It won't be easy. In the 2015 model ('16 is probably similar), the high-beam lamp ground is directed by the DRL relay through a resistor for dimmed high-beam DRL, or straight to ground for high beam.

In DRL mode, the high-beam relay is ON, but the DRL relay selects the high-resistance path, so the bulb is dim. For night operation (headlights on), the DRL relay selects the direct to ground path, and the high-beam is controlled by the high-beam relay.

You can disable the DRL altogether by pulling the connector to the resistor pack :29:. Directing the DRL to light up something else instead of the high-beam bulb will not be easy, if it's feasible at all.

I have a '15 wiring diagram, but this looks like way more trouble than it's worth. Let me know if you're still interested.

 

It won't be easy. In the 2015 model ('16 is probably similar), the high-beam lamp ground is directed by the DRL relay through a resistor for dimmed high-beam DRL, or straight to ground for high beam.

In DRL mode, the high-beam relay is ON, but the DRL relay selects the high-resistance path, so the bulb is dim. For night operation (headlights on), the DRL relay selects the direct to ground path, and the high-beam is controlled by the high-beam relay.

You can disable the DRL altogether by pulling the connector to the resistor pack :29:. Directing the DRL to light up something else instead of the high-beam bulb will not be easy, if it's feasible at all.

I have a '15 wiring diagram, but this looks like way more trouble than it's worth. Let me know if you're still interested.

Hi, I have an electrical issue with my 2015 outback gen 5 4 cyc and am interested in viewing Wiring Diagram you mentioned. Seems fuse 26 (inside compartment) controls several areas and I'm chasing where the power drain is on this circuit. The battery goes completely dead overnight with fuse 26 installed. Removed fuse 26 and all ok. Except a few things won't work with #26 removed, things like garage door opener, dome lights, key fob to lock and probably others I have not noticed yet. This issue of power drain started suddenly, car parked in garage as usual, key fob in same place inside the house.

Thank you
gary

 

@skipw: oh I am very interested, thank you.

My goal is to find the input for the DRL resistance module and redirect it to the C lights. This way I have nominal power to the C lights, not resisted voltage, and no low-power high beam as the DRL. I don't want to ditch DRL's concept entirely. If I do it right, the C light will turn off when a blinker is activated as well.

I know there is a wiring harness sold to power the C lights separately, but it doesn't look as professional as I like and its $80 bucks!

 

I sent you a PM.

Like I said, the resistors are in series after the hi-beam bulbs, between them and ground, so the input to the resistors has already passed through the bulb.

 

Success!! I now have the LEDs as DRLs and disabled the high beams as DRLs.

The last part is not a new mod, simply remove the resister ground pack from the circuit and you no longer had high beams as DRLs but still have normal high beam functionality. The LED part was rather simple too, once I looked at the drawings long enough, thanks to @skipw for the help there.

First, a trip back in time. It has been discovered that the DRLs have a set of relays for normal operations, and a separate set for DRL operations that toggle on/off when the turn signal is demanded. This helps to improve visibility of the turning signal. Now the high beams receive their switching through the ground when in DRL mode, but have their positive leads closed (in the on position) in normal position unless the turn signal is called for on that side of the vehicle. Thus, when you splice the LED power wire to the high beam power wire, you attain the ability to run the LEDs as DRLs. Removing the resister pack enables the LEDs to be the sole DRLs as well. This allows the LED on either side of the vehicle to be disabled when the turn signal is called for.

Simple as that: Splice the LED power feed with the high beam power feed (both sides of the car) and remove the resister pack. If you are worried about the LEDs being fed from two relays, dont. The source is the same 12v source!

 

Well, I soldered everything up and tested it out. I was wrong about the DRLs turning off in conjunction with the turn signal, I must not seen it correctly on the first test. But LEDs are now my DRLs still.

 

I'd be interested in this as well....any pictures or wiring diagrams to share?

 

Following

 

Sorry for reviving this thread but I don’t have the post count to PM yet.

When you say splice the led power wire to the high beam power wire, are you talking about the high beam wire connector that comes right off the back of the housing?

Thanks in advance if you see this!

 

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