There is a known potential issue with the drivers side window switch...

 

Wow. Thank you. I have printed the TSB and will take it with me to the dealer.

 

The TSB says to change the switch, not just shake it vigorously. He did a band-aid not a repair. I'd complain to the dealership and to Subaru of America.

 

I have seen “wiggle tests” when you are looking for a short, but not as a fix for this. Sometimes unplugging and reseating connectors can fix a problem. If the problem comes back it wasn’t a permanent fix and then it’s time for another solution.

 

So glad I found this thread. This is happening on my wife's 2017. My 2017 switch is still working.

 

Nice. Oddly, the switch on my Outback was well served by the dealer's wiggling, for nearly a year. It has quit working again. So: $250 deductible under the extended warranty, or $100 for the part and do it myself?

 

I have run into a part number dilemma for this window switch. (Life is full of dilemmas, and this is one of them.) TSB 07-152-19R, issued 05/02/19 and revised 07/12/19 calls for replacement part number 83071AL37C for the front right door switch. BUT, the part number for the 2017 Outback right door switch listed at Subaru Online Parts dot com today (8-4-2022) is 83071AL17D. (Got this so far? The TSB is provided by another member several posts above.)

The TSB shows Part Number 83071AL17C as fitting the 2015 Outback, NOT the 2017. (The key commonality here is the "17" portion in the part number. I am, uggh, assuming that D means an update, but who knows. And it's not common with the part number for the 2017 listed by the TSB.

I am really confused as to what part number is correct. Do I use the part number from the 2019 TSB? Or do I use the part number, looked up today, from Subaru Online parts? Pictures may help sort this out. At about $75 delivered, it will cost less than the $200 cost under my extended warranty. That's if I get the right part! Thank you to everyone!

This picture is an excerpt from the 2019 TSB.

This picture is also an excerpt from the top of page 2 of the TSB.

 

The one with D is the correct part - looking at Subaru's own parts website, it supersedes (replaces) the others, and in the "what this fits" tab it fits your car.

83071AL17D - Switch P W. Window - Genuine Subaru Part

Genuine Subaru Part # 83071AL17D (83071AL17A, 83071AL17B, 83071AL17C) - Switch P W. Window

parts.subaru.com

 

Thank you, Silver Onyx. The probnlem I am having is that the passenger window won't roll down using either the passenger or driver door switch. It appears that the problem may be with the driver door switch. When the dealer did the "fiercely wiggle the switch" fix last year, he did it on the passenger side. Which switch should I be looking at replacing? Left? Right? Both?

 

I'm not so well versed in the window switch wiring that I can say whether one switch influences the other, so I don't know. @plain OM would know.

Absent anyone able to tell you definitively I'd buy both switches, change only the passenger side, and if that doesn't fix it, change the other side as well.

Meanwhile, if the door panels are off, I'd inspect the window regulator to see if anything looks amiss. You can test the switch with the door panel still off to at least see if the motor attempts to move or the mechanism seems stuck for some other reason. Sometimes the window regulator, which I believe has two attachment points to the door glass, has one side that detaches and it will bind the window in the track.

 

All three passenger door window switches and the corresponding master switch on the driver door are interconnected. In addition, the three passenger window controls are dependent on the lock/unlock switch at the driver door to be in the unlock position and working.

Attached is a sample page of the wiring diagram for the front passenger door. In the diagram the upper switch is the driver door switch for the front passenger window, and the lower switch is the one on the front passenger door itself. Power comes in at 1a(B) at the top left, and 1a(C) at the left (separate fuses).

When the passenger door switch is set to the UP position, it connects the power coming in on the green wire from 1a(C) through one interior UP contact (horizontal line) to the purple wire below going to the motor. The other side of the motor, the red wire, goes into the switch and connects, via the other interior UP contact to the gray wire that goes up (over across the car!) to the driver door switch.

The driver door switch is, and has to be, at OFF for the window to work. In this example, the gray wire is connected through the interior OFF contact to the wire below that goes to 1a(A) at the left. Although not shown, 1a(A) goes to the window lock/unlock switch on the driver door, and through it to a ground, completing the circuit from the power source 1a(C) through the motor to ground.

If any of the switch contacts in this circuit is bad, or the lock/unlock switch is at lock, the circuit is broken and the motor won't run.

This is the same for all three passenger windows.

The driver door switches for the passenger doors works the same; it gets power from 1a(B), and conveys it through the passenger door switch (in the OFF position) to the motor. From the motor, the circuit through the door switch and the driver door switch has to be completed to the lock/unlock switch and ground.

This applies to all three passenger windows, and for both UP and DOWN operation.