Did you check the child lock toggle?

 

Did you check the child lock toggle?

you can barely see it from the inside but it is unlocked. You cannot open the door from either side.

 

We took it home and removed the door panel as all of the cables seem to be connected and together. We are not sure how to fix it.

The door latch can be locked and unlocked using the remote control (fob) or the Lock/Unlock switch on the front doors next to the window controls. When it's used, a small motor (actuator) on the latch mechanism moves a lever that at one position unlocks the door and at the other locks it.

There have been cases of the motor itself failing and others where the grease used to lubricate the gearing in the mechanism becomes hard, and the motor can't move the gears.

If it fails in the fully locked position, it's usually still possible to use the rotating manual lock/unlock lever that's part of the inside door release handle to unlock the door. But if the actuator stalls sort of midway, it seems to block the inside manual lever from being effective. So the door remains locked.

Does the electrical lock/unlock function work on the other three doors and the rear hatch?

 

The door latch can be locked and unlocked using the remote control (fob) or the Lock/Unlock switch on the front doors next to the window controls.

Bold of you to assume that a Gen 2 owner still has/uses the remote fob. I was given one when I bought the car 6 years ago and didn't like the way it bulked my keys. I took it off and never looked back.

 

We took it home and removed the door panel as all of the cables seem to be connected and together.

Doesn't the 2002 use solid rod linkages (rather than cables) between the handles and the latch assembly?

I've attached pages from the service manual for reference.

With the door trim panel off, can you move the rod from the internal lock/unlock control (part of the inside door handle) back and forth? If so, does it seem to be doing anything at the latch assembly?

On the last page there's an "inspection" paragraph where power is applied to the actuator. I wonder if the connector on the actuator is accessible in your situation and if it might be possible to run that test. Perhaps with direct connection of power the motor might run enough to unlock, after which the door could be opened (I presume it's closed now) and the latch assembly removed for repair or replacement.

Trying to get a better view of the mechanism, I found this current eBay page that has photos of the LR door latch assembly: 2000-04 Subaru Legacy Outback LH Rear Power Door Lock Latch Mechanism OEM 38207 | eBay .

Here's one where I've added notes that I think are correct (this view is the opposite of what is seen looking from the cabin side of the door):

Here we can see the actuator and latch mechanism. While I haven't confirmed (don't have an assembly to examine), I believe the actuator moves that small, white lever back and forth to lock or unlock the mechanism. It moves a metal lever on the mechanism, that is also attached to the rod coming from the rotating internal lock/unlock control on the inside door handle. As the white actuator lever appears to be in a narrow slot in the metal lever, if the actuator lever stalls mid-way, it looks as if the metal lever would also be stalled. In this case, the internal lock/unlock control on the inside handle, which is connected to the metal lever via rods, would also not be able to move the metal lever, and consequently not be able to change between locked and unlocked. Perhaps compare how far that internal handle lever moves (rotates) on the other three doors that do work, to how far it moves on the left rear door.

Here's another current eBay page with clearer photos: 2001 Subaru Outback Legacy Rear Driver Door Lock Latch Actuator | eBay

The area of the latch mechanism can become clogged with dirt etc., or corroded. I wonder if that's preventing the mechanism from unlocking, in which case, spraying the mechanism from the inside with a degreaser/lubricant might help free it.

Just some ideas that I hope might help. Please keep us informed . . .

 

Doesn't the 2002 use solid rod linkages (rather than cables) between the handles and the latch assembly?

I've attached pages from the service manual for reference.

With the door trim panel off, can you move the rod from the internal lock/unlock control (part of the inside door handle) back and forth? If so, does it seem to be doing anything at the latch assembly?

On the last page there's an "inspection" paragraph where power is applied to the actuator. I wonder if the connector on the actuator is accessible in your situation and if it might be possible to run that test. Perhaps with direct connection of power the motor might run enough to unlock, after which the door could be opened (I presume it's closed now) and the latch assembly removed for repair or replacement.

Trying to get a better view of the mechanism, I found this current eBay page that has photos of the LR door latch assembly: 2000-04 Subaru Legacy Outback LH Rear Power Door Lock Latch Mechanism OEM 38207 | eBay .

Here's one where I've added notes that I think are correct (this view is the opposite of what is seen looking from the cabin side of the door):

View attachment 490362
Here we can see the actuator and latch mechanism. While I haven't confirmed (don't have an assembly to examine), I believe the actuator moves that small, white lever back and forth to lock or unlock the mechanism. It moves a metal lever on the mechanism, that is also attached to the rod coming from the rotating internal lock/unlock control on the inside door handle. As the white actuator lever appears to be in a narrow slot in the metal lever, if the actuator lever stalls mid-way, it looks as if the metal lever would also be stalled. In this case, the internal lock/unlock control on the inside handle, which is connected to the metal lever via rods, would also not be able to move the metal lever, and consequently not be able to change between locked and unlocked. Perhaps compare how far that internal handle lever moves (rotates) on the other three doors that do work, to how far it moves on the left rear door.

Here's another current eBay page with clearer photos: 2001 Subaru Outback Legacy Rear Driver Door Lock Latch Actuator | eBay

The area of the latch mechanism can become clogged with dirt etc., or corroded. I wonder if that's preventing the mechanism from unlocking, in which case, spraying the mechanism from the inside with a degreaser/lubricant might help free it.

Just some ideas that I hope might help. Please keep us informed . . .

When I use the fob or the unlock in the front, I can see the rods moving and even something twisting in the inside, and when I use the door handle I can see stuff moving too.

 

I opened the opposite door and on that one it is easier to move the lock mechanism. Also there is a little plastic price that moves up and down in the back when you use the door handle but it isn’t moving on the broken one, I tried moving it myself but nothing happened.

 

Also there is a little plastic price that moves up and down in the back when you use the door handle but it isn’t moving on the broken one, . .

To clarify, is it when the inside door handle is used, or when the lock/unlock lever is rotated?

Is the little plastic piece identifiable in any of the diagrams or photos posted here, or on the eBay pages I linked to earlier?

Is the plastic piece at the latch mechanism in the door? Can you identify its color?

 

It happens when you used the door handle and not the lock but I can’t find it, the color is blue.
this is the good one

 

That looks to be the rod that goes from the outside door handle to the latch. (On the very far right in the diagram in post #6 above.) When the latch is unlocked, and the outside handle is pulled up, it will release and open the door. If the latch is locked, the outside handle moves up but it doesn't cause the latch to release and open the door.

But that rod link from the outside door handle to the latch isn't involved with locking and unlocking the latch.

 

I don't remember any posts in gen2 like this off hand. front and rear door lock actuators work the same though.

problems always exist with the hatch lock / latch though. works the same with the same unlock button, but all that dust really fowls things up quick. = even if I remove the trim and blow clean and lube the stuff, after a few months I have to latch the grab handle with my thumb again. (not sure if that goes into Gen3)


but @plain OM thank you for your wise pics.

 

problems always exist with the hatch lock / latch though. works the same with the same unlock button, but all that dust really fowls things up quick

Going to try to stop in at the p-n-p this morning. The other day there was a 2001 Legacy that I looked at for the door striker; if the LR door is still there, I'll get photos of the inside (hopefully of the linkage and the latch assembly in place) and then pull the latch and actuator assembly to take with. Hope to see how it works internallly, and what could happen to cause it to hang up.

 

We took it home and removed the door panel as all of the cables seem to be connected and together.

When the door panel and plastic water shield is off, you should see the door and the linkage as in first photo in the above post.

Looking more closely at the linkage, when the "bell crank" is at an angle, the door is unlocked, as in the ,left photo above, and this one:

Note that the small handle on the lock/unlock lever at the inside door handle is facing forward, and the vertical red line is visible.

When the latch is locked, the "bell crank" is near vertical, as in the right photo above and this one:

In this case, note that the small handle on the lock/unlock lever at the inside door handle is facing out, toward the viewer, and the lever is indicating "LOCK".

Compare the positions of the "bell crank" in these photos to where your's is. If the bell crank is vertical, or near vertical, grab the "bell crank" and twist it counter-clockwise, thereby pulling the lower rod toward the right. With the "bell crank" in the unlocked position (slanted to the left), the latch should be unlocked, enabling you to open the door.

See if that works. If it does, as long as the door panel is off, and there's access to the "bell crank", the door can be closed and even locked. But try using the remote control to to lock and unlockthe doors. See if the "bell crank" now moves back and forth. Let us know.

 

After soaking the assembly with wd40 last night the door worked great this morning! Thankyou for you advise!

 

I think the problem was just that it wouldn’t rotate enough.

Glad to learn that.

I'm going to post more detailed photos of the mechanism, in the next day or two. Figured out how it works and what could cause it to hang up. The lever not turning enough is certainly a possibility.

Based on what I've seen of the assembly, I would probably remove it, flush off all the old grease, apply new grease, and reinstall. (The WD-40 might have softened old, dried grease, but unless it was flushed away, the grease could reharden and cause a repeat.) I was actually surprised at how easily the assembly came out once the door trim and water shield were removed.

With the door locked closed, how did you get the door trim off? That might be something to add here for others who might face the same problem in future.

 

I think the problem was just that it wouldn’t rotate enough.

 

@eagleeye @Tanyonk0654 et al

Here’s more info on the 2nd gen rear door latch system:

The photo in post #17 above shows the complete assembly as it comes out of the left rear door on the 2001 (2nd Gen) Outback.

Here’s more details of the latch assembly as seen:

The other side of the latch assembly:

Closer views of the lock/unlock mechanism:

Door opening action when using the outside handle

Here's another view of the mechanism

Not covered so far is how lever A, connected to the inside door handle, opens the door, and is prevented from doing so when the Child Lock is switch On.

Lever A isn't directly attached to Lever C, the part that engages with the rotating Lever D on the latch mechanism. Instead, Lever A connects to the slotted piece in this photo. When the Child Lock is Off, and the inside handle is pulled, the slotted piece is pulled to the left, catching on Lever E and pulling it to the left, the same as when the outside door handle is used.

When the Child Lock is ON, the slotted lever is moved away from Lever E, so that when the inside door handle is pulled, the slotted lever moves left, but does not engage Lever E.

I did not clean the mechanism in any way and the grease that was factory-applied can be clearly seen. At the linkage between lever B and Lever C, hardened grease can prevent lever B from rotating when the electric actuator is being used, and can also prevent the manual lock/unlock lever from moving through it's full range. Similarly, accumulated dirt etc., can block movement of the lock/unlock-related levers.

I tried the electric actuator and found it developed a good amount of torque with 13 V applied -- it took some effort to prevent lever B, the main lock/unlock lever, from rotating when power was applied. When using a 9 V alkaline battery, it was noticeably slower but still fairly strong when I held lever B from rotating. This particular unit seems to be in good shape. However, with a weak motor (e.g., worn brushes./commutator) or poor power supply (bad connections, weak car battery etc) it might not be able to overcome resistance in the linkages.

Questions, something I missed, comments, welcome.

 

I got the door panel off with a small wonder bar, I slowly pried up and out.