That guy makes some valid points. As for your intended goal of reducing consumption, however, I think some products are worth a try. Most of the products I'm aware of that are designed to free up piston rings are only for temporary use immediately prior to an oil change, you're not running an additive for thousands of miles, such as Seafoam (300 miles) or BG109 (20 minutes at elevated RPM). That said, I've tried both and they haven't had much effect on consumption in my 3.6R (which is significant). I think Seafoam was more effective than BG109 for consumption but, again, nothing major. Of course, my issue might not be stuck rings, so who knows. I've also done 2 changes with Valvoline R&P and, so far, no effect (they say it can take up to 4 changes). But I haven't heard anything bad about R&P in terms of general use as motor oil so, AFAIK, it's perfectly safe to use. FWIW, I have seen at least a few folks report increased consumption with R&P after the first change, we have a thread on it around here somewhere.

 

There are many forum users trying the Valvoline Restore & Protect, many refer to it as R&P.

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/mpg-up-valvoline-restore-protect-motor-oil.567526/

Bitog has several threads about it.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/valvoline-r-p-oil-burner-test-results.393476/

Another recent article about oil additives:

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/what-the-changing-chemistry-of-engine-oil-means-for-you/

Across the internet, there's a lot of interest in the R&P oil, and while results do vary, it's promising enough that many are trying it with good results.

If I had an oil burner I would try it in 5w-30.

 

My 2016 Outback premium burns oil usually on longer trips.

how many miles on it? has anyone swapped a new OEM pcv valve on ?
those are springs with a ball, weaken in time/ in miles...and gum up making for consumption.

a 2016 should be later than the bad FB engine years.?

 

PCV changes are mandatory on boxers.

I do mine every 25-30k with only OEM parts.

It’s not overkill: the one I just pulled from the 2024 at 25k was barely functioning.

 

Valvoline R&P is the real deal. I'd use 5w30.
it does actually clean. Piston rings etc.. that normal cleaners dont.

If it helps your oil consumption depends on why the engine consuming oil.

It wont hurt anything.

 

Ok to use the Valvoline R&P 5W30 in a 3.6R engine?

 

I'd go the Valvoline R&P route if I had to do it all over again. All modern oil has detergents, but Val R&P seems to help with sludge better than most. I've used BG EPR and MOA on an older car that started to burn oil. It worked, but I think the stuff was like $30. Since Val R&P is barely any more than full syn oil($29/5 qt jug). I'd go that route and just make sure to change the oil filter sooner than 3k.

 

On an older more varnished engine, change the filter at 500, then again at 1000 more, and again at 3k total with the oil.

Then change both every 3k miles.

Most of us drive in “severe duty” conditions. It’s not overkill.

 

Considering what the oil does for the car…I’d say additives are not a good idea. When I first started driving my dad was all hyped up about Slick 50… it was PTFE oil additive that was found to clog up very small holes in the oil system..

 

My 2016 Outback premium burns oil usually on longer trips.
Has anyone had success with oil additives like sea foam or Moly engine flush or BGR EP109?
I’ve seen YouTube videos like the one below speaking against oil additives.

ALSO What about Valvoline restore & protect, does it work?
Your thoughts or experience is much appreciated!

How much oil are you burning, and how many miles on the car? The OB I recently sold (2013 2.5) burned a little oil, but only on road trips. The car had over 175k miles and it would burn about one pint every 750 miles during trips. City driving never burned a drop.

 

In addition to the Valvoline, the one I've most recently used in the HPL Engine Cleaner. It's not a solvent but rather it's a gentle and long term cleaner for around 1 year or 4k.

I used in my 3.6 that was clean but showed some light varnish at 130k miles, at the next change I could see nothing but clear bare metal through the fill hole but the proof was in my wife's Civic.

She has a very clean top end but had a main seal leak that I suspected was from carbon. I ran the HPL for a year (only 2.5k miles) and somewhere along the way, the leak stopped and it hasn't returned. It's not a thickener or has seal sweller but instead a high PAO cleaner. I'd use it again in a heatbeat if I had the occassion.

 

You just got the best information of modern day snake oil from the leading expert. Don’t waste your money or risk your engine on after market off the shelf oil additives. Restore and protect is great and I use it.

 

I switched to R&P at 160k from 5w40 Rotella T6. Been changing it at 7,500 mile intervals. Seems to be doing a great job, as was the T6. No worries about my personal info.

 

....ALSO What about Valvoline restore & protect, does it work?
Your thoughts or experience is much appreciated!

Don' know if you saw his video that he posted immediately after the one you show above. Results are intriguing...

His other one, several months later, is interesting...at the very end...with the varnish removed from the dipstick. Can it correctly be assumed it's also happening at the rings, lands, pistons, etc.?
It was enough for me to begin using R&P a couple oil changes ago. I don't have any oil burning, so it'll be harder for me to tell how much, or if, it's helping. I haven't seen any negative effects.

 

Most of the products you posted are not additives as much as cleaners. Those should be used on a very short term basis right before an oil change and they suppedsly clean out the engine. I haven't used them much and have my doubts how well they work. If it were me I would try the restore and protect before an engine cleaner to try and solve the issue. Also the advice of a new OEM PCV valve is also a great idea. One more place to check is valve covers to make sure those aren't leaking before assuming to motor is burning the oil.

 

And if you're replacing the PCV valve, I'd also have a look at the PCV hose - if it's starting to flatten you should replace it.

 

Or if the PCV hose starts to get hard and brittle.

 

The hose (think I've replaced it twice) on my 3.6 has never gotten brittle, it always starts to collapse way before that, YMMV.

 

There have been many reports of old PCV hoses being so brittle that they are cracked or cracked on removal of the PCV itself, but yes it's probably cars more than 10 years old. I'm surprised to hear about the PCV hose collapsing since it's not a common complaint - am I just unaware or is yours a rare case? Anyone else find the hose collapsed? Could it be just kinking from a bend or is it really a collapsing OEM pre formed hose from vacuum?

 

There have been many reports of old PCV hoses being so brittle that they are cracked or cracked on removal of the PCV itself, but yes it's probably cars more than 10 years old....

My experience with my Gen2, was the hose was too brittle to reuse on the second PCV valve. So, somewhere around 65-70,000 miles. It was less than 10 years between.

I don't know how much that may vary based on number/frequency of heat cycles, climate, or possibly local pollution levels.

[edited for spelling error]

 

When I noticed my original PCV hose collapsing, I did check it after removal and found that I could still blow air through it, so maybe if it was simultaneously hardening it would never have totally collapsed. I replaced with new from Subaru and, strangely, that one did the same thing, but in far fewer miles. Maybe it was just my hyper awareness that caught it early but this isn't exactly unusual for us 3.6R owners:

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/is-the-2015-3-6-pcv-hose-supposed-to-look-squished.547149/

 

....Has anyone had success with oil additives...?
I’ve seen YouTube videos....oil additives.

....Your thoughts or experience is much appreciated!

Here's a brand new one for you to peruse to help you make up your mind.

(I have no personal experience, or knowledge from conversation with others, about whether or not these products work.)

 

I was having the same oil consumption issues and using 5W 30 helped the most (2.5i). In addition (as others indicated), I have done the following:
1. Seafoam treatment
2. a new PCV valve (and a new hose)
3. an oil catch can - I do get "some" (but not significant) residual oil
4. Techron (if I have some around) before my oil change

YMMV

 

I’ve had good luck with the Restore and protect on my 2012 Outback 2.5 M/T with 153k on the odometer. It was using about a quart in 5k miles. Ran the R&P for about 3k then changed it and filter. Refilled with same and it’s got 4k more on it and hasn’t used any noticeable oil. That oil worked wonders on an old EZGO golf cart I have that was using so much oil it would foul plugs. Used 5w-30 in both.

 

I put Sea Foam in my old Suburban. The carbon that came off ruined my fuel pump. $1000 lesson.

 

Better than my buddy’s results: bent valves. Most effective carbon cleaning ever: new engine.

 

Personal opinion is oil additives are bad news. At best, they’re a waste of money. At worst they’ll damage your engine.

For oil burning, once it starts you’re usually doomed to suffer it for the life of the engine… which could be over 100k miles as long as you take care of your levels.

You can try some flushes, but the damage is already done from stuck rings scoring the cylinder walls. Go with LiquiMoly or BG, but if your valve guides are sealed correctly you’re probably wasting money.

As for R&P, I like it and in my engines it’s at least doing the P part as I didn’t have enough miles or deferred maintenance to require the R part.

Been using since 18k on my 2023, since 500mi on my 2024.

53k on the 2023. 27k on the 2024. Neither burn a drop of oil between 3-3.5k mile OCIs.

I don’t suspect they would if using Kirkland at their age and maintenance history, but I don’t mind the additional fee for the Valvoline rather than Warren product.

They’re both high quality adequate certified synthetic(ish) oils.

Do not use oil additives. If it’s an oil control ring, you’re in it. If it’s a valve guide, it won’t do anything. If it’s a plugged oil drain hole in a piston, no amount of consumer flushing will do anything quickly.

R&P over 20k miles might improve things, but only if you’re in a very small use case scenario.

Use it because it’s a great oil that will help keep carbon particulate from wearing out your timing system early.

The best time to solve a problem is before it happens.

After that, mitigation is the only solution. Mind your oil levels instead of praying for miracles. Subarus are Buddhist.

 

Seafoam will clean things up. I have used it on small engines and it works wonders but I wouldn't use it in a motor vehicle.