[avk]

That wire touching the exhaust does not belong there. The only single-wire connection I can think of is at the oil pressure switch, the one for the warning light, at the upper oil pan below the head. It must be misrouted. The pair of indentations is from the plastic routing clip inserted into a blind hole at the front of the head.

 

[Mountaingurl]

That wire touching the exhaust does not belong there. The only single-wire connection I can think of is at the oil pressure switch, the one for the warning light, at the upper oil pan below the head. It must be misrouted. The pair of indentations is from the plastic routing clip inserted into a blind hole at the front of the head.

oh, dang! I didn’t even notice that wire!

 

[cardoc]

#2 & 3 in the diagram is the AVCS solenoid and block for the passenger side. That gasket can be replaced with the engine in the car. If it's coming from the solenoid there's an o-ring on the solenoid.

So much for "resealing the engine".

That green wire in your last pic is the oil pressure sensor wire. The sensor is just above the oil filter/cooler. They may have the harness on that side pulled a bit tight where a bracket holds the harness to the valve cover.

 

[Mountaingurl]

#2 & 3 in the diagram is the AVCS solenoid and block for the passenger side. That gasket can be replaced with the engine in the car. If it's coming from the solenoid there's an o-ring on the solenoid.

So much for "resealing the engine".

That green wire in your last pic is the oil pressure sensor wire. The sensor is just above the oil filter/cooler. They may have the harness on that side pulled a bit tight where a bracket holds the harness to the valve cover.

Okay. After dinner, we're gonna go outside and take some pics before it gets colder. How can we tell if the solenoid is leaking or gasket is leaking? Should I see it dripping? Should I let the engine run again? And, sigh... yeah... they didn't mention anything about those two things needing to be re-sealed. Would we be wise to just go ahead and replace the gasket and o-ring? Is the valve cover leaking? Because they replaced that valve cover gasket. Okay, we'll move that wire.

 

[Mountaingurl]

#2 & 3 in the diagram is the AVCS solenoid and block for the passenger side. That gasket can be replaced with the engine in the car. If it's coming from the solenoid there's an o-ring on the solenoid.

So much for "resealing the engine".

That green wire in your last pic is the oil pressure sensor wire. The sensor is just above the oil filter/cooler. They may have the harness on that side pulled a bit tight where a bracket holds the harness to the valve cover.

I'm not sure if this top pic is needed, but it looks leaky? I don't know what it is!
I drove down to the mailbox and back. (.5 mile) I noticed oil to the right of the oil filter and it looks like there is some on the oil cooler?
It was hard to tell if there was any leaking in the other pic, but it is dirty.

I did the best I could. Does this help?

 

[cardoc]

The pic in post 14 - I believe that's the valve cover leaking.

The pics of the solenoids don't show fresh, wet oil.

The pic with the oil filter looks like either the front cover is leaking, the oil filter cooler gasket, or the oil filter isn't on tight.

There's pressure going in to the cooler and filter so it could spray/spit oil out.

Get a spray can of brake clean or carb cleaner and clean all the oil from around the filter and cooler. Then start it and watch.

Or make the shop do it. I assume they have heat. Point out all the areas you see the oil.

Something to note on RTV usage for gaskets. It's always best to let the RTV sit for hours to cure prior to putting oil in the engine and running it. If it's cold in the shop, 24 hours.

 

[Mountaingurl]

The pic in post 14 - I believe that's the valve cover leaking.

The pics of the solenoids don't show fresh, wet oil.

The pic with the oil filter looks like either the front cover is leaking, the oil filter cooler gasket, or the oil filter isn't on tight.

There's pressure going in to the cooler and filter so it could spray/spit oil out.

Get a spray can of brake clean or carb cleaner and clean all the oil from around the filter and cooler. Then start it and watch.

Or make the shop do it. I assume they have heat. Point out all the areas you see the oil.

Something to note on RTV usage for gaskets. It's always best to let the RTV sit for hours to cure prior to putting oil in the engine and running it. If it's cold in the shop, 24 hours.

So, that means the solenoids probably aren’t leaking, then? Right?

If it’s the valve cover, then they have to fix it because they replaced the gasket on that side. They also replaced the oil cooler gasket and ‘sealed’ the timing cover. 🙄 Looks like Sandy subie will be getting ‘re-sealed’. I’m almost due for an oil change anyway, but my oil won’t be delivered until Friday. I use Idemitsu 5W30.

The shop has heat. My carport does not! It’s 25 degrees outside. I’ll be calling them when they open. I’m no fool! 😂

About the RTV, so if the timing cover is leaking, they’d drain the oil and need to wait hours after putting it on before putting more oil in the car? Do you think they didn’t wait long enough and that’s why I’m having these issues?

How tight should the oil filter be? Should I just go out there real quick and hand tighten it?

I really appreciate your help. They’re good people at the shop, but I don’t want to go there looking dumb.

 

[cardoc]

The rear timing cover and the front timing cover have to be dry with out any oil on them before they're joined back together. They need to be using a high torque RTV like 3M Ultra Black or Ultra Gray. The cure times vary on the ambient temperature in the shop. So if it is the RTV is leaking there is either a spot where the RTV got moved when the cover was put on and it's not sealing good in that area or it's because it didn't cure because oil was put in too early and the oil seaps through.

The oil filter has to be screwed on fairly hand tight. And that banjo bolt that holds the cooler on to the engine needs to be tightened down pretty good; I think the torque on it's like 18 ft pounds. But they should have access to the specs.

 

[Mountaingurl]

The rear timing cover and the front timing cover have to be dry with out any oil on them before they're joined back together. They need to be using a high torque RTV like 3M Ultra Black or Ultra Gray. The cure times vary on the ambient temperature in the shop. So if it is the RTV is leaking there is either a spot where the RTV got moved when the cover was put on and it's not sealing good in that area or it's because it didn't cure because oil was put in too early and the oil seaps through.

The oil filter has to be screwed on fairly hand tight. And that banjo bolt that holds the cooler on to the engine needs to be tightened down pretty good; I think the torque on it's like 18 ft pounds. But they should have access to the specs.

Just cleaned it up and have it running now. The filter was tight.

The rear timing cover and the front timing cover have to be dry with out any oil on them before they're joined back together. They need to be using a high torque RTV like 3M Ultra Black or Ultra Gray. The cure times vary on the ambient temperature in the shop. So if it is the RTV is leaking there is either a spot where the RTV got moved when the cover was put on and it's not sealing good in that area or it's because it didn't cure because oil was put in too early and the oil seaps through.

The oil filter has to be screwed on fairly hand tight. And that banjo bolt that holds the cooler on to the engine needs to be tightened down pretty good; I think the torque on it's like 18 ft pounds. But they should have access to the specs.

Here's where I saw fresh oil. The only two places I'm not 100% sure about are the solenoid by the firewall and the oil cooler. What do you think? And, can bolts leak?

 

[cardoc]

Valve cover for sure. Front timing cover, yes. Did they remove the chains and reseal the rear timing cover? One of you pics is either oil running back to the rear cover bolt, or the RTV for it is starting to leak.

When oil appears on a bolt head and not the seam for the parts it's joining, it getting through because the RTV wasn't applied properly.

The oil pan is also RTV. Another area that needs to cure before oil hits it.

 

[Mountaingurl]

Valve cover for sure. Front timing cover, yes. Did they remove the chains and reseal the rear timing cover? One of you pics is either oil running back to the rear cover bolt, or the RTV for it is starting to leak.

When oil appears on a bolt head and not the seam for the parts it's joining, it getting through because the RTV wasn't applied properly.


The oil pan is also RTV. Another area that needs to cure before oil hits it.

Yes, the rear timing cover was ‘resealed’.
Okay,thanks. I didn’t know they could leak at the bolts.

Does it look like the oil cooler pipe is leaking?

What’s the area that’s leaking where I have the 3 arrows? It’s leaking in those 3 spots.

Oh, and what’s the most accurate way to check the oil?

 

[cardoc]

All of the arrows looks like oil from the front and rear timing chain cover.

Can't tell if the oil cooler pipe is leaking. That pipe is for coolant. Looks like possibly oil from the front cover dripping on it.

Checking the oil level is after the engine has run, either short time or long, and wait 3-5 minutes after shut down. Pull the stick, wipe, reinsert, and pull to get the measurement.

 

[Mountaingurl]

All of the arrows looks like oil from the front and rear timing chain cover.

Can't tell if the oil cooler pipe is leaking. That pipe is for coolant. Looks like possibly oil from the front cover dripping on it.

Checking the oil level is after the engine has run, either short time or long, and wait 3-5 minutes after shut down. Pull the stick, wipe, reinsert, and pull to get the measurement.

Okay. They really did a crummy job of sealing my engine. I called the shop (Fahey’s) and will bring the car in after Christmas since I’m getting the transmission put in at a different shop (they wouldn’t put it in), next week. I think the tech is just inexperienced, but the owners are good people and will make this right. This is a subie independent shop.

Doh. I thought oil went through that pipe. Lolz.

Got it. I’m going to be extra on top of my oil level.

Last thing, should I wait to put in the O2 sensors because of all the oil leaking and blowing back?

Thanks for helping me ☺

 

[cardoc]

You can wait on the sensors. Or, while the exhaust is down for the trans, ask the shop if they can make shields to keep oil off the wires at the sensor. Something that can be installed/removed with the sensor, or something on the pipe that can make it easy to replace the sensors. This would also work out good for mud and debris. Anything that covers where the wires go into the sensor can affect sensor operation.

 

[Mountaingurl]

You can wait on the sensors. Or, while the exhaust is down for the trans, ask the shop if they can make shields to keep oil off the wires at the sensor. Something that can be installed/removed with the sensor, or something on the pipe that can make it easy to replace the sensors. This would also work out good for mud and debris. Anything that covers where the wires go into the sensor can affect sensor operation.

I’ll ask if he can make something. Should it be metal? I imagine it would get pretty hot being so close to the exhaust?

Should it cover just the part where the wires plug in?

Did you see any evidence of a camshaft cap leaking from all the pics?

 

[cardoc]

Metal for a shield.

All I saw was the valve cover and timing cover leaks.

 

[Mountaingurl]

Dropped “Sandy” off at the shop. Tomorrow they are going to investigate her oil leaks.

What do I say, if they again claim it’s a cam cap leaking? I need a rebuttal.

How can you logically differentiate a cam cap leak from let’s say a valve cover, or timing cover?

ETA: How can you definitively rule out a cam cap leak? Without taking the car apart? Is running it on a lift with dye —enough? If not, what is?

 

[cardoc]

Clean engine and then dye in the oil would help to find it while it's running on a lift. If it's driven prior to locating the leak, air flow will blow the oil/dye around.

I've got an 05 R and it's cam cap has not leaked after 165k miles.

Things around the cam cap that will leak are the valve covers, oil block gasket for the AVCS solenoid, the AVCS oil control solenoid seal, or an oil pipe banjo bolt crush washer.

Left side of this pic is the right side of the car.

13 and 32 are the cam shaft caps.
7 and 26 are the AVCS oil solenoids.
6 and 34 are the oil feed pipes.
2, 3, 4, 19, 20 and 21 are AVCS oil soilenoid, blocks and gaskets.

IF the cap is leaking, it can be repaired with the engine in the car. Uses RTV as a seal.

 

[Mountaingurl]

Clean engine and then dye in the oil would help to find it while it's running on a lift. If it's driven prior to locating the leak, air flow will blow the oil/dye around.

I've got an 05 R and it's cam cap has not leaked after 165k miles.

Things around the cam cap that will leak are the valve covers, oil block gasket for the AVCS solenoid, the AVCS oil control solenoid seal, or an oil pipe banjo bolt crush washer.

Left side of this pic is the right side of the car.

13 and 32 are the cam shaft caps.
7 and 26 are the AVCS oil solenoids.
6 and 34 are the oil feed pipes.
2, 3, 4, 19, 20 and 21 are AVCS oil soilenoid, blocks and gaskets.


View attachment 580703


View attachment 580704

IF the cap is leaking, it can be repaired with the engine in the car. Uses RTV as a seal.

Thanks, that’s good to know. She has 218k miles on the clock now. Maintenance history is unknown prior to me getting her at 130k miles.

Okay, so I should make sure they rule all those out?

HOW, can the cam cap be sealed while still in the vehicle? Steps? Tricks? Is it even worth doing?

I’m still waiting on the shop to call me with their diagnosis.

@cardoc can I call you, if I have any trouble or need your advice?

 

[cardoc]

In the car, you take the radiator and fan assembly out of the way, take front cover off, remove the timing chains gears, take the rear cover off, take the valve cover off and then you can get to the cam cap.

I've got a 3 or engine sitting on a pallet in the shop. I'll make a video for you and post up the link after it gets downloaded to Google Drive.

I'll PM you my phone number.