[zim2dive]

I never have an OEM battery make it past ~3 years in NC.

I also have *never* needed a PDF length checklist in any previous car when changing a battery. Most I've ever had to do was enter s 4-digit radio code. Engineering has done a poor job when so much process is needed after a simple battery replacement (or even just disconnecting to do some mods)

 

[GeoffD]

I never have an OEM battery make it past ~3 years in NC.

I also have *never* needed a PDF length checklist in any previous car when changing a battery. Most I've ever had to do was enter s 4-digit radio code. Engineering has done a poor job when so much process is needed after a simple battery replacement (or even just disconnecting to do some mods)

I suspect most people who spend more on their summer A/C bill than their winter heating bill have similar battery life.

I've never had to do anything but reprogram the clock but I haven't had much in the way of fancy electronics.

I sure hope I remember this thread if I need to change batteries. I'm a bit concerned about the small battery in subzero Vermont winter. I have a battery blanket from my last cars but I'd prefer to avoid installing it. Between battery charger, battery tender, and spare batteries I have for the boat, I should have no problem keeping 12v on the car electrical system while I swap batteries.

...assuming I remember.

 

[dwnthehatch]

Not really a reset but I lost all of my stored maintenance records and reminders as well as the dealer info that was programmed into the infotainment system.

 

[oldsteve]

We have a Subaru Forester 2017. The battery died and had to be replaced. There was no need to reset the radio station settings. I figured out the reset of date and time pretty quickly (like immediately). Two days later, I learned about the window problem. Found the fix pretty quickly in the window section, not the battery section of the manual.

I agree, there should be a definitive list of what might need resetting, preferably under battery, not scattered throughout the manual. Has anyone found such a list? Are there any other "gotchas" beside the windows and the date/time?

 

[jakemccoy]

This is one reason Subaru (and all other makers) should offer a base model with a 1990’s electrical system. Just give me a USB/power port for my cell phone. There is a considerable market for such cars.

 

[skipw]

This is one reason Subaru (and all other makers) should offer a base model with a 1990’s electrical system. Just give me a USB/power port for my cell phone. There is a considerable market for such cars.

You want a '90s electrical system, but with newer stuff added?

 

[AvidHiker]

...I agree, there should be a definitive list of what might need resetting, preferably under battery, not scattered throughout the manual. Has anyone found such a list? Are there any other "gotchas" beside the windows and the date/time?

There is a detailed list provided in the FSM for the 2015 Outback (may be somewhat different for your Forester). See this post:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...2015-2019/262786-what-must-reset-after-battery-disconnection-2.html#post2926242

Apparently, besides presets, only the windows typically require attention. Personally, I also like to let it do the throttle and idle adjustments. After reconnecting the battery, you put the ignition in the ON position without starting the engine. Leave it there for at least 10 seconds for the throttle to complete adjustment. Next, start the engine and make sure no additional loads are present (lights, AC, etc). Without touching the gas pedal, let the engine idle until fully warmed up (radiator fan activates at least twice). Done.

 

[jakemccoy]

This is one reason Subaru (and all other makers) should offer a base model with a 1990’s electrical system. Just give me a USB/power port for my cell phone. There is a considerable market for such cars.

You want a '90s electrical system, but with newer stuff added? <img src="http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />

One new wire is a billion times less complex than the 2018 computer system in the Outback, sorry if that threw you off track. I could make the connection myself, not a big deal if they did not include the connection.

 

[Shez82]

Battery


In my case- I DISAGREE -- my experience with factory batteries has been great. Our 08 CRV battery lasted 5 years, 02 F150-- 7 years on the first, then bought identical battery from dealer --it went for 5 years -- the 89 Toyota has the same battery (Toyota branded) in it, that the previous owner had the dealer put in it when I bought it 5 years ago.
I just wish that manufacturers would put as good of tires on as they do batteries!

I know this is a really old thread but I came to see if I could find out what I needed to do on my '08 Legacy, it's 4°c outside, the car hasn't been used for 6 days and it wouldn't start, not too surprising considering it's the original 11 year old Panasonic battery that came in the car from the factory. I've even found a date code on the battery 190208 which fits with the age of the car.

 

[AvidHiker]

I know this is a really old thread but I came to see if I could find out what I needed to do on my '08 Legacy...

That would probably be better asked in the Gen 3 forum (this is Gen 5), but I wouldn't be surprised if what I wrote above in post #27 also applies to your Legacy. Best bet is to just find the FSM for your vehicle. It will have everything you'll ever need to know.

 

[Cliff51]

Take a look at this: Battery relearn on Forester forum. We had an 08 Forester for 10 years and replaced the battery twice. This procedure worked just fine both times.

 

[kutyu]

I am using an inexpensive Walmart jump starter battery backup for my car pump. If I have to replace my Forester 2020 battery then, after releasing the screws, I will simply connect the active jump starter to the terminals of the battery wire, as if I would have to jump start. Then remove these terminals from the car battery, replace the battery and reconnect the terminals to the new battery. Then disconnect the jump starter. In this way, the voltage supply to the car will not be interrupted thus no reset is needed. Be careful not to shortcut the terminals under voltage (you may put them in plastic sandwich bags while replacing the battery).

 

[z28dug]

The only thing I needed to reset on my wife's '17 Forester was the power windows. I think some make too big a deal out of something as mundane as a battery swap.

 

[nellafleck]

Just resurrecting this thread to say THANKS! I replaced the battery on my '06 Outback recently, and after connecting the battery and driving for a while, I got the PO506 Check Engine Light code. Following all the steps here greatly helped!

 

[TAP]

After going through several threads it became apparent a battery disconnection will require possible reset of several features. I saw where window operation may be affected. I assume PIN number will be lost. There are probably other things.

I am aware of devices that allow you to maintain computer codes, but over the life of the vehicle I am sure there will be times the battery will either be disconnected or go completely dead without a back-up power device in place.

Is there a list or summary of items that need to be checked and potentially reset (and how to do it) after loss of battery power? Hopefully this information is in one place rather than having to jump around the owners manual.

The battery in my 2018 Outback Limited with 2.5 L engine was not able to start it after a week in sub-zero weather. It was too weak to even lock the doors. AAA Jump Started it. Everything seemed fine except that the units used in the Tire Pressure Sensor Display changed from psi to kPa. The next day I took it to the dealer and the service advisor reset the units to psi while sitting in the driver's seat. He then had the battery tested by a technician. They decided to replace the battery with a heavier duty Subaru battery.

Things seemed fine when I drove it away from the dealer but once tire pressure display commenced I saw that the units had been changed back to kPa. They had forgotten to reset the units.

I've studied the manual and it addresses the issue. I've tried to follow its process to change the units back to psi but was unable to cause the change. I think that there is some detail missing from the manual. I'll probably go back to the dealer to ask a service advisor to rest the display. This needs to be added to the list of resets after battery change.

ASIDE: Maybe I should just stick with the kPa units and learn to work with them since they provide three digits of precision, not just two, in the pressure range of interest. I can use kPa units with my Milton Industries Part#: 572D
Pro Digital Tire Inflator/Pressure Pistol Grip Gauge - KWIK-CHANGE® Safety Chuck, 36" Hose

 

[blkprlz]

First of all, everything’s shut off in the car with the ignition off. Yes, there is a minimal draw on the battery with everything off for the security system & maintaining settings but it’s minimal, in the milliamps, right?
With that said, I would think a 1-1/2 amp battery tender would be all that is needed to retain all the settings in the car. Plain & simple.
I don’t get it! Why would you want to make extra work for yourself by having to reprogram everything?? The dealer service dept. on the other hand, $$!

 

[AvidHiker]

First of all, everything’s shut off in the car with the ignition off. Yes, there is a minimal draw on the battery with everything off for the security system & maintaining settings but it’s minimal, in the milliamps, right?
With that said, I would think a 1-1/2 amp battery tender would be all that is needed to retain all the settings in the car. Plain & simple.
I don’t get it! Why would you want to make extra work for yourself by having to reprogram everything?? The dealer service dept. on the other hand, $$!

Pressure units aside (for later Gen 5s), you really barely have to do anything, in fact most of what's listed in the FSM (post #12) isn't typically necessary. I've had the battery in my 2015 disconnected numerous times and the only thing I've ever had to do was reset the windows. Besides that, the trip odometers go back to zero, nothing else is lost. IOW, no reason to use a battery tender (which is not advisable unless it was designed with a proper "supply" mode).

 

[blkprlz]

IOW, no reason to use a battery tender (which is not advisable unless it was designed with a proper "supply" mode).

Could you explain this proper supply mode aspect?
I noticed that when the ‘charged’ light is on, then open the door, the ’charged’ light goes out. I’m assuming at this point that the tender is kicking out 1.5 amps.

 

[AvidHiker]

Could you explain this proper supply mode aspect?
I noticed that when the ‘charged’ light is on, then open the door, the ’charged’ light goes out. I’m assuming at this point that the tender is kicking out 1.5 amps.

Yeah, IIRC, some tenders (cheaper units in particular I'd imagine) have a relatively high AC ripple voltage riding over the DC. This is normally filtered out by the battery, but, if you remove the battery, then you could be risking damage to the vehicle's electrical system. My CTEK 7002 charger/maintainer has a low-ripple "supply" mode which was designed to safely power a vehicle without a battery. Heh, and yet I've never even bothered to use it.

 

[blkprlz]

Thank-you very much for that info! Will dig deeper on mine.