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I think many owners would consider using a higher quality full synthetic CVT fluid and gear oil if it works correctly in these transaxles.
If a name brand fluid stated compatibility specifically with one and only one Subaru CVT fluid, then it presumably matches the physical and chemical characteristics of that specific OEM fluid and it should work correctly.

Amsoil/Redline/Motul/Valvoline says they have a fluid compatible with High Torque CVT-LV fluid and no other CVT fluid? Fantastic.

There are fundamental mechanical differences between a push-belt CVT and a pull-chain CVT. Push-belt CVT pulleys have a set clamping force, but a pull-chain CVT varies pulley clamping force dynamically based on expected torque. Chain slip is catastrophic so it's critical that in a pull-chain CVT the frictional characteristics of the fluid are EXACT so that the variable clamping force of the pulleys neither creates excessive friction and wear, nor insufficient friction and chain slip.

A push-belt is composed of hundreds of tiny metal plates held together by steel bands. It's called a push belt because under compressive pressure the tiny metal plates stack and interlock to form a stiff rod that pushes. The belt is not under tension. It uses compressive strength instead of tensile strength.
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In contrast, a pull-chain CVT only operates under tension. Pull-chain CVT's include Audi Multitronic (discontinued) Subaru Lineartronic, and more recently Hyundai/Kia IVT.

So you have hundreds of literal chain links being pulled instead of pushed, and it's all about tensile strength not compressive strength. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Pull-chain CVT fluid must ensure that chain link pin wear is kept to a minimum yet the edges of the chain must have enough friction with the pulley surface not to slip. Again the frictional characteristics are critical. I don't have documentation but I'm sure that the metallurgical properties of a push belt and a pull chain are different and this may come in to play for fluid chemistry. The bottom line is that a universal fluid is the wrong fluid for a pull-chain CVT. The vast majority of CVT transmissions in the world are push-belt, and if anything, a universal push-belt and pull-chain CVT fluid is probably optimized for the most common application - the push-belt not the pull chain.

You also can't swap the CVT fluids for one pull-chain CVT with another pull-chain CVT fluid. Again they are different for a reason. The passages might be a different diameter, the manner in which the pulley clamping force is measured might be different. The Transmission Control Unit is almost certainly programmed differently as well.

So the fluid in a CVT is much more than "just a hydraulic fluid/lubricant" it's a highly specific engineered fluid that is integral to the mechanical operation of the CVT.
 
@cardoc , have you seen any specific CVT fluid mixes cause problems in the tr690 or tr580? There are more than 1 report of owners using an aftermarket approved CVT fluid without any issue, and unless installed when the unit was built would be considered mixing. I haven't looked in a while but I recall several good reports from owners using Valvoline fluid in their tr-580's,
If dealer finds other fluid in tranny you can forget about extended 100K warranty. Beside original good for 100K. If it aint broke don't fix it.
 
If a name brand fluid stated compatibility specifically with one and only one Subaru CVT fluid, then it presumably matches the physical and chemical characteristics of that specific OEM fluid and it should work correctly.

Amsoil/Redline/Motul/Valvoline says they have a fluid compatible with High Torque CVT-LV fluid and no other CVT fluid? Fantastic.

There are fundamental mechanical differences between a push-belt CVT and a pull-chain CVT. Push-belt CVT pulleys have a set clamping force, but a pull-chain CVT varies pulley clamping force dynamically based on expected torque. Chain slip is catastrophic so it's critical that in a pull-chain CVT the frictional characteristics of the fluid are EXACT so that the variable clamping force of the pulleys neither creates excessive friction and wear, nor insufficient friction and chain slip.

A push-belt is composed of hundreds of tiny metal plates held together by steel bands. It's called a push belt because under compressive pressure the tiny metal plates stack and interlock to form a stiff rod that pushes. The belt is not under tension. It uses compressive strength instead of tensile strength.
View attachment 505347

In contrast, a pull-chain CVT only operates under tension. Pull-chain CVT's include Audi Multitronic (discontinued) Subaru Lineartronic, and more recently Hyundai/Kia IVT.

So you have hundreds of literal chain links being pulled instead of pushed, and it's all about tensile strength not compressive strength. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Pull-chain CVT fluid must ensure that chain link pin wear is kept to a minimum yet the edges of the chain must have enough friction with the pulley surface not to slip. Again the frictional characteristics are critical. I don't have documentation but I'm sure that the metallurgical properties of a push belt and a pull chain are different and this may come in to play for fluid chemistry. The bottom line is that a universal fluid is the wrong fluid for a pull-chain CVT. The vast majority of CVT transmissions in the world are push-belt, and if anything, a universal push-belt and pull-chain CVT fluid is probably optimized for the most common application - the push-belt not the pull chain.

You also can't swap the CVT fluids for one pull-chain CVT with another pull-chain CVT fluid. Again they are different for a reason. The passages might be a different diameter, the manner in which the pulley clamping force is measured might be different. The Transmission Control Unit is almost certainly programmed differently as well.

So the fluid in a CVT is much more than "just a hydraulic fluid/lubricant" it's a highly specific engineered fluid that is integral to the mechanical operation of the CVT.
Thanks for educating us on the different versions of CVT tranny's. Seems clean fluid is more critical with CVTs than ATs.🇺🇸
 
Thank you for sharing the msds sheet. Any idea what is the viscosity at 40C of the SOA748V0200 ?
BR
Joe.
I've never seen a datasheet for the original HT-CVT fluid (V0200), but all the UOAs I've seen show a 100C viscosity of around 6.5 cSt. There's even an analysis of virgin fluid posted here:

Motul does offer a high-torque fluid which they claim is compatible with the Subaru fluid and their datasheet shows a slightly higher viscosity but should give you some idea (the 40C value for V0200 will depend on the viscosity index, so if it's lower than Motul, then that value would go up):
 
Wonder why eneos doesn’t make the high torque version available? The MSDS indicates the JX Nippon Oil company makes it for Subaru... same for the LV version too.
I've never seen a datasheet for the original HT-CVT fluid (V0200), but all the UOAs I've seen show a 100C viscosity of around 6.5 cSt. There's even an analysis of virgin fluid posted here:

Motul does offer a high-torque fluid which they claim is compatible with the Subaru fluid and their datasheet shows a slightly higher viscosity but should give you some idea (the 40C value for V0200 will depend on the viscosity index, so if it's lower than Motul, then that value would go up):
Dear Walker,
Thank you for sharing the above link of the virgin fluid analysis. When comparing it with the Motul, the only published and significative difference looks to be the viscosity at 40C: The OEM Subi HT is at 47.7, while the Motul HT at 34 and Motul Multi at 34. The high visco Subi OEM at 40C is 40% more than the Motul. From experience, at low temp, using other non OEM oil and stressing the CVT, will lead to slippage. One must drive very conservatively around 30 minutes before pushing it, and that during the hot summer times.
The above CVTF viscosities at 100C are almost identical. Not sure if slippage will occur. I should share and mention that I had my subi dealership drain my CVTF at 46Kmiles, a month ago, and unfortunately they put 9 quarts of Motul Multi as they did not have the original stuff. The dealer tech did not flush all the CVTF from the torque converter and warmer. So means the new Motul Multi Stuff got mixed with some of the old original stuff. The only thing that I am happy about is that I had the subi tech replace the strainer and was happy to do that cause it was pretty messy. I can share the pic by email. Now the new strainer will catch any particles to protect the VB at least. But not happy of this reduction of performance, and can't do much, cause not possible to get the original stuff in Riyadh KSA yet.
 
@joe.shamoun which transmission do you have, TR580 or TR690 and what year is your car?

Curious which non OEM fluid you used that led to slippage?

You can share pics right here in the forum, no need for e-mail. [Control-P]

Image
 
Don't mix.
Proper fluid is cheaper than metal.
 
owns 2005 Subaru Outback 3.0 LL Bean
Wonder why eneos doesn’t make the high torque version available? The MSDS indicates the JX Nippon Oil company makes it for Subaru... same for the LV version too.
@joe.shamoun which transmission do you have, TR580 or TR690 and what year is your car?

Curious which non OEM fluid you used that led to slippage?

You can share pics right here in the forum, no need for e-mail. [Control-P]
@SilverOnyx
I am driving a 2015 WRX CVT-TR690. I ve asked the Subi dealership to replace my CVTF while they were replacing the very hard to get Front Diff Gear Oil Seal. When I got the car after a 4 days and drove tested it, observed the slippage. I ve requested them about the CVTF used. The said they did not have the original stuff, and used the Motul Multi. I am not happy about the dealership choice not to important the genuine High Torque Stuff. I am pretty sure the mix recipe of the Genuine Subi High Torque will maximize performance, especially at lower and normal temps.
After drving 30 min with any of these oils, slippage events will reduce much, cause viscosity of the different CVTF oils becomes almost identical. Let me know if you agree. I am sharing the attached.
 

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There's so much that goes into a fluid that looking at cSt is an important but just one aspect of its characteristics. I looked at your PDF and the aftermarket fluids aren't thinner when hot than the genuine Subaru fluid, and aren't thicker when cold, so based on that, their physical properties seem ok, but on the other hand, since Subaru's CVT varies hydraulic pressure on the pulley sheaves, any viscosity different than expected could have an effect. I'm sure the transmission has built in temperature compensation and if the viscosity curve isn't the same then it's possible that the clamping pressures are off one way or another. But different fluids may react to clamping pressure differently as well so to me it's an open question whether or not these aftermarket fluids are truly compatible. But you experienced slippage, and that's the bottom line.

Noticed that Motul Multi and High Torque have almost identical physical specifications yet they are two different formulas (presumably aside from dye) because the flash point is different. Curious what Motul would say.

Image
 
I get a lot of Subarus through here. Quite a few had a fluid change of some sort and a red fluid was in the transmission; universal. The way I knew to check was the temperature and pressure fluctuations. I always change the fluid out as much as possible prior to replacing a valve body to see what change is affected. Some times a fluid change works. Other times, it comes to a VB replacement. 3 TR580 CVTs had to be changed out due to chain/pulley damage. Whether the fluid mix did it, or whether damage was done and a fluid replacement was done to see if there would be improvement is up in the air. I don't always know the background on the cars. My experience with CVTs is when there's a problem it comes down to the fluid, VB or torque converter due to running bad fluid and continued driving with a bad valve body. Those 3 TR580 CVTs are the only 3 CVTs I've ever changed out and they all had red fluid in them. That "universal" crap is no more trustworthy for a CVT than the "universal" HP fluid is for the 4EAT or 5EAT transmissions. It just doesn't perform well. And I still believe that the issues with CVTs can be narrowed down to fluid break down. It is impossible for any fluid to last forever and perform like it should.

I don't risk it. The properties of the fluid are different. The temperature and pressure differences are apparent in data. The transition through the "gear" ratios and torque converter apply are different from one new universal fluid to the proper new fluid. The cost variance between getting the fluid Subaru says to use in the car and getting the fluid that's cheaper is like using low octane fuel in a boosted boxer. You take your chances. Is it worth risking a $5000+ engine over $0.40/gallon at the pump? Is it worth the extra maintenance cost just in keeping the engine running clean? With the CVT replacement cost still high in the thousands, what's a couple bucks a quart for certainty? And I have not seen any data from these companies that show they tested their universal fluid in any Subaru CVT. I think they assume too much and their testing on Nissan, the one with the highest number of CVT fails, has them thinking that its good for all of them.

Subaru put a lot of time in designing these units so their units would last. They are the only company that has made constant changes to the design and operation of the CVT over short periods of time to keep the system economical and functioning. Something comes up after production, they go to work on it. When CVTs were being changed out at the dealer and the old units shipped back for autopsy, they found the mechanical parts to be in spec and the problem was the valve body. So they fixed it. The chain drive on these CVTs is loads better than Nissan, Ford and Dodge. Toyota's CVT is fairly reliable. Chain failures on Subaru CVTs is rare. And if you want to keep it that way, you use what Subaru says to use.

Don't get me wrong. I don't make any money from Subaru by telling readers that they should use specific parts and fluids. I use Royal Purple in engines because I know it's a valuable asset to reduce wear and the engines don't use any oil on it. I tell people to save some cash by getting a battery cable from the local part store rather than pay Subaru $150 for a set. I use aftermarket parts where its suitable and OEM where its needed. The CVT and other transmissions is where it is needed.
This all is especially important because LuK designed the chain to be self lubricating (and make its unique special sounds, especially in the case of the TR690), by the fluid being squeezed through the link plate gaps. Shaeffler (LuK's parent) has a ton of neat training on these matters, including some information on how clamping pressure is determined. Some of that training is public, if you dig through Google.
 
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There's so much that goes into a fluid that looking at cSt is an important but just one aspect of its characteristics. I looked at your PDF and the aftermarket fluids aren't thinner when hot than the genuine Subaru fluid, and aren't thicker when cold, so based on that, their physical properties seem ok, but on the other hand, since Subaru's CVT varies hydraulic pressure on the pulley sheaves, any viscosity different than expected could have an effect. I'm sure the transmission has built in temperature compensation and if the viscosity curve isn't the same then it's possible that the clamping pressures are off one way or another. But different fluids may react to clamping pressure differently as well so to me it's an open question whether or not these aftermarket fluids are truly compatible. But you experienced slippage, and that's the bottom line.

Noticed that Motul Multi and High Torque have almost identical physical specifications yet they are two different formulas (presumably aside from dye) because the flash point is different. Curious what Motul would say.

View attachment 544193
Thank you for your time with your kind reply. Very important to mention, that the slippage was observed when drove tested it at CVTF temp around the 50C when pushed it @ around 80% load not fully. Observed as well that when temp is >75C, No slippage observed when pushed it load @ around 80%. I did not test @ full load with higher temps, as won't be taking any chances on that. As we can see in the comparison table, with the available published data, the High viscosity of the Subi HT at low temp is really unique versus the other CVTFs and looks like its purposes to help with the performance and to enjoy the car without incurring any damage to the Pulleys and inherently to the VB. At the look of the old replaced strainer, and CVTF oil drain at 46Kmiles, CVTF and STRAINER must be replaced depending on users driving style to protect the VB and have some of that new fresh boron healing medicine to the moving parts. The one thing that am not so sure about, and specifically for the TR690, if it is just ok to drain the possible 9 liters out of the total 12.5 liters CVT fluid or to consider flushing the whole system, and if the latter procedure is safe. A month ago when the Subi dealership tech drained my CVTF and replaced the strainer, he was only able to replace 9 Liters out of total of 12.5 Liters. As we know, some of the old CVT fluid were still in the torque converter and the warmer. Let me know what you think about the following plan: 1-Somehow try to source out the unavailable Subi CVTF High Torque stuff to the oil city of Riyadh - the High Torque 20 liters drum. 2- Drive the vehicle for 30 minutes. 3- Let it rest for 1 hour. 4- Unplug the CVTF drain and collect and measure the drained CVTF. 5- Refill with exact amount with new Subi HT. 6- Detach the Warmer CVTF return line to CVT Box and connect line to a 2 liters container; 7- Run the vehicle on idle and see if on Park or on D, to flush a 1.5 to 2 liters through warmer return Line; 8-Shutdown engine; 9- Refill new CVTF with same flushed amount; and so on... Am suspecting that a flushing volume not exceeding the 20% total CVTF capacity will not hurt, especially that vehicle and CVT pulleys on idle mode ?!
 
Thank you for your time with your kind reply. Very important to mention, that the slippage was observed when drove tested it at CVTF temp around the 50C when pushed it @ around 80% load not fully. Observed as well that when temp is >75C, No slippage observed when pushed it load @ around 80%. I did not test @ full load with higher temps, as won't be taking any chances on that. As we can see in the comparison table, with the available published data, the High viscosity of the Subi HT at low temp is really unique versus the other CVTFs and looks like its purposes to help with the performance and to enjoy the car without incurring any damage to the Pulleys and inherently to the VB. At the look of the old replaced strainer, and CVTF oil drain at 46Kmiles, CVTF and STRAINER must be replaced depending on users driving style to protect the VB and have some of that new fresh boron healing medicine to the moving parts. The one thing that am not so sure about, and specifically for the TR690, if it is just ok to drain the possible 9 liters out of the total 12.5 liters CVT fluid or to consider flushing the whole system, and if the latter procedure is safe. A month ago when the Subi dealership tech drained my CVTF and replaced the strainer, he was only able to replace 9 Liters out of total of 12.5 Liters. As we know, some of the old CVT fluid were still in the torque converter and the warmer. Let me know what you think about the following plan: 1-Somehow try to source out the unavailable Subi CVTF High Torque stuff to the oil city of Riyadh - the High Torque 20 liters drum. 2- Drive the vehicle for 30 minutes. 3- Let it rest for 1 hour. 4- Unplug the CVTF drain and collect and measure the drained CVTF. 5- Refill with exact amount with new Subi HT. 6- Detach the Warmer CVTF return line to CVT Box and connect line to a 2 liters container; 7- Run the vehicle on idle and see if on Park or on D, to flush a 1.5 to 2 liters through warmer return Line; 8-Shutdown engine; 9- Refill new CVTF with same flushed amount; and so on... Am suspecting that a flushing volume not exceeding the 20% total CVTF capacity will not hurt, especially that vehicle and CVT pulleys on idle mode ?!
Interestingly, during my research to source out the Subi High Torque CVTF, found 2 part numbers,which seems to be identical, Orange color stuff, but where the price of the drums differs by double. One at 220$ and other around 440$. And we are talking about part No. K0421Y0700 and part No.SOA748V0200 as listed online by Auto parts supplier Auto Spare Parts Online Store, Dubai, UAE - SSG.ASIA
am attaching the related. Appreciate your feedback and comments
 

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The SOA part number is from Subaru Of America

The K0 part number is the international part number apparently. I'm sure they're the same thing. In Canada they apparently use the K0 part number also.

I can't comment on fluid change procedure - I have never done it but I have seen videos where they take the line off the cooler like you're describing, but if you can get the Orange Motul High Torque it's probably fine and I wouldn't worry about the cold viscosity being less than the genuine Subaru. I would worry if the hot viscosity were less than the genuine subaru or the cold viscosity were higher.

Interestingly, Motul Multi CVTF says it's compatible with virtually all CVT fluids including (some are the same fluids said a different way)
SUBARU HIGH TORQUE CVTF-LV (the low viscosity new formula)
SUBARU SOA748V0300
SUBARU I-CVTF FG
SUBARU ECVT
SUBARU LINEARTRONIC CHAIN CVT AND CVT II FLUID
SUBARU LINEARTRONIC HIGH TORQUE (HT) CVT FLUID
SUBARU CV30
SUBARU K0421Y0700
SUBARU LINEARTRONIC CHAIN CVT 3 FLUID
SUBARU CVT III FLUID
SUBARU NS-2
SUBARU LINEARTRONIC CVTF
SUBARU K0425Y0710
SUBARU CVT TR580
SUBARU CVT TR690
SUBARU ICVTF
SUBARU HIGH TORQUE CVT
SUBARU LINEARTRONIC II
SUBARU K0425Y0711

This does not make me confident.
 
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Transmission fluid, like motor oil can be assayed at a petroleum lab.
For a nominal service fee you can get a report of what's in it, and what doesn't belong, and why.
If you request a sample kit, they will sent all you need to complete it.
Mixing fluids could cause an additive reaction making the fluid break,
dissolving or participating additives out , water's the usual culprit.
 
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