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Discussion starter · #22 ·
radar detectors are only illegal in Virginia (where I've also lived). they are fine in the other 49 states. sorry international folks, no idea where you're at.

I don't have a radar detector because I like to speed in a outback. Jesus, I had a hard enough time managing 55 mph going up the mountain in my old 2.5 with cvt

it's just another piece of information to have handy. this is not some escalating escalating electronic arms race like our LE friend keeps pointing out (the fact that he's framing it as such should tell you about state of mind). the truth is the vast majority of vehicles on the road don't bother at all and still speed.

why would law enforcement change behavior or spend money on newer equipment if they're doing just fine issuing tickets?

like I've said earlier, in my experience (only), I find plenty of LE that camp out around corners or at the bottom of hills with their radar just blasting. also plenty of LE that drive around with it on full time. I know instant on is a thing, but sheer laziness, why not just leave it on and get readings of every car? At least that's what I'm coming up with. my radar detector is less about speeding and more about an early warning system for LE in general.

For what it's worth I haven't gotten a ticket since implementing in my vehicles.
 
Thanks for the info - I've been planning to get a mount but was curious how it would affect the EyeSight before commiting. Very helpful.

Had my V1 for 8 years now and only had a ticket when a cop was following and had to charge me for imprudent speeding (no radar was on). It's paid for itself more than I can even begin to estimate. I don't go nuts with speeding (unless in Chicago where everyone does) but, as stated, it is a good source of info to have, like warning me of a cop who is on a shoulder pulling someone over so I can merge or of an accident ahead.

I worked on designing a police car once and had to learn all the tricks and equipment they used, a few ride-along's and such, and the cops were super chill and essentially told me how to speed and not get caught. They all still primarily use K and KA bands (laser is SOL but I can usually pick it up sometimes if traffic is ahead of me) so it's easy to catch, especially since all the police near me use those frequencies rather than laser.
 
why would law enforcement change behavior or spend money on newer equipment if they're doing just fine issuing tickets?
This!
So they may not tag the detector folk, they still collect from the majority percentile – and spend funding elsewhere useful.
 
Hi everyone,

I spent way too long trying to figure out which wires to tap into so I thought I'd share with the group.

I have a 2016 3.6r with Eyesight and auto-dimming mirror. The Molex behind the mirror has two rows, maybe 5 or 6 wires across on the bottom row and one wire on the top row.

The first and third wires on the bottom row are the ones you want to use

1. The first wire on the bottom, closest to the driver, is +12v. It is switched so it goes on and off with the dash
2. Although the mirror tap instructions were helpful, it should instruct to also validate continuity on ground while in reverse because although the second wire appears to be grounded, it is not when you put the car into reverse. Using the the third wire as ground works perfectly
3. It is very difficult to probe the wires for testing without damaging your tap wire. What worked for me was to stick a wire into the front-side of the molex instead of jamming the mirror tap wire into the back and risk breaking the post of the wire tap wire. I had some extra wires that were part of an Arduino kit that worked perfectly.

Hope this helps!
Chris
 
... The first and third wires on the bottom row are the ones you want to use. ...
Thanks, Chris. Would you happen to know what color those wires are? I'm hoping to find them somewhere inside the Eyesight cover.

•
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Hi everyone,

I spent way too long trying to figure out which wires to tap into so I thought I'd share with the group.

I have a 2016 3.6r with Eyesight and auto-dimming mirror. The Molex behind the mirror has two rows, maybe 5 or 6 wires across on the bottom row and one wire on the top row.

The first and third wires on the bottom row are the ones you want to use

1. The first wire on the bottom, closest to the driver, is +12v. It is switched so it goes on and off with the dash
2. Although the mirror tap instructions were helpful, it should instruct to also validate continuity on ground while in reverse because although the second wire appears to be grounded, it is not when you put the car into reverse. Using the the third wire as ground works perfectly
3. It is very difficult to probe the wires for testing without damaging your tap wire. What worked for me was to stick a wire into the front-side of the molex instead of jamming the mirror tap wire into the back and risk breaking the post of the wire tap wire. I had some extra wires that were part of an Arduino kit that worked perfectly.

Hope this helps!
Chris
what wire colors?
 
It looks like the +12V is a really faded red (almost orange) and the ground wire is yellow. First and third positions.

I would double check before wiring it... the mirror bracket is in the way and I'm hesitant to pull out the molex since the tap wires are sort of loose.

I tried to take a picture but there is not a lot of room to work with

Hope this helps!

Chris
 

Attachments

It looks like the +12V is a really faded red (almost orange) and the ground wire is yellow. First and third positions.
Thanks very much for your efforts. I'll report back on whether it helps in a few days, when I have a chance to pull the ES cover again.

•
 
The first and third wires on the bottom row are the ones you want to use ...
According to the 2015 Legacy/Outback FSM, for the auto-dimming mirror (10-pin connector) those are pin 6 (+12 volt ignition, Brown) and pin 8 (ground, Black) respectively.

N.B. The non-dimming mirror uses a different (5-pin) connector with a different pinout.
 
A perfect example is I-85 in Atlanta, if you aren't doing at minimum 10 over, you are a Road hazard, and waiting to cause an accident.
If you drive in a way that makes it unsafe for people to drive <10mph over the speed limit then IMO you are the hazard, not them.

Meanwhile I like the idea of powering into the mirror...wonder if I can mount a clock up there.
 
If you drive in a way that makes it unsafe for people to drive <10mph over the speed limit then IMO you are the hazard, not them.

Meanwhile I like the idea of powering into the mirror...wonder if I can mount a clock up there.
It has nothing to do with me. Also, given your comment, you clearly have never driven through Atlanta. It has nothing to do with *me* and everything to do with the flow of traffic in the left hand lane, where some idiots like to camp out at 10 or even 20 below the speed limit, is routinely in the high 80's or 90's. Meaning, if you aren't at least 10 over, then you are likely to get run over. I don't get why people get so offended by someone calling them out for driving like idiots in the left hand lane. If you aren't passing, GET OVER. Come to Charlotte and you will regularly see people driving 55-60 or even at best 65, 3 lanes wide. God forbid someone tops a hill and you are there.

Note: I set my cruise at 9-10 over and ride. But if you can't see how people are being a road hazard when not maintaining the flow of traffic, then please turn your license in at the nearest DMV. Next time please slow down and read what I wrote.
 
I read what you wrote and stand by my post.
Ok, then if you ever visit Atlanta, and get hit by the crazies that own the roads there, don't complain about it. You ASSumed it was referring to me, but the *flow of traffic*, or the 85th percentile as posted above, is >10 mph. Meaning, as stated above, the laws are insufficient.

Sorry Tai.
 
FWIW, the tap wires I used at the back of the rear view mirror are a little loose. Sometimes when I would adjust the rear view mirror the radar detector would turn off.

A glob of GE Silicone II caulk did the trick. I understand that GE Silicone II is a neutral caulk so it shouldn't corrode the small piece of exposed tap wire.

Hope this helps
Chris
 
Making the connection

Sorry to be 2 years behind - I'm trying to do exactly what you accomplished here. How exactly did you make the connection into the existing Homelink wires? There's not much room there to work. The magic seems to be taking place behind the mirror stem in your photo. Did you cut open the soft tubing that covers the set of wires? Did you drop the EyeSight cover and work further upstream?
 
In several cars over the past few decades, I've done this with a Valentine 1, and it's worked quite well. (I've also used the snake-the-wire method, and that's a super pain.)


I haven't done this with my new OB, though, because I've found that, even with (rather expensive) V1 updates (where I send it to them and they do new firmware at least, and maybe new hardware), the proliferation of on-car radar systems means that the thing is going off almost continuously. In the vehicle I traded for my OB, I used the V1 with its audible alarm off, and it stayed lit up almost all the time. (The one place it didn't, out in the middle of nowhere with no other cars around, it saved my license some points.)


So I'm trying to decide if it's worth the trouble to install the V1, given the nearly continuous false alarms. I realize that many people think these devices are unethical, or something, but that's not the question I'm asking. What I'm asking is whether their marginal value is worth the trouble, given the increase in interference. HPH
 
I didn't find a direct answer when I was looking earlier so here's some info on mounting your radar detector to your rear view mirror stem and then powering it off of the homelink wire harness.

I had this same setup in my 2011 Outback 2.5 Premium, but the wire harness is slightly different in the 2016 3.6R Limited.

My harness is a 5x2 and you want to tap into the black (ground) and brown (ignition) wires.

I've used both the blendmount and mirror mount mounts before. The blendmount is slick but functionally not worth twice the cost of the mirror mount.

Link to the mirror mount I use for my beltronics radar detector.

Here's the tap I used for my radar detector to avoid snaking a cable all the way up from the center console.

And some photos of it installed.

Image


Image
Hey! Thanks for the description. Harness (5x2) happened to be exact same for 2020 OB, XT - home link, compass, auto-dimming, etc.
I verified with a multi-meter as so many YT videos and other people suggest. Shocked to NOT find diagrams on the hardwire, mirror -tap, pin diagram for the 2020. Maybe searching for it all wrong. Anyway...
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