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`05 2.5i 4AT, removing terminals from B301 ABS harness connector

1.6K views 7 replies 2 participants last post by  mkrazit  
#1 ·
Short time listener, first time caller. Really appreciate this forum resource as I've been reconditioning an `05 Outback 2.5i w/ 215k for my in-laws over the past few months. Past threads have provided guidance in helping me learn this chassis (coming from BMW, VAG, Mazda Miata communities).

The ABS light came on recently, and I found the instrument cluster trick of displaying chassis trouble codes -- C0109 and C0102, in my case. I used my DMM and a sewing T-pin to probe the B301 ABS harness connector per the FSM. I replaced the left rear ABS sensor but ended up w/ BRAKE and ABS warning lights when reconnected to the ABS module -- it appears I was too forceful in probing the small 22-pin side of the B301 connector (and I needed my glasses to probe the correct terminal).

I disassembled the connector to release the misshapen female terminals, but I can't figure out how they release.

Can anyone share how to de-pin the B301 small terminals?
 

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#2 ·
To clarify, the beige clip for the 22-pin terminals organizes the wires and is glued into the black connector. I was able to lever it free but it only slid down the wires on the harness side -- terminal pins were still firmly locked in the connector housing, even w/ the upper black/magenta part loose.

I contacted iWire where I ordered replacement ABS harness connector housings but they didn't have any further insight on the B301 small pins. I'll see if I can get a junkyard ABS block w/ the harness connector still on to dissect.
 
#4 ·
I just de-pinned the small female terminals last weekend on the vehicle. I searched ebay for a used 2005-2009 Outback/Legacy ABS block specifically looking for one including the harness connector.

Once I had one, I used a set of terminal de-pinning tools (lots of varieties out there, I bought these -- Amazon.com) to remove the 4 larger-dia. wires (these use one of the two-prong tools) to allow more small-dia.-wire slack to de-pin them. I had to modify one of the single-prong tools by narrowing the prong -- I don't have an exact dimension, I believe .030" width or less. The modified tool is inserted into the small triangular openings surrounding the terminal holes in the connector housing. You can see in the photos what the terminal looks like removed and where the locking tab is located.

Never seen terminals like this. I was able to straighten those I bent w/ needlenose pliers and the modified de-pinning tool and eliminate the AWD light illuminated in the cluster, but I still have ABS and BRAKE lights on -- more troubleshooting to go.

I'm curious about your intermittent ground to the ABS. How does this behave? How have you tracked it down to an intermittent ground?
 

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#5 ·
I just posted about it, but I don't know how to put the link here. Essentially, I got the P0600 and P0700 codes which mean the CAN bus is dead. After lots of research and $500 to a shop that could not fix it, I realized that none of the various CAN modules (ECM, TCM, ABS, VCT) are grounded to each other on a common ground. Rather, there are a bunch of ground wires connecting the engine to the frame, connecting frame to devices, etc. So I started cleaning up the grounds one by one, checking to see if codes had cleared. When I got to the ground on the passenger side frame the codes cleared. So I followed it back to the ABS connector and while fiddling with it, the codes came back. So I cleared the codes, had the wife look at the dash while I wiggled the wires, and bang the codes came back. Then I used a DMM to check the ohms from the "pin side" of the connector and it is flaky and opens when I wiggle the wire. I bought a little Lisle depinner at Oreillys and will give that a try in the morning to see if I can de pin that ground and find the problem. Oh, and I think you can search my username and find the post I did. Thank you so much for the pictures and the info!
 
#7 ·
Interesting. If not the wiring itself at the ABS connectors, female pins can lose their tension over time, requiring careful bending of tabs. In 2020, I had to do similar (even replace some pins) w/ a used '04 RSX Type S engine harness for another project because of intermittent connections/low tension. Hopefully that's all it is for your's and a "free" fix. Thanks for letting me know about your thread - I'll check it out.