I assume they mean this thing...

This is the camshaft cap. It bolts onto the rest of the head, holding the camshaft in place.

Here is the head with the cam, without the cam cap...

And here it is with the camp cap installed....

If you look closely at the very first pic, you'll notice a bead of grey RTV sealant around the perimeter of the cap. If that sealant breaks down it will start to leak oil - I assume that's what your shop is referring to.

If they replaced a bunch of gaskets, including the cam plugs, cam seals, and valve cover gaskets, then they most likely didn't reseal the cam cap. It's a relatively big job (compared to those other seals) and normally one wouldn't mess with it unless you pull heads off and take out the camshafts from each head.

But....there are other oil leaks that will collect around the cam caps on the bottom of each head, and it really looks like a cam cap leak, even though it's from something else. I just find it hard to believe that they weren't leaking at all before their work, and now after they replaced the cam plugs and other gaskets it's suddenly now leaking so bad that you actually see oil drippage after being parked? Ugh. I'm sorry. I would be frustrated as well.

 

So I noticed you put sealant not in the channels but above them? In the middle of doing this and wanted to know the correct spot

 

Thank you for those pics. I’m a very visual learner and they were really helpful. I wish I was able to do this kind of thing myself, but it’s way outta my league.

I find it hard to believe that neither cam carrier were leaking before, and now suddenly one side is. But I can’t prove it.

It’s a very minor leak, but it bothers me! I also get a gross smell from it. From the sound of it, it’s a super big job to reseal and wouldn’t be worth doing because of the labor costs involved. I’m wanting to replace the O2 sensors, but I’m hesitant because oil blows back onto it. I’m not sure how to proceed.

 

This is an H6?

I've had high miles H6 of this gen in the shop and the camshaft cap hasn't leaked. There's an 05 R Sedan at my house with 163k miles, no leaks.

Are they sure it's the camshaft cap?

Is the PCV valve clean?

 

This is an H6?

I've had high miles H6 of this gen in the shop and the camshaft cap hasn't leaked. There's an 05 R Sedan at my house with 163k miles, no leaks.

Are they sure it's the camshaft cap?

Is the PCV valve clean?

Yep, it’s an H6 with 217k miles on the clock. They put it on the lift and let it run for an hr. They said the only spot that was leaking was from where the cam carrrier bolts to the head— on the passenger side.

PCV valve/hoses/clamps were replaced 17K miles ago (in February) and we just cleaned the PCV valve a couple weeks ago when we changed the oil. It was fine, but I clean it every other oil change.

It’s not worth resealing the cam carriers with the cost of labor to do it. It would be cheaper to just drop a JDM engine in it. I’m gonna practically have a new car by the time I’m done with everything! New transmission. New radio. New alternator. New power steering pump. New struts/shocks/springs. New rotors/pads/calipers. New tires. I’m about to reseal the passenger side doors because the weatherstripping is shot and the cabin is too noisy! I’ll do the other side and the window gussets in the near future.

I’ve gotten a P1155 and P0174 (not currently, but the O2 sensors are original) and wanted to replace all of them with Denso ones, but would that be stupid since oil is blowing back onto the front ones?

I love my car, but it is starting to make me mad!

 

The 6-cyl. engine does not have cam carriers. The shop might be referring to the inner timing cover, which is still not worthwhile to reseal.

 

Is that a cam cap? Like what cardoc was calling it?

 

Number 35 is the valve cover, or cam cover.

Could be leaking from number 21 which is the gasket for the AVCS block where the oil control solenoid goes in number 19.

The other side is the same except the oil control solenoid is on the front of the motor and the block for the bank one side is different.

If you could snap some pictures and post them up I can probably tell you where the oil's coming from.

 

View attachment 577831

Number 35 is the valve cover, or cam cover.

Could be leaking from number 21 which is the gasket for the AVCS block where the oil control solenoid goes in number 19.

The other side is the same except the oil control solenoid is on the front of the motor and the block for the bank one side is different.

If you could snap some pictures and post them up I can probably tell you where the oil's coming from.

Is 21 on the passenger side? I never could see where it was leaking from. I just saw it dripping underneath the car.

 

21 is driver side block gasket.

13 and 32 are end caps. Those could have cracked RTV and leak.

 

21 is driver side block gasket.

13 and 32 are end caps. Those could have cracked RTV and leak.

It’s only leaking on the passenger side. I’m just not sure exactly what to take a pic of and it’s freezing outside! 🥶

 

This probably isn’t helpful, but this is where the drips land.

 

When/if the sun is helpful with temps, try to take a pic of the top, back, side and front of the head and valve cover. Also look at the oil cooler/filter area.

Judging from that pic it's something like the valve cover or it's being blown backwards.

 

I just ran it for 20 minutes and it’s leaking from here.

 

@Mountaingurl - I am sorry, I had assumed you had an H4 powered Outback. Please forget everything I said because it doesn't apply to the H6! 🤐


You posted a good picture. Seems like the valve cover to me, but I'll let people who actually have worked on an H6 give you the correct answer so I don't make a fool out of myself again.

 

No worries, man! I can’t imagine it being THAT different. Or, is it?! 🤣

ETA: @Toddasaurus, I understand your mind is probably not right due to it being the holidays and everything. You didn’t make a fool of yourself. You’re human. Lol.
I’ve walked that road. I was a widow at 26 with a 4 and 5 year old. It was Unbearable in the beginning, but with time - the wounds began to heal. You’ll be in my prayers.

 

My 3.0 engine leaks very slowly at the same place, the right-hand valve cover. Good thing it doesn't leak on the left because that side is considerably harder to fix. The oil seen in the photo could still originate from the VVT housing/solenoid/pressure switch mounted to the rear of the head as @cardoc is saying.

 

Interesting. It must be a weak spot?
What does the VVT housing/solenoid/pressure switch look like? Have a pic? That way I know what to clean off and check.

 

Also, I just noticed this. Is it bad? We replaced all the ignition coil pigtail harnesses. It looks like a chunk of plastic broke off?

 

That wire touching the exhaust does not belong there. The only single-wire connection I can think of is at the oil pressure switch, the one for the warning light, at the upper oil pan below the head. It must be misrouted. The pair of indentations is from the plastic routing clip inserted into a blind hole at the front of the head.

 

oh, dang! I didn’t even notice that wire!

 

#2 & 3 in the diagram is the AVCS solenoid and block for the passenger side. That gasket can be replaced with the engine in the car. If it's coming from the solenoid there's an o-ring on the solenoid.

So much for "resealing the engine".

That green wire in your last pic is the oil pressure sensor wire. The sensor is just above the oil filter/cooler. They may have the harness on that side pulled a bit tight where a bracket holds the harness to the valve cover.

 

#2 & 3 in the diagram is the AVCS solenoid and block for the passenger side. That gasket can be replaced with the engine in the car. If it's coming from the solenoid there's an o-ring on the solenoid.

So much for "resealing the engine".

That green wire in your last pic is the oil pressure sensor wire. The sensor is just above the oil filter/cooler. They may have the harness on that side pulled a bit tight where a bracket holds the harness to the valve cover.

Okay. After dinner, we're gonna go outside and take some pics before it gets colder. How can we tell if the solenoid is leaking or gasket is leaking? Should I see it dripping? Should I let the engine run again? And, sigh... yeah... they didn't mention anything about those two things needing to be re-sealed. Would we be wise to just go ahead and replace the gasket and o-ring? Is the valve cover leaking? Because they replaced that valve cover gasket. Okay, we'll move that wire.

 

The pic in post 14 - I believe that's the valve cover leaking.

The pics of the solenoids don't show fresh, wet oil.

The pic with the oil filter looks like either the front cover is leaking, the oil filter cooler gasket, or the oil filter isn't on tight.

There's pressure going in to the cooler and filter so it could spray/spit oil out.

Get a spray can of brake clean or carb cleaner and clean all the oil from around the filter and cooler. Then start it and watch.

Or make the shop do it. I assume they have heat. Point out all the areas you see the oil.

Something to note on RTV usage for gaskets. It's always best to let the RTV sit for hours to cure prior to putting oil in the engine and running it. If it's cold in the shop, 24 hours.

 

The pic in post 14 - I believe that's the valve cover leaking.

The pics of the solenoids don't show fresh, wet oil.

The pic with the oil filter looks like either the front cover is leaking, the oil filter cooler gasket, or the oil filter isn't on tight.

There's pressure going in to the cooler and filter so it could spray/spit oil out.

Get a spray can of brake clean or carb cleaner and clean all the oil from around the filter and cooler. Then start it and watch.

Or make the shop do it. I assume they have heat. Point out all the areas you see the oil.

Something to note on RTV usage for gaskets. It's always best to let the RTV sit for hours to cure prior to putting oil in the engine and running it. If it's cold in the shop, 24 hours.

So, that means the solenoids probably aren’t leaking, then? Right?

If it’s the valve cover, then they have to fix it because they replaced the gasket on that side. They also replaced the oil cooler gasket and ‘sealed’ the timing cover. 🙄 Looks like Sandy subie will be getting ‘re-sealed’. I’m almost due for an oil change anyway, but my oil won’t be delivered until Friday. I use Idemitsu 5W30.

The shop has heat. My carport does not! It’s 25 degrees outside. I’ll be calling them when they open. I’m no fool! 😂

About the RTV, so if the timing cover is leaking, they’d drain the oil and need to wait hours after putting it on before putting more oil in the car? Do you think they didn’t wait long enough and that’s why I’m having these issues?

How tight should the oil filter be? Should I just go out there real quick and hand tighten it?

I really appreciate your help. They’re good people at the shop, but I don’t want to go there looking dumb.

 

The rear timing cover and the front timing cover have to be dry with out any oil on them before they're joined back together. They need to be using a high torque RTV like 3M Ultra Black or Ultra Gray. The cure times vary on the ambient temperature in the shop. So if it is the RTV is leaking there is either a spot where the RTV got moved when the cover was put on and it's not sealing good in that area or it's because it didn't cure because oil was put in too early and the oil seaps through.

The oil filter has to be screwed on fairly hand tight. And that banjo bolt that holds the cooler on to the engine needs to be tightened down pretty good; I think the torque on it's like 18 ft pounds. But they should have access to the specs.

 

The rear timing cover and the front timing cover have to be dry with out any oil on them before they're joined back together. They need to be using a high torque RTV like 3M Ultra Black or Ultra Gray. The cure times vary on the ambient temperature in the shop. So if it is the RTV is leaking there is either a spot where the RTV got moved when the cover was put on and it's not sealing good in that area or it's because it didn't cure because oil was put in too early and the oil seaps through.

The oil filter has to be screwed on fairly hand tight. And that banjo bolt that holds the cooler on to the engine needs to be tightened down pretty good; I think the torque on it's like 18 ft pounds. But they should have access to the specs.

Just cleaned it up and have it running now. The filter was tight.

The rear timing cover and the front timing cover have to be dry with out any oil on them before they're joined back together. They need to be using a high torque RTV like 3M Ultra Black or Ultra Gray. The cure times vary on the ambient temperature in the shop. So if it is the RTV is leaking there is either a spot where the RTV got moved when the cover was put on and it's not sealing good in that area or it's because it didn't cure because oil was put in too early and the oil seaps through.

The oil filter has to be screwed on fairly hand tight. And that banjo bolt that holds the cooler on to the engine needs to be tightened down pretty good; I think the torque on it's like 18 ft pounds. But they should have access to the specs.

Here's where I saw fresh oil. The only two places I'm not 100% sure about are the solenoid by the firewall and the oil cooler. What do you think? And, can bolts leak?

 

Valve cover for sure. Front timing cover, yes. Did they remove the chains and reseal the rear timing cover? One of you pics is either oil running back to the rear cover bolt, or the RTV for it is starting to leak.

When oil appears on a bolt head and not the seam for the parts it's joining, it getting through because the RTV wasn't applied properly.

The oil pan is also RTV. Another area that needs to cure before oil hits it.

 

Valve cover for sure. Front timing cover, yes. Did they remove the chains and reseal the rear timing cover? One of you pics is either oil running back to the rear cover bolt, or the RTV for it is starting to leak.

When oil appears on a bolt head and not the seam for the parts it's joining, it getting through because the RTV wasn't applied properly.


The oil pan is also RTV. Another area that needs to cure before oil hits it.

Yes, the rear timing cover was ‘resealed’.
Okay,thanks. I didn’t know they could leak at the bolts.

Does it look like the oil cooler pipe is leaking?

What’s the area that’s leaking where I have the 3 arrows? It’s leaking in those 3 spots.

Oh, and what’s the most accurate way to check the oil?

 

All of the arrows looks like oil from the front and rear timing chain cover.

Can't tell if the oil cooler pipe is leaking. That pipe is for coolant. Looks like possibly oil from the front cover dripping on it.

Checking the oil level is after the engine has run, either short time or long, and wait 3-5 minutes after shut down. Pull the stick, wipe, reinsert, and pull to get the measurement.

 

Okay. They really did a crummy job of sealing my engine. I called the shop (Fahey’s) and will bring the car in after Christmas since I’m getting the transmission put in at a different shop (they wouldn’t put it in), next week. I think the tech is just inexperienced, but the owners are good people and will make this right. This is a subie independent shop.

Doh. I thought oil went through that pipe. Lolz.

Got it. I’m going to be extra on top of my oil level.

Last thing, should I wait to put in the O2 sensors because of all the oil leaking and blowing back?

Thanks for helping me ☺

 

You can wait on the sensors. Or, while the exhaust is down for the trans, ask the shop if they can make shields to keep oil off the wires at the sensor. Something that can be installed/removed with the sensor, or something on the pipe that can make it easy to replace the sensors. This would also work out good for mud and debris. Anything that covers where the wires go into the sensor can affect sensor operation.

 

I’ll ask if he can make something. Should it be metal? I imagine it would get pretty hot being so close to the exhaust?

Should it cover just the part where the wires plug in?

Did you see any evidence of a camshaft cap leaking from all the pics?

 

Metal for a shield.

All I saw was the valve cover and timing cover leaks.

 

Dropped “Sandy” off at the shop. Tomorrow they are going to investigate her oil leaks.

What do I say, if they again claim it’s a cam cap leaking? I need a rebuttal.

How can you logically differentiate a cam cap leak from let’s say a valve cover, or timing cover?

ETA: How can you definitively rule out a cam cap leak? Without taking the car apart? Is running it on a lift with dye —enough? If not, what is?

 

Clean engine and then dye in the oil would help to find it while it's running on a lift. If it's driven prior to locating the leak, air flow will blow the oil/dye around.

I've got an 05 R and it's cam cap has not leaked after 165k miles.

Things around the cam cap that will leak are the valve covers, oil block gasket for the AVCS solenoid, the AVCS oil control solenoid seal, or an oil pipe banjo bolt crush washer.

Left side of this pic is the right side of the car.

13 and 32 are the cam shaft caps.
7 and 26 are the AVCS oil solenoids.
6 and 34 are the oil feed pipes.
2, 3, 4, 19, 20 and 21 are AVCS oil soilenoid, blocks and gaskets.

IF the cap is leaking, it can be repaired with the engine in the car. Uses RTV as a seal.

 

Clean engine and then dye in the oil would help to find it while it's running on a lift. If it's driven prior to locating the leak, air flow will blow the oil/dye around.

I've got an 05 R and it's cam cap has not leaked after 165k miles.

Things around the cam cap that will leak are the valve covers, oil block gasket for the AVCS solenoid, the AVCS oil control solenoid seal, or an oil pipe banjo bolt crush washer.

Left side of this pic is the right side of the car.

13 and 32 are the cam shaft caps.
7 and 26 are the AVCS oil solenoids.
6 and 34 are the oil feed pipes.
2, 3, 4, 19, 20 and 21 are AVCS oil soilenoid, blocks and gaskets.


View attachment 580703


View attachment 580704

IF the cap is leaking, it can be repaired with the engine in the car. Uses RTV as a seal.

Thanks, that’s good to know. She has 218k miles on the clock now. Maintenance history is unknown prior to me getting her at 130k miles.

Okay, so I should make sure they rule all those out?

HOW, can the cam cap be sealed while still in the vehicle? Steps? Tricks? Is it even worth doing?

I’m still waiting on the shop to call me with their diagnosis.

@cardoc can I call you, if I have any trouble or need your advice?

 

In the car, you take the radiator and fan assembly out of the way, take front cover off, remove the timing chains gears, take the rear cover off, take the valve cover off and then you can get to the cam cap.

I've got a 3 or engine sitting on a pallet in the shop. I'll make a video for you and post up the link after it gets downloaded to Google Drive.

I'll PM you my phone number.

 

In the car, you take the radiator and fan assembly out of the way, take front cover off, remove the timing chains gears, take the rear cover off, take the valve cover off and then you can get to the cam cap.

I've got a 3 or engine sitting on a pallet in the shop. I'll make a video for you and post up the link after it gets downloaded to Google Drive.

I'll PM you my phone number.

Thank you for helping save my sanity! 😁

 

I didn't forget. Spectrum Business wifi sucks and it keeps shutting down interrupting the upload.

 

Dude. That sucks! Aren’t you in a city? I thought the internet was supposed to be better in a city.

Thanks for letting me know. I hope it works soon. I’m still waiting to hear from the shop.