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OEM Trailer Hitch Installation with Pictures

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118K views 203 replies 75 participants last post by  vtmecheng  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi All,

So I decided to install the Subaru OEM trailer hitch the other week and since I haven't seen a thread that details everything I decided to take a bunch of photos and provide some commentary on a couple things.

First off, the Subaru installation instructions are pretty decent. However, I felt the electrical part lacked a little clarity. As of this writing the latest revision of the instructions are rev. 4 dated 4/17/2020. The latest instruction can be found on Subaru's Technical Information System in the Online Reference section. Type in the trailer hitch kit part number L101SAN000 in the "Keywords/Tool #" section. Here is a direct link to the rev. 4 (4/17/2020) instructions.

UPDATED: rev. 6 dated 8/23/2022 is the latest instructions available and can be found here.


Also, there appears to be two different part numbers for the Wilderness model: L101SAN610 & L101SAN620. Not sure what the difference between the two are.

I have posted all the photos from the installation in the url below.



Below are some comments from the install.

When you print the PDF installation cut out template ensure you have print scaling turned off. Below is a picture of all the pieces put together.

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Here are the pieces that come with the OEM trailer hitch.

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In the instructions it talks about removing the side foam pieces next to the tool tray. The little plastic clips that hold the foam in place are a pain to remove and like to fly all over the place. I lost one and for the life of me was not able to find it. It did not break and I didn't hear it hit the head liner so it may have popped out and gone somewhere in the garage. I really don't know if you need to remove these as you can get to most everything.

Here is a picture of the clips and where the side foam pieces are located

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Removing the tail lights is pretty straight forward and the instructions are good. You just need to remove the covers, remove the bolts holding the lights in and then pull straight backwards.

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When removing the bumper, in addition to the clips mentioned in the instructions, if you have the mud flaps you need to remove them and the clips associated with them. Keep track of the clips and where they go as some are slightly different in size/shape.

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Again, the instructions are pretty good in describing how to remove the bumper. It is helpful to have a second hand helping as you remove the bumper so it doesn't wiggle around and scratch the paint of the side panel. Also, there is an electrical connector on the driver's side that needs to be disconnected to free the bumper.

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Removing the bumper beam is pretty straight forward and just three bolts/nuts on each side.

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The next step is removal of the mufflers. Initially, I was curious if I could get away without removing the mufflers and unfortunately you do need to remove the mufflers to get access to one or two of the holes where the trailer hitch bracket bolts to.

There are metal tabs that stick out where the bumper cover clips to. Be careful of these as you go under the car; I hit my head on one of them.

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The mufflers were surprisingly a pain to remove from the exhaust hangers. You need to use some penetrating oil (PB Blaster or similar) in between the rubber mounts and metal hangers to remove the mufflers. This took a little bit of time to get the penetrating oil in there and the mufflers off. It helps to have a cardboard box or something under the muffler to support the muffler so it doesn't swing down and hit you as you remove it from the first mount.

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#2 ·
The next step is the heat shields and they are pretty straight forward and easy to remove.

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Once you get the heat shields off you will see the rubber plugs that need to be removed to access the bolt holes for the bumper beam brackets.

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Next you need to install the brackets and bolts with washers. Install the bolts & washers but don't tighten everything down.

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Once you have the brackets loosely installed you can install the bumper beam and loosely install the bolts and washers to secure it to the brackets. I had one bolt hole that was slightly misaligned so I needed to loosen the bolts holding the brackets to the chassis a little more to get all the bolts aligned and hand tightened.

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Make sure to follow the torquing sequence in the instructions when doing the final tightening of all the bolts.

Once you get the bumper beam installed you can move onto the electrical part. The first was reinstalling the keyless remote antenna on the bumper beam.

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For the trailer hitch wiring I really felt the instructions/diagrams could be better. I felt the diagrams did a so-so job showing where the mounts went. I think I got everything installed where it should be. Below you can see where I placed the two zip tie anchors, where the chassis connector is located, and how I stuck everything together.

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Outside the car, the electrical is pretty straight forward and you install the zip ties where the instructions say to.

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I have seen it mentioned in other threads and I did notice it here that the clearance between the back of the hitch and spare tire sheet metal isn't that much.

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One interesting note I saw in the instructions were that it said to reinstall the original bumper beam bolts. I'm not sure if that's necessary, but I did it anyway.

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#3 ·
Now the fun part comes with the bumper cover. You need to remove the lower bumper cover to install the template.

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The template for the most part fits pretty well and aligning it isn't too difficult. I used a paint pen and traced around the template. I added tape to the areas I marked before removing tape from the areas needed to be marked.

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With everything marked I used a combination of tools to cut out the template. For the initial straight cut I used a heavy duty pair of scissors and that worked surprisingly well. For the curves I ended up using a coping saw which allowed me to cut things relatively well, but it left a lot of burring that needed to be cleaned up. I'm happy with the cut out part that you actually see from behind, however there's a part or two in the section underneath that I think could look better. I may try and use some of the extra trim or find a small trim piece to put around the edges.

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For the inner bumper there is a line already there to follow to cut out.

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If I had it to do over again I would try something like this deburring tool to try and cut or at the very least make the cuts look a little nicer.

Lastly, you need to install the trim piece around the lower bumper cover. There is a sticky material inside so it sticks pretty well.

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Installation of everything is pretty much doing everything in reverse order. The installation instructions I don't think tell you all the details and miss a couple things so just take your time and make sure you have everything together. The order I'd suggest is heat shields, mufflers, bumper cover, mud flaps, tail lights, spare tire, and other goodies inside the hatch area.

Again, I'd suggest using a box or something to support the mufflers during installation. Ensure to lube up the muffler mounts and hangers so everything slides on easily. The new exhaust gaskets are slightly oval in shape and kind of snap into place so play with their fitment a little bit before you bolt everything up. Get someone to help you with installation of the bumper cover and aligning all the tabs. I found even after I thought I had everything in place there were a few clips that didn't quite snap into place along the side and I just needed to press a little harder. You can see in one of the pictures below that the wiring harness that was added clears the spare tire without any issues.

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Overall, I think the installation of the OEM trailer hitch is pretty straight forward and should be able to be tackled by someone who has some wrenching experience. Although I'd suggest avoiding the summer months if you live in Texas :) I'm not sure what is the best method for cutting the bumper beam so maybe others that have done the install can share their experiences.

Check out the image gallery I posted above as there are some more pictures in there.

If you have any questions/comments please let me know.

Josh
 
#4 ·
Now the fun part comes with the bumper cover. You need to remove the lower bumper cover to install the template.

Image

Image

Image


The template for the most part fits pretty well and aligning it isn't too difficult. I used a paint pen and traced around the template. I added tape to the areas I marked before removing tape from the areas needed to be marked.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


With everything marked I used a combination of tools to cut out the template. For the initial straight cut I used a heavy duty pair of scissors and that worked surprisingly well. For the curves I ended up using a coping saw which allowed me to cut things relatively well, but it left a lot of burring that needed to be cleaned up. I'm happy with the cut out part that you actually see from behind, however there's a part or two in the section underneath that I think could look better. I may try and use some of the extra trim or find a small trim piece to put around the edges.

Image

Image

Image


For the inner bumper there is a line already there to follow to cut out.

Image


If I had it to do over again I would try something like this deburring tool to try and cut or at the very least make the cuts look a little nicer.

Lastly, you need to install the trim piece around the lower bumper cover. There is a sticky material inside so it sticks pretty well.

Image

Image

Image


Installation of everything is pretty much doing everything in reverse order. The installation instructions I don't think tell you all the details and miss a couple things so just take your time and make sure you have everything together. The order I'd suggest is heat shields, mufflers, bumper cover, mud flaps, tail lights, spare tire, and other goodies inside the hatch area.

Again, I'd suggest using a box or something to support the mufflers during installation. Ensure to lube up the muffler mounts and hangers so everything slides on easily. The new exhaust gaskets are slightly oval in shape and kind of snap into place so play with their fitment a little bit before you bolt everything up. Get someone to help you with installation of the bumper cover and aligning all the tabs. I found even after I thought I had everything in place there were a few clips that didn't quite snap into place along the side and I just needed to press a little harder. You can see in one of the pictures below that the wiring harness that was added clears the spare tire without any issues.

Image

Image

Image


Overall, I think the installation of the OEM trailer hitch is pretty straight forward and should be able to be tackled by someone who has some wrenching experience. Although I'd suggest avoiding the summer months if you live in Texas :) I'm not sure what is the best method for cutting the bumper beam so maybe others that have done the install can share their experiences.

Check out the image gallery I posted above as there are some more pictures in there.

If you have any questions/comments please let me know.

Josh
🍻 WOW, Well done! GREAT write-up!! I'm sure this will help many to come!
 
#11 ·
I still give folks allot of credit with these installs. I have a Mechanical Engineering degree AND a 50 year background in fiddling with cars. When I was looking at hitch's, the idea of pealing off the entire back end of the car and then the exhaust stopped me cold with the factory design. Heck, I didn't even trust the dealer doing it out of fear that something wouldn't go back together right.
 
#14 ·
Honestly.....that's why I did the install myself is because I didn't trust the dealer to do the work. I pretty much do all the work on my cars (I've pretty much replaced everything on my project Legacy other than the shell) that way I know it's done right because the few times I've let someone do something or bought cars used....you find some things that were done previously that make you go what happened here.
 
#12 ·
I recently bought a Outback Limited 2020. I negotiated the installation of the OEM hitch as part of the deal, basically at 50% off of the $650 for the parts and labor. The part was in-stock and the installation was completed within a day. I was worried after seeing other botched installs, but fortunately, my dealer was able to install it properly. It looks good and nicely hidden, but definitely need to get on our hands and news to put the pin in the hitch and attach the safety chains. The "downside" of such a stealth install.
 
#23 ·
man, this is really quite amazing. While Ive installed many accessories myself, there was no way I was going to attempt this job, but with this write up, I might have considered it, but the cut would have been a challenge for me, as it was for the dealers. Why they didnt manufacture a pre-cut version of that bumper piece is beyond me.
Very impressed with this install write up!!
 
#26 ·
man, this is really quite amazing. While Ive installed many accessories myself, there was no way I was going to attempt this job, but with this write up, I might have considered it, but the cut would have been a challenge for me, as it was for the dealers. Why they didnt manufacture a pre-cut version of that bumper piece is beyond me.
Very impressed with this install write up!!
Thanks, I really appreciate it....and yes I don't know why Subaru didn't make a pre-cut version of the bumper....even if you have to buy it separately.
 
#31 ·
Fortunately Florida isn't one of those states. From the photo of the Hitch, it looks like the Receiver portion is suspended by only 2 bolts which I believe would bend the receiver inward given a hard enough enough impact. However is major structural damage did occur, I have a $500 deductable from the Gekko with Loaner.
 
#32 ·
Hey didn’t wanna start a new thread...
I got my OEM hitch installed by my Subaru dealer as per recommendation by SOA and other mechanics...I could get the job done myself with the awesome instructions from the original poster here but I paid for the liability as I’m going to be towing a trailer full time. Cost me $400 plus tax for the labor, pretty steep but I’m willing to pay it for security. My question to you all is this...would you be happy with this job? It’s not terrible I could totally live with it, but the cut in the bumper underguard seems a little sloppy and the cut is peeking out of the gasket. What do you guys think? Am I being dramatic?
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#33 ·
Hey didn’t wanna start a new thread...
I got my OEM hitch installed by my Subaru dealer as per recommendation by SOA and other mechanics...I could get the job done myself with the awesome instructions from the original poster here but I paid for the liability as I’m going to be towing a trailer full time. Cost me $400 plus tax for the labor, pretty steep but I’m willing to pay it for security. My question to you all is this...would you be happy with this job? It’s not terrible I could totally live with it, but the cut in the bumper underguard seems a little sloppy and the cut is peeking out of the gasket. What do you guys think? Am I being dramatic?
View attachment 494151 View attachment 494152
That's a poor cutting job. Especially the iver cut on to the bumper. I would ask for replacing that trim piece. I believe it can be replaced fairly inexpensively.

I believe this is the trim piece (57734A in the diagram):

57734AN10A

494156
 
#39 · (Edited)
So I now I gotta convert this bad boy to a 7-pin connection. I’m assuming I’ll have to remove that trim piece were talking about and uninstall the new 4 pin thats under the car, then connect that to the 7-pin and remount that where the 4-pin was. Is this correct? If thats the case I’ll use that oppurtunity to fully wrap that piece.

edit: and this may seem like a dumb question, but how the hell am I going to get the cotter pin thru the receiver now? What am I missing here?
 
#41 ·
I know my 2021 came in on the 25th with out the hitch on it. This must be why my dealer said it will be ready tomorrow . But now i wonder on rust growing from rubbing on the atachment holes. I have a truck with 88k rust is a big problem under it. A 2014 outback i work also has rust issues starting on suspention mounting points. The fun life of dirt roads that are salted in summer for dust. Then all the whinter road treatments. Just atack metal non stop where i live.
 
#44 ·
Yeah they messed up. Go back for sure!

Side note to anyone interested in ordering the OEM hitch and installing yourself: I searched online and called a half dozen dealerships within an hour of me, the absolute cheapest I could find the kit was on bamwholesaleparts.com, use code "10OFF" at checkout and with ground shipping I just paid $305 total.

The site also has other OEM parts and accessories that are much less expensive than the dealership.
 
#45 ·
I installed a Curt hitch with 2" receiver in my driveway. I chose the Curt rather than the OEM hitch as the Curt allows you to a) keep the outback bumper in place and b) not have to remove and reinstall the bumper skin as part of the installation process. It was a reasonably easy install taking about 2 hours.
I like the idea that if I'm ever rear ended, I now have both the factory bumper as well as the Curt hitch sitting behind the bumper skin.
There is an excellent video on how to install the Curt hitch at the etrailer.com website.
By the way, kudos to Subaru as well for having the trailer wiring harness connector available for us to just plug into ! Easiest trailer wiring setup I've dealt with.
 
#50 ·
I had my dealer try 3 times and they did such a bad job I asked them to give me a new bumper piece which I then cut myself. Also they cut me a $200 check for my trouble as I had negotiated a hitch install as part of my purchase, and Subaru Corporate gave me $250 in parts and labor credit. Took me about 90 mins to do a perfect cut job using the template from Subaru's instructions - I found the best way to do it was repeated scores with an exacto knife.