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Timing cover removal EB30. DIY option..??

582 views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  seagrass  
#1 ·
Hey fellers. My regular mech informs me I have a pretty decent oil leak from the timing cover on my '03 OB EB30. He reckons around AU$1500 to remove and reseal.
Apparently its got to be done for 'pink slip' registration inspection due end of April.

Is this a job that a rank amateur with two left thumbs could manage? I really can't afford the cost, so serious question.

I had a look on YT and there's one vid showing what appears to be an EB30 TC removal.

Has anyone done this and could offer some serious advice?

Apparently there are something like 50 fasteners to remove. What tool is required to remove them? Do they need to be replaced, or can they be re-used? Do they need to be torqued, and to what value and with what implement? The fasteners look to be some kind of knurled head with what looks like an Allen key hex drive or similar... How do you torque these..? Can I get an adapter for my regular 1/2" drive torque wrench?

Any tips on what has to be removed, order of removal etc?

Also, in the vid on YT it shows the OEM placement for sections of sealant goop are not continuous. Like it's a bit here, a bit there, but not one continuous bead all the way round. Is it better to do the OEM version or do a continuous bead all round?

And what's the best/optimum sealant..??

Any tricks of the trade, or potential effups to watch out for?

Do the bolts sheer, or strip threads..?? I'm guessing with 50 of them one is bound to be a ******* to remove....

Any vids you may know of that I might not have found, for instruction, enlightenment or just plain 'how to' would be appreciated.
 
#2 ·
Ugh. Check your PM. Think you'd want a 3/8" TW. Ugh.

Considered degreaser and a power washer? Guess it depends how bad the leak.

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#3 ·
Your 1/2 inch torque wrench will not have a low enough setting to torque the bolts.

They are Allen headed cap screws which you can reuse BUT they will be difficult to remove and most times the Allen head strips out. The easy way is to hammer a small socket onto the head of the cap screw (9mm from memory) and then remove with a normal ratchet wrench or cordless battery impact wrench.

I also think you should simply degrease the whole engine and then take it to another workshop for your rego inspection. Once the inspection is passed that gives you more time to get the work done and time to save for the tools to do the work.

Seagrass
 
#4 ·
Thanks mate. I'm looking on eBsy at torque wrenches, like they are for bikes, 2-25Nm or whatever. Prices vary from $14 (LOL) to $35.50 for a dodgy Chinese digital, or $49 for a manual click screw type 1/4" drive.
Think that might be ok..??
Also what size is the Allen key as I don't have one that could be used in a socket, only the old fashioned L-shaped ones....so will need to invest in a good quality one of those too, I'm guessing.
Is it worth hittingthe head of each bolt with a drift to maybe shock it loose...??? Or is this dangerous on this job..??
 
#5 · (Edited)
I think you missed what I was trying to say.

You do NOT use an Allen key.

Use a six sided socket (from memory 9mm) and hammer it onto the head of the Allen headed cap screw.

Seagrass
 
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#6 ·
Ahh. Okay. I did misunderstand. I thought you meant "try with the Allen key if that doesn't work THEN use the socket method".

You're actually saying don't waste my time at all with the Allen keys, just go straight for the socket..??

And can you reccommend a sealant, and comment on whether this should be done in short dabs as per the Manual or done right the way round..???