Depends on how much longer you intend to keep it and how much it costs to do the service. Should it be done? Absolutely. Is it cost effective? Not sure.

 

Probably not wise to change at that mileage.

The theory is that as transmissions wear the very small particles that are worn off get suspended in the transmission fluid and actually help the transmission parts to continue to perform as originally designed.

Replacing the old fluid with new fluid removes these particles and can cause problems such as Torque converter shudder or maybe “flaring” during CVT “gear changes”.

I did a first time drain and fill (and then two other drain and fills) on my 2011 3.6 Outback with the 5EAT transmission at around 130,000 miles and from that time I had torque converter shudder.

As Subaru actually suggest a “drain and fill” (not a fluid flush) this procedure may not cause any problems as somewhere between 50% to 70% of the original fluid is not replaced during a drain and fill.

Others will disagree with this post (as they are entitled to do) so in the end the choice moving forward is yours alone to make.

And welcome to the forum.

Seagrass

 

Change it

 

I know there is a 5nor 6 quart service. I was thinking about that but there is a Subaru shop (Prime Motors) in Wallington NJ, anyone heard of them? not far from my home, I'm going to stop there and ask for advice. And thanks for welcoming me to the thread.

 

The conventional wisdom would suggest there's some risk in changing the fluid at that mileage, however, AFAIK, that advice is entirely based on standard (geared) automatic transmissions. While it could apply to Subaru CVTs, I don't think we have sufficient evidence to even approach an educated guess, so I'd probably go ahead and do it. Just a simple drain and fill with the correct Subaru fluid. Seems you appreciate the need to have a reputable shop do the work - smart - I know nothing of that place in Wallington, but it appears to be a relatively high-end shop, so you may not save any $$$ over just going to your local Subaru dealership. Worth calling them to see if they'll give you a quote on the service of course. Let us know what they say.

BTW, we keep a list of reputable indie shops, many of which specialize in Subarus. We've only got one for NJ, and I've used them many times over the years, their pricing is typically much better than dealerships (and, last I checked, they stock genuine Subaru CVTF):

Other: - List of Recommended Independent Subaru Repair Shops

Updated September 16, 2023 Totally stealing this from ForesterBill on SF.org... Looking to start a list of independent Subaru-focused repair shops that forum members recommend. The shop must primarily specialize on Subarus and not just generalize on multiple brands, although it does not have...

www.subaruoutback.org

 

Hey thanks for the heads up! So now I need to ask. Is the reason this isn't DIY that I need a specific scanning tool even though this is only a partial fluid change? And should I do the diffs as well?
Thanks again. This is my first Subaru given to me by a relative. (I am a senior with some health issues)It had head gaskets and timing done at 175k and very recently new front axles and all 4 wheel bearings, new serpentine belt, air filter and oil change. It will need a new battery soon. Any idea of the group size I can use to fill the battery tray? I hate that little battery in that big tray.
Thanks again everyone for your help.

 

Is the reason this isn't DIY.......

Many people have stuffed this up in the past they drain the wrong fluid and try and jam more fluid into where it should not go..........The CVT is toast if you stuff it up. If you are very handy have a go but be warned many a Subaru have ended up on a tilt tray going to the dealer to fix the mistake.

 

Yes the old adage about making a trans run worse after real old and dirty fluid is changed was true. Mainly it was because all that particulate was aiding with friction between clutch plates and clutch pistons. Those sets are involved in every gear that the trans will be in, as well as direction. AFAIK, the main purpose of clutch packs in a Subie CVT are for engaging forward or reverse. So if there is going to be a problem it will not be because the variator belt/chain starts slipping. One option might be to take a sample and see how bad it is. Are you positive that the current fluid has 220k miles on it? What sort of driving was that - towing?

 

Given the amount of work its already had I'd be a little surprised if its truly never had a CVT or diff oil change in its life. Both should be done at some interval, IMO (50-100k miles is typical), but I'm sure there are plenty of Outbacks on the road that have never had either service done. How critical these services are is for you to decide - we don't have statistically valid data to base the decision on.

As mentioned, since it has both gear oil and CVT fluid plugs, mixups during a CVT and front diff service are not exactly uncommon (even professionals have managed to mess it up). The fluid level also needs to be set carefully and at the correct temperature so it's pretty critical to get the entire process right (you need a scanner that can read CVTF temperature). Given the high cost of replacement, and the somewhat complicated procedure, I suspect this is the reason SoA chose not to specify a fluid change interval for the CVT or front diff except when towing.

 

At 220k miles you're on borrowed time for the entire vehicle. Why mess with it now. I wouldn't even wash the thing in fear of it losing its magical chemistry. Let it run its course and see how long it will keep going down the highway.