I always use Exedy clutch kits (flywheel, pressure plate, clutch, throw out bearing and spigot bearing). If you are changing from a dual mass flywheel to a solid flywheel Exedy also provide a genuine Subaru clutch fork.

Seagrass

 

subaru OEM,

or Aisin if they list one. (they maybe the OEM maker)

 

As far as I know (and again, excuse my ignorance if need be), Exedy is the OEM maker - but that doesn't mean they don't offer just the one option. I just had the timing belt (I'll bite my tongue about using timing belts instead of chains on interference engines for now) and water pump replaced with Aisins. I don't have anything against using an OEM clutch, but I do have something against using one without looking into alternatives, given the cost of the job and my use case.

I haven't yet looked into changing the type of flywheel - I'm not sure even if she has the original clutch/flywheel or the second (she's got just over 200k km), and I don't have service records from the previous owner, so there's no way to know. The service manual only lists the flywheel as "flexible", I assume to absorb torsional stress from the crankshaft. One complaint I have changing gears is that it takes a looooong time for revs to drop, particularly when shifting from 1st to 2nd. There's a lot of "hang". I assume a lighter flywheel would alleviate that complaint to some degree, but perhaps a lighter flywheel would introduce other problems?

Anyone know of a test/method to figure out whether you're running a single mass vs. dual mass flywheel? Anyone ever switched from one to the other, or dropped in a lighter flywheel?

 

I think you will find the Flex flywheel is a dual mass. One way to determine if you have a dual mass flywheel is to select first gear and simply ”dump the clutch”. If you hear a horrible “groaning“ noise you have a dual mass flywheel. The “groaning” is the multiple springs in the dual mass flywheel stretching to their limit.

As the dual mass flywheels are twice the price of a solid flywheel I have always chosen to replace the flywheel with a solid one when replacing the clutch. I have noticed no difference in clutch performance with the solid flywheel installed. Subaru also sell an optional solid flywheel conversion kit for your vehicle (at least they do in Australia).

Hope this helps,

Seagrass

 

Alright, by "dump the clutch", I assume you mean to select first gear, and then violently engage(i.e. release - let the clutch up instantly) the clutch, without touching the accelerator? This would help me to know whether I'm looking at a conversion, or not. My clutch is quiet, even now as it's failing, so I'm not sure if I would hear it. However, if you've noticed no difference with a single mass I think I'll replace it with a single mass.

But one question (and a half) - if I'm changing from a dual mass to a solid, do I need a conversion kit? Would that impact the choice of clutch?

And to keep my thread on track, are there options for clutches? I'd like to find one more suited for pulling heavy loads, if it exists, whether or not it's a bit tougher to drive or gives a rougher ride.

And - if anyone were pulling the transmission, what other work would they do?

And thank you everyone who replies or has replied, for the advice.

 

Sorry about the Aussie slang. “Dumping the clutch“ is indeed letting out the clutch quickly BUT you also need to increase the revs to prevent the motor from stalling. In a non all wheel drive vehicle this results in massive wheel spin (a burnout) which is also achievable in a Subaru if you are on a loose surface such as gravel.

If you go to the exedy website you can see all the options they have available for your vehicle including upgrades such as a “heavy duty” option. I have included a link to the Australian exedy part finder site below so you can see what options are available.

Exedy | Part Finder

www.exedy.com.au

Seagrass

 

The Internet tells me it's a single mass flywheel if I Google the part number (12342AA090). I would imagine the previous owner used OEM parts, every other replacement part so far has been OEM (except the windshield, so I have no wiper defrosters, that cheap *******!). Plus, I can't hear any noise from the springs that would be in a dual mass. I may replace it with a lighter flywheel... it takes so damned long to rev match while upshifting in low gears.

Looks like I'll use a Clutchmasters clutch unless I'm warned against them, but I'm still debating on which one exactly

 

Heard back from Exedy today. They only make the OEM clutch for my car, but they did have some quite useful information on my flywheel:

The flywheel on your vehicle is not a dual mass or a solid flywheel. The flywheel is referred to as a flex type flywheel. This is basically a flex plate for a torque converter, but it has a flywheel surface and ring gear mounted to it.

 

I heard back from Exedy today, who informed me that the Clutch Masters FX100 15013-HD00 I sourced will in fact not work on my 2012 2.5 6MT; it's apprently meant for a 5MT. The Exedy TYF100 fits my car, and comes in at about half of what Clutch Masters wants for a solid flywheel. Still waiting to hear back from Clutch Masters, I'll give them a call if I haven't heard back by noon tomorrow.

Has anyone else replaced the clutch with an aftermarket? It seems a bit tough to find aftermarket clutches for Valerie, and I'm hoping someone who's replaced theirs can share what they know. I'm not totally hung up on using a Clutch Masters, but the TYF100 fits my bill perfectly.

 

Hi all, happy (maybe that's not the right word...) to see some recent activity on a clutch replacement. I had mine go at just under 100k last weekend (90k from original owner) while 2.5 hours from home. So unfortunately not much say in which shop it ended up in for the work. They are doing the full clutch kit, fork (per service bulletin), and flywheel. Hoping the cylinder assembly is okay.

I told the shop to go Exedy, but not through the dealer, based on the thread here, and was going to see if anyone had definitive confirmation that Exedy was the OEM manufacturer for the US-market cars too (would they ever not be if they are in Canada?). The local (to the shop the car is in) dealer parts department I called either played dumb or didn't know since "everything comes in a Subaru box." And actually while typing this here, I had a family friend who works as a head deal service technician (on the domestic side, but Subaru next door) confirm that Exedy is the OEM. I can't recall how much I saved by having them source the parts themselves rather than going up to the road to the dealer, but I'll post that once I see the bill.

On another note, and perhaps the downside to not going through the dealer, the shop says they received the wrong flywheel. So after originally saying "nobody really resurfaces them anymore" they apparently have found a local machine shop that will do it. But if they do run into issues there, the local dealer did confirm they could have an OEM (presumably matching the Exedy clutch kit) in hand in a few days.

 

Shop confirmed that the thrust bearing failed (I believe he used the word "exploded") and destroyed the springs on the clutch fork. He also did say the plates were close to end of life. Should be ready to pick up in a day or two with the new clutch kit, fork, and resurfaced flywheel. Curious to see how much difference there is in the shifting with the new parts. And with that confirmation on the thrust bearing failure, I'm optimistic that the cylinder assembly did in fact survive.

 

I really would have went with a new aftermarket flywheel before using a resurfaced OEM. These flywheels are relatively thin compared to others and I would fear the risk of warping with a resurfaced one.

 

Point well taken. Anything I can keep an eye out for on whether or not that in fact happened / will happen? Is that warping part of the resurfacing process? Or something that would happen under load over the life of the new clutch? I just got the call it's all back together and road-worthy so I will pick it up Monday. With the car 2.5 hours away, I was a captive customer, plus I'm new to clutch replacement even after years of high mileage 5MT ownership over three cars. And I unfortunately couldn't wait for them to get a new unit after they somehow ordered the wrong one at first. I've got to go back and get it before a trip next week. Had it been local I would have had a lot more flexibility. (I guess on the plus side, I now know what a throw-out bearing ready to quit sounds like....?)

 

Hi all, just resurrecting this as the clutch went on my 2012 a few days ago. Car had one previous owner, who seems to have taken care of it well....however, I bought it with just under 100k Km on it, and it’s now close to 115k km. I’m not hard on my clutch, neither is my partner, and we don’t tow anything. This is **** and I’m pretty disappointed. As others have said, I’ve never had to replace a clutch before either on both previous MT cars I’ve had (92 Corolla and 04 CRV).

My mechanic is going to replace it, but anything worth telling him? I.e., better parts/brands to use while they’ve got it open? I don’t want to have to do this again...

 

The Exedy (OEM manufacturer) branded kit was available to the shop that did mine at a good price, so that was a no-brainer versus Subaru branded kit. As for the discussion on the flywheel above, I don't love the take-up point on the pedal. My indy mechanic (who did not do the work) had told me on the phone when I was weighing the resurfaced or aftermarket flywheel that the take-up point would move, and I thought I would either not notice or just get used to it, but I still really haven't. Maybe in another 10k haha. So I guess I'd maybe say I should have taken the advice of Plastixx and gone aftermarket rather than my OEM flywheel resurfaced.

You might have them take a look at the clutch fork, for which I believe there was a Technical Service Bulletin a while back. Mine had not been done and it's right there so should be if you're in the same boat.

If you're very particular about the feel of your clutch pedal, there are two other things you can think about:

One is the clutch damper delete thread. Not sure I am that picky, but maybe it would address my dislike of the new shifting feel.

The other is the Perrin bushing. To be clear it is easy to do yourself and does not require dismantling, so it's not a "while you have the clutch out" but more a "while it's up on the lift." I still haven't gotten around to crawling under mine, so I maybe would pay the parts markup if it was in a shop I wanted to send the business to.

 

Also, I would be curious to hear what the diagnosis is. Was it the throw-out bearing like mine was?

 

Thanks MW! Indeed, their shop is a bit understaffed, and he won’t get to it until early next week. I’ll post what I find. He did say he could hear bearing noise....so,...maybe? This shop has taken care of all my previous cars, and they’re great, so i wouldn’t be surprised if they just go new - I’ll get a better idea when he opens it up as he’ll call to talk about what is needed.

Neither myself or my partner could feel slippage or issues, or nothing notable that I recall. She was driving it when it went, and felt some shuddering and hesitation with it (best I can tell from her description).

 

So it was the bearing in the end, like yours. It also failed quite spectacularly...he showed it to me, and it was warped and ovalized, and they picked parts of it from inside. It didn’t affect the fork or the spring, but the plate was near the end anyway and very worn. Looks like the previous owner wasn’t kind on the clutch perhaps. So new clutch kit, and flywheel. And lots of $$ later.

I recall at some point hearing that when you have a new clutch installed, to keep the revs around some even rate (maybe 25000-3000 rpm IIRC) to help it wear in more uniformly, is there truth to this?