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That's a good question - there are stiffening braces sold for various cars to join parts of the chassis (usually at suspension hard points). Without looking at where the various bits are bolted it's hard to say whether they add significant stiffness - Any part of the car can flex even if it's not at the suspension hard points so they might help slightly. Suspension bracing is designed to be light weight and strong, reinforced exactly where there would be movement, so I wouldn't expect skid plates etc. to have as much stiffness even though they are heavier - being big pieces of sheet metal they aren't super stiff - the OE skid plate is probably fairly flexible - maybe even designed with less stiffness so that the crumple zone in front of the car isn't affected, but the naturally aspirated model's skid plate is steel and the Turbo one is aluminum.


The differential guard I'm sure does not add stiffness, the gas tank ones might, but I don't think that's an area where the chassis flexes much, and the engine skid plate might add a little but again it's not an area where I expect much flex. For example if the skid plate is only attached to points within an existing subframe it may stiffen the subframe but if it connected the subframe to something else it would add more stiffness - a subframe has bushings to allow some flex and decrease NVH. It could be that the skid plate parts are explicitly designed not to degrade NVH by avoiding connecting different parts of the chassis that normally are isolated from each-other, while stiffening braces are designed the opposite way.


 
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That's a good question - there are stiffening braces sold for various cars to join parts of the chassis (usually at suspension hard points). Without looking at where the various bits are bolted it's hard to say whether they add significant stiffness - Any part of the car can flex even if it's not at the suspension hard points so they might help slightly. Suspension bracing is designed to be light weight and strong, reinforced exactly where there would be movement, so I wouldn't expect skid plates etc. to have as much stiffness even though they are heavier - being big pieces of sheet metal they aren't super stiff - the OE skid plate is probably fairly flexible - maybe even designed with less stiffness so that the crumple zone in front of the car isn't affected, but the naturally aspirated model's skid plate is steel and the Turbo one is aluminum.
Okay, thank you for your input. Including myself, we have three participating in the reporting side of things in the Tires, Wheels, and Suspension section. I posted a screenshot of my IBM SPSS screen as to what data inputs look like.

Oddly, just so far vehicles with build dates of 01/22 have the popping. There are only two. Mine was built on 10/21.
 
If anyone reproduces or experiences the clump, thump, bang, please be sure to post any results in the Tires, Wheels, and Suspension section. Do include the model year. Just follow what was posted already and we will parse the information into an analysis to identify manufacture dates/ and model years affected along with specific models. The data gathering ends on March 6, 2022. Thanks for all the help. We will post results within one day of finishing the results.

Thanks.
 
I don't know if any of you read Jalopnik articles, but a writer on there named David Tracee did a review on the outback Wilderness and said the clunking is the suspension topping out at full droop. I can confirm whenever I have heard the clunk it's been at full droop whether it be off of railroad tracks at a brisk pace or a deep hole on a gravel road.
I have a 22 OBW and have the same sound on the speed bumps in my neighborhood. It’s definitely rear suspension related as it occurs after the top of the bump. I assumed it was slow rebound in the rear and the sound was the tires making contact with the ground, but suspension topout also makes sense, perhaps more sense in an unweighted rear end. I’ll pay more attention to it this week and see if I can tell more from the timing. If i go faster over the bumps the suspension should take more of the energy, keep the tail lower, and not top out on rebound. ;)
 
On reddit, someone said their issue was cured with new sway bar bushings -- also that it only happened in cold weather. (Not sure if the same issue.)
Tod314,

Do you happen to have a link to the thread on Reddit where this was discussed? I have a 22 Onyx XT with rear suspension noise (more like a grating noise when the suspension is decompressing. At dealer right now. Drives me nuts. Generally only happens when it is cold out - around or below freezing.
 
I purchased a brand new 2022 Outback Wilderness a few weeks ago. I only drove it 300 miles so far, and it has a loud clunk sound or bang when I drive over speed bumps 5 to 10 miles per hour. (I have to drive over 4 of them in my residence all the time.) It sounds like the car is bottoming out, somewhere in the back end of vehicle. Subaru dealer could not find source of the problem but knows there is one. After spending over $40,000 for this 2022 Outback Wilderness, I also had to buy extra insurance after I purchased the vehicle because the overly thin windshield, cracks very easily. When windshield needs to be replaced, the eyesight assist radar needs to be recalibrated and can cost over $1,000 dollars every time you get a crack/need to replace your windshield. Car insurance covers the windshield ONLY, and not the recalibration. This is not what I expected from Subaru. I did contact Subaru of America Headquarters about the loud clunk/ thump sound and have not received a response.
I have the SAME EXACT problem with my 2022 Outback Wilderness Edition. Happens on speed bumps when I'm going over 5 mph. Do we live in the same neighborhood? :)
 
If everyone could post their model/year under this post and look at what info is needed we are compiling issues of the loud bang/noise. Be sure to include your build date of the vehicle (located at the lower area of "B" pillar.

To Post the Findings of Suspensions on Noise Issues - Please post in this thread.
 
If we make a poll it might be good to have a reference video of the "wilderness speed bump sound" so that people can choose:
  • My wilderness makes that noise
  • My wilderness does not make that noise
  • My non-wilderness makes that noise
  • My non-wilderness does not make that noise.
My 2022 Wilderness makes that noise.

sample video
 
At 1st I didn’t hear this noise ever. When I finally went over a speed bump a little faster than anticipated, there it was. I’ve repeated it easily by just going over the speed bump a little faster. Go over slowly…. Of course no noise.
 
My 2022 Wilderness makes that noise.

sample video
That is a fantastic video and it sounds to me like the suspension is bottoming out, probably from the shocks not having enough extension is what it sounds like to me, but I'm not a mechanic so this is just an armchair impression.

Love the fact that you got the view of the suspension as it unloads and clunks. The interior noise is really something.
 
That is a fantastic video and it sounds to me like the suspension is bottoming out, probably from the shocks not having enough extension is what it sounds like to me, but I'm not a mechanic so this is just an armchair impression.

Love the fact that you got the view of the suspension as it unloads and clunks. The interior noise is really something.
Thank you and its not only the noise but the feeling you feel in the driver seat is something else too. it feels like full size spare tire is loose in the trunk and it gets dumped hard on the back side of the car..
Took my car into the dealer and they had it for 2 day. they tried few different methods such as disconnecting sway bar, end links, and lubricating sway bar bushing and still does it and when they contact HQ they told the dealer this is NORMALL Operation of the suspension.
if this is normal operation for car that is built for off-road purpose they made it in a hurry or put the wrong parts or something.. its very annoying ..
 
It's been constantly below freezing here in Canada. My vehicle is always parked outside.

The days I was frequently going over speed bumps it was exceptionally cold, but it's also made the noise on 'warmer' days. I am not sure whether very cold vs regular cold has made a discernible difference.
not at all cause I am from sunny California and still makes that noise at 90+ temps
 
Okay, we have another factor to consider. Those that have crossbars, Thule's mounted, etc. are you experiencing the noises in the cold weather or warmer weather? It is conceivable that the body of the car is flexing, but with the crossbars or baskets like Thule mounted, this would stiffen the body. Much like adding beams to a house or building during construction.

Responses rule out the spare tire areas, so we have popping occurring in one instance in the right wheel well of @subaru Jim c vehicle. Jim, do you have any racks installed, or are the rails clear of any add-ons?

@cardoc or @SilverOnyx what is the known composition of the material in the suspension components? Hard rubber or some synthetic material?

Being that my CoCo has the Thule basket, and carries around 200-250 pounds of gear in the back, the rear end is weighed down. The result for my vehicle is no popping noises and we have speed tables in our neighborhood. I deliberately took one at 45 MPH, (CoCo took it like a champ) no popping for me, and the weather is rather warm at the moment, not baking mind you but not freezing where you walk outside with a cup of coffee and it is frozen before you get in the car.

Here is an idea for those who would like to do it.

Get a notebook and record the temperatures where you have noises. Using the temp display from the Subie is good, I have found mine rather accurate and on point with my own weather station.

In the context of the "experiments", note what your vehicle has like crossbars or no crossbars, any weight in the back, and so forth. To make this manageable I will create a post where you can post your findings. Do note the specific model of the vehicle and also the "build date" along with indicating the vehicle has OEM tires and wheels or has been lifted than what it was from the factory.
I have Thule's cross bar and live in Sunny California and even at Temps 90+ still makes the noise...
 
Looking at the video a second time, just to double check my initial impressions, it sure does seem like the thump is >exactly< at the moment the suspension reaches maximum extension, so whatever it is that limits full extension, is thumping. My speculation is that it's the rear shock reaching it's maximum travel length but perhaps there's something else on the suspension that I'm not seeing that's limiting the extension travel. Firmer rebound damping might help, or whatever internal construction of the shock has to make end-of-travel less impactful, or shocks with longer travel. Perhaps a different kind of top mount for the rear strut.

The Wilderness starts out with almost an inch of extra height, but it's not really clear to me where that height comes from.

Strangely, the Subaru parts website lists two different shocks, both listed as (Right?) rear, yet one is the same as the non wilderness and one is exclusive to the wilderness.

Same as other Outbacks
Exclusive to Wilderness
What the actual difference I don't know - it would be interesting to find out which one is installed in the rear of your car.

 
That is a fantastic video and it sounds to me like the suspension is bottoming out, probably from the shocks not having enough extension is what it sounds like to me, but I'm not a mechanic so this is just an armchair impression.

Love the fact that you got the view of the suspension as it unloads and clunks. The interior noise is really something.
Thank y
Looking at the video a second time, just to double check my initial impressions, it sure does seem like the thump is >exactly< at the moment the suspension reaches maximum extension, so whatever it is that limits full extension, is thumping. My speculation is that it's the rear shock reaching it's maximum travel length but perhaps there's something else on the suspension that I'm not seeing that's limiting the extension travel. Firmer rebound damping might help, or whatever internal construction of the shock has to make end-of-travel less impactful, or shocks with longer travel. Perhaps a different kind of top mount for the rear strut.

The Wilderness starts out with almost an inch of extra height, but it's not really clear to me where that height comes from.

Strangely, the Subaru parts website lists two different shocks, both listed as (Right?) rear, yet one is the same as the non wilderness and one is exclusive to the wilderness.

Same as other Outbacks
Exclusive to Wilderness
What the actual difference I don't know - it would be interesting to find out which one is installed in the rear of your car.

well I did take it to the dealer, forward my video along with comments found on the forum and FB groups and they did some testing. now the part number ending in 2A is on the struts. you could also see it in my video. but one thing I did notice was how tight the sway bar bushing were and the bushing it self was turning with the sway bar. I thought and since I read someone saying "dealer lubed my sway bars the sound went away" was that it had so much tension that it was throwing the suspension with a force and in return we are feeling and hearing that THUD sound.

Dealer took a note of this and did test it by disconnecting the sway bar and lubed the bushing and didn't make a difference. They did contact Subaru HQ and asked what they can do further and after reviewing my video and comments, HQ advised that this is normal operation of the vehicle and nothing needs to be done any further....and if I do want to take a step further, I have to call HQ and advise. I am planning on calling them Monday so I will update here on my findings.
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