I was hoping for something even simpler like maybe a door open wire at the RS unit that just could be disconnected. Everything else tied to the door switch would continue to work as expected just the RS would not get the signal. I did disconnect the door switch and verified something like this could work but the car shutting off when the door opened never bothered me enough to take it to the next level and search for a door open wire at the RS unit. It may be worth a look and see if such a wire exists. It certainly would simplify things.

 

This sounds like an intriguing idea sgtmaj27, it sounds like it will only work with the drivers door? is that the case, or would the delay apply to all the doors?

 

It appears that all remote start functions are controlled by the BIU. There are only two wires from the door switches. One is from the rear and pass doors and one from the drivers door so that is the only way to "fix" the problem short of reprogramming the BIU. If you want all doors to work then you have to include the one wire from the pass+rear doors which goes to D3 on the BIU.

The remote starter allows for the keyless remote to work with the car running. Typically this is disabled with the OEM remote, that is why some people have trouble with the OEM fob not working unless the installer programs or installs for this function to work.

I'm not too concerned about the door thing, but heh, being retired, I needed something to occupy my brain housing group this winter LOL

 

For those interested, here are the wiring diagrams for the remote starter and the keyless entry systems. You can kinda see how the switches work.

 

Possible idea?

For those interested, here are the wiring diagrams for the remote starter and the keyless entry systems. You can kinda see how the switches work.

Take a look at page 3 of the Remote Start diagram. In the upper left hand corner, I think the RS harness is D144/D83 & D145/D84. Instead of using those wires through the RS, could they be jumpered around the RS? Would this eliminate the problem of shutting off the car when the door is opened?

I'm at work now, but I have the OEM RS kit at home and later I can try to verify the above. However, would it affect the RS and/or the factory remote doors in some other way to jumper this?

 

Google DEI 528T Pulse Timer, you can this on the fleaBay for ~$13 shipped.

 

I didn't realize that the 528T was adjustable. That will work for both relays and a lot cheaper....good catch!

 

Oh I am so glad you posted this, I want to make this modification too. Looking forward to reading the diagrams up close! Will reply again once I've looked at it.

 

and all along reading this thread i thought someone would give a simple solution like the one to stop the seatbelt from chiming: just turn on car, insert belt 20 times and take it out 20 times.

i can't believe there is no simple solution for RS.

i am getting mine installed tomorrow, guess ill ask them before they install about door issue. seems so silly to me.

 

I haven’t looked into it in detail, but thought you could integrate a timer with the door locks among the several discussions craving for the OB missing auto-locks. IIRC the 528T adjusts out only to ~90secs, that might not be enough for some.<O</O
A project in the waiting for me. The timer is really but a simple device throwing/disconnecting/delaying a pos/neg pulse/trigger. Thus, you can utilize it to activate functions after a user input… door lock, Ign-On/Off, dome/hatch light, shifter, e-brake, etc.<O</O
<O</O
KISS. I wouldn’t start dissecting/jumper into the RS components itself, you don’t want to 2nd guess the firmware and its integration with the BIU fuzzy logic. Worse, you degrade reliability in this approach. Follow your OP sketch, keep the timer outside/between car/RS. I believe it’s given the RS responds with the door sw, I’d use that as a (simple) starting point.<O</O

 

Well, forget my earlier post. I can't make heads or tails out of the OEM Remote Start diagram. According to the second page (WI-201), the only page that mentions the "Remote Engine Start CM", there are only 4 wires that enter the module (B180). However, there are three connectors that actually attach to the module. One connector has large gage wire (about 12ga) with 8 wires (8 pin). The second connector has smaller wire (about 20ga) with 6 wires, but it's a 12 pin connector. The last connector is for the antenna and is a 5 wire connector. I'll try to attach pictures if anyone thinks that may help. Anyone have any further ideas or suggestions?

 

Well, forget my earlier post. I can't make heads or tails out of the OEM Remote Start diagram. ?

I had trouble figuring this out and I don't have the unit to look at. As I figure it, the 12 wire connector has the six wires from the ignition and the two wires from, what the instructions call, the window interlock. These control the starter, ignition, etc. The antenna is the 5 wire connector, and the 4 wire connector has two grounds and two wires for communicating with the BIU. That's it for connections. Unlike an aftermarket unit, no other connections are needed. All of the other connections for horn, lights, shutdown, are through the BIU which is "told" by the 4 wire connector to remote start. This is why I believe that without reprogramming, we have to interrupt the door switch wire temporarily to prevent shut off.

 

Keep in mind that by delaying the door switch wire between the switch and the BIU, you're also eliminating the interior lights coming on when you open the door, if that's the case you might as well just unplug the switch.

 

That was a problem I was trying to prevent. The best solution I could see was to disable it only while the car was running, and only for a short time to insert the key. Since I don't use the RS all of the time. Disconnecting the wire is a quick solution but that also disables the door open dash indicators for that door.

Now that unique has identified the number of actual wires going to the RS, it is obvious that the schematic is not complete. (which I suspected since it did not show the antenna connections) If I do get the RS, I will leave it as is and "suffer" through the restarts. No more "chasing" wire for me with this project!

 

Verified one connector

Ok, I finally verified the B180 connector on page WI-201 of the OEM Remote Start diagram. This particular connector 'splices' into the car harness and the other end of B180 goes to the Remote Start module. The diagram does NOT show all of the Remote Start wiring. FWIW

 

Ok, I finally verified the B180 connector on page WI-201 of the OEM Remote Start diagram. This particular connector 'splices' into the car harness and the other end of B180 goes to the Remote Start module. The diagram does NOT show all of the Remote Start wiring. FWIW

Agreed...like the five wire humongous antenna!

 

I just had the OEM remote installed at a local dealer and had a chance to speak with the tech and the service writer about the door problem and possible solutions. They explained the wiring using the harnesses as a visual aid. There are three plugs that connect to the RS. There is one 8 pin plug that has six wires from the ignition switch and 2 fused wires for 12v supply. There is the five wire antenna connector...two wires for CAN communication, ground, 12v, and a communications wire to RS. There is also a 12 pin connector which has 6 small wires. These are: 2 for CAN communications, 1 hood pin connector, 2 for lock interlock to allow for the key fob to work while running with RS and ground. That is it!

There are No connections directly to the doors. The logic of the system is done with the BIU. After installation, they showed me how disconnecting the door switch would affect the vehicle. After opening the door and inserting the key, the car remains running, however, the vehicle is now operating with an immobilizer chip that, although valid, was not used to start the vehicle so the Red Security dash light remains lit until the car is shut off and the key is removed. The car was restarted with that key and there was no light. They were not sure what affect that this had, if any, such as whether or not a fault code was registered in the system.

The official answer was that only a reprogram of the BIU could circumvent the open door shutting down the vehicle during RS. Disconnecting the door switches will work, however, the security light remains on during that cycle. (possibly only an irritant)

Fortunately, it is no big deal for me and since I was fortunate to get what I thought was a very good deal for the OEM installation, I am pleased to have the factory system in the car...

I'm sure that this will not put this to rest, but my curiosity has at least been satisfied........for now

 

I just had the OEM remote installed at a local dealer and had a chance to speak with the tech and the service writer about the door problem and possible solutions. They explained the wiring using the harnesses as a visual aid. There are three plugs that connect to the RS. There is one 8 pin plug that has six wires from the ignition switch and 2 fused wires for 12v supply. There is the five wire antenna connector...two wires for CAN communication, ground, 12v, and a communications wire to RS. There is also a 12 pin connector which has 6 small wires. These are: 2 for CAN communications, 1 hood pin connector, 2 for lock interlock to allow for the key fob to work while running with RS and ground. That is it!

There are No connections directly to the doors. The logic of the system is done with the BIU. After installation, they showed me how disconnecting the door switch would affect the vehicle. After opening the door and inserting the key, the car remains running, however, the vehicle is now operating with an immobilizer chip that, although valid, was not used to start the vehicle so the Red Security dash light remains lit until the car is shut off and the key is removed. The car was restarted with that key and there was no light. They were not sure what affect that this had, if any, such as whether or not a fault code was registered in the system.

The official answer was that only a reprogram of the BIU could circumvent the open door shutting down the vehicle during RS. Disconnecting the door switches will work, however, the security light remains on during that cycle. (possibly only an irritant)

Fortunately, it is no big deal for me and since I was fortunate to get what I thought was a very good deal for the OEM installation, I am pleased to have the factory system in the car...

I'm sure that this will not put this to rest, but my curiosity has at least been satisfied........for now

Wow thats good info. Thanks for posting! Too bad we can't really override, but at least now we know.

 

can someone please explain which plug i am supposed to remove if i want to be able to use RS and open door without car shutting down? i just feel like its going to be bad for the starter in the long run with the constant having to restart each time i open the door.

 

It's been a while since I tried this but I do remember it's a black plastic switch you can see with the driver's door open. There is a big phillips screw I had to remove to get at the plug on the back of the switch.

 

ok thanks, but then i guess interior lights would no longer work

 

Yes, that's one of the drawbacks. You could add a small switch so you could select which mode you want.

 

Adding my $0.02 - I spent about 90 minutes under the dash with my meter trying to decipher the RS system in my 2013 OB Premium. A few things I've noted:

On the jumper harness (smaller gauged wires), the black and the yellow/black wires are a normal contact closure to the hood pin. You can easily see the two colors at the hood pin, and they close a ground circuit when the hood is opened.

The other four wires on the jumper harness clearly communicate with the rest of the electronics in the car. The red, blue and two browns do not, AFAIK, wire to closure circuits. This coincides with what others have said about integrating into the BIU of the car. This is disappointing but not surprising, as the combinations of wiring needed for the interior lights, dash indicators and hatch indicator are quite complex.

I'll contact my dealer this week and see if they're willing (and/or able) to make a BIU programming change to eliminate the "shut off upon door opening" function.

It appears that the one lingering annoyance may be that the security light on the dash will remain on if the car is driven away after being remote-started, until the next time it's shut off and started with the key. Will keep you all posted!

 

This worked for me.

I believe the fix cost $2.00 and took about 2 minutes to implement.

*OEM Remote Start SOLUTION* for car shutting off when door opened - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums

 

Me, too! I've had this for about a year - lets me stash my gear in the back seat without the car shutting off. Doesn't, however, let me open the hatch in the back without the car shutting off. A good compromise since it is low risk, costs almost nothing, is completely removable, and in the course of doing so you don't risk screwing up something in your car. A big thank you to the author of this post!