Subaru Outback Forums banner
21 - 40 of 78 Posts
Discussion starter · #21 · (Edited)
Once again . . . just stuffing stuff here to be able to find later . . . . .

CRUSH WASHER ORIENTATION
2022 Subaru Outback Touring XT - 2.4L Turbo
Engine Oil Pan Drain Plug Gasket. Quantity Required: 1.

Part Number: 803916010
Price - $1.67 Each​
Image
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I am always interested in the "your tire pressure needs to be set higher in cold temperatures. Visions of the old Ideal Gas Law come to mind.

Today I set out to drive about 110 miles to and from . . . . I always keep my tires at 33 PSI Rear and 35 PSI Front, straight from the Subaru manual and off the door plate. I have a fairly beefy compressor and one of those "set the pressure" and poof air hoses at the garage door, so I set them right on once or twice a week . . . takes about 60 seconds.

I've had folks drone on about increasing their tire pressures in the winter to compensate for the color temperature of the air in the tires.

But . . . It seems to me that the air is colder . . . only until you get the tire in motion and the flexing, in pretty much every direction, causes the tires to heat up. Granted they likely never approach summer temps but I was curious . . . here are the temps, the times and the pressures I saw today.

I'll try to get these in order . . . but, you get the idea.
Image


Image


Image
 
I am always interested in the "your tire pressure needs to be set higher in cold temperatures. Visions of the old Ideal Gas Law come to mind.
I don't think you need to set higher pressures in cold temperatures, you just need to put in more air to achieve the same pressures in cold temperatures
 
I found you mentioning of a Macan very interesting. The Porsche crowd will probably disown me but when we bought my Wife's Crosstrek Premium I had a Cayenne S. I often wondered who benchmarked who. There were many similarities between my Cayenne S and the Crosstrek other than the horsepower in driving dynamics and safety features. Both car's layout are very intuitive. Now that I have an Outback 3.6R Touring the similarities are even greater. I ended up selling the Cayenne. The out of warranty repairs were significant and very costly. Good thread thx for sharing.
 
Discussion starter · #27 · (Edited)
you just need to put in more air to achieve the same pressures in cold temperatures
I disagree. (( NOTE - I subsequently changed this after other members posted information and I did some reading and studying. I was WRONG - See Post 31 below))

As you can see . . . .I left with the pressure 2 PSI below the target spec pressure. After diving a bit the pressure was actually over on the rear (34 psi and 35 psi . . Subaru spec is 33 psi). Had I added 2 psi, to get the the spec 33 psi, when I left I'd have quickly exceeded recommended pressure. I would not have wanted over inflated tires, with the diminished amount of tread on the road, when driving on snow and ice.

Ribber flex a lot and that flexing causes heat, actually quite a bit . . . enough, in the TP = V Ideal Gas Equation, to bring the tires up to proper pressure when driving on snow in a 20F day.

This topic is kind of like the old contact patch (for motorcycles) and oil change intervals (my oil manufacture recommends 15,000 like the Corvette and Porsche did) . . in that lots of folks have different opinions. I don't own or drive their cars so I am not prescribing this . . . . just sharing my opinion and actual results from a 100 mile drive in 20F temperature on snow and ice and how much it increased my tire pressure.

All tire pressures increased about 4 PSI while driving on this.


Image
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
The Porsche crowd will probably disown
Don't feel bad . . . the tipping point for me was paying $4,000 when a headlight needed to be replaced and my ebbing enthusiasm for expensive (about $500) oil changes . . . my Outback had the oil changed for $35 yesterday . . .I provide the oil, filter, crush washed and Blackstone test kit.

I ordered an Outback Touring XT with every option Subaru sells and when it arrived 8 weeks later I drove the Macan in . . . left with a paid for $44,000 Outback and a pile of cash. I enjoy ribbing the Porsche folks about things like heated and cooled seat, Torque Vectoring, the great remote app on my phone that allows me to set about everything (Porsche can lock the doors and fold the miters in . . that's it . .no unlock ) and acoustically insulated glass . . . all of which are expensive options in the Macan. We bought 2 top of the line Audis (an eTron rocket ship and an S5 convertible the same week the Outback was delivered and it I want/need performance . . . I am good to go.

For utility the Outback is without peer . . . . it also excels, with the Bilzzaks on snow. The Subaru is much better in snow than my F-250 Super Duty Diesel.
 
I disagree.

As you can see . . . .I left with the pressure 2 PSI below the target spec pressure. After diving a bit the pressure was actually over on the rear (34 psi and 35 psi . . Subaru spec is 33 psi). Had I added 2 psi, to get the the spec 33 psi, when I left I'd have quickly exceeded recommended pressure. I would not have wanted over inflated tires, with the diminished amount of tread on the road, when driving on snow and ice.

Ribber flex a lot and that flexing causes heat, actually quite a bit . . . enough, in the TP = V Ideal Gas Equation, to bring the tires up to proper pressure when driving on snow in a 20F day.

This topic is kind of like the old contact patch (for motorcycles) and oil change intervals (my oil manufacture recommends 15,000 like the Corvette and Porsche did) . . in that lots of folks have different opinions. I don't own or drive their cars so I am not prescribing this . . . . just sharing my opinion and actual results from a 100 mile drive in 20F temperature on snow and ice and how much it increased my tire pressure.

All tire pressures increased about 4 PSI while driving on this.


View attachment 560462
The pressures are supposed to be higher when being driven. The set points are when cold. I don't know what you mean by "target set pressure" other than what the pressure should read when tyres are cold.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
I've done some quick looking and I think you are right and I am wrong. In fact, it was pretty easy to find . . . one of my motorcycle comrades has written on it and made the matter fairly simple on his home website.

See if this makes sense . . .

 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
MILEAGE: 17,880

Just duplicating my post in a tire thread to capture the historical information here.

I just purchased my first set of Michelin CC2's and will likely put them on today to replace my Blizzak winter tries and wheels.

My reason for selecting them was that they have nothing but rave reviews from all the Outback owners, in a variety of driving conditions, who have used them. They also have the highest review rating that Tire Rack appears to have posted . . . . garnering a rating of EXCELLENT in every category.

I can provide no personal experience at this point but I live the the Hudson Valley, in an areas known for twisty roads that are great fun to drive and I'm eager to get them scrubbed and broken in and see how they perform. I'm confident. The Outback is the first Non-Porsche I have owned since living here and I'm eager to see how it handles with the Michelins.

I'm ditching the O.E.M. tires that were marginal at best.

Read the SUBARU OUTBACK specifically reviews and you'll see why I went with this Michelin.

https://www.tirerack.com/survey/SurveyComments.jsp?&category=tire&additionalComments=y&commentStatus=P&tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=CrossClimate2&fromTireDetail=true&partnum=26HR8CC2&tirePageLocQty=&partnum=26HR8CC2

Image
 
MILEAGE: 17,880

Just duplicating my post in a tire thread to capture the historical information here.

I just purchased my first set of Michelin CC2's and will likely put them on today to replace my Blizzak winter tries and wheels.

My reason for selecting them was that they have nothing but rave reviews from all the Outback owners, in a variety of driving conditions, who have used them. They also have the highest review rating that Tire Rack appears to have posted . . . . garnering a rating of EXCELLENT in every category.

I can provide no personal experience at this point but I live the the Hudson Valley, in an areas known for twisty roads that are great fun to drive and I'm eager to get them scrubbed and broken in and see how they perform. I'm confident. The Outback is the first Non-Porsche I have owned since living here and I'm eager to see how it handles with the Michelins.

I'm ditching the O.E.M. tires that were marginal at best.

Read the SUBARU OUTBACK specifically reviews and you'll see why I went with this Michelin.

https://www.tirerack.com/survey/SurveyComments.jsp?&category=tire&additionalComments=y&commentStatus=P&tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=CrossClimate2&fromTireDetail=true&partnum=26HR8CC2&tirePageLocQty=&partnum=26HR8CC2

View attachment 563980
They definitely seem to be the tire of choice. I'll be interested in your thoughts in another 30-40K miles as that's when they reportedly start to get noisy. Keep a close eye on inner wear and your alignment since you can't cross rotate.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Great advice . . . I'll note the 30,000 mile mark and try to be alert for the noise. Thus far, impressively quiet. Your's is also a good reminder to periodically have alignment checked and adjusted as necessary.

Thank you
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
4th Service today

Oil, filter & new crush washer

All inspected items fine.

The front brakes are about 40%. Rear will get replaced at next service.

Oil off for analysis.

All is well.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
why bother with oil analysis? has that ever really helped someone?
Great question . . . .

  • CURIOSITY - interesting to watch the phases an engine goes through.
  • NOSTALGIA - I spent 17 years doing high performance Sportbike development, test riding and motor development. I've written previously about when were developing a new motor with a company in Europe. Filled it with oil , ran it for 30 minutes to warm it up, shut it down, drained the oil, started it and pinned the throttle at redline for 5 hours. These new oils are amazing.
  • HUMOR - The comments the guys from the lab write are hilarious. They are obviously having way too much fun in their job.
  • HABIT - I've got 8 cars and have done it every oil change with most of them. The 2 leased 2022 Audis I could care less about, but the old MG, the Super Duty, the Porsche and the Subaru . . . each have an element of pure habit.
  • I'M CHEAP - A couple of the. cars have engines that are scary expensive. If there is something, even a factory anomaly, I'd prefer to know pre-warranty expiration.
Bottom line . . . in answer to your question . . . there is no GOOD reason. . . . particularly in a dead reliable inexpensive car like the Outback. Outbacks that go 200,000 - 300,000 miles with hardly any maintenance are not uncommon. Neighbor woman has a Crosstrek with 220,000 miles on it that is in fabulous condition. She bought it because she has a long to/from drive to the office daily and the Subaru is reliable in all types of weather and cheap to maintain.

The thing that initially drew to me Subaru, after driving a friends 2000 Outback, was how incredibly well engineered and thought out they were. They are inexpensive to buy and to maintain and come with standard options that added about $9,000 to my 2019 Porsche.

So the answer is . .. . . that there is no good reason. I am a nut about guitars and cars and make so many irrational decisions that in my sunset years I simply find myself entertained with little/no reason to change. I am hard headed.

:)
 
21 - 40 of 78 Posts