Is there a writeup to replace the spark plugs on 5th generation? All I can find is 4th gen and I dont know if there are any differences. Also, what is model of NGK spark plugs to use? Search has not really helped me as all I can find it for older generations.
nappyjim
Spark plug DIY?
2 reading
Should be about the same process. might just be different things that are in the way...
Go to the parts store and tell them you need plugs, they'll get you the right ones (if they are competent).
A spark plug socket (the kind that actually holds onto the plug) is a life saver on the horizontal plugs. I've used a magnet on the end of a stick in a pinch, among many other things, and the spark plug socket is the best.
Go to the parts store and tell them you need plugs, they'll get you the right ones (if they are competent).
A spark plug socket (the kind that actually holds onto the plug) is a life saver on the horizontal plugs. I've used a magnet on the end of a stick in a pinch, among many other things, and the spark plug socket is the best.
Same 2.5 from 2013 to now, same 3.6 from 2010 to know. Old write ups should be basically identical.
Per the 2015 Legacy/Outback Factory Service Manual and 2015/2016 Owners Manual:
- NGK SILZKAR7B11 (2.5 liter FB25 engine)
- NGK SILFR6C11 (3.6 liter EZ36 engine)
more like $12 and they last 50-60 thousand miles. maybe more
many people have tried other brands - only to have to switch them out for NGK
many people have tried other brands - only to have to switch them out for NGK
A few suggestions.
First, I've found the best price on the spark plugs is from Rock Auto. The NGK is under $10 there, and shipping for my zip code is only $3. Don't let the part number difference confuse you. The NGK SILZKAR7B11 is the NGK 93482. One is a catalog # and the other is a part #. (Not hash tag, but number.)
Next, ss others have said, don't go cheap on the spark plugs. Stay with the factory OEM plug. You will regret using cheaper plugs. And you will really regret it when you have to change them twice.
Last, buy one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013P4C064/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I didn't have one for when I did the spark plugs on my 60k service, but I have one now, and bought it specifically with the Subaru spark plug change in mind. It will pay off big time, particularly for the #4 (left rear, from the driver's seat) cylinder.
First, I've found the best price on the spark plugs is from Rock Auto. The NGK is under $10 there, and shipping for my zip code is only $3. Don't let the part number difference confuse you. The NGK SILZKAR7B11 is the NGK 93482. One is a catalog # and the other is a part #. (Not hash tag, but number.)
Next, ss others have said, don't go cheap on the spark plugs. Stay with the factory OEM plug. You will regret using cheaper plugs. And you will really regret it when you have to change them twice.
Last, buy one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013P4C064/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I didn't have one for when I did the spark plugs on my 60k service, but I have one now, and bought it specifically with the Subaru spark plug change in mind. It will pay off big time, particularly for the #4 (left rear, from the driver's seat) cylinder.
jws360, thanks for the file but now I have a question. It shows what looks like three different length extension bars and a universal joint. Is the universal joint absolutely necessary? and do you know the lengths of the extension bars? I should be attempting this tomorrow but I only have a couple short 3" extensions.
One other forum indicated wobble socket extensions would work best and they sure worked for me in my 2016 Subaru 2.5L Outback. A universal joint does not afford enough control when attempting to attach to the string of items (spark plug socket; additional small extension) that are already in the hole. A 3" wobble extension with the correct 14mm spark plug socket did the job for me.
TLDR: I highly suggest sending your car to the professionals for spark plug replacements on the 2017 year!
Longer version:
I attempted to replace the spark plugs on my 2017 2.5i at 60k miles. This job took me 8 hours over 2 days (I had to order some items on Amazon to complete the job). Note that I did a lot of homework and read all the forum posts on this job so I thought I knew what I was getting myself into. It was much worse than I expected. Here were my struggles and some tips if you do not not heed my above warning.
1) The connectors that attach to the coils are a HUGE pain on the 2017s. Based on other write-ups on this forum, they must have introduced a new connector that is VERY difficult to disconnect in my year. See my post here for a picture of what I'm talking about. It took me no less than 15 minutes of struggling for each connector (4 total). That is an hour of pure frustration.
2) You must remove the entire battery box to access the driver's side spark plugs. Luckily I had a 10mm deep socket to remove the battery so getting the battery out was not a big deal. But, to remove the box below the battery, there are two 14mm bolts that must be removed that are oriented horizontal with no more than 2 inches of clearance. They also happen to be very deep in the hood so the only tool that seems to work for this situation is a long (or extra long) 14mm ratcheting wrench. I did not own one of these so this was an unexpected $25 Amazon purchase. Here is the one I bought.
3) The drive's side spark plug in the back is HORRIBLE to get out. There is no room to work with. Getting the clip out (see #1 above) is even harder than the other 3 because of this. Then, you will struggle to get enough clearance with any socket wrench to remove and replace the spark plug. I highly recommend a 2 inch wobble extension because a 3 inch extension is too big. Here is the one I bought... $13 more that was not expected. Even with this tool, it was really a struggle to replace this spark plug.
Good luck for anyone that tries this DIY! Happy to answer any questions if people still plan on doing it themselves.
Longer version:
I attempted to replace the spark plugs on my 2017 2.5i at 60k miles. This job took me 8 hours over 2 days (I had to order some items on Amazon to complete the job). Note that I did a lot of homework and read all the forum posts on this job so I thought I knew what I was getting myself into. It was much worse than I expected. Here were my struggles and some tips if you do not not heed my above warning.
1) The connectors that attach to the coils are a HUGE pain on the 2017s. Based on other write-ups on this forum, they must have introduced a new connector that is VERY difficult to disconnect in my year. See my post here for a picture of what I'm talking about. It took me no less than 15 minutes of struggling for each connector (4 total). That is an hour of pure frustration.
2) You must remove the entire battery box to access the driver's side spark plugs. Luckily I had a 10mm deep socket to remove the battery so getting the battery out was not a big deal. But, to remove the box below the battery, there are two 14mm bolts that must be removed that are oriented horizontal with no more than 2 inches of clearance. They also happen to be very deep in the hood so the only tool that seems to work for this situation is a long (or extra long) 14mm ratcheting wrench. I did not own one of these so this was an unexpected $25 Amazon purchase. Here is the one I bought.
3) The drive's side spark plug in the back is HORRIBLE to get out. There is no room to work with. Getting the clip out (see #1 above) is even harder than the other 3 because of this. Then, you will struggle to get enough clearance with any socket wrench to remove and replace the spark plug. I highly recommend a 2 inch wobble extension because a 3 inch extension is too big. Here is the one I bought... $13 more that was not expected. Even with this tool, it was really a struggle to replace this spark plug.
Good luck for anyone that tries this DIY! Happy to answer any questions if people still plan on doing it themselves.
Do you suggest drinking beer or stronger before, during and after?
Did you utter any colorful metaphors and lastly, did you use snazzy neverwearium plugs so you won't have to do this again before you die?
Did you utter any colorful metaphors and lastly, did you use snazzy neverwearium plugs so you won't have to do this again before you die?
Sounds like fun! I'm looking forward to the challenge, but I'm a lot of miles away from having to change mine. I have the dainty hands of a 12 year old girl and a hidden extra elbow in both arms. Sounds right up my alley! I'm kinda known for making tight space jobs look easy. Just don't ask me to perform feats of strength... I fail there.
I did mine a while back on my 2017 2.5. While I cant say it was easy I didnt think it was all that bad. Yes I removed the battery box but I already had all the correct tools and extensions. I think I had maybe 2.5 hours in the whole project
Yes there is nothing you can do about the two 14mm bolts on the side for the battery box. However if i remember correctly I had to pull the air filter housing as well as loosen the bolts on the engine mounts and jack the engine up from the ground for clearance. All in all took about 2-2.5 hrs taking my time. Oh yea and having the right tools before you start the job. Also when jacking the engine up place a block of wood on your jack so you dont damage the oil pan.
There must be some variations from car to car. Many contributors to this forum have successfully changed their spark plugs. My early 2016 Premium PZEV was easy to do on the passenger side without removing the spring clips on the coil wiring plugs.
After buying a ratcheting 14mm box wrench (must be straight), the battery box comes out and makes changing the front plug on the driver's side easy as well.
The rear plug is a whole different story! The wiring to the coil on the back plug wasn't long enough in my car to allow the coil to be removed without removing the retaining clip and unplugging it. The coil needs to be moved towards the front of the engine to where there is enough space between the valve cover and the frame rail to remove it. Even then, the frame rail and the refrigerant line for the air conditioner work together to obstruct removal of the spark plug. Then, to my initial horror, I couldn't get the coil connector to go back into the tunnel at the right angle to mate up with the spark plug. When removing it, it will bend and pop off, but going back in it's hard to get it to bend just right. You have to blindly keep trying and maybe you will get lucky. If you don't, you don't have a car to drive.
Loosening the motor mount nuts and jacking up the driver's side even 1/2" starts to look very appealing. But I haven't seen where anyone has tried to do that without removing the undercarriage plastic cover with its many fasteners to expose the oil pan. Can it be done with the cover in place or will it end up crushed and broken?
I knew going in that there would be challenges, but right now I have 3 new spark plugs installed and I'm still trying to decide how to solve the puzzle of #4. Oh, and putting the spring clips back on? Good luck with that! The factory service manual only shows the REMOVAL procedure and tool.
I hope this doesn't sound like a rant. It's a first-world problem. The car runs fine. It wouldn't if it were located in the Bahamas. Those people have real problems to deal with.
After buying a ratcheting 14mm box wrench (must be straight), the battery box comes out and makes changing the front plug on the driver's side easy as well.
The rear plug is a whole different story! The wiring to the coil on the back plug wasn't long enough in my car to allow the coil to be removed without removing the retaining clip and unplugging it. The coil needs to be moved towards the front of the engine to where there is enough space between the valve cover and the frame rail to remove it. Even then, the frame rail and the refrigerant line for the air conditioner work together to obstruct removal of the spark plug. Then, to my initial horror, I couldn't get the coil connector to go back into the tunnel at the right angle to mate up with the spark plug. When removing it, it will bend and pop off, but going back in it's hard to get it to bend just right. You have to blindly keep trying and maybe you will get lucky. If you don't, you don't have a car to drive.
Loosening the motor mount nuts and jacking up the driver's side even 1/2" starts to look very appealing. But I haven't seen where anyone has tried to do that without removing the undercarriage plastic cover with its many fasteners to expose the oil pan. Can it be done with the cover in place or will it end up crushed and broken?
I knew going in that there would be challenges, but right now I have 3 new spark plugs installed and I'm still trying to decide how to solve the puzzle of #4. Oh, and putting the spring clips back on? Good luck with that! The factory service manual only shows the REMOVAL procedure and tool.
I hope this doesn't sound like a rant. It's a first-world problem. The car runs fine. It wouldn't if it were located in the Bahamas. Those people have real problems to deal with.
No you have to remove the splash shield on the bottom to know exactly where you are jacking up the engine. I completely removed the two engine mount bolts and jacked the engine up quite a bit, it made the job much easier. Yea there is nothing I hate more then removing that underbody splash shield they went overboard with the plastic clips. I had to do it a second time to replace the typical cracked exhaust manifold on my 2016 2.5 outback.
I have reviewed YouTube videos and where it did not seem easy, doable with the right tools - but thanks for your feedback. I've always changed the plugs on my car but maybe I'll think twice before trying this. I have 20K miles, so a ways to go - but now not looking forward to the decision to change myself or having the dealer (or 3rd party shop) do this.
I'm at 73,000 miles on my '16 OB. I might just take it to the stealership to have this done and suck up the over charge amount if it's that much of a pain to do.
I changed the plugs on my 2015 2.5L without removing the airbox or battery, working from the top only. Its not the most fun job but moving slowly with a couple 3/8 extensions and the correct plug socket it is possible and doesn't take too long. I was using a socket I ordered online and fine tooth HFT flex head ratchet and short extensions.
I kinda want to change the plugs in mine now to see if I can give any tips but mine is a 3.6 so not sure how helpful it will be to 2.5 owners.
I'll ask a friend with a 2.5 if he wants a free spark plug change. lol
I'll ask a friend with a 2.5 if he wants a free spark plug change. lol
Would this be any easier on ramps, attacking from below after removing the splash guard? After a cursory inspection, it seems so.
my 2003 Toyota had Iridium plugs in and they recommend changing them at 125,000 miles, and that's when I did it, and i couldn't really tell the difference between looking at the old one and the new one.
What is the recommended change interval for the 2.5?
yeah, go ahead and rip me a new one for not having the owners manual memorized
What is the recommended change interval for the 2.5?
yeah, go ahead and rip me a new one for not having the owners manual memorized
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