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Check Engine - P0440 error Evap Emissions Malfunction

108K views 30 replies 16 participants last post by  Jainie  
#1 ·
Hi all,
I have a 1999 Outback S/W 95K. I bought it used and the head gasket was changed by previous owner at 86K. Shortly after buying it two months ago the check engine light went off. The code was P0440 - Evap Emissions Malfunction. After searching the internet and talking to mechanics I see it is a difficult problem to diagnose and correct. Any ideas or suggestions before I seek professional help (possibly for myself and the car) would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Bob K
 
#3 ·
sivart7208 I think you mean you have P0420?

P0440 basically means your fuel tank or related hoses and piping have a leak somewhere. Do you smell gasoline outside the vehicle at all? Probably won't if it's a small leak. Are there any other codes than just P0440?

Here's a few things to check. Make sure fuel filler cap is in good shape. Have it tested at a shop or just buy a new quality one for testing.

Check fuel filler pipe. On some Suby's (especially here in NY with all the salt!) the fuel filler pipe corrodes. See if there is a plastic 'cover' over your filler pipe in the wheel well. If so, remove the plastic cover and see if there's any serious corrosion of the filler pipe.

Those are the easiest things to check first. Other than that, there's a drain valve on the pack that could be having an issue. Purge control solenoid could be having issues. evap lines could be cracked. canister could be cracked or leaking. fuel tank could have a leak.

If the shop has a smoke machine that can detect small evap leaks that might be worth a shot. I've heard the smoke machines are very effective at finding leaks.
 
#4 ·
99 Outback Legacy/P0440

We are also having a problem with P0440 code. First, we changed the gascap...no go. Then the filler thingy was changed (costing over $500). After 72 miles, the light and code were back. At that point we were due for inspection. The computer was reset...I drove about 75 miles with no light appearing, had it inspected...it passed. At 282 miles, (I should never have thought about that darn light!) it came back on.

This is really frustrating....how could we even sell it, if we wanted to? It runs well otherwise...no noises, no odor of gas....just the smell of me fuming!

We also have a Forester but now I'm wondering if we'll ever buy another Subaru, even though we need it here in the Catskills.

Not happy Outback owner.

Freddi:(
 
#8 ·
We are also having a problem with P0440 code. First, we changed the gascap...no go. Then the filler thingy was changed (costing over $500). After 72 miles, the light and code were back. At that point we were due for inspection. The computer was reset...I drove about 75 miles with no light appearing, had it inspected...it passed. At 282 miles, (I should never have thought about that darn light!) it came back on.

This is really frustrating....how could we even sell it, if we wanted to? It runs well otherwise...no noises, no odor of gas....just the smell of me fuming!

We also have a Forester but now I'm wondering if we'll ever buy another Subaru, even though we need it here in the Catskills.

Not happy Outback owner.

Freddi:(
I am sympathetic. In my case the light does not come on. My 2001 Outback JUST WILL NOT PASS CALIFORNIA CODE INSPECTION even though it passed smog. I need three Passing grades vis-a-vis codes. I am blessed to have a technician (independent) who meticulously went over every code and component. After two days narrowed down the problem to EVAP Code 0440. He will keep the Outback this weekend and do the drive cycle.
 
#5 ·
Hi and :welcome2:

Check out this article: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EvapSpring04.pdf It has a good troubleshooting procedure. Replacing any part without first troubleshooting means the part replaced might not have been faulty. You just need to find a shop that knows how to troubleshoot and not just replace parts hoping it fixes the problem (can be hard to find a good shop these days). Someplace that has a good smoke machine for emissions leaks should be able to find the leak easily.
 
#6 ·
well first off let me say i understand the frustration troubleshooting evap codes, i'm doing it on my truck right now and these types of codes are without a doubt the most annoying thing i've dealt with on a car and i've dealt with a lot.

second i would say, don't blame the car. it's just doing what it's supposed to, telling you there is a problem. if you want to blame someone, blame the engineers who decided to have the vehicle throw specific codes even though the parts the codes reference have nothing to do with the problem.

here's an example;

my codes p0102 maf low voltage - did all the required tests for the wiring and pcm all check out- solution- replace maf ........ replaced maf - same code

p0443 purge solenoid low voltage did tests- replaced solenoid- same code

p0449 vent valve- low voltage - this is getting ridiculous ......... but wait..... my relocation bracket for my egr valve that's hidden under the blower is loose .... waiting on gaskets to see if that's my issue ................

basically to troubleshoot these issues you have to have complete understanding of how the parts all interact and the effect one can have on another. i know a few dealer mechanics and they actually do a lot of times just throw parts at these things because many times it's easier to just eliminate them as a problem, they also have access to these parts and don't have to pay if it doesn't work.

i'll let you know if the gaskets cure my problem, if so that may give you an idea of what to look for beyond the evap system.

sorry about the book, fortunately i can do my own testing and repairs so i save a few bucks, many can't and it's frustrating. you rely on a shop to not screw you and then ......... you get screwed. try to find a stand up shop that will guarantee their work, if you come back with the same code two days later they should admit they didn't fix the issue and credit you the cost toward the actual solution.
 
#7 ·
i know this thread is old im having the same troubles i was told by a mechanic i trust it was my fuel tank seam so i bought a new tank after a while it came back on and now it leaves me wondering what it could be i was told purge valve or canister. all lines seem to be good my filler neck is in great shape i dont smell gas/fumes anymore. idk where to turn and i dont wanna take it to a shop and advice would be great thanx in advance
 
#9 ·
I just got this code yesterday on a 1999 Outback Legacy. The car runs great. We recently moved to Colorado and had to pass an emissions test just two months ago. I'm curious what could have happened recently to cause this.

After reading these posts the obvious question comes up. What is the risk of not finding this issue?

This happens to be our primary family vehicle for now and want to be sure there isn't danger in driving it while we try to find the issue.

Any additional advice would be appreciated.
 
#31 ·
I just got this code yesterday on a 1999 Outback Legacy. The car runs great. We recently moved to Colorado and had to pass an emissions test just two months ago. I'm curious what could have happened recently to cause this. After reading these posts the obvious question comes up. What is the risk of not finding this issue? This happens to be our primary family vehicle for now and want to be sure there isn't danger in driving it while we try to find the issue. Any additional advice would be appreciated.
Well, before doing anything, if it runs fine and nothing else shows a code, try resetting the code and waiting. There are a handful of problems that throw an evap code. Basically its trying to tell you the evap cannister pressure doesn't fall to the engine intake manifold level, which is indicative of an evap cannister system leak. Okay, here's the alternative possible problem -- the sensing system itself is wrong giving you a false positive -- e.g., lying to you! This would occur if any of the electrical powering the sensor is wrong -- relay, connectors, sensor. If you smell no gas anywhere around the engine, that's got a high probability of being the problem. High but not certain. Going through the exact troubleshooting scheme is the only sure way to avoid hit and miss megabucks for parts. Sorry, that's just how it is. If your in an area where you can drive it with the code up, I would. Otherwise, good luck man! You're doing your part for the environment, and the world!
 
#11 ·
Well I found out that an idiot went and had the whole exhaust wielded together and I think I hear an exhaust leak, most likely at the wields so there's a possibility. The EVAP issue I have narrowed it down to near the filler pipe area because after getting home I was checking on something and got a hint of gas fumes by the right rear. I will be performing a check there when I get a day off.
 
#17 ·
No not yet. Only because I don't know which one I need to replace, the pump or the level sensor and I am not sure if the pump and level sensor are on one piece.

Oh and Cardoc, thanks for the feedback. You are the only one that seems to reply like you're curious about what I want to do and not saying that I'm stupid and telling me that I need to do this or that.
 
#18 ·
The level sensor is operated by potentiometer and lever with a float. It is attached to the main fuel pump on the passenger side of the tank. Sometimes, cleaning the rust from the lever and meter will allow it to work. It can be checked with an ohm meter after cleaning. Otherwise, Subaru parts. They may still offer the level sensor setup singular from the pump module.
 
#21 ·
Hi,
I just bought a used Subaru Legacy Brighton, '97. I filled up the gas tank and smelled gas fumes inside the car. I replaced the gas cap and that seemed to cut down on the inside smell, however the smell towards the back of the car still smelled. After drivng and using some gas, the smell went away. Now the CEL is on. Before I bought this car the light was on. I asked the owner to take it in to have it evaluated. He said it was an EVAP code and was probably the gas cap. This happened to be the case in my Honda and the light stayed off after replacing the cap. I am concerened that I wil be stuck with high repair costs on a car that I just bought. I also noticed yesterday that there was hesitation while the car shifted. Not sure if the problems are related. Help…..
 
#22 ·
One, welcome to the forums.

Two, are you in the rust belt or an area that uses salt on the roads for ice/snow? Check the filler neck at the spot it curves at the bottom. There is a plastic cover over it that tends to trap dirt/debris and will hold everything and cause the tube to rust out, leaking gas when you fill it up and allowing a leak from the system which causes a P0440 or other EVAP code.
 
#23 ·
I really hate this code! It is a huge p.i.t.a. At least I'm still getting 24mpg, I'm thinking a rusty filler neck/tube is to blame.
 
#27 ·
Well, while I was replacing the rear brakes I did find a busted ziptie (cable tie) on a vacuum line off the filler neck in a place of the compression hose clamp things. No success after replacing and making sure all connections are sealed. Going to trace the lines and look for cracks/leaks, some time... Grrrrrrrr I hate looking at​

CHECK
ENGINE

Ok, I checked it, yep it's still there!​
 
#24 ·
Where is this sensor located again. I have it coming on from time to time. I did replace the filler neck, but the code only came on a few months after I replaced it. I did notice that on the old filler neck... after I installed the new one that it (old neck) had a one way type of valve. Could that be throwing off the P440 code?
 
#25 ·
I guess you are referring to the 1999.
now in all your posts you will have to say which car
the 1999 or the new to you Bean?
 
#29 ·
That is what I'm thinking because I can clear the code with my handheld scan tool and later on 70-100 miles after clearing it, it comes back, which is, as you said, the next time the ecu runs the fuel system integrity test.