Did you plug in the fans after radiator replacement?
Sounds like you still have air in the system, jiggle and squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times, that's always worked for me.

 

Whenever I drain the coolant for any repairs, which is a lot, when I refill the system, using the Lisle funnel, I will idle the engine for about 5 minutes. I don't bother with jacking up the front of the cars. At 5 minutes idle, I snap the throttle a couple times to 4k rpm, turn the heater on full and blowing out the upper vents to verify flow through the heater core. No heat, snap the throttle until I have heat. The quick rpm change pushes coolant through the system with more force and moves air out.

I then let it run for 10-15 minutes and keep an eye on the funnel. When I don't have any bubbles and only a little flow of steaming coolant, I shut it off and let it cool down, usually over night. As the coolant contracts the level in the funnel will drop. Next morning I take off the funnel and put the cap on. Done.

You would have to start again with the funnel. Not just to insure air is out, but also to check for a HG issue. Set it up like you did prior. Fill the funnel to half way and start the car. Let it idle to get the temp up and check for even heat out of the vents. Snap the throttle a couple times and watch for bubbles at the funnel. Keep watching the funnel for bubbles as it runs. If you have a scan tool, have it set to watch the temperature. If it gets close to 225°F, turn it off and let it sit. Let it run until the fans come on and keep watching the funnel and temp. If after the fans kick on and you are getting air bubbles, you may have a breech.

 

Whenever I drain the coolant for any repairs, which is a lot, when I refill the system, using the Lisle funnel, I will idle the engine for about 5 minutes. I don't bother with jacking up the front of the cars. At 5 minutes idle, I snap the throttle a couple times to 4k rpm, turn the heater on full and blowing out the upper vents to verify flow through the heater core. No heat, snap the throttle until I have heat. The quick rpm change pushes coolant through the system with more force and moves air out.

I then let it run for 10-15 minutes and keep an eye on the funnel. When I don't have any bubbles and only a little flow of steaming coolant, I shut it off and let it cool down, usually over night. As the coolant contracts the level in the funnel will drop. Next morning I take off the funnel and put the cap on. Done.

You would have to start again with the funnel. Not just to insure air is out, but also to check for a HG issue. Set it up like you did prior. Fill the funnel to half way and start the car. Let it idle to get the temp up and check for even heat out of the vents. Snap the throttle a couple times and watch for bubbles at the funnel. Keep watching the funnel for bubbles as it runs. If you have a scan tool, have it set to watch the temperature. If it gets close to 225°F, turn it off and let it sit. Let it run until the fans come on and keep watching the funnel and temp. If after the fans kick on and you are getting air bubbles, you may have a breech.

When you snap the throttle does your fluid in the funnel rise at all? So when I use the funnel from cold start and a full Radiator coolant will rise in the funnel to a level after heatup which I would assume is normal however the lower radiator hose never heats up which I also think is normal on a 40 degree day even after fans are running. I also tried taking all the plugs out and putting one in at a time and cranking with the funnel on to see if it blew out coolant indicating a bad HG but not issue. Still not sure on the gurgle- ideas to test heater core?

 

The level will rise. Normally about an inch or so. When you snap the throttle the force of coolant being moved pushes the coolant to the funnel and the level will rise and go back down. As coolant expands with heat, the level will rise slowly and steady out until air escapes.

If it's rising substantially, like more than 1.5" and continues to rise, then that may be a problem. Air is accumulating in the engine and pushing the coolant up. If it does this, then you can snap the throttle again and wait to see if air bubbles emerge.

The lower radiator hose will be at the temperature the coolant in the radiator is. The engine pulls from the radiator at the bottom. Coolant flows out the top hose, so when it's up to temperature then it will be hot. When the temperature in the radiator starts to get closer to the engine then the lower hose will be a bit warmer.

As far as the heater core goes, you put air pressure on the coolant system via the radiator fill neck, not too much, no more than 16 psi, and watch for coolant to leak out the HVAC drain. Also listen for the leak from inside the car. It may take a while depending on the severity of the leak, if there is one.

Gurgling noises from behind the dashboard can also be one of the electric motors for the HVAC.

 

did you install the t-stat in the proper orientation? (air bleed hole at the top)?

 

yes sir, jiggle at the top

 

I think you have an air pocket that needs to be worked out. Subaru’s are difficult to burp air out imho and the traditional way of using the funnel doesn’t work for me on these boxer engines. I went through the same issues as you when I did an engine replacement into my 2011 2.5 Outback. Had lots of trouble burping air out so would overheat on road test. What it turned out to be was air still left in cooling system until I bled it all out.

what worked for me was connect funnel to radiator. Disconnect hoses at heater core by firewall. Fill the radiator and engine block through the heater core hoses which is now your Highest point. Fill until you see coolant in the funnel. pinch off heater hoses and set aside once full.

At the heater core- connect two pieces of clear 5/8” hose to the heater core and fill line with coolant. Work the hoses back and forth until all air bubbles gone. This ensures your hc is completely full with no air pocket in it. quickly reconnect the heater core hoses and replace Radiator cap. At this pint you would have filled system just about complete and air mostly out.

execute service manual instructions, which are to fill the reserve tank to full. Start vehicle and blip engine to 4K rpm 5-6 times ina min. Shut off engine and let cool. Top off radiator and reservoir, replace cap. Now run the engine at around 3000 rpm (hold foot on pedal) until thermostat opens and cycles a couple times. If you have an obd2 to monitor temp you’ll see temp read 194-196 or so then cool down to about 185 which is the thermostat cycling. This cycle should repeat if the system is operating properly ie all air bled out.

then shut off and let cool. Top off radiator and reservoir, then road test and should be good then.

hope this helps

 

I think you have an air pocket that needs to be worked out. Subaru’s are difficult to burp air out imho and the traditional way of using the funnel doesn’t work for me on these boxer engines. I went through the same issues as you when I did an engine replacement into my 2011 2.5 Outback. Had lots of trouble burping air out so would overheat on road test. What it turned out to be was air still left in cooling system until I bled it all out.

what worked for me was connect funnel to radiator. Disconnect hoses at heater core by firewall. Fill the radiator and engine block through the heater core hoses which is now your Highest point. Fill until you see coolant in the funnel. pinch off heater hoses and set aside once full.

At the heater core- connect two pieces of clear 5/8” hose to the heater core and fill line with coolant. Work the hoses back and forth until all air bubbles gone. This ensures your hc is completely full with no air pocket in it. quickly reconnect the heater core hoses and replace Radiator cap. At this pint you would have filled system just about complete and air mostly out.

execute service manual instructions, which are to fill the reserve tank to full. Start vehicle and blip engine to 4K rpm 5-6 times ina min. Shut off engine and let cool. Top off radiator and reservoir, replace cap. Now run the engine at around 3000 rpm (hold foot on pedal) until thermostat opens and cycles a couple times. If you have an obd2 to monitor temp you’ll see temp read 194-196 or so then cool down to about 185 which is the thermostat cycling. This cycle should repeat if the system is operating properly ie all air bled out.

then shut off and let cool. Top off radiator and reservoir, then road test and should be good then.

hope this helps

All I did was fill start engine up and hold to 2k rpm and it did it’s job let it cool down and topped up after . All my pipes were hot and the radiator


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Great idea, that the plan for the weekend, Thanks

 

Did all above , still overheating. I still find it strange that Block tester passed. I am going to pull the thermostat and retest, If it doesn't over heat then I believe the system is getting pressurized and not allowing the stat to open, since lower hose stays cold and upper hose gets rock hard when car is at temp. Briansmobile seems accurate except I have no wetness or leaks at all:

I think I'll try a leak fix before doing HG. Any recommendations, I know Scotty Kilmer likes Steal Seal but open to anyone else with experience

 

I suggest you do not put in a "leak sealer", "HG Repair" liquid, or other substance in the engine. It will only make it worse and lead to replacement of other parts. Radiator gets restricted, coolant passages get restricted, thermostat gets F'd up, possible heater core gets gummed up. That crap is just that, crap.

Parts list for head gasket repair should include EJ255 head gaskets with the normal EJ253 gaskets for the valve covers, tube seals, cam seals if you want to change them. May as well do the timing kit while you're at it unless it's been done recently. AISIN Kit with Japanese parts, (KOYO, Mitsuboshi, w/AISIN water pump and metal gasket).

 

I don’t believe in any of that sealer stuff


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I would not recommend any sealer either , causes more problems than it’s worth. Does it overheat in the garage, or during road test?

Let’s go back to basics,

1) is the thermostat OEM new? 88C/194F

2) radiator cap is subie one and new?

3) assuming radiator is filled completely, and you did the heater core fill method, that should eliminate almost all air before starting. Do you have heat coming from heater core?

4) are you monitoring temp with laser thermometer, or obd2 scanning tool? What is it doing here? If air is out of system, the temp should go up to about 194-198F then cool down when thermostat opens.

4) did you let car cool down after burp procedure, and re top radiator and oveflow reserve?

 

Couldn't resolve the overheat with anything above, So I called Subaru and they said since I heard the gurgle behind the dash, bad HG. $2600 for Timing and gasket job. I've done heads on old ford 351ws so decided to take a swing. Pretty easy disassembly even with engine still in car , no issues. Heads looked in good shape for plane with straight edge. Installed new Felpro 26531 PT-3 gaskets. They were more like the superceeded 11044AA670 OEM not the new 11044AA770 , new timing component kit Aisin ASN TKF 006. No issues on reassembly and car starts up and idles smooth. In about 30 seconds acrid (not really oily or coolant smelling)smoke rolls up around the whole face of valve covers and does not appear to be coming from manifold or anywhere specific, It rolls along the whole face of the VC and not quite oil smell. Cant pinpoint the source so my though is something is pressurizing and pushing out through bottom of gasket. Valve covers get pretty hot in that amount of time. My concern is that something is blocked or maybe i flipped the gasket backwards and thinking of tearing down again since it only takes a hour to get at each one. Kind of afraid to let run to see if it all burns off, don't need to melt down the car when i can easily pull the heads and inspect.

Thoughts??

 

If you swapped gaskets with heads in the car, it’s really difficult to separate the fluids and make sure everything is clean, it may just be residual coolant/oil in the wrong chambers burning off. Ie coolant in the combustion.

double check all fluids are at the correct level. Clean all surfaces really good. Those head gaskets only go on one way, so unlikely you blocked something. Is it still overheating?

Dumb question did you have the heads decked before you re-install them?

 

Heads were decked, did'nt over heat because I only let in run for a minute or 2. Turned it of because of the smoke. Looked the the gasket orientation and can tell they are in correctly since the "Up" section of the gasket sits where I can tell it should be. Maybe its just the burnoff, think I'll back it out of the garage in case it burns down. Exhaust was good for the short time and that where I figured the burnoff would occur not come from below the valve covers. I could'nt pinpoint and maybe it was the manifold. I don't think it would run that smooth if Something was f'd up that bad.There was not leaking around the heads at all. Already pulled the passenger head and all looked good. Did notice that one of the oil return ports didnt seem to be oily, was kind of dry.

 

I will tell you that I am not too enthused with FelPro gaskets. The valve cover gaskets tend to leak due to ill fit. The HGs are questionable.

With the MLS gasket upgrade I suggest you use the turbo torque settings on the head. Those last couple turns are important to insure a good seal. Watch the temp while you burp it and after you put the cap on the radiator. If it runs hot or has signs of gasket seepage, retorque the heads.

 

Do you recommend the OEM 11044AA770 . I have a new set and can throw them in easily. I saw mixed reviews on both felpro and OEM. Thanks

 

That is the correct part number for the EJ255 MLS gasket. I use them all the time without issues.

Like I posted above, use the WRX head torque specs.

 

I fund this is the updated in the manuals Japan Manuals. There seems to be a few different update torques specs,. how much does the WRX change from:
CAUTION: To avoid erroneous tightening of the bolts, clean out the bolt holes sufficiently by blowing with compressed air to eliminate engine coolant etc. (2) Apply a sufficient coat of engine oil to the washer and bolt thread. (3) Tighten all bolts to 40 N·m (4.1 kgf-m, 29.5 ft-lb) in alphabetical order. (4) Retighten all bolts to 95 N·m (9.7 kgf-m, 70.1 ft-lb) in alphabetical order. CAUTION: If the bolt makes stick-slip sound during tightening, repeat the procedure from step (1). In this case, the cylinder head gasket can be reused. (5) Loosen all the bolts by 180° in the reverse order of installing, and loosen them further by 180°. 6) Tighten all bolts to 10 N·m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.4 ftlb) in alphabetical order. (7) Retighten all bolts to 30 N·m (3.1 kgf-m, 22.1 ft-lb) in alphabetical order. (8) Retighten all bolts to 60 N·m (6.1 kgf-m, 44.3 ft-lb) in alphabetical order. (9) Retighten all bolts by 80 — 90° in alphabetical order. (10) Retighten all bolts by 40 — 45° in alphabetical order. CAUTION: The tightening angle of the bolt should not exceed 45°. (11) Retighten bolts (a) and (b) by 40 — 45°. CAUTION: Make sure the total “tightening angle” of steps (10) and (11) does not exceed 90°.

i originally used the old spec: Maybe that was the issue:
. Torque All to 22 Ft Lbs
2. Torque all to 51 Ft Lbs
3. Loosen all 180 degrees
4. Loosen all 180 degrees
5. Torque Center Two bolts to 25 Ft Lbs
6. Torque Outer 4 bolts to 11 Ft Lbs
7. Tighten all bolts 90 degrees
8. Tighten all bolts 90 degrees again

Thanks for your responses

 

I'm not using the new Black bolts

 

About ready to give up on this car. So HGs are good to go, engine runs like a champ and the gurgle from behind the dash is gone. Took it for a 20 minute test drive and drove fine got home and let idle for 5 min and leak at radiator not sure yet where. Only thought is over pressure or blockage. Fans weren't running but they do cycle. May be its give up and trade it out. I've never been beat by a motor but this ones kicking my ass

 

Spoke to soon wasn't' leaking coolant but had a cracked transmission cooler hose, easy all is good , thanks to all who had responses, think I'm home free for now

 

That's good news, glad you figured it out.

 

Old thread, but wanted to comment...I replaced an engine in a 2012 Legacy as it was my brother's car and he had the head gasket replaced after a bout of overheating...rebuilt engine ordered from Arizona, sent the wrong one, sent back, got the right engine...check engine light comes on first day...gas cap issue...whew!...then...yes, I have a scanner running full time in the car as there is no temp gauge on the dash...overheats...this car has a new radiator as part of trying to trouble shoot the overheating from before with the failed head gasket replacement...or so I thought...started running it with no thermostat...got tired of the constant light up of the dashboard with the check engine light and seeing the code telling me the engine is not running hot enough...so...I have a different mechanic install a new thermostat...this is the fourth thermostat and it is NOT from Subaru...overheats again...(I have used two Subaru thermostats...both overheating still...so this time, I bypass the heater core. AND IT NEVER OVERHEATS NOW. Just tried to flush the heater core and re-connected it...overheats when AC is turned on and a very hot day...today, bypassed heater core again and it sits in the 208-215 range depending on if the AC is on or not. I am going to call it a day. Looking into a dashboard mounted defroster that plugs into the cigarette lighter. I just wanted to put it out there that the heater core can be an issue...one of my mechanics says the heater core has nothing to do with it overheating..I beg to differ.