[walker]

I'll play around with it. I just want to get this thing up and running like stock. I'm going to add in the cooler components 1 at a time now to get a victory now. Too frustrating....
I messed something up just now. I thought I was smart borrowing 12v from one of my unused starlink harness to power the mic. I just realized this is a 5v device.....it is, right?

yes.

 

[MikeD666]

Well I lowered my goal, I'm done for the day. Lots of user error so far. Now that I got the screen removed, there is vertical adjustment on these plastic tabs. Mine was spot on already. Forward and back adjustment actually exist too, about a quarter inch. This also allows me to keep the main unit mounted in the stock bracket. See pics. I found a 5v source that goes to the climate controls that goes on with key. I'm not sure if that is safe to draw current from, hoping for a better solution to keep the stock mic running. I'm curious where others mount their antennas. I would like to also add a wifi adapter that fits whatever barrel is on this harness. It looks like the center grill where a speaker likely goes on the HK system is a good spot for something. Its just empty in my car.

edit, i just face palmed - there are 3 usbs on this thing. certainly i can borrow 5v from there. Still would like to know if there is an alternative source.

screen removed, just pulls off

screen installed with new adjustment....in hindsight it would have to come off to install those mounting screws above....never got that far

display side tabs and vertical adjustment

5v on 2nd pin from upper right, climate control plug

flip the receiving side of the yellow tab to get back a quarter inch or so. bottom ones won't fit. top is plenty sturdy along with side tabs. alternatively, probably works fine without these on at all

before/after flip

non HK cubby, GPS, wifi, 4g antenna?

 

[walker]

well there ya go.

I wouldn't think the mic would draw much power, so not sure it would matter where you pulled that from. A USB source would certainly have more than enough.

 

[Ben78]

GPS

I mounted mine here (note RHD Aussie vehicle)

 

[MikeD666]

Joying responded, but misinterpreted the AMP wire question and wants pictures of the adjustment. I'm past the adjustment stage but will follow up with more specific pictures for the wire.

I threw it together this morning so my wife could take the car, bare minimum features - radio antenna/speakers/reverse camera only. Reverse camera works like stock, missing lines, probably a setting. The image is slightly stuttery and pixelated. I wonder if that is because the screen is probably a higher rez and frame rate. Like watching SD formatted content on HD tv.

I don't know how much I'll get into today. I would like to map buttons and play with that camera setting. I found a forum somewhere where a guy soldered a better wifi antenna in....but there were no resources and pics weren't clear. I'm dissapointed at the moment with the wifi strength I was receiving from my house while in the driveway. Haven't played with it on the phone.

 

[MikeD666]

Soooo many options in the menus. Yet, I cannot figure out how to change the time. Getting backup lines on my camera was as simple as ticking a box. Android auto working as expected (wireless). Speakers all fade correctly based on sound location. I cannot get my steering wheel buttons to be recognized during the mapping process.

 

[MikeD666]

There is a "factory" menu within the settings that is locked out. I found from another post, 8888 got me in. There are CAN BUS settings with brands in the menu that look like they need to be set. I've tried every one of them, no luck with the buttons. There was some config that read out when you pushed steering wheel buttons. I got feedback from everything but voice command, and both phone hangup/answer.
Since this will be taken out frequently for now, I ended up taking out some of the clips that I complained about not having enough earlier. I removed the two middle ones from the top vent cover so it will not go into the cheaper plastic of the new bezel. Also, if clips come off of your removable pieces, grab them out of the holes they stick before they fall deeper into the cavaties. I lost one this way, but now I have spares. You will find that if the clips are seated on the stub of the removable part, rather than the hole, they snap in place much better.
Radio gain was decreased from 10 to 3 on all speakers (4 speakers?). Changed speakers to 4.0 vs stock 6.1. 10-15 is a comfortable volume now and I can max out the volume without sounding like crap. It was much too loud previous.
what brand is this canbus? There is nothing with a JY acrynom within the menu :/

 

[walker]

JY probably stands for Joying.

 

[Ben78]

I don't recall having any issues setting up the buttons with mine, I'll take a look at the menus later today.

Regarding the WiFi, I use the Tasker app on my phone to establish a hotspot when it connects to my headunit via bluetooth (and turn it off when it disconnects). It is virtually seamless and I always have great WiFi data strength from my phone.
I also paid for Car Launcher Pro app which replaces the stock joying interface with something that is very customisable. My wallpaper is live google maps, there is a column of frequently used apps such as spotify, torque, maps etc. Current song playing, weather, speed and so on. I'll grab a photo of what it looks like.

Also, once you have everything working how you like, go into play store on the headunit and turn off updates. I have another android headunit in another car that constantly gets broken by app updates and I have to find an older apk to install to get them working again.

 

[MikeD666]

JY probably stands for Joying.

I missed that. Probably does.

I don't recall having any issues setting up the buttons with mine, I'll take a look at the menus later today.

...I'll grab a photo of what it looks like.

...turn off updates

thanks, and great advice

 

[Ben78]

Settings - Common - Key to Learn

SteeringWheel keys learn

Select the function you want to map, then the button on the steering wheel. Once complete, save the setting

 

[MikeD666]

Well, I'm growing frustrated with the Joying communication. It's almost like they are just typing me stuff and ignoring 100% of the substance in my email. I'm still trying to figure out the stray "AMP" wire. I'm also trying to get the correct canbus decoder setting in the factory menu.

@Ben78 I like the homescreen, looks nice.
I am in the same menu for the button mapping, but do you know your settings on the car model in the factory menu? I'm doubtful we have the same decoder but just curious. Mine was null by default, but none of the options seem to make a difference.

 

[Ben78]

Sorry, mine is just null too

Bonus pic is my vertical mount control box.

 

[MikeD666]

@Ben78
That actually looks pretty good mounted that direction too. Thanks for the setting info. I think my fate is in Joying's hands.

 

[Ben78]

I'm still trying to figure out the stray "AMP" wire.

Amp wire on a head unit is usually for an external amp power control, it turns the external amp on/off with the car. Won't need to be connected if you don't have an external amp.

So when you go to the "SteeringWheel keys learn" page, what do you see?

 

[MikeD666]

Amp wire on a head unit is usually for an external amp power control, it turns the external amp on/off with the car. Won't need to be connected if you don't have an external amp.

So when you go to the "SteeringWheel keys learn" page, what do you see?

The steering wheel learn page looks the same, but none of the buttons map. I don't even get feedback that a button was physically pushed when in that menu.

So this wire is labeled "AMP" on the harness, but it actually connects to connector i87 pin 9. This is CAN+ (pin 10 is CAN-) on the vehicle. It just occured to me to see if the other end pulled away from a pin. I'll follow it to where pin 10 wire goes and see if there is a pin with no wire. I hope that this is the whole issue.

 

[MikeD666]

Well, there is nothing in pin 10 at all. No such luck

 

[MikeD666]

My last response from Joying indicated I need the "KEY" and "CAN OUT" connected. These were in fact connected from factory. I swapped them with "CAN IN/OUT" after reading several post here reading that was what needed to be done....oh well.

I (re)connected these, and also left everything on null vehicle setting wise as also indicated in the same email. Now when programming the keys, it is as if there is a button being automatically pressed repeatedly. It immediately binds with whatever selection I make (volume up), and then continues to repeat the input maxing out volume in this case. To clarify, this may not actually be the volume up key, it just happened to be the mapping I chose. I have no idea what input is being repeated. It then times out any input at all after about a minute of this behavior, and I have to pull power to try again. I can no longer select any input at that point as it shuts something down. I'm pulling the battery connection because its easier than getting behind the radio. I can't find a power cycle on this device!

Now to get that point accross via email to Joying. This seems like a problem with the decoder to me, unless there is another vehicle setting to chose. Perhaps I sent an innapropriate voltage to the unit when trying to figure out my vehicle type. I wish there were some clear instructions surrounding this setup that came with the unit. I'll update after tomorrow's email unless I can think of anything.

 

[Rymar]

Here is the schematic for the "satellite switch" (really the streering wheel buttons), from the Gen5 FSM:

It takes 3 wires in total for the switch connections: 1 common ground connection at i87-23 on the roll connector, and then 2 separate sense lines. They are listed this way in the INFOTAINMENT section of the FSM:

Since i87-23 is shown as "GND", there must be pullup resistors internal to the OEM audio unit, probably to +5V, on each of the "SW1+" and "SW2+" signals. Is there an option for this on the Joying unit? As various buttons are pressed, the voltage at i82-22 or i87-23 will drop, as more current flows to ground.

You should be able to use a voltmeter, and see the voltages at i87-22 and i87-23 change as buttons are pressed. If both pins read as 0V, then there is no pullup resistor enabled, or the option doesn't exist in the Joying unit.

Or maybe i87-23 is not connected to ground?

 

[walker]

the circuit should show some voltage - whatever it is - between 21-23, and 21-22.

The test for the switches is to measure the resistance, each function has a specific value you look for - and yes, this would be a different voltage if you were measuring volts.

The important thing to note is that there is a difference between a set of 2015-2017 steering wheel switches, and a set of 2018-2019 steering wheel switches. Not sure how that decoder maps between a subaru legacy/outback with the earlier vs the later switches.

That is a selection on their website - it asks which years, and correctly lists 2015-2017 or 2018-2019.

You can see the difference in the values below..

2018/2019 switches:

2015-2017 switches: