I'd use what's paid for!

 

Syl-Glide. Silicone based grease. Known issue with many other lubes swelling the boots, binding the caliper slide pins.

 

Thank you. Binding slide pins is what I definitely don't want.

Looks like the Permatex 24129 could work:

Permatex® Silicone Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, .5 OZ - Permatex

www.permatex.com

Do you know what type of grease they would have used when the car was built? I'm going with OEM pads and rotors because I figured if they've lasted 120K miles and 15 years until now, why not try to get the same stuff.

 

+1 on silicone-based grease (PDMS) for elastomer compatibility. CRC has one called Silaramic that I've been using.

 

If the CRC is the brownish colored one, I recommend NOT using it. Years ago, CRC sold it in pails. The stuff would gum and get hard in cold weather. If it is the clear stuff, good to go.

Syl-Glide is very popular in the garages. It just works. Wal-Marx sells it in a tube relabeled AC-Delco brand for cheap. I've moved onto Permatex Dielectric Grease. It does the same thing. It's slightly thicker and doesn't get as runny on hot components. I can use one tube of smooze for two different tasks.

Here's a write up of stuff that I had issues with over the years.

Caliper: Stick With OEM (used) or go with Aftermarket? (New)

I mentioned when I first signed up here that I'd need calipers, but was told that, "these are bulletproof, so there's no need to change them." Well lo and behold, my mechanic mentioned to me when it was in for HGs, that both front calipers had seized again (like they were 9 months earlier) and...

www.subaruoutback.org

 

If the CRC is the brownish colored one, I recommend NOT using it. Years ago, CRC sold it in pails. The stuff would gum and get hard in cold weather. If it is the clear stuff, good to go.

Syl-Glide is very popular in the garages. It just works. Wal-Marx sells it in a tube relabeled AC-Delco brand for cheap. I've moved onto Permatex Dielectric Grease. It does the same thing. It's slightly thicker and doesn't get as runny on hot components. I can use one tube of smooze for two different tasks.

Here's a write up of stuff that I had issues with over the years.

Caliper: Stick With OEM (used) or go with Aftermarket? (New)

I mentioned when I first signed up here that I'd need calipers, but was told that, "these are bulletproof, so there's no need to change them." Well lo and behold, my mechanic mentioned to me when it was in for HGs, that both front calipers had seized again (like they were 9 months earlier) and...

www.subaruoutback.org

In that thread I posted a picture of Niglube RX-2, called for in the service manual. It's hard to find but the Toyota-branded equivalent is easily available under p/n 08887-01206. Then again, the list of recommended materials indicates that the rubber grease can be replaced by 3M silicone paste. I did also use that, and Syl-Glyde, with good results.

 

Is there any reason why antiseize would or could not be used?

 

The carrier on antiseize (AS) is lithium grease. Two issues happen with lithium grease in high heat applicaitons like brakes. 1st, the lithium burns off and smokes. 2nd, the lithium burns off and leaves the dry powdered metal components, beit nickle, graphite, or copper. AS is great in a high torque application like a fastener nut/bolt. You put something together that you want to "not move", but you can still take it apart in 4 years or 40kmiles in the salt belt. As for brakes, as soon as you burn off the lithum, the metal powder gums up and sliding components no longer move. AS is there just to keep threads from binding. It sucks as a lubricant.

 

Had a lot of projects going today and have the brakes in progress. Found some Sil Glyde. I used the M8 1.25 bolt trick to get the rotor loose and partly off but it’s hanging on something and not wanting to come off. Those caliper bracket bolts are a pita if you’re working on jack stands.

I think I got my money’s worth out of these pads.

 

@Toad442 , Thanks for the information. I did not know all of that until now.

 

I picked up an unrelated part from the dealership and just out of curiosity asked the parts counter guy what the service department uses for the slide pins. Here’s what he showed me.

I passed on his price of $42 to buy one.

I mentioned earlier that the rotor wasn’t coming off so tonight I’m going to try turning the parking brake shoes inward per this thread.
rotor stuck

 

Holy smokes! $42 dollars? Are you taking your car to Rolls Royce for service?

Gotta Autozone near you?

https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/dielectric-grease/p/permatex-dielectric-tune-up-grease-3oz/34495_0_0

$8.99 for 3 oz.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

Syl-Glide at Advanced.

I don't like tubs. You loose 1/4 of the product due to a brush that is too short, and the brush pick up dirt and contaminates the tub.

 

Yeah the $42 at the Subaru dealership was ridiculous, hence why I passed on it. One can find that same stuff for half the price elsewhere. I was only there because I had to pick up a couple of sun visor clips I had ordered in.

Earlier in the thread I mentioned having the dielectric on hand but was worried it might be too viscous, anyway I bought the Sil-Glyde from Advance and plan to use that.

I agree about the tubs, a squeeze tube is better for this type of thing.

 

....anyway I bought the Sil-Glyde from Advance and plan to use that.

I've used a few different types of grease for caliper rebuilds, including the two types of OEM grease that comes with their rebuild kits. For a long time I've read about several people swearing by sil-glyde, so on my last caliper rebuild I went ahead and tried it. I'll tell you, sil-glyde is awesome. Very high heat tolerance, it's easy to work with and apply, and so far it's holding up extremely well. Gotta say that I'm onboard the sil-glyde hype train, myself - I'll always recommend it after using it.

Let us know how things turn out.

 

You can find the Permatex that your dealer uses for $19.99. Considering it will last over many brake jobs its not a bad investment.

Amazon.com: Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz., Pack of 1 : Everything Else

Amazon.com: Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz., Pack of 1 : Everything Else

www.amazon.com

 

Here is what I bought several years ago and it has worked good for me. If I ever run out I might try the Permatex your dealer uses.

 

I have one of those CRC tubs as well. Ironically, I bought it for the brush thinking one less hassle, but have decided I won't buy it for that reason again. I end up applying to a toothbrush to apply to the parts anyway. For about $7 at an Autozone however, it is worth it. I may check this Sylglide out myself next time I need some.
@RobertD , Is that your engine picker in the back ground?

 

@RobertD , Is that your engine picker in the back ground?

I guess my backhoe in the background would make a good engine picker.

 

For people who use Sil-Glyde are you using the brake specific product, or the multi-purpose?

Search: 14 results found for "sil glyde"

AGS Company Automotive Solutions

www.agscompany.com

 

Brake specific for me.

 

I'm not sure what benefits there are of any for the "ceramic" formulations but AGS who makes Syl-Glyde also make a ceramic silicone version as well called Cerami Glyde. 🤷‍♂️ Ceramic is such a buzz word these days - next there will be a graphene formula.

Cerami-Glyde Silicone Brake Lubricant, Tube, 8 oz

Cerami-Glyde 8 oz Brake Lubricant is a silicone-based brake lubricant with ceramic solid additives formulated to reduce brake noise in the most extreme conditions and temperatures. Works with both ceramic and metallic brake pads and is safe for use on all parts (including EPDM and Nitrile...

www.agscompany.com

 

Ceramic is such a buzz word these days

They come and go don't they? I remember when HD and 3D were big and they were talking about toothpaste.
Ceramic solid additives eh? So we're adding heated and ground clay to our lubricants now? It makes sense on pads, but as a lubricant? I don't know. If graphite is a good dry lubricant because it is so fine of a powder, maybe dried clay is too.

 

It appears that regular Sil Glyde works up to 425F and the Ceramic version claims 3000F (molten iron?)

 

Two things about this.
Ceramic can hold molten iron. It has got to be handled somehow right? It is what they use for atmospheric re-entry heat shields, so I can see the temperature withstands parameters being true.
However, if brakes are getting anywhere near 3000°F, well, you said it with "Molten Iron". There isn't going to be much more than the pads to lubricate.

 

For reference, DOT3 brake fluid boils at 400F so regular Sil Glyde is fine unless you're doing racing and have special brake fluid for red hot brakes.

 

I worked on this last night and eventually got the old rotors off; I did have to adjust the parking brake shoes inwards.

Used Sil-Glyde on the caliper slide pins and pad plates, and used the included copper colored grease on the OEM pad clips. Ran out of time so haven't done a test drive or bedding in the pads yet. Since I had the rear wheels off anyway I took the opportunity to take the winter wheels off, still need to swap the front winters off. Once that's done I can take it for a drive.

Thanks for the advice!

ETA: Got up early this morning and swapped the front winter wheels off. Took it easy driving through the neighborhood and brakes seemed to be working great, so I drove it to work. No more screeching brake squealer and all seems well