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What I learned towing a 2,000lb camper 2,500 miles

77K views 28 replies 15 participants last post by  mthopton  
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The Basics:
  • 2014 Outback with the 2.5 CVT
  • 2010 r-Pod 171 which weighs in at 2,100lbs with a 200lb hitch weight.


The Equipment
  • Tekonsha P2 brake controller
  • Curt class III hitch
  • Curt anti-sway bar
  • WAZE app (mapping on your phone)

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Trip Details
  • We traveled from Maine to Tennessee with 2 adults, 1 child and a dog with enough clothing/crap to last a week.
  • We drove through temps ranging from 65 to 88 degrees and weather including major thunderstorms.
  • We drove through hilly mountainous areas (Virginia, Tennessee, New York) which included several longer low grade climbs.
  • We averaged 60mph with 12mpg
  • We traveled 2500 miles in total

What I learned
  • It's not a race - towing a larger camper, your average speed will be 55-60mph. I kept an eye on rpm's more than speed. Going up grades it was not uncommon for my speed to drop to 50mph, keeping my rpm's below 3400.
  • When google maps says a trip will take x number of hours, add another 1/2 hour for every hour estimated. Example: if google maps says 10 hours, plan on 15. This includes the reduced speed and stops.
  • Averaging 12mpg, a tank of gas is equal to roughly 4 hours of driving.
  • Use the WAZE app. Using information from it's users, it will determine the fastest route dynamically. Meaning, if there is a traffic jam on your route, it will find a way around for you if one exists. It saved me from 2 major traffic jams, saving me hours in time.
  • Electric brakes are a must.
  • Anti-sway bar is a must. Because a heavier camper will have more influence on the OB's driving, the anti-sway bar helps keep everything traveling true. I found that adjusting the anti-sway bar to increase the resistance was helped significantly with poor roads, tractor trailers, etc.
  • Distribution of gear weight has a big effect. During the first day, I had our clothing and other heavier bags in the back of the OB and other gear in the camper. This was a lot of weight on the rear of the OB with the camper & gear putting more weight behind the rear axle causing 'porpoising'. I found that putting the heavier gear in the camper and only putting light items in the rear of the OB helped with overall handling.
  • Dramamine is a must. A heavier camper bounces you around more, and can put you off. Dramamine helped 'smooth' out the overall internal feeling when towing.

Overall
The OB did great and I didn't experience any issues. I towed in high temps and over hilly terrain without issue. I spent long days towing, dividing the two day drive into 11 hour/16 hour stretches. That said, I was also very careful. I kept my rpm's under 3400 and most of the time under 3000. I took my time and did not push the OB beyond it's limits.

And finally, I would not recommend doing this type of trip regularly. The OB is great, but towing heavy over long distances regularly is probably not healthy over the long term. I will be towing regularly (every 2-4 weeks except winter), but will be keeping my distances shorter (2-8 hours drive time).

I also was on the highway most of the time. I felt the OB actually did better at the 30-45mph range on smaller byways, etc. than it did on the highway. At 30-45mph, the OB felt 'dialed in' and in the future, I will stick to these types of roads when possible.

Very nice feedback Movemaine! Like-it!

Have you take time to stop on a truck scale? My quick search on the R-Pod 171 shown that the DRY weight are 2121 lb GVW with 181 lb TW. The GVWR are 3181 lb so... Maby you real weight loaded is between these two numbers?
 
I should get it weighed at some point.
In a perfect world, every RV towers should weighed his set-up. I would put It as criterion in my safety check list.

By the way weights test is a cool and informative thing to do. Its the most reliable and accurate data possible. On a certified truck scale we can see all effects of the weight on all axles.

We can weighed by few steps :
1) the set-up together
2) the car alone
3) the RV alone
4) set-up together with WD on if equipped
5) Move gears and see the real results.

Its a good way to understand weight distribution and understand relations between weight ratings and gross weights. We can see without a doubt if we respect Subaru's, hitch's and RV's weight ratings. The limits will be known and our decisions will be better.

So if you pass in front of a truck scale or have to do a few miles detour to get-It on It really worth-It.