See if this helps you out.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...k.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/33809-engine-removal-thread.html

Look in the Service manual thread if you don't have one. I know there are active link for 95-04 in there.

If all the bolts are out, probably just needs a little more persuasion ... without breaking anything of course ;]

 

A couple of times I've been flustered because I forgot the bolt near the lower starter motor nut. I've also run into problems with the alignment pegs corroding and getting stuck in the transmission bell housing. Double-check that you've removed the right number of bolts, then find some way to lever the two apart. Also make sure the torque converter doesn't stay engaged with the motor; I've had the alignment peg stay stuck before.

 

Thank you ETC and you were right about the alignment pegs karl they were what was holding me up I had to crack it apart with putty knives then worked my way up to screwdrivers that finally gave me enough play to lift the front of the engine up and down and wiggle it off the bottom 2 pegs with my engine hoist on of course anyways my engine is out and I took my flywheel off to inspect the oil separator cover and low and behold it was just starting to leak so happy this forum told me about that all I need to do now is put on some liquid gasket and screw on my new metal one then get started on removing the heads

 

I'm doing the HG and TB job on my 2001 Outback. I have my engine out but in the process the torque converter came out about 3 inches or so. I'm a little worry because I don't know if this could damage somthing in the transmission.

I hope my english is good enough to explain my self.

Thanks!

 

probably no damage but you need to make sure it is RE_SEATED correctly or you will kill your trans.

see below for ''how to''.

if you do not seat the torque converter correctly you can destroy the trans oil pump, rendering it useles.

how to seat your torqueconverter

torque converter not seated.

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Below is a picture of the first stopping point when sliding the torque converter into the transmission (assuming it had been completely removed). The first stopping point can vary a little bit, so don't be too concerned if yours stops in a slightly different spot.

As this picture shows, the torque converter is not fully seated yet, the flange which is roughly an inch away from the front mounting surface of the transmission:

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From here, I make a "fishhook" with my pointer finger on one hand and suspend the tip of the torque converter in the "hook" to hold it's weight as if it were fully seated. This helps prevent the torque converter from binding when trying to seat it (makes seating easier). Then, I spin the torque converter clockwise a few times and then counter clock wise a few times to see if it will catch to get to the second stopping point (if a few spins don't do it, I do a few more. If it's still a no go, I pull the torque converter back out and put it back in in a different position). Here's a picture of the second stopping point (easliy confused for fully seated) :

STOP #2
'second stop' pic below, still not fully seated.

If you think the torque converter is fully seated (above photo) at the second stopping point, it's NOT! It needs to go another 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

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To get the torque converter to fully seat, I spin in the opposite direction that just did that got it to seat in the 2nd stopping point. Then, when fully seated, it will look like this: (notice how close the face of the TC bolt flange is compared to the engine mating face of the trans bell housing.)

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Thank you very very much Canubaru! When I get home I'm going to try this!!!
Is there any seal, o-ring or something that I have to change before? Or just re-seat the TC

 

there is an inexpensive ''split seal'' that can go bad, but i have done 3 engine and 1 trans swaps and i have never replaced it. on the other hand i know one member of another board who was burned by not replacing the ''split ring'' and he swears he will never do another engine or trans swap with out replacing it.

but my rule of thumb is, if it was not leaking before it probably isn't leakin now.

but it is up to you.

 

So if the Torque Converter is seated correctly, can it still move freely or should it be locked in position by the transmission? I have the engine out and did the same thing by pulling out the Torque Converter . I followed these instructions but I was not sure if it should spin freely or be locked. Car is in park on ramps...

 

The torque converter will spin even when seated. Just make sure its all the way in before putting the engine against the transmission.

 

It's like cracking a safe!

 

hi guys, i made a charitable contribution to a friend and got a 30th anniv. outback with the 2.5 and a blown head gasket. i need to know if there is any chance i HAVE NOT ruined the motor. i drive it on 2 to 5 min. trips around the yard. i drained all the radiator fluid and i leave the cap off and the thermostat out so exhaust can vent freely through the radiator cap.... before doing this i changed the oil and it looked good. i don't run it long enough to overheat it (i think) and besides the clouds of smoke it runs pretty well considering. i plan on doing the head gasket soon as a learning experience but i would love it if it worked I'm pretty poor but if you can think of something to increase my odds of success i'd take any advice seriously!!!!!!

 

Seating Torque Converter

Okay - waking up an oldie but goodie thread... It's a pretty good one and I'm "pretty sure" mine is seated - but "pretty sure" isn't good enough here. Look at my pics - what do you think? I would estimate the flex plate bolt holes are real close to a full quarter inch recessed in the block and I would estimate these TC bolt holes to be maybe 3/16 outside the bell housing... In the thread it says the bolts should pull the flex plate and the TC together (they shouldn't touch till then)... --- 2nd question has to do with my 4th pic - note how the TC is close to sitting on the corners of the bell housing - I imagine that's "normal" and everything will be "centered" when the engine is mated...?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

 

I do recall that it should seat a bit closer inside the bell housing... Seems like it is out a bit too far. If you rotate it can you get it to slide in further (That's what she said!!!) Pic 4 does show that close to the bottom. Once it is attached it should be ok when bolted up. No scratchy scratchy down there, is there?

 

No - no scratches on the housing... (yet?) -- Thanks for the input...
The last clunk in was just a quarter to a half an inch... Might that indicate that it's seated?... or are the last two clunks that small?...

- anyone? - Thanks.

 

Sounds right

Can you post a photo of it. Similar to the first two above. Seems like you nailed it...

 

Can you post a photo of it. Similar to the first two above. Seems like you nailed it...

I think I got it, Thanks! I found another thread that pointed out another way to verify is looking through the hole where the starter goes... There is no room to go back any further.