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My DPF light goes straight to flashing

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1.8K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  Gyro10  
#1 ·
Hi everyone,
I recently bought my first Subaru and my first diesel. It’s a lovely, smooth car to drive and it’s a BEAST, but it turns out it’s also a bit of a princess.
It’s a 2016 Subaru Outback turbo diesel. I bought it second hand and it had only done 40,000 km over 7 years so I thought it was a bargain. After 3 weeks, the DPF light came on. It didn’t go solid, it went straight to flashing. I took it to the subaru mechanic and they said it just needed an oil change. This was when I learned that diesel engines don’t like suburban driving. They like long drives on the highway.
Luckily, I do most of my driving on the highway, which is why I bought the diesel.
Two months and about 5000km later, it happened again. The DPF light went straight to flashing. The oil level was high and apparently the car has been trying to regen but aborting. The mechanic says it’s my fault because I’m not driving it properly. I’m braking too much, not getting the engine hot enough, and not doing long enough trips.

But that doesn’t seem right.
According to my car log book, 78% of my km’s are work trips. This means 30mins of driving at 100k/hour with steady throttle and not breaking unless someone stops suddenly in front of me twice per day.
The stats the mechanic gave me are:
Oil dilution too high - 15%
DPF condition good
Ash 23%
Soot 21%
Regen attempt 503
Completed 171 (averaging out to every 90kms)

The mechanic says that every time the car tries to regen, it puts diesel into the oil to make it hot enough to burn off the diesel particulates and that’s why the oil gets diluted. She says the way to fix it is I have to ‘teach’ the car to regen only every 200km and then make sure that regen attempt doesn’t abort. I have to get the engine hot, by letting it run in the driveway for up to 10 minutes, then drive for 30 minutes at 2000 revs without braking. I can’t do a forced regen at the mechanic because it might cause a fire, and the car will automatically attempt a regen whenever it thinks it needs to (without telling me, apaprently) so I have to drive like this ALL THE TIME because there is no way to know when the car needs to do a regen. (I don’t get the solid light).

Also, when it’s in automatic, my Subaru only does about 1500 revs, even at 100km/h with constant throttle, so I have to put it in manual to get the revs up. And I can’t use cruise control or brake and I have to do this pretty much all the time and if I don’t, I will need to get my oil changed and the computer reset every 2 months for the life of the car.

Surely, this isn’t normal!

Why is the car trying to do a regen every 90K? (About every 1-2 days) when there is barely any soot or ash to burn off?
Why does the light go straight to flashing? Why doesn’t it tell me when I need to do a regen and then let me decide when it’s safe/appropriate to do one? Why do I never get the solid light before the flashing one?

In short, why is my car gaslighting me???

For now I have an automatic car that I have to drive in manual, adaptive cruise control that I can’t use and a car that wants to drive at 1500revs in automatic when it should be (for its own safety) driving at 2000 revs. Oh, and if I use the brakes I’ll need an oil change every 2 months for the rest of the car’s life. And if I don’t do all this, I’ll need to get a new DPF filter bit even then it’ll still keep happening because I’m still driving it wrong.

So, I have some questions.
1. I have to get the engine ‘hot’? How hot? If I drive at 2500 revs, I can get the engine temp to about half way up. Is that hot enough?
2. Could there be something else going on? A problem with the oil? A problem with the DPF sensor?
3. Have I understood the info I’ve been told? Or am I an idiot crazy person who can’t drive?

The car is second hand so I can’t return it, but it’s got a 12 month statutory warranty because I bought it from a dealer. The dealer is about 100km away and they won’t answer my calls or emails. I don’t want to drive there until I have proof that there’s a fault that they have to repair, otherwise they’ll just say that it’s my fault and I’m driving it wrong.

Does anyone have any suggestions ? Or anything I can try?
 
#2 · (Edited)
Have a look here, post 15.

The DPS light is not triggered because you DPF has reached a measured level. It is done on an estimation of the DPF state as well as oil dilution percentage based on how many K's done since your last oil change.

If your mechanic is not resetting the level when he does an oil change it will trigger the DPF light on and it won't go out no matter how you drive it as it is showing the DPF filter at issue as well as the oil dilution.

I was doing the same as you when the light came on and revving the guts out of it for 100 k's to get the DPF clean with no joy.

The mechanic I was using did not have the correct tool to plug into the car and could not do a reset that way, and normally forgot to do the manual process.

If you are in Canberra talk to TechWorkz at Fyschwick as they are brilliant with Diesel Subarus.
 
#3 ·
Thanks so much. The mechanic said it was reset with this most recent oil change and it’s the Subaru dealer workshop so they should definitely have the right tool. I’ll drive it for a few months and keep an eye on the oil level as I go and then see how long it takes for the sensor to act up again. I should probably get some more data points. A lot of people here recommend getting Torque. Is that the best one? Any preferences/suggestions?

I live in Brisbane so Canberra might be a bit far to drive for now. Don’t want to get stuck in limp home mode half way there. :)
 
#4 ·
Diesels with DPF's, dont put diesel in the oil. They inject it right into the dpf to get it hot enough to burn the soot out. Hot, i mean hot hot... The turbo has the crank case vented right into it, so the vapors do wonders for the turbo. NOT.
... Diesels with modern emissions, dont like what they call, being a grocery getter.
... Lots of sensors to go bad, sooner or later. Its the nature of the beast, they mandated. As well as the dpf to plug up.
... Not sure on the suby, but might be able to do a manual regen with or with out a scan tool. Do some research.
... Dont let anyone sell you a DPF filter before you take, or have yours taken off, ( if full ) and power wash it out. They also sell cleaners for cleaning them, but need to be removed then cleaned.
There are places that one can send it to be cleaned, but expensive and might not be set up for cars. Also, sensors can be removed and cleaned, before replacing. As well as the fuel injector.
...
Heck of a design, invent a dpf, to catch soot, then put raw diesel into the system, to heat it up to burn it off, to put said soot out the tail pipe anyway.
...
I know a little about them, working for electric companies with trucks with dpf's and scr's. As well just sold a 2015 diesel pickup i bought from new. Had it 8 years, one U joint went bad, other than that, any problem was with the emissions system only.
...
... If you can, once a month, hook a trailer to the car and drive up hill both ways, to put a load on it, or a roof box for wind resistance, or both.
For the OP, best of luck, feel free to PM me for any general info on the system, as from a car, to a semi, they are all basically the same. First generation was dpf only, next was dpf then scr. SCR injects urea as needed.