You won't know for sure until you do some more discovery work. The easy way out would obviously be taking it to the dealer but if you're up for some DIY work here's what I would do if I were you:

1. Get a scanner that can read the TCU codes (they're using a Subaru specific protocol and won't get pulled with a standard OBD2 scanner). Cheapest if using an Android device (phone, tablet, Chromebook or whatever you have on hand) with bluetooth capabilities, install the free ActiveOBD app and buy the $50 OBDLink II LX bluetooth enabled scanner (which can read Subaru's protocol).

2. Pull the codes and research them through the Factory Service Manual (several of us have it here if you just want to post the result)

3. Regardless, I'd do a fluid level check and I'd probably also go ahead and do a fluid drain-and-fill. Consider sending a sample of the old fluid in to a lab (Blackstone or other) for analysis.

Fluid level check is done with engine running and fully warmed up, car level surface, crank open the fill plug and the fluid should be level with the fill plug hole bottom. Drain and fill follows the same principle essentially but is obviously more involved. There's a writeup on this site, but since you have a 2013 I would slap a big caution on that writeup: The CVT instructions are appropriate for your model year, but the diff instructions are not. Your rear diff has different fill/drain plugs and your front diff, importantly, has a DIFFERENT FILL LOCATION. We have seen more than one example of someone assuming 2013/2014 has the same setup as 2010-2012 and ended up dumping a bunch of gear oil into the CVT and left the front diff dry. Big, bad, expensive mistake.

 

UPDATE:

Had it in the shop and no codes came up. The fluid level is ok and looked fine.

The next few days after the inspection I attempted to drive to NY from KY and about 50 miles into the trip the AT temp light came on and then proceeded to flash and the car surged a bit. Pulled off the road, turned the engine off for a few minutes and drove back home with the light still on but not flashing. The car was behaving normal. No surging. As soon as pulled off the exit ramp the light went off. Very frustrating as I can't get the light to come on for the mechanics. I guess my next course of action is taking it in to my Subie dealer. Ugh.

 

Had it in the shop and no codes came up.

Unless the shop had an enhanced scanner capable of pulling Subaru specific codes, they wouldn't be able to access any transmission codes as those are not standard OBD2 codes a normal scanner can pull.

 

I'd guess your CVT fluid has not been changed. I'd recommend that for peace of mind. Personally, for my peace of mind, I service the CVT fluid on the severe service schedule.
There's a transmission fluid cooler built into the radiator. As part of the CVT fluid change, you might also flush/blow out that cooler to make sure it's doing its job properly.
And as OBDad said, the only way to get transmission codes is with the an OBD reader that can read the Subaru unique data codes. The transmission is not part of the universal standard OBD.

 

Do you do this at the dealership, or do it yourself? I'll have to ask if the dealership includes the cooler flush.

 

I'm blessed to have a good dealer with competent service people locally, so I'd go there. I'm also kinda leery of the whole CVT thing--first experience with this type transmission.

 

The CVT now has an extended warranty.

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums#/topics/429161

 

UPDATE: Finally got took it to the dealer for a diagnosis and came up with a failed valve body. It's being covered by the 100k warranty SoA just announced. I'm just perplexed on how and why this has happened on a CVT with 81k.

 

I am having the same problem with the AT Oil Temp light coming on after I've been driving on the interstate for at least an hour at speeds about 75mph. I've taken it to two dealerships now, and they can't diagnose the problem because the light always turns off by the time I get to a dealership. I'm frustrated to say the least, and about to take a 14 hour road trip to Montana with my kids with a lot of camping gear stored on top in a box. Real_deal, what dealership was finally able to diagnose the problem for you? I'd like to try and have the one here in Golden, CO call them up and talk to them about what they figured out. My 2014 outback already has 95,000 miles on it because of all the driving I have to do for work.

 

I have a 2004 Subaru Forester. I'm the original owner. Excellent car. Recently, a new light came on and the engine stalled. The red light was located on the lower right side of the speedometer/tach area indicating AT temp, or something like that. Nobody seems to know what that is. After restarting the car, it runs great and no such light appears. Until randomly later. It only happens when the car is idling at an intersection, never underway. Thoughts?

 

Hi Richbrauer. Welcome to the site. I have two thoughts.

1. Post your request on the proper site. This is for 2010-2014 years.

2. Start a new thread instead of tacking it on one that isn't relevent.

 

What Dealership Fixed This?

Hi real_deal, glad you got yours fixed. I'm having the exact same problem with my 2013 Outback. I took mine in to my dealership and they recommended I change out the CVT fluid at my expense ($300), but they don't guarantee that will fix the issue. I have 85K. Any suggestions on how to convince them to fix this for me?

 

What Dealership Fixed This?

Hi real_deal, glad you got yours fixed. I'm having the exact same problem with my 2013 Outback. I took mine in to my dealership and they recommended I change out the CVT fluid at my expense ($300), but they don't guarantee that will fix the issue. I have 85K. Any suggestions on how to convince them to fix this for me?

Hi I’m having the same issues with a 2014 OB 2.5i. Light comes on the freeway after 40+ mins. I’ve had CVT fluid changed but problem persists.

 

I am having the same issue. did you ever get yours fixed?

 

Did you fix the issue? Having same problem w 2014 OB 2.5i Limited.

 

My first suspicion is at fluid quality being poor. At 60k when I had mine drain fill service it was dark in color and the cvt was noticeably smoother and quieter. Given my use pattern I would expect cvt failure at 100,000 without doing the CVT fluid at 60k.

 

Odd as it might be the other cars Im familiar with having failed selinoids were all cars that never had AT fluid serviced before 100,000.

My cvt is at 103,000 zero issues but I do plan on having my dealer do a drain fill between now and 120,000.

 

FYI Subaru Canada now requires CVTF changes at 100 kilometers (about 60k miles)

 

Sounds like you may have reached the load/speed/temp combo to trigger it.
At 80K I'd probably change the fluid anyway, but the same conditions might trigger the same result, regardless. Nice that the light is there. It may be operating exactly as designed.

 

I joined the forum recently because I'm helping my daughter buy a 2013. She got one yesterday with 114k on it. About 40 miles off the lot (after purchase) the AT Temp light came on. Same experience as others. No code at AutoZone or when the light is off. Came back again shortly after. Similar weather conditions as OP, but the car wasn't loaded down.

The dealer will have a transmission shop work on it Monday. I've shared this thread with them to illustrate that the problem can be elusive, so they need to extend their responsibility until it's resolved. So far they're being good about it.

I think you all have answered most of the questions. I'm just adding this as another data point. I'll check back in when this all plays out. Thanks for your help!

 

I joined the forum recently because I'm helping my daughter buy a 2013. She got one yesterday with 114k on it. About 40 miles off the lot (after purchase) the AT Temp light came on. Same experience as others. No code at AutoZone or when the light is off. Came back again shortly after. Similar weather conditions as OP, but the car wasn't loaded down.

The dealer will have a transmission shop work on it Monday. I've shared this thread with them to illustrate that the problem can be elusive, so they need to extend their responsibility until it's resolved. So far they're being good about it.

I think you all have answered most of the questions. I'm just adding this as another data point. I'll check back in when this all plays out. Thanks for your help!

Update: The transmission shop found significant metal shavings in the fluid. The fluid is changed but they are saying it needs a new transmission. The dealer is buying the car back, no strings. Bullet: dodged.

 

I am at 115k miles on 2013. Last weekend the AT light came on solid while driving 80mph on I-95 in GA. Not blinking, just solid, and no other dash lights. Pulled over on the side of the interstate and the light went out after a couple minutes per the manual recommendation. Got back on the road and drove another 2 hours at 70mph and the light never came on. Drove 4 hours back a few days later at 75-80mph and no light. Added a few more days of mixed city/hwy driving in and still no light. So this happened just once and not again and no other symptoms. Have an appt with the dealer for a drain and fill tomorrow and they quoted ~$200 ($225 - 10% coupon) to do it. I don't think (hoping not) this is the valve body issue since the light wasn't blinking, no other lights were on, and it only happened once a week ago and over 400 miles ago.

 

During drop off Monday, they offered to crack the pan and do all the fluid for $400, but I stuck with just the drain and fill for $200. Dealer changed my fluid and said it didn't look that bad and I really should be good for life going forward. Do not really notice any difference in the performance.

 

Welp - issue returned... Gen 4 - The dreaded "flashing BRAKE, flashing AT...

 

I'm in Louisville ky and my 2011 summary outback is doing the same thing. Any updates?

 

make dealers fixes it's a solenoid problems and they know! it is supposed to be a recal about this event happen to all 2010 and 2014 all subaru outback 2.5 and other subaru!

 

did you ever figure it out? my car is doing the same thing and i don’t know what to do

 

The valve body was failing and replaced under the 100k mile CVT warranty. This was for my 2013 2.5i that I let go 5 years ago.