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USDM H6 to JDM H6 swap resource thread

12K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  thaxman  
#1 ·
-SUMMARY-
3.0 USDM to 3.0 JDM engine swap discussion and guides
For my 1000th post here, and in the spirit of other swap threads in this forum, this is both my own build/progress thread, and intended to serve as a table of contents thread for other's threads for reference, and for listing posts of all the people who are knowledgeable on the subject matter.

-INTRODUCTION-

For the Subaru Outback, rough estimates of this generation's sales figures in the US put us at about 300,000 to 330,000 units in circulation. And a guess of about 15% of those being H6 3.0 engines is around 35,000 or so cars with this engine between VDC, LL BEAN, and plain 3.0, which makes this a fairly rare and unique car across North America.

The primary reason to perform an engine replacement instead of a repair is the time/money cost of the labor intensive repair process of various components on the H6. Oftentimes it will result in engine removal as a requirement anyways. At the point of going through effort of removal, it may be a better use of time and resources to simply source a better engine than your current one. Ideally it would not only not need the same repair, but also have fewer miles of use on it.

But seeing as how we're talking about a car whos configuration has less than 40,000 units in the US market and that it is approaching 20 years very quickly, finding ideal engines that have been pulled from US cars from the same generation is starting to get downright annoying, let alone ones that have not been used up themselves.

So this thread is dedicated to the other possible alternative; sourcing of a JDM engine from Japan through an engine importer.
There are many available engines to import from Japan for cars. There are various reasons as to why this is, but the main things to note are the engines are 10 years and older that oftentimes have 60,000 miles or less on them, and cost often less than $1100 including freight--drop shipping. The engine used in the Japanese Legacy and Outback equivalent is interchangeable with little modification (... a couple of sensors, and the power brake line and the pedals are on the other side in japan. More details will be in these posts) so these engines are the most ideal for a nearly direct replacement.
 
#2 · (Edited)
~Feel free to post/quote suggested changes and edits~


CAUSES FOR THE SWAP
A certain group of engine repairs, mostly that require engine removal, are of common opinion to consider simply swapping in a JDM engine.

Internal headgasket failure (where the headgasket is leaking between engine cavities)

Piston/ring/rod failure

Timing chain failure

flood/natural disaster damage, fire loss

ENGINE SHOPPING
For the 2001-2004 6 cylinder engines, you can most easily use JDM engines from the same years. Newer engines from other generations will physically work, but require more time investment than the ones from like-model years to convert to the older chassis and its older electrical components. An easy visual inspection of the engine can determine if you are looking at a newer H6. The 6 intake manifold pipes on the top of the engine are metal from earlier years, and black plastic on later years. The transmission from the Japanese car is not needed for the swap.

The rest of this is more generalised advice for those shopping for engines online remotely. A vendor should be willing to take pictures that you want if you call them, so if you need to see something specific about the engine, they should not put up a fight. If they do, move on. However, they won't do any disassembly as it usually breaks their warranty with whatever company they harvested the engine from.(C.A:: A reputable shop should either have done or be willing to do a compression test on the engine as well. This allows both parties to avoid a bad product changing hands. Make sure to thoroughly read and ask about their support/warranty policies in place.)

After that, you're going to be left with visual inspections. Engines should not be rusty. Surface rust indicates a donor car that had environmental moisture or corrosive material problem (coolant), or less than ideal storage of the engine. Be careful of rusty pulley wheels, belt cover, or anything rusty on the lower half of the engine line. A bit of rust can be corrected, but move on if larger than dime size corrosion has popped up in precarious places.

The engine harvester is going to simply cut hoses and electrical connections to the chassis that interfere with rapid engine removal. Seeing these cut will be normal. Seeing an engine component's wiring cut is not, so inspect the spark plug coil leads, the various ground straps, and any loose wires where a connector should be.

SUPPLEMENTAL PARTS SHOPPING

This swap requires you to break loose exhaust components, so you will likely need exhaust manifold gaskets and replacing the (likely) rusty exhaust bolts should be expected too. You should also do the intake gasket at this time.

Additionally, expect the usual shopping list if you've ever done an engine swap before, including an oil and filter change, spark plugs, coolant drain and fill, power steering(which is trans fluid for this engine), a/c compressor evacuation and refill. Your particular engine may require additional parts, consult with the vendor to check if anything is not part of the engine sale that you would normally need.
 
#3 ·
I will add some JDM distributors in the USA will be willing to do a simple compression test on the engine you are inquiring about, so do not be afraid to ask.

ALWAYS ask about warranty conditions. Most warranties require a "certified mechanic" to install the engine, plus replacement of X, Y, and Z components prior to firing the engine, or the warranty is void. Also, some distributors offer only a 30 day warranty others 90 days, and at least one offers a one-year warranty on engine internal components. The warranty conditions should play a role in your decision about which distributor you purchase your JDM engine from.
 
#4 ·
I have had good luck with a motor out of Long Beach, CA....I had bought a motor from VA, they had to replace it...and the replacement was for crap as well. I second looking for a place that will do compression testing....
 
#5 ·
Mad Mallard's additional shopping
side posts about my own vehicle specifically

I'm going to share my particular case as well here, in case others find it helpful. Due to mileage, my car also needs a few things.

With the engine removed, it would be a good time to get some of this work.

1-steering, the leaking steering rack, and worn tierod ends prevent accurate alignment. will probably replace ball joints too.

2-coolant system questions, My radiator doesn't fit an OEM radiator cap. I have no idea why, but its not even close. So I intend to overhaul the cooling system as well. I will replace the radiator and its hoses with an oem unit, then perform a heater core flush. Also, i'm not sure, but the smaller condeser fan doesn't seem to come on with the other fan. They work together on my WRX, so I might need some help

3-wiper pump, leaks and drains out the wiper reservoir, replacing that.

4-alternator wiring suspect, I will run new alternator connections, and big-3 upgrade some grounds.

5-mounts and bushings, it will also be a good time to inspect/replace motor/transmission mounts, (perhaps even custom inserts from @traildogck .)

6-Trans cooler upgrade, I'm going to add a transmission cooler. I have one on my WRX and I am convinced of the increased cooling capacity to extend transmission and fluid life. If the fluid currently looks, good (no metal, friction material) then I'll also change the AT filter and flush to synthetic ATF.
 
#6 ·
Research Question:

my current A/C compressor has failed. The clutchwheel won't engage, and I'm not sure if its serviceable as other problems superseded diagnosing it further.

whats stopping me from leaving the Japanese A/C compressor on a JDM engine swap and using it?
 
#8 ·
a brief google search implies the use a formula called HFO-1234yf in current year vehicles, but I can't find useful links telling me what was used back in 2004 and before...


..it seems like they used r134a

 
#11 ·
As mentioned above, seems all of the ebay vendors have installation restrictions regarding the warranty that requires an ASE mechanic. I called the supplier in PHX, and he (Brian or Bryan) stated that for a bad engine, they require video but it is not a requirement that ASE credentials are submitted with it. YMMV
 
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