Subaru Outback Forums banner

Third Brake Light Leak - FIXED

202K views 109 replies 71 participants last post by  Kit  
#1 ·
I found water in my rear cargo area and on the inside of the rear windshield after a recent hard rain. A search around this site found a few other threads (like this one), but no good solutions, so I decided to make one myself.

The total time for this repair was about 30 minutes. Most of that time was spent scraping the gasket off the light. I did this yesterday, and today I sat in the cargo area while my wife attacked the 3rd tail light with the hose. I used a flashlight to look at the back of the light (trim was still removed) and I saw no leaks at all.

The silicone I used will not permanently affix the light to the car. I can still remove the light later if necessary.

The Tools:
  • Flat-head screwdriver
  • 1/4" ratchet with a 2"+ extension
  • 5/16" socket (8mm might also work. I didn't try.)
  • Razor scraper
  • Black silicone adhesive sealant

1.
Remove the upper trim inside the hatch. It is held in place by just four clips. I couldn't get my fat fingers wedged behind it enough, so I used a flat head screwdriver to wedge between the trim and the glass to get things started. (Trim removal is also described in the first post here.) The upper trim is all you need to remove.

Image


2.
Use the socket wrench to remove the two washer nuts holding the 3rd tail light in place. You have to basically look straight up into the hatch holes to see them...

Image


Image


^^^This picture is taken looking in the hole with the black wire running through it that you can see next to the hole with the socket in this picture vvv

Left Side:
Image


Same on the Right:
Image


BE CAREFUL.... Move slowly and deliberately pulling the socket out of the hole once the washer nut is off the bolt. If you drop the nut inside the door, I don't know how you'd get it back.

3.
Once the two nuts are off, the light just comes out and it can now be disconnected from the wire.

Image


You can see the problem here...
Image


FYI -
I took the part to my local dealership hoping they could just replace the gasket, but their only fix was to replace the entire thing for $60. No thanks.

4.
Scrape the gasket off the light with a razor scraper to get it as clean as you can. You can use goo gone to get the remnants if you're really picky, but I didn't. I also wiped away the dirt around the hole in the hatch where the light had been.

I didn't get a picture of this. Just imagine me sitting on my tailgate with a razor scraper for about 15 minutes.

Image



5.
Once the gasket has been scraped off, replace it with a thick bead of the silicone. I had some of this around the house, but you can pick it up at any auto parts store for $6 or so.

Image


Image


Image


6.
Put everything back together: Clip the wire back into the light, put the light back onto the tailgate, and put the nuts back on. Now just replace the trim and you're done.


Let me know if there's anything I missed, or if anybody has any questions.
 

Attachments

#31 ·
Thanks for the guide. I need to replace my brake light assembly this weekend. Mine got major damage from the big hail storm in Denver last May. I will be putting some silicon gasket material on mine as that seems like a prudent way to ensure I don't have any water leakage problems.

Now I need to look for a guide to replace the tail light assembly, as that got damaged too.

I decided to fix the damage on my car that could effect the integrity of electrical systems or where water could cause other damage. Took the insurance money and payed it off, with enough extra money to fix the major stuff. Still looks terrible as the roof and hood look like Swiss cheese. :frown2:
 
#32 ·
Thanks for the guide

Just finished the work.

The never ending showers in Québec this summer should quickly make evidence if I did it the good way or not.

Used a straight ribbon of foam seal, so the corners where quite a challenge, but I assume it should work.
 
#33 ·
I suspect mine has that problem.
You say that you're getting water in the cargo area and inside the rear window.
Anyone have the reverse lights getting water behind the lenses.
 
owns 2005 Subaru Outback 3.0 LL Bean
#37 ·
Permatex Ultra Black would work yes?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...v-silicone-gasket-maker-3.35-oz-82180-82150/7160059-P?searchTerm=permatex+black

I had this "silicone black sealant" in my hands and returned it because it said that it had to be clamped for one hour? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-black-silicone-adhesive-sealant-3-oz-81158/7160113-P?searchTerm=permatex+black

The auto store is walking distance from my house so I can easily exchange if you think the one I bought is no good.

Poke @Haywire Jones
Poke @millermmail
 
#39 ·
Permatex Ultra Black would work yes?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...v-silicone-gasket-maker-3.35-oz-82180-82150/7160059-P?searchTerm=permatex+black

I had this "silicone black sealant" in my hands and returned it because it said that it had to be clamped for one hour? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...-black-silicone-adhesive-sealant-3-oz-81158/7160113-P?searchTerm=permatex+black

The auto store is walking distance from my house so I can easily exchange if you think the one I bought is no good.

Poke @Haywire Jones
Poke @millermmail
I don't think it would matter, the light assembly is held in place by screws/nuts so "clamping" while it dries is not a concern. You just need it to get in place and dry before rain washes the new sealer stuff away.

I'm fond of clear colored stuff because if it gets on the paint its less obvious. Just be careful to not "seal up" the hole where the washer fluid tube comes out (just put it where the old foam was).
 
#38 ·
I ended up returning the ultra black and got some Clear RTV as was suggested. Glad I did - I put a little bit too much on the top and bottom parts and it oozed slightly. Nothing I couldn't take off with a shop towel. Looks good. Letting it mellow for an hour or two before I wash the car.

Thanks for the advice on being slow and deliberate with the nuts. I was using a ratchet and dropped the first nut, used my drill with a 1/4" impact adapter on my 8mm socket and it held the other nut quite well. I was able to close the trunk lid, and look inside with a flashlight, and "knock" the dropped nut into the trunk cargo area. Easy peasy.

Thanks again for the great writeup! Hopefully won't have to do this for another 6 years.
 
#40 ·
Oops, guess I was late replying. Glad you got it fixed!

And yeah, I made the same mistake on mine having it push out onto the paint, which is why I was glad to have clear. Easy to wipe 90% of it but depending on the color of your car it may be more or less noticeable with colored goo.
 
#42 ·
Fixing the light a second time

So I had to do this resealing of the center brake light a second time. The first time, last June, was a success but I was rear ended about a month later and the hatch door had to be replaced. Unfortunately the body shop did not do a good job with the brake light; looks like they grabbed one from another car and didn't bother with a new gasket or sealant. First time through a car wash resulted with water in the cargo area. Simple job for me to fix it; in fact easier the second time around. Goes to show, want a job done right...

If you're interested in seeing the rear and front dash cam recording of the collision go to YouTube and search "Saskatoon crash idiot".

Cheers.
 
#43 ·
2012 outback - THNX

Yup, The gasket on the cyclops was SHOT. Used your directions to find the problem, then solve it, and all was neaty in place when I tested it and NO GO. Seemed some yahoo (me) forgot to connect the wire back onto the cyclops. Soo, after opening the cyclops again, and connecting the wire, I had to redo the neatness of putting it back together. Used clear RTV, caulk, and all is now good.
Thnx.
 
#45 ·
I had a rear tailgate replaced due to a rear end collision, and the tailgate had been leaking for some time. As others have mentioned, the rear 3rd light gasket seems to be a "one time use" or just deteriorates (TX sun probably doesn't help). So when the 3rd light was transferred over, it leaked after the tailgate repair. I tried the RTV method, but it still leaked. I had better luck just using some weather stripping from home depot. Now its dry (and serviceable) and not glued to the car. Just my experience... :wink2:
 
#52 ·
****...

Thanks for the fix!
p.s.-anyone doing this may also want to put a dab of sealant around the two screw posts that hold the 3rd brake light onto the rear hatch. The two nuts on my '10 were rusty, and the OE foam washers around the posts were off-center and paper thin, likely not sealing very well.
Despite a liberal amount of RTV around the light housing AND the two studs, the leak is still as bad as ever. Now I'll have to break this light out in order to replace it with a new light. I've looked into silicone dissolvers (ei: Dynasolve 218-230) and they are either more expensive than the light itself, or are not available on the open market (Amazon, eBay, Google Shopping, etc.).


Does anyone know of a good product that will loosen Permatex brand RTV silicone gasket maker?
 
#47 ·
#51 ·
Yeah - the drawings are not super straight. The main idea is that the center trim panel is held in place by clips. You can use a broad flat-head screwdriver to get under the top edge of the trim and pull it off - and make sure the hooks get disengaged from the side panels. All you need is to pop one with a screwdriver; then you can get your hand under the panel and pull it off by hand. The only caution I would stress is to be careful with the screwdriver at first and dont leave marks in the plastic - so make sure the screwdriver is inserted enough that it doesnt scratch the trim.
 
#55 ·
Some notes about removing the trim - I just popped the center trim piece off by prising with my fingers on either end. Fingertips toward the trim, back of the knuckles against the rear light (window) and pop it right off.

If the nuts drop out of the socket (I used an 8mm socket), just close the tailgate, pull the CHMSL (Center High-Mounted Stop Lamp) off and the nuts will be found in the crease above the rear light (window.)

I used a different adhesive/sealant. I'll report after the deluge is ended and I'm able to check the result. I do know that the silicone tub caulk I first tried failed big time.
 
#57 ·
I just fixed my third brake light. I cut some camper top weather strip available at Auto Zone. It forms corners and sticks real good.
 

Attachments

#59 ·
Glad I found this post, my 2011 Outback started leaking about a month ago, pulled all my panels and couldn't understand why. Removed the brake light and yup, the craptastic foam was pretty bad and so I replaced it with some 10mm wide/3mm thick white weatherstripping from Amazon, so far so good after a whole week of rain.

I also had some clear RTV silicone, didn't want to glue the light to the car because that's not what it's supposed to do, so I was prepared to apply some clear kiwi shoe wax (Johnson's furniture wax would do too), then put it on my brake light and tighten it down. After it dries your brake light should come right off because it won't stick due to the wax. Strip excess off, clean off the wax and you've got a perfectly shaped gasket that should last forever.