Sounds like coincidence. A full mechanic computer scan would probably be more helpful than a code pull.

 

code or no code:

chuck that K&N pile of shitt, you can't clean them 100% so you are always starving the engine for air,

buy some nice paper filters and be happy.

hard to find anyone on this site with a K&N air filter at all regardless of engine.. and this is where the most H6 people are in the known universe.


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when and if the p0420 comes back consider replacing the rear o2 sensor(s) with densos.

and always run 91-93 octane gas.:smile2:

miles on this. ?

 

code or no code:

chuck that K&N pile of shitt, you can't clean them 100% so you are always starving the engine for air,


and always run 91-93 octane gas.:smile2:

miles on this. ?

Ha! My thoughts exactly.

Just turned over 150k.

Purchased used at 144k 1.5 years ago. My only vehicle but only sees the road a few times a week, usually longer trips for skiing etc.

 

**pours you another cup of haterade**

can't hear you so good over all that air flow~~ >_<

 

makes me want to fly down to atlanta, ...pop that hood and swap it back to OEM intake, and let you find out when the car starts to run properly again.

is this a traditional Wet oil one ?

 

Before going overboard with the diagnostics, why not put the stock air filter back in, reset the codes, and see if the problem reoccurs?

What were you trying to accomplish anyway on this NA engine? There's very little to be gained over the stock air filter.

 

believe it or not, the K&N is the drop in. Still using the OEM intake housing as its not a major restriction at the boost volumes of the stock turbo. no pod filter here.

I've never had a problem getting shmutz out of it when cleaning it back to pristine white. I prefer to use a better degreaser than what comes in the kit, and I have a street-pressure garden hose, so I've got lots of flow when I rinse it all clean. I'm also running a Cobb tune for it, so....

The only thing I don't like about it is the early versions of the product the rubber frame was too thick and didn't fit the box properly. Had to shave the durn thing...

Before going overboard with the diagnostics, why not put the stock air filter back in, reset the codes, and see if the problem reoccurs?

based on his post, i think thats exactly where he's at already. He was just looking for explanations.

 

And I've been running one for over 350,000 miles, without issue.

 

What has been your experience with it?

based on his post, i think thats exactly where he's at already. He was just looking for explanations.

Yep, that's where things stand right now.

Also, it is worth noting that I did change the PCV valve shortly after clearing the code. Maybe this is the reason for it not coming back. The old was pretty clogged.

 

At "normal" driving, no significant difference to a paper filter.
At "high output" driving, seems to have change the shift points up a bit.
Did it add horsepower? Not likely.
Is it less maintenance than changing a paper filter? somewhat. I only need to clean it each year or two.
Probably saved some money on buying disposable paper filters.

 

I have one in another vehicle going on 16 years. The last UOA was a nearly perfect study and the air filter never entered into the discussion because it was a none issue.

It will not add HP unless you are at upper RPMs and is probably was a break even 10 years ago. I clean it every 2-3 years.

The filters work, don't over oil them and don't by them for a performance upgrade. You need a lot more work than just a filter or CAI but don't run from them. Just know what you're getting into ahead of time.

Right now I'm running the aFe 5 dry in my OB and the UOAs are free of silicon or dirt related wear. I'll proly clean this one in a couple of years. Very good filter.