have time at first. Wow, it whistles. I have read some complaints of whistling. This must be it. I still haven't driven after going full rubber install, but I'm sure it'll be fine. Yay.

Takeaway, if you need higher weight capacity and extra width, this is the setup. Also, just in terms of brand vibe, if you will...Yakima reminds me of the American Pacific Northwest. Thule reminds me of Volvo or Saab. I don't have one of those, and I live in America. Also, you never see Subarus with Yakima racks. So there's the being original factor too. At least on the East Coast it's original. You see it more out west
Can you post a link for exactly what you used for these cross bars? The factory installed rails are slow low on my 2020 touring. And the antenna is too high and my boat sits on top of it. I am looning for anything, thule, yakima that I can either mount to the side railing or to take off the side raila ans put in a mount and cross bars that raises the clearance.
 

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If you are looking for low(est) profile (and have the tools or a maker space nearby to conduct necessary mount mods) The Yakima jetstream, (70" pictured ) using the included stainless lower track t-slot mount kit, can be attached directly through/to the OEM crossbars. Result is wide, solid, attachment real estate. Once jetstream's are mounted, using the SmarT T-slot Kit 2 , one can mount virtually anything on top in very clean manner. There are only 4 holes in total drilled through the OEM bar end/alu inserts as pictured.
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@NHRUlrich i'm gonna follow up here. Found some HD bars from a friend... do you know what the specific yakima part # is for the bolt/bracket/whatever that attaches thru the drilled holes? thanks in advance... -R
 

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Hi Makeitwork, I believe the part you are looking for is the Yakima "SL adapter" which slides into and clmpas onto the bottom of the HD bar track. The bars I purchased, came with the SL adapter kit which is comprised of 4x cast stainless female theaded bottom track insert and accompanying plastic enclosure/riser plates.

To make it fit, I had to cut and sand casting and plastic pieces down in overall height to effectively mate to the curvature of the top of subaru bars. Someone with a 3d printer could probably scan the SL plastic piece, design and print an taller plastic riser plate properly formed at the joint area which would avoid having to cut/shape the (very hard) stainless casting which was a bear across 4 of them. Either way, when you are done, you want the metal casting to rest on the top of the subaru bar for a firm joint. My solution was I placed 2 ply sections of MTB tube between the now modified SL mount kit and the top of the subaru bars to accommodate minor shape gaps and avoided using a bedding compound. If I had to do it again, I'd probable have someone custom make the plastic piece to an exact fit instead of route I took.. Happy to chat on phone to discuss but I'm really happy with the outcome.

Rudimentary visual below

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