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^^ Good point. Cheap knockoff Chinese-made coils can cause all sorts of issues on all sorts of vehicles. I would stick with either official Denso or official NGK coils.
 
Just joined this community and after reading this thread it appears that it describes the issue I'm having on my wife's 2012 outback 2.5i. MIL comes on in about 30-50 mi. Changed bad alternator, fuel pump, cleaned EGR valve, crank and camshaft position sensors replaced, oil control valves replaced, new spark plugs, coils (denso), O2 sensors (up & downstream), MAF over the past yr and still get the misfires codes (P300-304). They all show as misfiring with the initial cylinder that caused the fault varying between all the cylinders. So not sure if the initial cylinder that fails causes all others to also misfire? Also, sometimes get a P0700 (TCM). Which leads me to another question. If replacing the TCM with a used one does the used TCM need to be programmed? What about the ECM? does it need reprogramming if replaced w/used unit? Going to attempt to log the failure on laptop when it occurs. The freeze data was similar to what someone discussed in an earlier post, so not much help there. Any insight would be great.
 
I put this up every once in a while on this forum, so it's in a lot of places. I'm going to add it on this thread because all this throwing parts at a car is just a waste of time and expense. Always start with the most basic thing on the car that is also a common denominator to everything on the car. The battery and grounds.

This is an LL Bean with the EZ30D H6. Same concept applies to every single car built in the world.

 
On another thought, where did the coils come from?
When I first started getting codes one of the first things I tried was swapping around the locations of coils and injectors to see if the codes would follow. Despite any amount of fiddling the codes have always stayed the same - P0303 & P0304.

At one point I swapped all the coils with brand new Spectra Premium coils. Again, no change was noted. I have the Subaru OEM coils in now.
 
I put this up every once in a while on this forum, so it's in a lot of places. I'm going to add it on this thread because all this throwing parts at a car is just a waste of time and expense. Always start with the most basic thing on the car that is also a common denominator to everything on the car. The battery and grounds.

This is an LL Bean with the EZ30D H6. Same concept applies to every single car built in the world.

Cardoc, thanks for the llink. However, the problem still occurs. Is there a way to affect the fuel/air mixture settings in the ECM? I wondering if I have to tweak the settings. At this point don't know what else to try or investigate.
 
Cardoc, thanks for the llink. However, the problem still occurs. Is there a way to affect the fuel/air mixture settings in the ECM? I wondering if I have to tweak the settings. At this point don't know what else to try or investigate.
There is a way, but doing that will change the fueling for all 4 cylinders and all you do is make another issue.

Check your knock sensor. You can google it. Subaru knock sensors are identical in operation across the years for the H4.

There's datalogging that may help narrow it down. Rom Raider is free and works on Windows laptops. You would need a Vag-COM KKL cable as an interface between a laptop and the diagnostic connector.

www.romraider.com
 
Ok, thanks Cardoc. I have a similar OBD cable for my laptop that I can use w/OBDWiz diag app. What params should I consider logging to narrow this issue down?
AF Correction (STFT)
AF Learning (LTFT)
Battery Voltage
RPM
TPS
Knock Correction
MAF
ECT (Coolant Temp)

Start there and record about 2 minutes cruising at different throttle applications.
 
Just a thought...have a look at the PCV valve especially the hose on the PCV valve for cracks, and a tight fit. When throttle is closed car is pulling full vacuum and a vacuum leak will cause cylinders to go lean and misfire.
 
I put this up every once in a while on this forum, so it's in a lot of places. I'm going to add it on this thread because all this throwing parts at a car is just a waste of time and expense. Always start with the most basic thing on the car that is also a common denominator to everything on the car. The battery and grounds.
At the end of the video you mention that above 45% throttle it was misfiring again and you were going to do some fueling stuff. What was the final outcome?
 
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