$350ish is what I recall being quoted for my fronts by the dealer last year. I upgraded my rotors, pads and added caliper covers on all 4 wheels instead. Had all of it done by a local brake place. Nothing particularly special about the brakes on these cars, thats just the price of owning one these days. Upside is you can take them pretty much anywhere to have the brakes done.

 

Just pads? Looks like OEM pads are around $90 for the set. Rotors look around $80 each (I assume the price is each on rotors). Doing a bleed and new fluid too?

If that is really $90 pads and $300 labor ... that is very steep.

If that's $230 parts and $150 labor, then that seems very reasonable.

I did my own pads, and didn't swap rotors, as they were within spec and not warped.

 

When I go back in there, I will ask exactly what the $389 includes. My mechanic friend said something about having to screw in a piston correctly, an electronic parking brake, and other tricky stuff I didn’t understand. Changing brake pads is not as easy as it used to be I guess.

 

I'll give you an example of old vs new frustrations from one of my customers.

I was doing some work on his 64 Pontiac. Mainly suspension upgrades and tuning the carburetor. He came in one day to BS, he was bored, and as we talked he brought up that he bought his wife a new Toyota Camry. This was back around 2012ish. He said that when he opened the hood and saw all the wiring, he decided he didn't want anything to do with it. He asked what happened to being able to work on a car with a pair of pliers and a screwdriver.

LONG GONE. You need computer software and specialty tools.

Your rear brakes have to be put in Service Mode using a bi-directiinal scan tool. Then after the work is done, it's put back in Service Mode.

There are ways around it, but using the computer system on the car is easier.


Parts prices are ridiculous. Even used engines have gone up from $5-700 for a SOHC to $2500. Labor rates have gone up. The Subaru dealers here are at $200/ hr.

You can use pads and rotors from the part store, not AutoZone, and do the work yourself. There are threads on here where owners outlined what to do.

 

Thanks for the great information. I have no skill to do something as complicated as this but now I know what to ask about before committing. I guess I’ll have to fork over $400 but I want to make sure it’s money well spent. I’ll be sure to get a detailed written estimate from all shops.

 

2012 is ole school by now.
I had front and rear pads, rotors & brake fluid done at the dealer and the results felt better than new. Hope yours goes well too.

 

Seems high. I'm too cheap for that. I'll wrestle em myself.
Can get 2 rotors and a set of pads about 100$ at rockauto.

Rotors always get replaced here in the salt belt.

I'd pay an honest 150$ for an hour of labor but its more like 300$ for 40min of labor.

keeping in mind I live in one of the lower income sections of the country in NE Ohio.

Brakes arent magic.. basic tools and some youtube videos.. need a bi-directional scan tool.. thats a one time purchase.. but there are usually ways to hit some buttons on the radio to get the brakes to retract etc.

I may go back to OE pads though alot of the aftermarket are total junk now.

Hyundai dealer wanted 1100 to do front pads and rotors and replace the ebrake cable that came nicked from shipping damage when new. (wife's 2020 elantra)

$104 shipped got me raybestos element 3 pads and rotors (now made cheaper)
easiest brake job ever maybe 30min total after getting the front wheels off.
and I replaced the hardware and filed the grooves to get the rust out etc.. all the normal best practices for salt belt brakes.

I do hate brakes though If I could find someone reliable like @cardoc I would happily offload brake work.. the worst part about paying for brakes is if they do a shoddy job.

 

The piston can be manually rotated back in with the proper tool or screwdriver. No need to mess with the electronic parking brake.

 

That price suggests to me they will be turning the rotors - from what I've seen, dealerships are pretty much the only places still doing that. The other shop is probably just putting new rotors on. While you can often get away with it, because they typically warranty the work, it can be tough to find a shop willing to just replace pads.

 

Back when I was doing brakes, I learned that turning rotors was a waste of time and money. Every time I had a set turned, they warped soon after. They get hot quicker and the thinner metal doesn't dissipate the heat very well, and they warp. I ended up doing the brakes over with new rotors, but could still use the pads since they had low miles.

 

Rear pads (and rotors if you do them) on these cars is 1.5 hours labour due to the electronic parking brake needing disabling. Shops do this with a scan tool, guys in their garage often just pull the fuse. Do not attempt to do it without disengaging the e parking brake as it cycles at random to keep things moving. I know there will be guys who jump on and say "I did it and nothing happened". OK...if you want to take the chance, it is a free country. Not me thanks.

So 1.5 hours labour @ $140/hr is $210. Pads are another $80-100, and frankly OE pads are priced the same as good aftermarket. That takes us to just shy of $300, and then shop supplies, servicing the calipers etc...yep...$389. Add new rotors for $100 each if you want (if you live where there is salt air or road salt, I would)

 

This may help you understand,

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/diy-rear-brake-pad-change-2015-2019-subaru-outback.517583/page-5?post_id=6533772#post-6533772

I did my brake pads and front rotors last Fall, easy if you have mechanical ability. I did not use any electrical computer things. I have the Harbor Freight brake kit for pushing the piston back. It was $29.00

 

+1, the rear brakes are not difficult, or time-consuming, all you need is a wind back tool (ideally - of course you can also improvise). There's no way you're also getting new OE rotors from a dealer at that price.

 

Do the math . . . . my guy did the entire operation, front and rear, in 45 minutes. . .

 

Great info. Thanks for sharing!

 

Just out of curiosity, how many miles on your subaru? Rear pads usually last twice as long vs front ones, or even more. Also, some dishonest mechanics scare customers showing them that rear pads are thin, while they are thinner than front to begin with. And, as mentioned in this thread already, OEM pads are under 100 dollars and labor should be no more than an hour. Not sure how much dealer charges per hour nowadays, 100? 150?

 

". . . Rear pads usually last twice as long vs front ones, or even more. . ."

The newer Outbacks are designed with a bit more bias toward the rear brakes; the rear pads now tend to wear faster than the fronts.

 

Do shops turn rotors anymore? I never see this mentioned when discussing brake service. It's been a while, but parts stores would "turn" (reface / true) rotors for a reasonable cost.

Not often, they are more a replacement item. Manufacturers have taken so much meat out of the rotors for cost and weight savings that you be lucky to get one resurfacing out of them, especially since many folks don't even look at brakes until they are metal on metal.

Just out of curiosity, how many miles on your subaru? Rear pads usually last twice as long vs front ones, or even more. Also, some dishonest mechanics scare customers showing them that rear pads are thin, while they are thinner than front to begin with.

Used to, but the anti-dive incorporated into brake systems these days causes the rears to wear sooner, plus having a smaller contact area to start with. My old Infiniti with mostly highway miles would go through rears every 50K and fronts every 80K like clockwork.

That said, if I was doing brakes for myself, I'd have no problem using a kit from EBay. Done many times before and I will this time if I live long enough.

 

All this makes me very happy I stopped in to the dealer the day before my warranty expired. There was a veeerrrrry slight vibration when I would brake between 20-40mph or so. After the boss mechanic and I went on a drive and I showed it to him, they replaced the rotors and pads (plus whatever other bits are involved) front and back under warranty. I am pleased to have a 3-year-old Outback with nice new brakes!

 

I have done brakes and rotors on three of my Subarus. Four of the newer Subarus I have chosen to have the dealership do the work due to my spine injury. Without a lift it really tears up my low back, and the cost of dealership brake work for premium components is about the same as Subaru parts with the added labor.

I usually end up paying $450 an axle which includes rotors, pads, caliper cylinder check, caliper mount cleaning, greasing, and replacement of the small fittings that wear out, and a flush. I know some of the newer models calipers are getting more pricey, along with rotors. Pads are relatively the same cost.

The dealer will often replace my caliper if its not performing and because I'm a regular they do not upcharge much when they replace one or more calipers. All Subaru parts, and I have found Subaru parts to be the best for lifespan and comfort in braking and handling.

I have a good dealership, they charge the labor hours per job which many local shops will save you $ on doing it quicker, but they give me a discounts on parts in service, and they give me a veterans discount which I sincerely appreciate. They also have a 100k club discount. I do not use non Subaru parts unless it's a high end aftermarket component for a specific purpose like towing or off road needs. I live in a mountainous area with a lot of dirt roads that see harsh conditions seasonally, we also get a lot of snow and ice.

 

Just out of curiosity, how many miles on your subaru? Rear pads usually last twice as long vs front ones, or even more. Also, some dishonest mechanics scare customers showing them that rear pads are thin, while they are thinner than front to begin with. And, as mentioned in this thread already, OEM pads are under 100 dollars and labour should be no more than an hour. Not sure how much dealer charges per hour nowadays, 100? 150?

Rear pads last twice as long as the fronts? Not these days. The rears are half the size of the fronts and less meat on the pads. It is very common to do rear pads around 60,000km in my area. The fronts around 80-100,000km. But it also depends on how the vehicle is driven, got alot of hills or stop and go traffic? Those pads will be worn down a lot faster than the highway commuter. Does the vehicle have lane keep assist but no steering assist? That will use the rear brakes.

Also an adverse side effect of getting it done cheaper, some after market pads wear down even quicker! We had customers coming in with Napa pads in 30,000km worn down to nothing. We also get quite a few customers coming in complaining about noise after they had brakes done elsewhere.

Part of the price you pay is for quality parts, and if you have a good dealer, free support if you do have issue with parts.

Given labor at say $190/hr locally at Subaru + a machining cost, I can't see it being much cheaper at all to machine rotors compared to replacing. And certainly dollars per mile, I think replacement with brand new is a better investment than having turned down rotors.

Saying that, my Ascent rotors were machined at 30,000 miles due to a recall on the pads and rotors. I wasn't given the option of paying a little extra to get new rotors. Now a couple years later, they're replacing them under recall anyway.

Warp those brakes again eh? Subaru dropped a huge warranty extension on Ascent front brakes. New pads, new designed rotors and caliper braces. All free of charge. Techs kinda get screwed for labour though, but it's a huge benefit to customers. We have ascents coming in with worn brakes getting them replaced for free at 90-100,000km Attached the Canadian TSB, Would be different down in the US.

 

I would probably try to find a caliper adapter kit for the rears if someone makes one to get thicker rotors and thicker pads once your calipers fail. Or possibly look for better factory caliper options unless it under warranty. A lot of skilled mechanics can probably help you adapt something to provide better

I have had good luck with mid line Brembos especially the cryo treated rotors made with Canadian steel. Never had them warp. Even the oem Brembo rotors are decent, but I would get the midline because the cost is reasonable. The cheapest Brembos are often made with Chinese steel and it warps easily.

 

The question is how much you got? not what the dealer will charge.

Walking into the service counter, and they size you up by the vehicle you drive, how you dress, whether you're a woman or man, how professional you appear, how clueless you are mechanically speaking, whether or not you are elderly...

Profile yourself and then ask what is the amount of money you are willing to rip yourself off. No two brake jobs ever cost the same.

 

OP was last here on March 2. I hope it was resolved. The original price quoted did not seem out of line for a newer car getting dealer brake servicing. In fact it was better than neighbors with Toyotas and Hondas have paid in our area.

Lots of back and forth and good info since. My take follows.

I have found with every car or truck I have owned, that turning/resurfacing/fresh cutting/etc. of brake discs and/or drums has been a waste of time and money over the long run. Even when lightly scored, a new disc or drum has been far better at avoiding warpage than any machined part.

Maybe it was bad luck, bad work or other, it always meant an earlier replacement of the machined part and more cost and time expended. That was what got me into DIY brake work. Avoiding the machining and/or getting generic budget replacement parts has always been a pay now or pay again choice. Plus, I usually did a brake bleed and replaced the brake fluid when I did my brakes.

Personally, I would have paid the original OP price as it sounded reasonable for a job I no longer consider an DIY.

One thing I have noticed with my AWD cars (2 Hyundais and the OB) is that they need rear pads faster than my FWD and RWD vehicles. Maybe it due to the SUV body weight distribution and weight transfer when braking or the ABS, but I now check both much closer.

 

Someone had said rear brakes wear faster on newer cars due to anti-dive. I've never heard of that, but I do know on many cars, traction/stability control is done with modulating one or both of the rear brakes. So if you drive like a maniac sometimes, it'll wear faster. Then again, if the rest of the systems on the OB is as sensitive as the eyesight/auto braking system, it'll probably wear fast even if you drive normally.

 

There is a good video on how to do this. Notice, no scan tool needed.

On my 18 I only unplugged the right rear connector to give me more room to move it around, I did not remove it on the left rear.

 

Interesting you didn't need to disconnect the EPB cable on the left, I would think that is the workaround for not needing the scan tool. Then again if the car is off it shouldn't move, but everything is electronic now and I don't trust it won't do something when off (like the fuel EVAP check).

I'm glad to hear many anecdotes of not needing a scan tool, because while I'm all for a new tool, I don't really want to drop $100-200 for a scanner only for rear brake pads.