So I just replaced my steering rack and front control arms on my 98 (2" lifted + springs) Outback due to not being able to get an alignment. Went to drive it after and it felt like the cv's were binding bad. Replaced the boot on one a hundred miles ago and all looked good inside with no nasty shimmy. Before I tear them out and down for an inspection (I'm shade tree at best) I was wondering if anyone had any information on the Trakmotive Extreme articulation CV's- standard or HD.
Das_Goofinhiemer
I have read 2-3 times that the Trakmotive have poor reliability.
if you are running after market or rebuilt axles, maybe the 2 ends aren't 'clocked'/timed correctly?
you might also ask over at www.ultimatesubaru.org - more older lifted vehicles and some folks there keeping older soobs on the road, even from the 70s and 80s .
if you are running after market or rebuilt axles, maybe the 2 ends aren't 'clocked'/timed correctly?
you might also ask over at www.ultimatesubaru.org - more older lifted vehicles and some folks there keeping older soobs on the road, even from the 70s and 80s .
I haven't gotten the chance to run on my Trakmotives yet. Posting my findings here to add to this as a more official Trakmotive thread.
I started dismantling and cleaning out my new Trakmotive axles that I'm going to be using on my lifted roo. The pictures in this post are of the joints that I will not be utilizing in my build. I only cleaned them out with kerosene so that clear pictures could be taken.
The two pictures below are of the inside of the inboard tripod joint of an SB8048. The case hardening is minimal and the roller tracks are not milled.
![Image]()
![Image]()
The next set of images are of the inside of the outboard Rzeppa joint of a Trakmotive SB9041XTT
Minimal case hardening and the ball tracks are left with a roughly machined surface. It looks as though they neglect to use a ball end mill. you can feel the "zipper" effect of the balls running along the machined ridges in the joints right out of the box.
![Image]()
![Image]()
On an appropriately heat-treated CV joint, the heat stains should trace the majority of the ball tracks. Here you can see that they only treated them enough for the heat to penetrate through the thinnest portion of the cup.
![Image]()
I started dismantling and cleaning out my new Trakmotive axles that I'm going to be using on my lifted roo. The pictures in this post are of the joints that I will not be utilizing in my build. I only cleaned them out with kerosene so that clear pictures could be taken.
The two pictures below are of the inside of the inboard tripod joint of an SB8048. The case hardening is minimal and the roller tracks are not milled.
The next set of images are of the inside of the outboard Rzeppa joint of a Trakmotive SB9041XTT
Minimal case hardening and the ball tracks are left with a roughly machined surface. It looks as though they neglect to use a ball end mill. you can feel the "zipper" effect of the balls running along the machined ridges in the joints right out of the box.
On an appropriately heat-treated CV joint, the heat stains should trace the majority of the ball tracks. Here you can see that they only treated them enough for the heat to penetrate through the thinnest portion of the cup.
There's a thread looking into another brand of CV axles - don't know if they make one for the 1998. So far no brand of aftermarket axles has been trouble-free. Cardone HD is often mentioned but even that isn't always good. Raxles has been recommended by others.
www.subaruoutback.org
www.subaruoutback.org
www.subaruoutback.org
Going Through CV Axles Like Toilet Paper!
Hey all, I've got a 2007 Outback 2.5i 4EAT with ~154k miles on it. It's been great, taken me across the country twice in the past year and down some roads it maybe shouldn't have been down. Aside from the constant on and off of the Check Engine light from a P0420 code, my only other problem is a...
www.subaruoutback.org
Gen 3 - GSP Performance Revolution Axles
Specifically for the Gen 3 Outback, but I think they make them for other generations... Anyway, has anyone used these yet? Backstory: when I bought my car it had mismatched aftermarket axles. Tons of vibration/wobbling upon acceleration and steady highway cruising. I stupidly replaced them with...
www.subaruoutback.org
Raxles.com
I got a set of axles for my 05 2.5i from Raxles.com. They were very fast, friendly, and the quality was spot on! :29::29: Marty, the owner, is the one who responded to my email. He did so within an hour or so. Some of the other places I emailed didn't respond for several days! :mad: They...
www.subaruoutback.org
I've been on RCV and Proformance Motorsport about axles for us.
Trakmotives are cheap enough that I can keep a stock of spares (because I'll need 'em lol) and I really like to have Rzeppa joints at both ends. They do have some impressive articulation. Just the typical quality of a Chinese product.
Trakmotives are cheap enough that I can keep a stock of spares (because I'll need 'em lol) and I really like to have Rzeppa joints at both ends. They do have some impressive articulation. Just the typical quality of a Chinese product.
More on the SB9041XTT rear axle that I bought for 2001 Forester fitment.
The cage isn't too bad altogether. Solid piece, other than the ball sockets looking a tad rough. Keep in mind that this is a brand-new, straight-out-of-the box axle.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Alright, so the stars are iffy. Most CV joints I've pulled apart have wear that indicate that each ball rides on each side of the race. In most cases, the majority of the wear lands in the middle of the race and eventually creates small notches. In my case, I'm going to rolling the joints much more and will likely run the balls over the low spots and this will be hell on them. All eight races look like this.
![Image]()
The bar spline fitment looks good, although it rocks within the star much more than I would allow. To be fair, my OE green tips are just the same. Apparently not even Subaru can make a tight axle. I did set the star on my big vice and made an attempt to hammer out the bar end. No luck, and I found that the end of the bar is not case-hardened. As some place state, the aftermarket axle manufacturers machine their axles to make them non-serviceable. Trakmotive, that I'm aware of, does not machine a ramp into the bar end splines to allow to circlip to pass over the splines for disassembly. Bastards!
![Image]()
All eight balls looked as round as they should be. Hardness seems to be on par. I took after one with the hammer flat on an adjustable wrench. No dings or dents at all, so they're hardened like they should be.
![Image]()
![Image]()
The tripod is as a tripod does. Not much to say about it other than it's just like any other. There was a snap ring holding it and it slips right off the bar. No heat needed.
![Image]()
Lastly, for reference, one of my OE green rear outboards. Bell races are milled completely smooth and the case hardening is more thorough. Mine have the notches from riding in the wee bit of the center than they typically do when used for nothing more that on-road use.
![Image]()
The cage isn't too bad altogether. Solid piece, other than the ball sockets looking a tad rough. Keep in mind that this is a brand-new, straight-out-of-the box axle.
Alright, so the stars are iffy. Most CV joints I've pulled apart have wear that indicate that each ball rides on each side of the race. In most cases, the majority of the wear lands in the middle of the race and eventually creates small notches. In my case, I'm going to rolling the joints much more and will likely run the balls over the low spots and this will be hell on them. All eight races look like this.
The bar spline fitment looks good, although it rocks within the star much more than I would allow. To be fair, my OE green tips are just the same. Apparently not even Subaru can make a tight axle. I did set the star on my big vice and made an attempt to hammer out the bar end. No luck, and I found that the end of the bar is not case-hardened. As some place state, the aftermarket axle manufacturers machine their axles to make them non-serviceable. Trakmotive, that I'm aware of, does not machine a ramp into the bar end splines to allow to circlip to pass over the splines for disassembly. Bastards!
All eight balls looked as round as they should be. Hardness seems to be on par. I took after one with the hammer flat on an adjustable wrench. No dings or dents at all, so they're hardened like they should be.
The tripod is as a tripod does. Not much to say about it other than it's just like any other. There was a snap ring holding it and it slips right off the bar. No heat needed.
Lastly, for reference, one of my OE green rear outboards. Bell races are milled completely smooth and the case hardening is more thorough. Mine have the notches from riding in the wee bit of the center than they typically do when used for nothing more that on-road use.
Given the poor quality of the races are you going to return them as defective or install them anyways?
I should add - I dumped some money into a pair of Insane Shafts as well, and they look like they're nothing more that Interparts HK axles. Insane won't answer their phone, and I'm finding way too many complaints about them.
Been trying to get my OE rears back together. The latest TM pair I got doesn't have the inboard c-clip grove machined correctly. It's a straight cut and needs to have a ramp to release the c-clip in the side gear. I'll see if I can get an update on my DSS axle order tomorrow.
Been trying to get my OE rears back together. The latest TM pair I got doesn't have the inboard c-clip grove machined correctly. It's a straight cut and needs to have a ramp to release the c-clip in the side gear. I'll see if I can get an update on my DSS axle order tomorrow.
Maaaan. DSS axle order got bumped another month.
Gonna keep working with the assortment of TM axles for now.
Gonna keep working with the assortment of TM axles for now.
DSS axles came in. These are still for the Impreza/Forester that use the smaller hub bearings. DSS seemed to misunderstand that I was requesting Outback outboard CV bells that would fit their axle bars. C'est la vie.
Pictured - DSS rear shaft next to a gen 2 green tip rear.
Unfortunately, nicer TM shafts I put in the rear are quite stuck, despite me grinding a hefty chamfer on the splines to release the side gear snap rings. The DSS shafts are just the same. Couple that with the need to machine the DSS outer bell and OE outer bell to be press fit and welded together to make the DSS shafts work with the Outback hubs.
I also feel like the DSS shafts are a bit too much weight to be hanging from an R160.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Pictured - DSS rear shaft next to a gen 2 green tip rear.
Unfortunately, nicer TM shafts I put in the rear are quite stuck, despite me grinding a hefty chamfer on the splines to release the side gear snap rings. The DSS shafts are just the same. Couple that with the need to machine the DSS outer bell and OE outer bell to be press fit and welded together to make the DSS shafts work with the Outback hubs.
I also feel like the DSS shafts are a bit too much weight to be hanging from an R160.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
