Go get the codes read. If you're in the US (you don't say) an Autozone type store will read the codes for free.

Get codes.

Post here.

Without data, no one can help.

 

Okay, that's a good idea, thank you. Yes, I'm in the U.S., west coast.

 

Also, more about the car, engine? When I bought my used XT, this happened to me as well. Dealer said same thing, it worked once as well.

Then it came on again, then the turbo AND motor lunched.

Codes, ditto.

 

Traildogck: Mine is not a turbo. It's a 2.5 liter pzev. It seems to drive fine, that is, I wouldn't think twice about anything if not for the darn check engine light. Also, back in May, I had the entire catalytic converter and accompanying emissions software program thing (ECM programming) replaced for free, due to a recall. So, brand new timing belt, oil change, 2 new drive belts, catalytic converter, and emissions program.

ADWFTW: I called my local Auto zone and they don't check codes, but there's a local Aamco here that they said apparently does. My dealer is 1.5 hours north of here (just relocated), so I'm trying to save myself a trip back to the dealer if possible. At the same time, I don't want to bring my car to just any shop and get ripped off. Thanks.

 

California. Auto Zone has been outlawed from scanning cars. Try an Advance Auto Parts. Steer away from Aamco.

 

Yep, I'm in CA. ...Well this is turning out to be an interesting project. No Advance Auto Parts in my area, or Pep Boys. There's a Firestone nearby, but they are known to overcharge. I just called them, and they will scan it, but for $99.95. Great... I have heard some shady things about Aamco myself. Hmm. It looks like I may need to make the drive up to my dealer.

Or, what's the harm in continuing to drive with the light on? My guess is that it's probably an annoying computer glitch anyway. It means no cruise control, but can this sort of thing wait if I just do local driving around town? I'm wondering if the last visit to my dealer threw something off when they did the oil change and belt replacements... Any other ideas?

 

do you have a friend, relative or co-worker that wrenches on cars with an OBDII car scanner?

If you have a smartphone, you can get an eml327 device for under $15-$20 and free Torque app. that should read the code.

 

Should be able to read the codes "DIY" on the 2008: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...es/19053-06-09-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html?highlight=read+codes

Also, check the rubber gasket in the gas cap. If it's missing, torn, cracked or flattened out, it could leak and that would lead to a "small leak" code.

 

All good suggestions, thank you. I think it could be the gas cap. Apart from likely not passing inspection next time around, would that be any sort of safety hazard in the meantime?

 

What if its not the gas cap and its something to do with the transmission? Or, potential engine issue that may leave you stranded or broke down?

Point is, don't ignore the light. There are a few hundred things that will make the light come on and until you know what the code is, there won't be any progress.

 

Just a quick update here, and some good news: I followed plain OM's advice and took a closer look at the gas cap. I jiggled the rubber seal around and moved it up a little higher toward the top of the cap. When I re-started the car, the check engine light went out. So that must be it. Maybe it's time to replace that seal, but for now, it looks like I've temporarily resolved the issue. Thanks to everyone for their tips and suggestions!

 

If there was a code (and there certainly was one if the CEL was on), then it's probably still in memory. Use the suggested method, or take the car somewhere to read the code(s). There could be something else that is intermittent, but perhaps more serious. As cardoc states, "don't ignore the light".

If it turns out the code is related to the gas cap (post the code here and it will be interpreted), then you can well have that higher level of confidence. (Perhaps stop in at a dealer and buy a new one.)

(When I posted the link to how to read the codes, the intent was 1) read the code; and 2) if it's related to the cap, check the gasket.)

 

^^^Only chiming in here to Agree

Check the code, today we have nice names of these alert mechanisms.

CEL-Check Engine Light
MIL-Malfunction Indicator Light

When I learned to drive, you had gauges and lights, lights were bad...They were(and still are) called "idiot lights". Because, "Only one continues to drive with one"

No offense, it just isn't a good.

 

In order for your "fix" to have corrected the MIL, you would have had to drive the car for 2 drive cycles, then the light would go out once the issue is not observed. The light will not go out with the first key stroke on any repair other than a knock sensor. It is the ONLY circuit that the ECM will turn the light off immediately after a repair without a drive cycle. All others take at least one cycle.