Replaced the PCV valve on my 2001 H6 yesterday, and took a few pics and notes to share with y'all. :sayinghi:
Time: 10-15 minutes (or longer if you clean the hose or clean & replace the old valve)
Tools: ratchet, 10mm socket, 9" extension, 19mm deep socket, screwdriver, long needle-nose pliers, short bungie cord
Why: Inspection and preventive maintenance.
Cost: New OEM valve cost me $12. Aftermarket is probably much cheaper. Or you can just clean & reuse the old valve, if you aren't in a hurry.
When: This job would be an absolute no-brainer when you replace the spark plugs. Also very easy if you are removing the battery.
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1) Locate PCV system
Remove engine cover (four 10mm bolts, pull back & up). PCV pipe is in the center cup of the intake manifold (dead center in the pic below). Follow it up around & down to the PCV valve on the side of the engine.
![Image]()
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2) Move window-washer reservoir
First remove two 10mm bolts:
![Image]()
Then disconnect two electrical connectors:
![Image]()
imho the connectors are the hardest part. Easier if you remove the battery first, but that would take longer, unless you need to remove the battery anyway.
My approach: Press white-connector tab with screwdriver while pulling that connector off with other hand. Pull reservoir up a bit and bungie-cord to hood hinge. Press green connector tab and lever connector apart with screwdriver. Pull reservoir up & out and shorten the bungie to hold it in place.
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3) Remove PCV valve
Squeeze & move the hose clamp with needlenose pliers. Pull the hose off by hand. Put a 19mm deep socket (hey, that's my lug nut socket!) on a 9" extension to remove the PCV valve, like this:
![Image]()
PCV hose & hole with valve removed:
![Image]()
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4) Inspect & clean valve
Here are my old & new valves, and the part number:
![Image]()
The new valve gives a short sharp rattle when I shake it. The old valve makes a very dull thunk-rattle...but the spring action is smooth when I press the plunger. Working just fine. :29:
It seems to me, these valves will never wear out, they just get dirty. I'm dropping the old one in a jar of solvent. I'll use it again next time...probably Spring 2014 when I do the plugs.
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5) Clean the PCV hose/pipe
If you have a gunky valve I think it would be a good idea to clean the hose too.
I didn't bother to clean mine, because a) I was feeling lazy, and b) the vacuum end of the valve was nice & clean, no sludge or varnish.
I did measure it though. The vacuum end of the valve below the barb is 0.395" OD. I think a length of 3/8" OD vinyl tubing would fit perfectly to ream out the PCV hose. Squirt some solvent down the tubing to clean any gunk. Bevel the end of the tubing if it gets stuck (esp. at the sharp bend over the intake manifold).
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6) Install new/clean PCV valve
No torque value in the 2001 service manual...for that matter almost no mention of this valve whatsoever :8:...so I just torqued it to feel. The new valve had longer threading on the body, so a few threads are still visible. Not a problem:
![Image]()
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That's it. Share & enjoy. And please reply with any suggestions or corrections. Thanks.
:7:
-Jeff
Time: 10-15 minutes (or longer if you clean the hose or clean & replace the old valve)
Tools: ratchet, 10mm socket, 9" extension, 19mm deep socket, screwdriver, long needle-nose pliers, short bungie cord
Why: Inspection and preventive maintenance.
Cost: New OEM valve cost me $12. Aftermarket is probably much cheaper. Or you can just clean & reuse the old valve, if you aren't in a hurry.
When: This job would be an absolute no-brainer when you replace the spark plugs. Also very easy if you are removing the battery.
--------------------------------------------------
1) Locate PCV system
Remove engine cover (four 10mm bolts, pull back & up). PCV pipe is in the center cup of the intake manifold (dead center in the pic below). Follow it up around & down to the PCV valve on the side of the engine.
--------------------------------------------------
2) Move window-washer reservoir
First remove two 10mm bolts:
Then disconnect two electrical connectors:
imho the connectors are the hardest part. Easier if you remove the battery first, but that would take longer, unless you need to remove the battery anyway.
My approach: Press white-connector tab with screwdriver while pulling that connector off with other hand. Pull reservoir up a bit and bungie-cord to hood hinge. Press green connector tab and lever connector apart with screwdriver. Pull reservoir up & out and shorten the bungie to hold it in place.
--------------------------------------------------
3) Remove PCV valve
Squeeze & move the hose clamp with needlenose pliers. Pull the hose off by hand. Put a 19mm deep socket (hey, that's my lug nut socket!) on a 9" extension to remove the PCV valve, like this:
PCV hose & hole with valve removed:
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4) Inspect & clean valve
Here are my old & new valves, and the part number:
The new valve gives a short sharp rattle when I shake it. The old valve makes a very dull thunk-rattle...but the spring action is smooth when I press the plunger. Working just fine. :29:
It seems to me, these valves will never wear out, they just get dirty. I'm dropping the old one in a jar of solvent. I'll use it again next time...probably Spring 2014 when I do the plugs.
--------------------------------------------------
5) Clean the PCV hose/pipe
If you have a gunky valve I think it would be a good idea to clean the hose too.
I didn't bother to clean mine, because a) I was feeling lazy, and b) the vacuum end of the valve was nice & clean, no sludge or varnish.
I did measure it though. The vacuum end of the valve below the barb is 0.395" OD. I think a length of 3/8" OD vinyl tubing would fit perfectly to ream out the PCV hose. Squirt some solvent down the tubing to clean any gunk. Bevel the end of the tubing if it gets stuck (esp. at the sharp bend over the intake manifold).
--------------------------------------------------
6) Install new/clean PCV valve
No torque value in the 2001 service manual...for that matter almost no mention of this valve whatsoever :8:...so I just torqued it to feel. The new valve had longer threading on the body, so a few threads are still visible. Not a problem:
--------------------------------------------------
That's it. Share & enjoy.
And please reply with any suggestions or corrections. Thanks.:7:
-Jeff
