A 2013 3.6r has the 5EAT—It’s not a CVT. Definitely check your transmission fluid.
Not sure about adding a transmission temperature sensor gage, but I don’t tow with my 11 3.6r 5EAT and I simply watch the coolant gauge to see how it’s doing all the time any day, usually to make sure I’m warmed up enough to make do with traffic and what not. This car ends up doing about 3,000 rpm at higher speeds anyways, but I don’t think that would be any indicator as to whether or not your wearing your car out prematurely. I would say, give your 5EAT transmission a look—it sounds like you’ve never changed it’s transmission fluid because of the misconception that it has a cvt. I would definitely do a transmission fluid change ASAP.

 

Hmmmm, Pretty sure 3,000 RPM's is 100 or more MPH in 5th with the 3.6 5EATI I(I wanna say 2800 RPM's is 100 MPH in mine) The only time my car ever has a need to go over 3000 RPM's is if I"m passing or having fun! I would say a throttle position that runs through the gears shifting a 3000 RPM's has to be close to what a 2.5 will do with the pedal to the metal!

 

Most universal ATF formulas are too thin so to be safe use genuine Subaru HP ATF or Idemitsu HP ATF - they have the correct ATF viscosity.

Could change differential fluids if it's never been done before, brake fluid change, check brake pads, engine coolant if it's time, etc.

 

Not too many years ago nearly all engines ran at around 3,000 RPM when travelling around 60 to 65 miles per hour.

Engines were “tuned” to run at this RPM which delivered optimum torque and best fuel economy.

More modern vehicles have been tuned to have higher torque at lower RPM’s therefore improving fuel economy and reducing emissions.

I doubt the 3.6 and 5EAT are working too hard at those RPM’s.

Seagrass

 

Not too many years ago nearly all engines ran at around 3,000 RPM when travelling around 60 to 65 miles per hour.

^This!

@MickC get back to us when you're holding it at 5500 for an hour straight.

 

you need to tow in 4th or lower. not recommended to tow in 5th gear (over drive) on the 5EAT, 4th is 1:1

 

I would say you're not overworking the system. It's normal to be running at a higher RPM when towing, especially uphill, to keep an engine in the best torque and horsepower range as determined by the computer. Don't forget that modern cars have so many sensors that it's pretty hard to blindly overwork an engine and drivetrain without warning. If you start getting engine or transmission temp lights, that might be another story. In general, if you are running your engine and drivetrain harder -- such as towing, dusty conditions, etc. -- it is a good habit to do more frequent inspections and fluid changes.

 

Like mom used to say... Fluids. What maintenance have you done or skipped? Towing and a long trip with a heavy load, like someone above said, all of your fluids if they have been skipped. Especially if you are going to keep the car after a few thousand more miles under load. transmission, oil, coolant, brakes and pads, differentials are all going to be under stress. This might sound silly but the transmission comment got me thinking what your tire tread depth is too....

check the AC depending on how your trip will progress...

I drove a Winnebago from LA (flew out for my Bro-in-Laws B Day) with family and friends on board to the Canyon and multi car caravan (and OMG... the Brady Bunch special did such a disservice to it.. I was all blase and then pow between the eyes... who knew? Stunning...) but I digress. We crossed part of the Mojave and the rear AC gave out.

There are stretches in the world (and right here in the US) that are still lonely, hot, dry, steep, and long and potentially dangerous.

Enjoy, but check ALL the basics. And pack water--Mom meant ALL fluids.

 

The owners manual has some good information regarding trailer towing. It appears your trailer load is within the 3,000lb towing limit of the 3.6. However the manual states trailer weights over 1,000lbs require trailer brakes. Does the tear drop trailer have brakes? If not that would be a concern. As for the engine speed it's well below the 6,500 RPM redline and not excessively high given the weight being towed.

I'd review the details in the owners manual to ensure you're not exceeding any limits. From the information you've provided it seems you're OK (assuming the trailer has brakes).

 

Yep, the teardrop trailer comes with a wireless brake controller.

 

If you have good oil in the crankcase, just keep an eye on the engine temperature. That's it.
Excess heat will cause the oil to break down and lose its ability to lubricate. Good quality oil can withstand some abuse. Synthetic oils are really good at holding up.

For the situation you described I wouldn't even worry about adding an extra transmission oil cooler. If you were trying to make that run in the heat of full summer then it would be worth considering.

 

Here's a pic of the setup.

 

 

That's awesome! But, I don't get why you would think going past 3k rpm would be pushing it? That engine makes it's peak power at 6k rpm and peak torque at 4400. It's designed to run harder.

The issue you are going to run into is controlling that weight. I bet you're at or past GVWR for the car when hitched up to the trailer. But you said it has trailer brakes, so that's good.

Keep doing you - that's an really cool setup and probably the best "tow rig" Subaru has ever made.

 

That's awesome! But, I don't get why you would think going past 3k rpm would be pushing it? That engine makes it's peak power at 6k rpm and peak torque at 4400. It's designed to run harder.

The issue you are going to run into is controlling that weight. I bet you're at or past GVWR for the car when hitched up to the trailer. But you said it has trailer brakes, so that's good.

Keep doing you - that's an really cool setup and probably the best "tow rig" Subaru has ever made.

So far, I'm comfortable (experience and knowledge) of doing this for 200 mile trips. Just not sure when we're driving 700-900 miles a day and kinda in the middle of nowhere (like Utah and Nevada).

 

On this same note, has anyone ever been to Point Sublime at Grand Canyon North Rim (by the way of Point Sublime Trail)? Plan on doing this in late May with the current setup. Thoughts?

 

Don't worry about the rpm. Engine is robust and has no issues with this load. Looks like you could benefit from some rallitek rear overload springs coupled with the bilsteins and might consider a mild rear sway bar upgrade.

 

Keep your fluids good and cool and you should be just fine.

 

Check your weight on the tow ball. Most people forget about this, they only conciser the pulled weight. Trailers with heavy toolboxes on the bar stuffed to the gunnels sure add up. You look a little heavy in the rear end (something you never ever say to the wife).

 

the answer isn't straightforward, since revving your engine to 3k while in park will certainly differ revving 3k climbing a hill! what i'm getting at is the engine load at a given moment. there are low load moments when cruising down the highway but dead starts the engine sees a higher load.

i agree to get a scangauge tool to show OBD in real time. i believe one of the parameters is engine load in %. it would be a good idea to monitor the trans temperatures too as already stated!

 

"How Do I Know If I'm Pushing My 3.6R Too Hard"

The tires will slip, usually with a bit of audible howl (at least on pavement). If the front lets go first, slow down a bit. If the rear, uh, slow down a bit?

 

Ok...where to start on this one. First a lot of these suggestions are not getting you to the right method. You need to learn how to drive a vehicle with a load that is at its limit. Don't just put it in Drive and let the transmission shift. Going in and out of 5th and 4th will heat that transmission up and will reduce its life. You also can't drive it by trying to maintain high speeds. Slow down. When you get to an up hill or your RPMs are going down manually shift into a lower gear and then hold an RPM until you get back on a flat and then upshift to the higher gear. Let the engine do the work (3,000) is fine and just hold it there until the road changes. You need to think like a truck driver. Select a lower gear and take your time. You are carrying a heavy load and need to baby that 3.6. On some of the hills between Kingman and Flagstaff you should be in the right lane and geared down doing about 45 at the most. My Ford van pulling a trailer and race car will be down to 40 mph.
On another note: I worked for Grand National Park for 14 years...leave your trailer at the campground on the North Rim and drive to Point Sublime with just the Outback. Also don't drive out to Cape Royal with your trailer either since the road is narrow.

 

I can’t imagine that thing having any issues at 3000 rpm, even for extended periods of time. I have a 2006 outback with the 2.5/4EAT and tow an 1100lb utility trailer with it on occasion. Unladen, the car runs at 3000rpm at 75 mph (no trailer/cargo, only me). With the trailer, on certain hills, in automatic mode, the car has down shifted into 2nd gear at 65 mph, putting the car right to redline. Apart from that, I’ve had no issues. I would imagine the larger engine in your car should be fine. If you are towing in hot temperatures closer to the cars weight limit, I would imagine you could install auxiliary coolers for the transmission and oil. Also, as others have mentioned, using sport shift to keep the car from changing gear is a very good idea.

 

60mph on the flat my 3.6 is pulling under 2k... if yours is pulling 3k... I would say there is an issue with something...
even my old gen2 H6 would only be pulling 2200rpm with my “big trailer and a vanagon rolling shell on it at 60mph... towed a lot with that and never an issue...
So far haven’t towed with the 3.6, but will be and can only look forward to it...
here, towing capacity is rated at 2000kgs, 4400lbs...
trailer nose weight should never be more than 40-50kgs... but we have a totally different approach to towing this side of the world...

 

well has it gone boom yet?