Well ...

The tire's being different diameter [if they are or were for any length of time] cause essentially damage the clutches and or viscous coupling in the trans. There is a thread on here with pictures of replacing the rear section which has those parts in it, you may be able to source one at a junkyard.

I would try getting all the tires the same first and see if the problem goes away since any variation is interpreted by the car as a wheel slipping and will engage the lockup.

Can't say if the smoke is continued trans leakage or remnants of the initial overfill. There are a couple vent tubes on top of the trans where it would puke out fluid and there is a chance that the pump housing is cracked and forcing fluid out that vent.

Shouldn't be any connection between the CEL and the turn signal. Check the turn signal bulb housing for corrosion [especially the rear] to see if there is a ground/hot loop being created.

 

I've never seen any major issues with tires of different manufacturers provided they are the same time and good tread left in them. My garage puts thousands of used tires on cars every year and the customers don't report anything out of the sorts.

Check to see if you're leaking trans fluid. I doubt it, tho, but check the pan gasket and extension housing gasket for any leaking or loose bolts.

Torque Bind is annoying and the fix is many hours. Took me all night doing it, but it works and now I no longer have torque bind. Have you done the procedure for pulling AT codes? It's located here: Ultimate Subaru Message Board - View Single Post - How To: Read transmission codes

 

It's not so much the manufacturer but the diameter which varies between manufacturers.

I've had over half an inch difference on different brands, brand new, with the same number stamped on the tire.

Mixing and matching tires is not nearly as important on non fulltime AWD vehicles as far a handling. The only issue on a 2wd would be ABS and possible differential if it were LSD and the tires were different side to side.

 

Based on what I read since my original post I decided to order a new Duty C solenoid, which will get here Tuesday. When I replace that, I'll check on the other stuff that can be messed up, and do whatever I have to do then... Hopefully nothing.

If that fixes the problem, the next step will be getting all 4 tires replaced, just in case.

I'm also going to drain the transmission pan again and see how much comes out vs. the 5 quarts I put in, to see how much, if any, is actually puking out.

Also, is this the thread you were taking about, ETC?
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...rated-guides/27878-4eat-tail-section-rebuild-without-removing-transmission.html

Even if not, it's nice to see pictures of what I need to take apart to get to the solenoid.

Thanks for the responses so far, I'll keep this updated as I go.

 

I would diagnose your fluid problems first before anything else. If your fluids are mixing (front diff and ATF?) or leaking that needs addressed first and if it means transmission replacement, then changing the Duty C is kind of pointless.

Based on your description you've made an accurate diagnosis that the Duty C has failed. Whether the clutches are good, who knows?

If you have torque bind, you can remove the rear half of the driveshaft rather easily and just drive it in FWD until you figure out the fluid issues.

 

Crap, I was reading my manual wrong, and thought it was saying the front diff DID use ATF... It seemed odd, but that's what it looked like it was saying. Now I'm looking again, and it's definitely not supposed to have ATF in it... But it does... And I didn't put it in there...

So I need a whole new transmission then? I can drain the fluid to make sure, but it was definitely red on the dipstick... Awesome.

If there is another way, like just replacing the seal, whatever is less unaffordable, let me know.

If you have torque bind, you can remove the rear half of the driveshaft rather easily and just drive it in FWD until you figure out the fluid issues.

I also missed this at first, it'll probably be my solution for now.

 

Yeah, That's the thread I was talking about.

I'd agree that you need to figure out exactly what's going on with the trans before deciding to throw money at it, might be better off with a salvaged replacement if it's too far gone.

Like gross gary suggested, there may be a blown seal between the trans and diff. That would explain trans fluid loss with little or no external leakage.

Check the diff fluid level, if it's high, drain some in to a white pan and see if it's a reddish color. If so, might want to think full replacement.

 

okay, return or sell that Duty C, you need another transmission. the task of replacing that seal is rather intense and requires dissassembling the front/diff trans and resetting the backlash upon reassembly. not something for the faint of heart. i mean it's not all that hard actually to retain the backlash appropriately but unless you're hard core a transmission tear down probably isn't most folks cup of tea. the front diff and trans are an assembly, it's not like they're completely separate.

it would be good to double check and make sure that the previous owner or something didn't dump ATF into the front diff (i've actually heard of that happening before), but i just say that as a CYA, sounds like you need another trans.

at least it's still driving!?

yes, remove that rear half of the driveshaft so you're not straining other components, like the axles and ujoints.

used transmissions usually aren't that hard to find and since they don't fail very often the prices aren't all that bad. i bought one that would fit your car (granted it was a FWD), but $150 with a warranty and only 80k or 100k miles on it.

 

Ok, thanks. That's what I figured, that the seal was really hard to get to. I will check if they put ATF in the diff, because when I got home from buying the car, I found that it had no air filter... So who knows what kind of stupid things they did.

If I could find a whole transmission that actually works for under $400, I'd be happy. The cheaper the better of course, I'm pretty much broke.

What part number(s) am I looking for on the transmission that would be correct? I'd hate to buy the wrong one, or the right one for a different year and have problems like I did with my Toronado.

There is a JDM 4EAT for sale in Ohio, with code TZ1A4ZSAAA-WA. I searched for that number, but couldn't find anything. Would it work?

 

wow, interesting previous owner.

these guys have one for $250 in Michigan:
Central Ave Auto Parts 1-800-843-7580

this one in ohio is only $250 and only has 90,000 miles on it:
1-800-252-5865

4EAT's are quite interchangeable - the biggest issue is final drive ratio, it needs to match yours. 4.44 or 4.11 are the two options, your impreza will likely be a 4.11.

 

your impreza will likely be a 4.11.

It's a Legacy Outback, according to my manual I downloaded, mine is the 4.444 final gear ratio. Here's the page, to make sure I'm not wrong about something again:

If I am right, the transmission I asked about won't work, because I did find one thread saying it has a 4.11 final drive ratio.

I did find two transmissions only 8 miles away in Southgate on car-part.com, $375 and $400. I'll have to find out more about them if I end up needing to buy a transmission, I'll know tomorrow after emptying and refilling the front diff.

 

Here is what I found out from draining the transmission and front diff fluids:

This is both of them drained, each into a 6-quart container:

Differential Fluid:

Transmission Fluid:

Both for comparison:

Actual gear oil that (as far as I know) was in the car:

(they left ~1.3 quarts in the trunk)

Actual transmission fluid color:

Also, there is some metallic goop on the diff plug, not sure if it belongs there, or if it was part of some effort to stop the seal from leaking:

So it does seem that there is contamination. The gear oil is yellow with a blue tint, and I don't have any more unused transmission fluid, but it seems darker than I remember.

I put new gear oil in, and re-used the transmission fluid, so now I'll drive it a bit and see what colors come out when I re-drain them both.

 

I drove it, but it was too dark to drain the fluids and check them. It was still the same, whining during acceleration and coasting/braking, and having torque bind. It did seem that the dead spot in acceleration was gone, but that might have been the amount of throttle I was using.

I also noticed that my right turn signal is making the CEL & turn signal light flash, and the actual turn signal bulb & right headlight. I'm looking at the wiring diagrams now to try and figure that one out...

 

No air filter ? nice.

No telling what the previous owner did to that car as far as fluids, cheap "fixes", wiring etc.

The guy might have tried to pull the dash apart to roll back the ODO and screwed up some wires or connection somewhere. Completely unfounded accusation there but, I have a huge problem with people selling things without full disclosure and, doesn't sound like he disclosed much if anything. Telling you there was no filter in it would have been a good start.

Go down under the dash [next to the fuse box]and see if anything is piggybacked off the turn signal relay. Turn them on, you'll be able to hear it clicking.

If not, if there is anything like aftermarket lights or stereo equipment, check that wiring to see where it's getting power.

 

He didn't have the car very long, or so he said, so it might have even been the person before him who messed things up. No way of knowing now, but I'll check on that.

There's no aftermarket anything that I know of.

I drained the fluids again, and it seems that there is NO CONTAMINATION. The diff oil is still the same yellow/blue/grey color, with no hint of red, and the transmission fluid looks the same color as well. I only drove it a couple miles though, let me know if that wasn't long enough and I should try it again.

Diff and trans fluid:

Color of diff oil now:

Transmission fluid:

Also, should the pan look like this, or is it dented in?

I didn't have problems with smoking at idle last night, but once I parked it and tuned it off, it did for a while.

What should I do next? Longer driving test to make sure the seal is still good? (I think it might be a good idea) Try to find out why fluid is being puked out? Anything else I need to check before taking things apart to put the duty C solenoid in?

 

NEW ODD DEVELOPMENT!

The power steering fluid is WAY overfilled, and has a tube that ends over the exhaust. It's too full to be leaking though, for how much smoke comes off the car. The exhaust is wet there though. There's another tube right next to it, which I thought was also for the power steering, but why would it have 2 drains?

That has changed too. It doesn't smoke at idle much anymore, but it gets really angry in stop-and-go traffic. I was stuck in a train of cars for probably a quarter mile trying to get around some people blocking a lane, and it was smoking a substantial amount. Other than that time and when I parked it, no smoke that I saw.

I also checked the transmission fluid when I got home, and it was at low cold, when idling after shifting through all gears. I'll have to see how much fluid is actually in it when I drain it tomorrow.

The diff is definitely making noise, the whine is there, and varies based on speed, and there is also a more metallic noise that is varied by acceleration. I'm starting to wonder if I should replace the transmission even if that seal isn't bad, unless those noises are because of the torque bind and will go away.

Ugh.

 

Tube that ends over the exhaust ? is it a tube that goes side to side [boot to boot on the rack] ? some racks have a equalizer tube to give the air in the bot somewhere to go.

Sounds like the previous owner didn't have a clue what they were doing.

As far as fluid transfer from the diff to the trans or vice versa, that would depends on the size of the leak. You can watch both and see if one drops and the other rises or if the gear oil starts to look pink.

You can try some Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer in the diff or Limited slip additive to see if that quiets down the whine enough to think about fixing the torque bind issue. I'm thinking no but ....

If it keeps whining, I'd think about getting a replacement trans/diff.

 

'Goop' on the drain plug looks like metallic debris, to me. Trannys will produce a little from metallic clutch plate wear,but that looks coarser & thicker than I'm used to seeing. If that's the differential drain plug, you've definitely got something checking out. Setting a final drive gear set up is pretty exacting (dial indicator for backlash & precise preload adjustments), I'd want to have a known teacher on hand before wading in.

 

Ok, so it sounds like I should probably replace the transmission then. Especially because I sent a text to the previous owner, who says he didn't put anything in either diff, so that trans fluid was in there for who knows how long... Why it was in there when exactly 1.3L of gear oil was sitting in the back seat, I don't know.

I checked the diff again, fluid level is exactly the same, and the fluid is the exact same color, no change over 24 hours and 20 miles of driving.

On a good note, the lighting problem was the turn signal bulb. I tried an old socket and bulb from the old headlights, and it was fine. Then I put the old bulb in the new socket, and that was fine too. Bulbs looked the same, but apparently the new one was defective somehow. It's taken care of now, and I'm not worried about it, since I didn't even know the headlights would come with bulbs and sockets.

Oh, and the tubes are from the power steering, but I couldn't see that they turned 90 degrees and then continued under the engine to wherever they go. It looked like they just ended, which obviously would make no sense. Here are some pictures:

Zoomed in:

Fluid Level: (just realized it's hard to see, it's all the way to the curve where it attaches to the cap.

In reservoir:

I'm thinking it would be a good idea to remove the excess fluid. How? Disconnect one of the hoses?

 

I'm thinking it would be a good idea to remove the excess fluid. How? Disconnect one of the hoses?

Turkey baster.

 

Ah! That would be a lot easier. Thanks.

 

goin broke

had most problems described here, subaru has been no help. add to it auto trans on my 96 legacy outback w/auto comes out of gear, while driveing along with speedo stopping. id junk it but i love the car, and in too deep now.

 

i have a 1996 subaru out back legacy with the 2.2 the transmission hard shifts to second and is binding up when pull into parking spaces or my drive way

 

i have a 96 outback legacy with the 2.2 it has a very hard shift from 1st to 2nd and has a binding feeling when turning in to parking spots or my drive way. its almost like a truck with a locker or a spool in the rear if you have any ideas i would greatly appriciate the help.

 

drain the ATF and refill it 3 times and drive around the block in between each.
the new fluid will likely eliminate the binding.

there is no fix for the hard 1-2 shift.
some of that is by design,
they sacrifice comfort for durability.
but there is a ''harder'' than normal 1-2 shift.
i have it in my 97 GT wagon (same trans as yours)
there is no easy fix,
so i live with it.


how long have you had the car?

 

Brandon, as a diagnostic test put a (any) fuse in the FWD position, see if the FWD light in the dash turns on, and see if the binding stops.