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2020 Subaru Outback xt
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Discussion Starter #1
Sometimes trying to find answers to questions within the sea of posts can be time-consuming and tedious.

So just ask again, the battery in my 2020 Subaru Outback XT had died a couple of times with the stereo going. I get the fast clicking sound when I try to start it.

How do we know what type of battery I have? I didn't even know there were different kinds of batteries. For example, what is a EFB? I had the battery tested, but they say it is fine.

Any suggestions or more information. Does anybody have a battery they like for our cars?
 

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Sometimes trying to find answers to questions within the sea of posts can be time-consuming and tedious.

So just ask again, the battery in my 2020 Subaru Outback XT had died a couple of times with the stereo going. I get the fast clicking sound when I try to start it.

How do we know what type of battery I have? I didn't even know there were different kinds of batteries. For example, what is a EFB? I had the battery tested, but they say it is fine.

Any suggestions or more information. Does anybody have a battery they like for our cars?
Subaru should replace the battery for free if it's failing, and if one dealer isn't diagnosing the car properly you could go to another dealer and/or contact Subaru of America to complain. 1 (800) 782-2783

If you really want to buy a third party battery and install it yourself, choose an AGM, size H5 or Group 47 - any of the following should be fine:


East Penn/Deka 9A47, often found under many private-label brands like NAPA https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP9847

 

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2020 Outback Premier 2.5i
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If you didn't know there were different types of batteries, then I'm going to respectfully suggest looking at a few vids on how to swap one out. If you're picking one off of a shelf, pay attention to which post is where when you orient the battery in the same way as the one in your car when you look at it.

Before replacing a battery in a new car I'd get myself a cigarette plugin volt meter and see what's going on while you're driving. Of course, I'm going to provide the obvious disclaimer that says don't be watching the meter when you're driving - let your passenger do that. There have been suggestions that the ecm seems to be failing to increase the charging output while driving, unless you suddenly add a load such as AC or something similar. So the idea behind the meter suggestion is, if you have a charging issue a new battery isn't going to fix it for long.
 

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2020 Subaru Outback xt
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Discussion Starter #5
If you didn't know there were different types of batteries, then I'm going to respectfully suggest looking at a few vids on how to swap one out. If you're picking one off of a shelf, pay attention to which post is where when you orient the battery in the same way as the one in your car when you look at it.

Before replacing a battery in a new car I'd get myself a cigarette plugin volt meter and see what's going on while you're driving. Of course, I'm going to provide the obvious disclaimer that says don't be watching the meter when you're driving - let your passenger do that. There have been suggestions that the ecm seems to be failing to increase the charging output while driving, unless you suddenly add a load such as AC or something similar. So the idea behind the meter suggestion is, if you have a charging issue a new battery isn't going to fix it for long.
Thanks, I have installed batteries numerous times, but I have not had to buy a new battery in ages. Last time I just went to Sears and got the DieHard battery they suggested.

Thanks for the suggestion about the volt meter.I have an appointment with the dealer in a couple of weeks.
 
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2020 Outback Premier 2.5i
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Just noticed your sig. :D
Colorado is on my list of US places to visit on the road trip that isn't happening any time soon.:mad:
 

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2020 OB Limited, Titanium & Magnetite Grays
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Thanks for the suggestion about the volt meter.I have an appointment with the dealer in a couple of weeks. [/QUOTE said:
From a limited survey, only early installed 620Amp batteries have failed. Failed 620 batteries were replaced with 640A batteries and none of the 640s have been documented to fail. This is interesting because the 640s went into vehicles that had a previous battery failures... All reported factory 620 batteries installed after a certain date (Apr or May 2020?) continue to not be reported as a problem. The survey also suggests that all of the factory installs have been only 620s. All of the above is in agreement with information from other posts I recall reading. Seems that these data support the suggestion the problem is due to only the battery.

Your can also check the voltage by going into Dealer Mode. It is easy to read while driving. To get into this mode do the following:
  1. Start the engine
  2. Push and hold the two up/down buttons used to adjust the temperature. I suggest using the two on the driver's side to avoid loosing the temperature setting syc.
  3. While the two temp adjustments are being held in, push the Vol knob, located directly above, twice within 1-2 seconds.
  4. Release all buttons
  5. The dealer mode should quickly appear with the current voltage displayed near the top.
  6. Exit this mode by pushing the home soft-key located near the bottom. Otherwise the voltage display should remain on the screen.
I suggest turning the ASS off and then on before entering dealer mode. The results may be surprising.
 

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Subaru is most definitely not the best when it comes to batteries.
Had the battery replaced 3 times in our 2016 gen5.

Yesterday I went out and checked the voltage on the gen6 battery. It was 12.2V. So I fully charged it with a smart charger. It was at 12.7V about an hour after I disconnected the charger. 6 hours later, back down to 12.3V.
I'll have to watch it .... So far, the car always started with no issues, but these voltage readings are not good.
 

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I have the same issue with my original 620 - never failed to start but voltage won't stay. Either the battery is defective or the charging algorithm is. When the engine is not running, the windows are slow to open or close - from low voltage. Since people who get the 640 battery seem to have no problems, it's probably the battery. Part of me wants to just not deal with Subaru and just buy the Napa 600 CCA AGM made by East Penn, available locally.

My plan is to mention the battery problem the next time I bring the car in for some other TSB and if they won't replace the battery, just do it myself.
 

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I just went outside and measured: 11.98V. WTH? Charged to 100% two days ago, drove last night, for a good 40+ minutes.

Edit: just checked. Yes, it's the 620. Why can't Subaru supply a normal, decent battery? Never had issues like this with any other car. My truck (2012 F-150) had it's original battery until this summer - when I swapped it out just out of precaution.
 

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Is it correct to say that anything less than 12.4 volts is slowly damaging the battery and anything less than 12 volts is quickly damaging the battery, and that such damage is mostly irreversible?

To anyone who buys a new battery please fully charge it yourself because retailers no longer seem to do this and the car's charging system won't fully charge a depleted battery in typical use and definitely not in short trip use.

If the 620 battery is the problem - these are Johnson Controls/Clarios batteries and the company has been bought out by a private equity firm. Often these ownership changes are accompanied by cost cutting.
 

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I just went outside and measured: 11.98V. WTH? Charged to 100% two days ago, drove last night, for a good 40+ minutes.

Edit: just checked. Yes, it's the 620. Why can't Subaru supply a normal, decent battery? Never had issues like this with any other car. My truck (2012 F-150) had it's original battery until this summer - when I swapped it out just out of precaution.
Fords and GM's seem to pick good big batteries....model T's were made to start on the coldest day in winter, ...so you could jump start your rich neighbors thang.
(my grandfather actually used a pair of draft horses to pull start a duesenburg once,)
 

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I just went outside and measured: 11.98V. WTH? Charged to 100% two days ago, drove last night, for a good 40+ minutes.

Edit: just checked. Yes, it's the 620. Why can't Subaru supply a normal, decent battery? Never had issues like this with any other car. My truck (2012 F-150) had it's original battery until this summer - when I swapped it out just out of precaution.
My 620, installed Nov 2019, will rapidly discharge from full charge to 11.9v. This happens when I fully charge the battery to 12.6V and then leave it untouched overnight or 24 hours. When I run the vehicle with ASS ON it frequently runs down to 11.9v when the ASS has stopped the engine. When running with ASS OFF it is showing 14.1V almost all (99+%) the time. After a long, 60+ minutes, drive, with ASS OFF, I turn off the engine and the voltage is usually 12.4V with it rapidly dropping I am using the Dealer Mode for all voltage readings.
 

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Although nobody has reported "problems" with the 640 I can't recall anyone posting resting voltages. Could someone with the 640 battery post their resting voltage?
 

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This battery is not going to last long, that's pretty much for sure. As mentioned above, fully charged with external charger two days ago, driven yesterday. The above was after about half an hour of vacuuming, with the doors open, and engine not running. Measured 11.92V across the battery terminals.
Luckily, batteries are fairly inexpensive, and easy to replace.
ASS will give many of those batteries out there the deathblow, I am afraid. I don't think this battery is up to the task, even without ASS.
 

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I'd be looking at the entire system before replacing the battery. You could have charging and or issues in the power circuit that is making the battery go./seem dead. ( i.e the battery could be the symptom and not the cause.) Others have reported as much. It's a new car. Let Subaru figure it out.
 
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