Subaru Outback Forums banner

Starter relay location for a 1998 Outback Legacy 2.5 5 speed

8.7K views 25 replies 4 participants last post by  Chitownrojo  
#1 ·
Okay got a squirrely problem with my 98 2.5 5 speed if I bump started it it runs with no problem but it won't key start I'm wondering if I might have burnt the relay out or it just failed?
I also we just replaced the alternator I'm thinking I might have burned something out cuz I I got dumb nut I thought it was connected and it wasn't the alternator that is so I'm supposed to two wire connector in and with the motor running but ever since then I can't seem to get this thing to start without rolling it down a hill any thoughts?
 
#2 ·
Do you hear a click when you turn the key to start?

Not sure I understand the entire post but, it is VERY common for older starters to need new solenoid parts. Contacts and maybe plunger. Parts are available for rebuilding if you are handy. Check Youtube for videos.

or, check car-part.com for used starter?
 
#6 · (Edited)
Jumper +12V to the "start" terminal on the starter. (Um, be sure the car is in neutral, yes?) Should crank.
There might be a security interlock relay, and there is an inhibit relay hooked up to a switch on the clutch, or the AT.
The relay(s) are, I think, in the fuse box under the hood.
Here is the Wiring Diagram section from a '99 service manual. It should have everything you need. (Page 120.) '98 was a changeover year, so if this doesn't look right let me know and I'll send the '97 document; I don't have the '98 doc.
edit: You said MT. The inhibit switch is on the pedal cage near the clutch. IIRC Open when the clutch pedal is depressed. Might be a bad switch, might need adjustment, might be the relay, but my money is on the security system.
On the '97, disconnect the battery. Key in ignition, turn it to "run". Reconnect the battery. This will reset the security system. Or not . . . try Google.
 

Attachments

#15 ·
now I got a blinking check engine light with no motor running
Did you connect two green connectors under the dash, driver side, near the transmission tunnel?

They are the test mode connectors, and are normally not connected. When connected and the ignition switch is at On, the CEL will flash, and various other relays etc will operate cyclically.
 
#13 ·
Why'd you do that? There is nothing on the column even remotely related to the starter. The ignition switch is screwed to the back of the key/ column lock assembly, and can easily be removed and worked with a screwdriver, or replaced by undoing a connector.
What. Ever. The CEL is on because you have either missed reconnecting one of the multitude of connectors you had to undo to get the steering column out, or broken something.
I'd suggest you put the original column back, get a voltmeter, or even a simple 12V test light, and work backwards from the starter to find where the "start" signal has gone missing. The starter circuit is not that complicated on your '98 car; you could have had it done in half the time you spent f'n with that column.
 
#17 ·
I don't think so. The connectors are used for various purposes, including checking whether or not certain functions, such as the CEL, rad fans, and emissions-related solenoids are operational. These would not differ between transmission types.

The connectors are not normally connected, but often become so when the two green connectors are found near each other .
 
#23 ·
Attached is the 1998 starter system wiring diagram. Disregard the lines that are for the AT (automatic transmission); yours is MT.

At the starter solenoid there's a small push-on blade connector with one wire. First thing is to check whether or not there is battery voltage at that wire when the ignition switch is at Start. It's the BY wire to connector B14 at the Starter Motor in the diagram. (This test can be done with the wire disconnected from the solenoid.)

If there isn't any voltage at the wire, then work backwards from there through the relays to the Start terminal on the ignition switch.

What did you do with the Security system? The Interrupt relay works with it. If the relay isn't working because the Security system is out, then the necessary connection between the Start terminal on the ignition switch and the single wire terminal on the starter solenoid is lost (even if the Starter interlock relay and Clutch switch are fine. In other words, the Security system can't be pulled out without affecting the starter. Not that without the security system, there has to be a jumper to the Starter interlock relay.
 

Attachments

#24 ·
Attached is the 1998 starter system wiring diagram. Disregard the lines that are for the AT (automatic transmission); yours is MT.

At the starter solenoid there's a small push-on blade connector with one wire. First thing is to check whether or not there is battery voltage at that wire when the ignition switch is at Start. It's the BY wire to connector B14 at the Starter Motor in the diagram. (This test can be done with the wire disconnected from the solenoid.)

If there isn't any voltage at the wire, then work backwards from there through the relays to the Start terminal on the ignition switch.

What did you do with the Security system? The Interrupt relay works with it. If thelay isn't working because the Security system is out, then the necessary connection between the Start terminal on the ignition switch and the single wire terminal on the starter solenoid is lost (even if the Starter interlock relay and Clutch switch are fine. In other words, the Security system can't be pulled out without affecting the starter. Not that without the security system, there has to be a jumper to the Starter interlock relay.
Attached is the 1998 starter system wiring diagram. Disregard the lines that are for the AT (automatic transmission); yours is MT.

At the starter solenoid there's a small push-on blade connector with one wire. First thing is to check whether or not there is battery voltage at that wire when the ignition switch is at Start. It's the BY wire to connector B14 at the Starter Motor in the diagram. (This test can be done with the wire disconnected from the solenoid.)

If there isn't any voltage at the wire, then work backwards from there through the relays to the Start terminal on the ignition switch.

What did you do with the Security system? The Interrupt relay works with it. If the relay isn't working because the Security system is out, then the necessary connection between the Start terminal on the ignition switch and the single wire terminal on the starter solenoid is lost (even if the Starter interlock relay and Clutch switch are fine. In other words, the Security system can't be pulled out without affecting the starter. Not that without the security system, there has to be a jumper to the Starter interlock
Attached is the 1998 starter system wiring diagram. Disregard the lines that are for the AT (automatic transmission); yours is MT.

At the starter solenoid there's a small push-on blade connector with one wire. First thing is to check whether or not there is battery voltage at that wire when the ignition switch is at Start. It's the BY wire to connector B14 at the Starter Motor in the diagram. (This test can be done with the wire disconnected from the solenoid.)

If there isn't any voltage at the wire, then work backwards from there through the relays to the Start terminal on the ignition switch.

What did you do with the Security system? The Interrupt relay works with it. If the relay isn't working because the Security system is out, then the necessary connection between the Start terminal on the ignition switch and the single wire terminal on the starter solenoid is lost (even if the Starter interlock relay and Clutch switch are fine. In other words, the Security system can't be pulled out without affecting the starter. Not that without the security system, there has to be a jumper to the Starter interlock relay.
It also has a cruise control disengagement switch on the Clutch pedal