[MikeD666]

Hello,
After failing to fix my phantom touches on the stock head unit here, I jumped and made the purchase on joying head unit JY-SZ007N4. I confirmed with a sales rep via email that this is the correct product, for what that is worth. Note, many of these Android head units do not list compatibility with my vehicle - 2019 Premium 2.5. My guess is these listings just haven't had photos updated.

I'm trying to get ahead of a couple issues that I've read repeatedly in the forums, but might need to wait to see what's in my box. First of all, I purchased a usb adapter from ebay. I also am looking for an adapter for the existing rear camera. My understanding is it needs 6volts and an rca connection. I cannot find one with my adapter, nor do I know what one it is at this time (see back of radio photo). I'd prefer not to snip any ends to make it on my own. Lastly, the harness in the photo of the head unit may not be 100% correct from what I read on the the other install forums. While I have the 8' display, it is not an HK. Any guidance is appreciated. Many of the current forums linking products have dead links unfortunately.

Just some words on how I chose this unit. There seem to be many unknown Android brands running Android 13. Most of these are cheaper units 100-200 dollars, but only 2GB RAM. If you've ever ran cheap Android tablets, you know that is a laggy experience. I looked at Idoing, but I want a volume knob. I want a unit that fits in the existing space (they make oversized ones). 4 cameras surround view would had been nice, but I don't see that as an option with Joying. I ended up going 8GB RAM, model A, and will attempt to add a front camera. They also claim HDMI output, I would like to try using a back seat display that I have for fun. 720 resolution works for me, as some have the 2k option. I'm pretty sure this is already a pixel per inch upgrade over stock.

I'll report back when I receive the unit.

 

[bigkevin]

Sweet! Eager to see how it works out.

 

[Ben78]

I have a Joying unit in my MY16. The rear camera worked out of the box, and I just had to make up a voltage divider to send voltage back to the factory microphone as it has an integral amplifier. I've been very happy with it, visibility is great and it goes pretty dark. Mapping steering controls was flawless.

 

[MikeD666]

I received the head unit last night. So, 7 days shipping. Packaged well. I have the head unit, instructions, diagram, 2 antennas?, 1 gps antenna, front camera (I added to order), 2 usb fremale to male extensions, microphone, and wire harness. I'm going to study the wiring for a little and see when I can move forward. My first assumption is I need an adapter for the rear camera.

 

[MikeD666]

My observations so far while looking at the wiring

• The connector at 3 oclock (previous post) is not on the old unit. I think that is a camera connection for another model. It shares wires with the connector at 6 oclock. They both have RCA male yellow and are labeled CAM VIN. I believe you use one of the options and connect to rear cam input on the same harness.
• There is a CAM BUS box with 2 pin connectors, one labels for older year models vs newer. I plugged mine into the 2018-2021 labeled cable. It was in the older model from factory.
• KEY and CAM OUT were connected from factory on back of unit
• There is an additional male RCA yellow that i translated to be “rearview camera input”. It runs back to the connector at 12 o clock. I'm lost on this one at the moment but it might go into the head unit or unused.
• hdmi port and sd card exist and aren't accessible unless you open it up. looks exactly as picture on joying site inside.
• Both the blue port on stock radio and connector underneath will not be utilized with this harness. What are they and what am I losing?
• There is a green wire labeled AMP. What is this for? It also runs to the connector at 12 oclock
• I need to reverse engineer whatever changes I made to the wiring from the starlink delete and see what meshes with these new changes.

The rear camera worked out of the box, and I just had to make up a voltage divider to send voltage back to the factory microphone as it has an integral amplifier.

I think the camera will be good. I pulled power for the mic on starlink delete so now I'll look deeper at that.

 

[walker]

• Both the blue port on stock radio and connector underneath will not be utilized with this harness. What are they and what am I losing?
• There is a green wire labeled AMP. What is this for? It also runs to the connector at 12 oclock
• I need to reverse engineer whatever changes I made to the wiring from the starlink delete and see what meshes with these new changes.

the blue port is your SiriusXM antenna on the roof.

The connector underneath that isn't used (likely some multimedia thing we don't have in the US - like a rear seat entertainment option that existed on the 2015-2017 units in the US).

The green wire labeled AMP is something with the new headunit harness, right?

 

[MikeD666]

the blue port is your SiriusXM antenna on the roof.

The connector underneath that isn't used (likely some multimedia thing we don't have in the US - like a rear seat entertainment option that existed on the 2015-2017 units in the US).

The green wire labeled AMP is something with the new headunit harness, right?

Cool, I've never used Sirius and don't plan to. Sounds like I can forget about the other connector too.

The green AMP wire within the harness goes to what I believe to be connector i87 pin 9 (CAN+?). The lost RCA also goes to i87 pins 12&13 (ac uart- and mic2+?).

 

[walker]

Ah. pin 9 is for the CAN. There are two that are normally paired for that - pins 9 and 10.

Are you sure the other two aren't for pins 11&12? that would be the AC UART communication - communication with the AC/HVAC control panel.

 

[MikeD666]

Ah. pin 9 is for the CAN. There are two that are normally paired for that - pins 9 and 10.

Are you sure the other two aren't for pins 11&12? that would be the AC UART communication - communication with the AC/HVAC control panel.

I hope I'm reading the pinouts correct. These are the female connector with male pins inside that you would find on the back of the old unit. The green wire is just left stray outside of the connector, they labeled it with hand writing AMP. The outer most holes on the 2nd picture aren't actually pin holes, just part of the connector itself. So from R to L on the top row of 2nd pic, 14, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9. Or at least that is what I see. There are pins on 28,27,26,23,22,21,19,14,13,12,11,9,8,7,2 for what that is worth. And I think I would need to put 12v on pin 4 for the starlink bypass on the mic....assuming this harness is correct.

 

[walker]

that’s how the pins are numbered, if they are male pins - starts from the top right. Female pins start from the top left.

No idea what the new unit is doing, so that could be right.

 

[MikeD666]

Well, I went to install and I'm not even sure this fits. I don't recall other threads complaining of fit and finish, but I'll share some photos. It's too proud. There are some missing clip holders for the top of the climate control hardware. There are no other screw adjustments that would move the unit backward more that I can see.
In other threads, there were mentions of alternative harnesses, but all the links were dead. I'm hoping someone who has installed one of these pops their head around and remembers what they did.
I'm going to write Joying hopfing for guidance on the AMP wire and with the fit issue.

Looks decent until up close inspection. Top vents are not seatd on bottom side due to proud radio.

yuck. silver lip is part of new radio/faceplate

side view

missing clips on bottom of new face....it will probably hold fine without them because side clips and bottom screws are strong

notice clips on bottom here of original

just showing that it is in fact seated, black nubbon lined up in all 4 locations (1 pictured)

screw location, starlink box removed

 

[MikeD666]

I connected it anyway. It booted up and all the speakers worked. FM worked. GPS worked. It's a snappy unit. I'm going to run some antennas around before putting it in place and getting into steering wheel controls, usb, cameras. I also want to find power for the stock microphone.

My wifi signal was quite weak. There is a spot for an antenna, but this unit didn't come with anything.

 

[walker]

surprised the faceplate can't be adjusted a bit. I guess you could always elongate the holes in the bracket a little bit, then use flat and lock washers... would give you a bit of adjustment to snug it up so it fits more flush.

 

[Ben78]

I actually separated the housing and the screen and ran the housing vertical, which made everything fit a lot nicer. I had a lot of issues getting the plastics all lined up, contact with Joying was great, they were very patient with what turned out to very much be a operator error situation.

 

[MikeD666]

surprised the faceplate can't be adjusted a bit. I guess you could always elongate the holes in the bracket a little bit, then use flat and lock washers... would give you a bit of adjustment to snug it up so it fits more flush.

I'll play around with it. I just want to get this thing up and running like stock. I'm going to add in the cooler components 1 at a time now to get a victory now. Too frustrating....
I messed something up just now. I thought I was smart borrowing 12v from one of my unused starlink harness to power the mic. I just realized this is a 5v device.....it is, right?

I actually separated the housing and the screen and ran the housing vertical, which made everything fit a lot nicer. I had a lot of issues getting the plastics all lined up, contact with Joying was great, they were very patient with what turned out to very much be a operator error situation.

Anything specific on issue you can share that might help? What exactly do you mean by vertical? I took the bezel completely off the tablet at one point when looking at everything, but I can't imagine any part of that running vertical. There are those weird plastic clips that might have some forward/back play.

 

[MikeD666]

I just had to make up a voltage divider to send voltage back to the factory microphone as it has an integral amplifier

Do you know where you did this from?

 

[Ben78]

Anything specific on issue you can share that might help?

I had a gap between the HVAC and the display but it was my error as I said, I just wasn't manipulating it in the correct way to make it fit

What exactly do you mean by vertical?

The display/bezel is attached to the control box by the yellow clips and a ribbon cable. I separated the two and mounted the control box in the dash in a vertical orientation, then attached the ribbon cable to the screen which clips into the dash in the factory location. The control box isn't mounted as you would expect it to be in a typical head unit installation.

I'll possibly be taking the display off shortly as I bought a ODBLink SX to run a wired connection rather than my very old and unreliable bluetooth ELM327 device and I'll need to access a USB port in the back. So I'll grab photos. Won't be until the weekend though I'd say.

 

[MikeD666]

The display/bezel is attached to the control box by the yellow clips and a ribbon cable. I separated the two and mounted the control box in the dash in a vertical orientation

Thanks. I'm surprised you found something to mount it to vertically. Did you take off the yellow clips from inside of the control box? There really isn't room to get to the screws that hold those clips brackets.

 

[MikeD666]

Nm. It just pops right out of those clips. Thanks again. I think if I take those off completely, there will be enough room for the screen to go back and keep the control box in the same spot

 

[Ben78]

Nm. It just pops right out of those clips. Thanks again. I think if I take those off completely, there will be enough room for the screen to go back and keep the control box in the same spot

Yep, I completely removed the clips, tiny little screws.