Last year I had this genius idea: I wonder if I could use the same oil and filter on all of my cars? Nope. It seems that the H6 filter can be used on some NA EJ25s but the larger diameter case will sit far too close the exhaust mani, and that's bad because the filter side is also the turbo side. I decided to stick with the OEM Tokyo Roki for the Outback and I am running the Mazda filter on the Baja Turbo. For the Forester I've just been running the longer Napa Gold EJ filter as it's cheaper.

I 'm using a blend in mine, I'm right around 100k. During the filter crisis of 2014 I thought about switching it to Rotella T6 like I use in the Baja but I don't want to destroy the cats. Oh well..maybe I'll find a decent oil that is full syn but not almost twice the price as T6. Maybe.

 

yeah. I don't plan to use t6 which is 40 wt. I was thinking of using synthetic 5w30 as opposed to regular. I use 5w30 on my rex as well. Also wondering if synthetic will help.

 

Help what, exactly?

That block will run 400k+ miles on the cheapest 5w-30 petroleum you can find on the bottom shelf at the dollar store. You can spend all you want but that engine really isn't picky about oil as long as there's enough and it's clean.

Save the synthetic for where it actually counts.

 

I've been using Valvoline 5W-30 synthetic in our 3.0R for the past 20K miles or so. Synthetic isn't some scary change anymore, not sure why this is something to question at all.

 

Well because of the synthetic's flow properties with extreme climates compared to regular , I wanted to make sure it will not have negative effects but only positive during winter or summer.

 

How many days do you get above 120F or below -70F? Do you still need to drive on those days?

 

Wondering if anyone here runs subaru synthetic 5w30 on their 3.0s?

yes, one or two.......hundred thousand people. HA HAHA!! :grin2:

read/follow the owners manual. it says it's fine.

unlike most repair/maintenance/questions - if every oil thread/forum/post ever made was deleted, it would affect vehicle ownership negligibly, if at all.

 

Iam slowly seeing flame , lol ! The reason I asked for Synthetic was not just the benefits, but also that if I open a qt I could use it both in my OB and the rex and not having to maintain seperate oils on the shelf. Money could be less of an issue actually because I do the labor myself so I can afford to pay for better oil in this case.

rasterman - While I definitely see your point, my intentions were different. Hope you understand.

grossgary - I already read the manual, but did not see use of synthetic mentioned at the recommended viscosity section.

Thanks guys!!

 

grossgary - I already read the manual, but did not see use of synthetic mentioned at the recommended viscosity section.

Well it does "say it"...without saying it. It doesn't say you can use "non-synthetic" or Quaker State, or Castrol either, right? I think it says any oil meeting the API or whatever that acronym is standards...which synthetic oil does, so in that regard it does mention synthetic oil, it wants you to study petroleum grading systems and read like a scientist. LOL

Basically it's saying "Is the stuff real automotive oil?" Great - use it, because it doesn't matter beyond that.

Some of the thrust for oil choice responses is that it has no bearing (ha ha) on reliably driving 200,000+ miles. it may lead them to think they're choosing excellent preventative maintenance, when they are not. There are specific ways to reliably own high mileage Subaru's and oil choice isn't even on that radar screen for non-turbo engines.

Your serpentine bearing pulleys will fail, positively. You should read the sticky threads on those and be sure to address them now or every 60,000 miles. That for instance, would be excellent preventative maintenance.

 

No worries, doesn't matter to me how you want to do it. I apologize for my pre-caffeine post tone.

I completely understand the value of shelf space in the garage- wife's car needs something substantially different than my subie so I'm condemned to keeping a few bottles.

 

It's all good sir

 

I dont see any reason NOT to run synthetic, but, Im not an expert YMMV

> synthetic's flow properties with extreme climates

you mean the superior flow properties of synthetic worry you?

> It's been proven that some engines with higher miles will leak or seap when switched

makes sense if the leak was filled with carbon and sludge from the dino oil, the synthetic will clean that out and reveal the need for new gaskets

I use Shell Rotella T6 5w40 in a 99 Impreza OBS, 85 Vanagon with stock motor, 86 Vanagon with Subaru 2.2 motor, 87 Vanagon with 5Cyl Audi A6 Tdi motor, 03 Jetta 1.9 Tdi, and my 06 Outback with 3.0R motor.

I have not had any Cat issues, nor seepage issues, but Ive only been on the T6 for about 6 years, for a total of about 300k miles combined, 2 daily drivers, me and daughter.

from this thread (turbos running T6):

this guy runs an STI:
"I use Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 which is a synthetic. Here's my latest oil analysis, and I used the same oil on my last analysis. I'm stage 2 protuned to 316WHP."

this guy runs a Forester 2.5 XT
"If you check your manual, you'll see that Subaru has no problem with synthetics as long as you still run the proper viscosity and oil change interval for your conditions. According to recent emails from SoA posted at nasioc, SoA will be requiring synthetics from 2011 onwards and recommending them for all previous years."

 

Excellent... thanks for pointing that out.

 

more evidence that you SHOULD run synthetic, especially with a Turbo

Subaru maintenance schedules and new car break-in period- 2000 through 2009, links for 2010, 2011...
"Synthetic Oil 
new Subaru Synthetic Oil is new and available starting August 2010. 
5w-30 Subaru Synthetic Oil is recommended but not required* on any engine through 2009. It is especially recommended on turbo engines. 
The maintenance schedule is the same regardless of oil used. (statement effective July 2010) "

and more evidence that T6 works
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...ck.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/290194-changing-5w30-5w40-oil-outback-xt.html
"

You won't go wrong with Rotella T6 5w40 in a Subaru turbo.

"

 

more evidence that you SHOULD run synthetic, especially with a Turbo

this thread isn't about turbo engines - that's a completely different topic in multiple ways.

title specifically says 3.0R. in which case it doesn't matter.

 

The turbo does run harder and beat up oil more than the NA and 3.0 counterparts.

I would not say that T6 5w40 is bad for the non-turbo engines, but is likely unneeded.

The NA 2.5 and the 3.0 will run quite happily on anything conventional, blend, or synthetic in the correct spec of 5w30, as long as it is changed when it needs to be.

 

There we go - me and super moderator have been 100% on the same page the whole time:

 

Wondering if anyone here runs subaru synthetic 5w30 on their 3.0s? i just got it and have about 48000 miles on the car and was thinking of switching to synthetic on my next oil change. that way i can maintain same oil for my rex and the ob.

Yes, I run synthetic in my 3.0
Yes you can use synthetic in both your 3.0 and your rex

no, there is no reason why you should NOT run synthetic in a 3.0, and there is no reason you MUST stock a different oil for each car. Synthetic works for both, in fact, Subaru recommends synthetic for both.

There ARE situations where dinosaur oil is actually more protective than synthetic, for example in the hypoid transaxle of my Vanagon Syncro I run Swepco 201 dinosaur oil, and I will not use Redline MT-90 synthetic, but synthetic is fine for your 3.0 motor and your rex.

I agree with grossgary and AWDFTW, you dont NEED to run synthetic in your 3.0, but it will not hurt it, the 3.0 does not REQUIRE dinosaur oil, which is what I thought you were trying to figure out.

 

This is plenty of synthetic happiness.

I am running four quarts Havoline Pro DS Full Synthetic 5w-30 in my 117500 mile EJ253. I think I noticed that while running the engine does leak and leave some pooling in the parking lot.

When I get some money or hit three thousand on this change I believe I will return to conventional or use high mileage oil.

 

pooling in the parking lot.

I recommend professional help to repair the leak(s).

afaik
Synthetic does not magically seep through metal.
And dinosaur oil does not repair leaks.

otoh, if you come back after switching oils and report your pooling in the parking lot has been cured, I will be happy to learn from your experience.

 

was the synthetic the same exact weight as prior oil changes?
if you're running thin or average oil you could try a bit thicker oil - it may simply be less prone to gravitating through the head gasket leak.

if you repair it, find someone that will do these two steps (most dealers don't/won't):
1. resurface the heads
2. use the Turbo EJ25 headgasket ending in part number 642

you probably know this - but if they're the original headgaskets you can run those engines like 50,000 miles without replacing the headgaskets as long as you don't let the oil get low. eventually the leak will get quite annoying though when you're spewing the james bond smoke screen at stop lights.

high mileage oils are mostly a marketing ploy, oil plus whatever additives they add to make it "high mileage", the engine needs oil not additives. they aren't bad - but they generally come at a premium, limits choices for littler or no value added.

 

We usually change at 5,000 (easy to remember) but ran this out to 7,482 miles to see how it held up.

Wix 51334XP filter and 5-40 Rotella T6 synthetic.